“The Hermès Birkin bag is not just a bag, it’s a symbol of having ‘made it’, and the story of all the celebrities and style icons who have carried it in the past,” says Jesper Richardy, founder of Copenhagen emporium Time’s Up Vintage, whose starry clientele includes Jane Birkin herself. Sophie Hersan, co-founder and fashion director of fashion consignment platform Vestiaire Collective, which has seen a 185 per cent increase in interest in Birkin 25 bags this year, agrees. “It’s like the ultimate symbol of social ascension.” She credits the Birkin’s growing high-profile fan club, which includes the Kardashian-Jenners, Victoria Beckham, J Lo and Lady Gaga, with helping to ensure it remains one of the most desired bags in the world. But how did the functional, supple leather tote bag achieve its hyper-luxury status?
The fabled story of the Hermès Birkin goes like this: On a Paris to London flight in 1984, Jane Birkin’s Hermès diary fell out of her bag and its papers scattered. Her neighbour kindly helped scoop up Birkin’s belongings and introduced himself as Jean-Louis Dumas, the chairman of Hermès. Together they plotted out a covetable and capacious bag that would comfortably house the model’s personals. The Hermès Birkin was born.
Impossibly elegant yet sturdy, each Birkin is created by one Hermès craftsperson, who must undergo two years of training in order to attain the level of expertise required to perfect a handbag by Hermès. (Six years of training is required to master the many different models in the Birkin family). Over 12 to 18 hours in the heritage brand’s French workshop, the maker must complete the leather and metal work, before sewing the pieces together using Hermès’s specific saddle-stitching technique, which involves two needles moving concurrently. The inside pocket, zippers and shoulder strap are completed with a sewing machine, and the finish is done by hand using manual bar tacks. The Birkin might have been conceived via a chance encounter, but its execution is one of true, unparalleled craftsmanship – thus making it exclusive.
“It is difficult to get your hands on one directly from Hermès – and it has a price tag [that’s] not for everyone,” Richardy says diplomatically (you’re looking at £7,000 and up). Rewind Vintage Affairs founder and CEO, Claudia Ricco, notes that “skipping the queue also comes with a price, so there is always a premium [to pay].”
Current trends also increase the waiting lists for certain styles. “Right now, everyone wants a small bag, but that is changing…” muses Ricco. “At Rewind, we always advise our clients and collectors to buy ‘off-season’ and not when something is at its peak of demand. You get better value for money by buying smart. Everything eventually comes back in fashion.”
Richardy never buys Birkins that have been produced in the last 20 years or which are completely unused for Time’s Up. “I like Birkins which are beaten up and with plenty of stories to tell – that is much more interesting,” he opines. (See Gaga’s personal collection for examples of customised versions). Over on Vestiaire Collective, Birkin business is booming, with recent and vintage iterations in all different sizes, colours and materials. (VB – the owner of an Hermès bag for every occasion – would have a field day).
“When a seller uploads a Birkin bag for sale on the platform, Vestiaire Collective estimates the item’s value, thanks to an advanced algorithm, which is based on its global sales,” says Hersan of pricing up each unique version of the accessory. “On Vestiaire, pieces which have sold also remain visible, so buyers can consult them for reference, too.” Richardy cites eBay, Drouot and 1stDibs as good touch points for prospective buyers of newer Birkins. But, he says, “Vintage bags are trickier, as it all comes down to scarcity, demand and condition.” He recommends consulting with a third-party in a reputable vintage dealer, for help with authentication and valuation.”
Buying a Birkin should of course be seen as an investment purchase that will last a lifetime, and can be passed down from generation to generation. For celebrities, however, “the mantra is the more the merrier,” says Ricco. “They love to display wardrobes full of entire collections in all sizes and colours, not just one or two.” Rest assured, despite the ubiquity of the Birkin bag on the well-honed arms of the A-list, “it’s definitely a status symbol demanding attention whenever worn,” adds Ricco. They have never gone out of style – and never will – and have historically increased in value over time owing to the heritage at their core. This is why the modern-day heirloom is worth saving for.
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