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THE INNER LIFE OF 

SYRIA, PALESTINE, AND THE HOLY LAND. 

VOL, I.

.... 

1 Co 

.. oJ 

. .' 

+.. 

< • 

: .. 

.. \.' 

.. 

...

(All righl$ ruet"t'ed.)

viii Preface. 

talking with friends. I hope not to err too much the other ,,'ny, 

and, in throwing oft' the usual rules of authorship, to gain by 

amusing and interesting those who read me, what I may lose in 

style. The British reading public, nay, all the world, likes 

personal detail. I trust, therefore, that they .will excuse the 

incessant Ego of one who was only allowed to take a part in the 

events \vhich happened during our residence in Syria; and if this 

book proves to be the humble instrument that launches and 

prospers anyone of my philanthropic projects for the Land of' 

my heart, I shall have lived for some good purpose, and when I 

lie upon my death-bed I shall not be haunted by that nightmare 

thought--" I have never been of any use." 

14, Montague Place, 

Montague SquM6, LOflOOn.. 

April, 1875. 

ISABEL BURTON..

2 The Inner Life oj By·ria. 

others unhappy, poor, or oppressed, and I cared for powor then, 

because it enabled me to relieve them." 

"'Veil, but-you are incomprehensible-do explain! " 

(I am by this time dreamily seeking to say something that 

might be understood.) 

"I can't tell you-if you had lived there you would know. I 

hated it at first; I saw the desert, it grew upon me. There are 

times, when I have sorrows, that I hunger and thirst for it; times 

. when the goings on in the world make me miserable, and I have 

to despise myself that my heart can be touched or my happiness 

affected by what concerns my fellow-creatures, Then a horror of 

the common groove, of the cab-shafts of civilization, of the contamination 

of cities, of the vulgarities of life, takes its hold of me, 

and I yearn for the desert to recover the purity of my mind and 

the dignity of human nature-to be regenerated amongst the 

Arabs. Yon cannot understand me, but I can understand you, 

because I have lived both lives." 

" ""hat do you mean by both lives? " 

" I mean the life that man has made, the life of London and 

Paris-the splendid school which rubs offthe angles, which teaches 

us that we are nothing and nobody, which prevents us, by mixing 

with our equals and superiors, from becoming brutalized-that 

life so passionate, so intense, so struggling, and in which we ought 

all to pass one year out of four. The other life is what God 

made, the life in which nature and you have to understand each 

other and agree, and where there is no third person to interfere; 

where there is enough danger to prevent too much' kayf' (dolce 

far niente), and where you are wrapt in the solemn, silent mystery, 

the romantic halo, of pure Oriental life. You have no idea how, 

the moment you recross the Lebanon towards the sea, the fumes 

of vulgarity begin to offend you, and increase until they culminate 

in now Liberal not liberal Europe. Tourists wend on beaten 

tracks, stay but a few months, and know nothing of this. 

That is what makes their books on the East 80 very fade. They 

skim the surface. Dragomans know what pleases their victims, 

and they have a jargon of their own. The victims rarely speak 

the language of the country, they have European minds, and 

they go home about as wise 88 they came out. The truth only

Fron1t London to Alexandria. 3 

begins to dawn after the first six months, and becomesa conviction 

ill u year.; then you gradually improve yourself for Oriental life, 

and unfit yourself for that of Europe. When I go to a picture 

gallery and I find the desert, and the camels marching at sunset, 

like Lord Houghton's' Palm leaves' at Frystone, for instance, or 

a good bivouac by moonlight, I sit opposite it, and gaze and gaze 

until my eyes are rested and my mind is at peace. I shall return 

to the East, Inshallah l to end my days there. Fortunately my 

husband has had the same mind from his youth. You cannot 

understand me, but I have met one or two people-Mr. Disraeli is 

one-who have felt the same feelings. I have been suffering 

from what the Brnzilians call 'saudades,' which literally means, a 

yearning after places or persons, for the last three years, and I 

have sought relief in writing my experiences and reminiscences, 

now imagining that I am showing Damascus to a friend, and then 

relapsing into a form of journal. I have a long string of regrets. 

Firstly, I cannot give my writings to the public in their erode 

state; in the present day the press has settled into a certain 

groove: the English reading public have drawn four lines which 

represent the height, length, breadth, and depth of what they will 

read, and who wants to be read and to be welcomed must write 

within those lines. Add to this that my husband and I have 

already produced a book of Syrian travel, somewhat hard and dry, 

which speaks of Palmyra, Ba'albak, Hebron, the Haunin, the Leja'a, 

Horns, Hamah, the Tullul es Safa, and the Alah, so that there is 

that much less exploration to record. Secondly, as the wife of a 

Consular officer, I avoid politics and official matter en, detail-I 

only use what is public property, or our own affairs, to which I 

have a right, taking no advantage of any knowledge my position 

gives me-whereas all the salt of Turkish life consists of politics 

and official intrigue. Thirdly, where I have seen good I shall 

speak of it with pleasure, and where I have seen the reverse, I 

shall try to be silent; for a book is meant to give pleasure, and 

pain that is inflicted in black and white lasts for ever. Fourthly, 

every one of my friends has begged of me to describe the inner 

life of the harim; a minute detail of some parts of the domestic 

life of all classes of harim, which differ very much from ours, 

would not be suitable for English girls, and I wish to write a book

4 TIle Inner Lije oj Syria. 

which may be read by everybody, and which may appear on every 

table Bans peur et sans reproehe. Besides which, noblesse oblige. I 

have been received with open arms in the greatest intimacy, I 

have eaten bread and salt with all classes, I have been admitted 

to prayer in the mosque tribune, and to all the vie intinUJ. I 

cannot put them under a microscope to make my book entertaining, 

but there is much that I can say, and quite enough to 

give my readers a fair idea of Eastern life. Gratitude is not incumbent 

upon a tourist, but when one has been ramie de la maison, 

and hopes to become so again, and perhaps to the end of one's 

life, one would rather keep that confidencethan conqucr a literary 

success. 1 will endeavour to make the best of the things that 

remain to me: I can warrant their genuineness, and if they are 

tinged with a little colour of rose, and with' Holy Land on the 

brain,' I wrote at the time, and I write now, as I saw, felt, and 

thought." 

Those who are in the habit of leaving their homes, families, 

and dearest ties in England without any definite chance of return, 

and who sally forth into the unknown, will fully understand the 

single line contained in my journal of this day. 

16th December, 1869.-"Some wretched partings, a terrible 

wrench, and general break up at home." To a Frenchman I 

should only say, "Je quittais ma mere." It was a wild night, and 

the express to Dover rattled through the driving winter storm. 

The sky was black as pitch. The wind soughed and surged in 

blasts which drove us from one side of the streets of Dover to the 

other. The sea ran" mountains high." The cockle-shell steamers 

danced up and down in the harbour as if they were playing at 

see-saw on an extensive scale; but what cared I? I had shaken 

the dust off my feet of what Mrs. Grundy is pleased to call 

respectability-the harness of European society. My destination 

was Damascus, the dream of my childhood and girlhood. I am 

to live amongst Bedouin Arab chiefs; I shall smell the desert 

air; I shall have tents, horses, weapons, and be free, like Lady 

Hester Stanhope. I would follow the footsteps of Tancred, and 

live" in that marvellous country, the only land where the Creator 

has deigned to reveal himself to his creatures. I, too, shall 

kneel at "the Tomb," and relieve my burdened spirit. I, too,

6 The Inner Life oj Syr·ia. 

passengers back to' Dover. She looked like 8 "lame duck" 

(consuls will understand me), and her passengers-poor things I 

-pitiable indeed. 

What a wonderful "bear-garden" is the buffet at Calais. 

Some had to sit on the floor with plates in their laps, so great and 

80 rode was the crowd. The reason was evident-people are not 

allowed time to eat. It must be a well paying establishment. 

Perhaps I may offer a useful hint, that they should keep half the 

provisions in painted wood, and carefully put back tho portions of 

the other half until too stale even for that purpose. How uneomfortable 

and expensive foreigners make travelling, Firstly, yOll 

must take your tickets, have your baggage examined, then 

registered, then attend to the porter and all the sub-deputyasaistant-porters, 

buy your book or paper and refreshment under 

the surveillance of the police, and stand in a pen for an indefinite 

period-half-hours are of no consequence-laden with all your 

small baggage. Suddenly the door opens, and the people burst 

out of " quod" as if shot from a gun. The best places are at once 

filled. Then you must fee the guard to secure some little bit of 

comfort. The carriages are excellent, the pace is killing from 

slowness, the stoppages are long, and changes and examinations 

are continual, though smashes such as we have in England arc 

rare. Your mind is kept in an unpleasantly suspended and 

irritated state, from the time of unhousing yourself in the morning, 

to housing yourself at the end of the journey. For instance, they 

will tell you that the train stops at such a place for half-an-hour, 

and starts a quarter-of-an-hour sooner; or that the halt is of ten 

minutes when they give you five. 

This boat acoident caused us to miss our proper train to 

Marseilles, whither I was bound; and as the P. and O. Tanjor« 

was to sail out on the 19th, there was no time to sleep or eat in 

Paris, but only to catch the slow train. Every trouble came at 

once. On arriving at the Bureau des Baggages (Paris), to reclaim 

my luggage, registered from London, two trunks were missing, 

and as if an evil spirit had picked them out, one contained 

nearly all my money, and the other all my creature comforts for 

the journey. I had to decide at once between losing my passage 

or forsaking my missing baggage. I left my name and address,

From Londo» to Alecaudria. 9 

going out to be married, several newly married couples, officers 

about to join their regiments-all excepting myself were Anglo 

Indians. They puzzled me often in conversation, and wereamused 

at my ignorance concerning "tiffins" and "boys" and "griffins," 

and other regimentalisms, which reminded me of our convent 

school jargon. The ,new couples were evidently not used to 

steamers. They never will remember the ventilators over the 

doors, opening upon the saloon, and perhaps all passengers may 

not be so discreet as I am. I had the pleasure of hearing from 

more than one fellow passenger after their arrival in India,travelling 

not only instructs, it also makes friends, sometimes.

10 The Inner Life of Syria. 

CHAPTER II. 

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO BEYROUT. 

25th. (Jhristmas Day.-An auspicious day to. set foot on Eastern 

ground. At dawn we steamed in slowly. For eighteen miles the 

channel is so very narrow and winding as to require a pilot. 

When we anchored we passed a merry morning-I must confess 

it-laughing at the homeward-bound Anglo-Indians coming on 

board. They were such funny figures; but I can remember looking 

just as curious myself after a few years in Brazil, and saw in 

them a picture of what we should be like again after three years 

absence from Europe. All agreed that it was very well to 

laugh, but some of our party confessed that they would be very 

glad to exchange places with them. I was the last to leave the 

ship, and the P. and O. agent, kindly pitying my unprotectedness, 

took me in charge and attended to all my wants. It was my first 

view of Alexandria, and I cannot say that I was much struck-all 

was flat and low, even below sea-level. It looked better from 

the ship's deck, with the sun rising behind it. I had no wish to 

loiter there, and went to three offices immediately to see what 

steamer would most quickly land me at Beyrout. I found that a 

Russian steamer, the Ceres, was about to sail in twenty-four 

hours, and secured my passage. I then went to the telegraph 

office and paid 19s. 6d. for a telegram to Beyrout, which of 

course arrived after me. Nobody knew where Damascus was, and 

I had not been taught to call it Esh Sham, I went to .High Mass 

on Christmas-day, and then called upon our Consul, Mr. B., who 

'YRS very kind to me. I went to the Hotel d'Europe, situated in 

the gayest part of Alexandria" but very second rate j however,

12 TIle Inner Life of S!lria. 

depart it was quite dark. My carriage had been driven away 

by mistake ; I had brought no servant; I could not speak one 

word of Arabic; I did not know the way, and I was on the outskirts 

of Alexandria, alone, foot-sore, tired, and a" little puzzled. 

Some good people, vendors of tripe and other" eatables," kindly 

offered me a seat outside their stall, so I sat down very gratefully, 

and began to consider how I could get back to the hotel, which 

seemed a long way off. Kind Providence sent by the dragoman 

of the English consulate, who,on passing and seeing where I was 

sitting, threw up his eyes and arms, sprang on a minute donkey, 

soon came back with a carriage, and escorted me home. I had 

seen plenty of donkeys, but I could not hire one,as it would have 

necessitated riding en cavalier, which in English clothes would not 

have had a graceful appearance. It was a strange Christmas 

night, spent alone, in a small room at an Alexandrian hotel, passed 

in writing letters home, and in thinking of the merry family 

parties and festivities-and of my mother. 

26tll,.-Next morning at 11 a. m., l\lr. Stanley kindly came 

with his carriage and consular boat, and put me on board the 

Russian Ceres, to sail at mid-day. She was bound for Port 

Sa'id, Jaffa, and Beyrout, which we were to reach on the third 

day. Though rather small after the P. and 0., she was a good seaboat, 

albeit she rolled almost round in the water. The first-class 

part of the vessel was clean, the food good, the wine drinkable, 

the caviare delicious. The deck was very dirty, being crowded 

with orientals from every part of the East, many nations, creeds, 

and tongues, but mostly pilgrims for the Haj. The captain and 

all the officials were most attentive: one or two spoke a little 

French, but unfortunately the stewardess could talk only Russian, 

which was embarrassing. The dirty, crowded deck was the most 

interesting part of the ship, to one who had been always dreaming 

of the East. Each family had their mattresses, and their prayer 

carpets. They never seemed to change place during the whole 

three days; no matter how rough, how sea-sick, they were always 

either in an attitude of devotion, or of devouring, or dozing, or 

lying on their backs, or sitting cross-legged. Occasionally they 

chanted devotions which were so nasal that I was obliged to laugh, 

and when I laughed they did the same-I ..do not notice this

F1YJ1U Aleeandria to Be1Jrout. 13 

peculiarity now. I used invariably to bring all the sweets out of 

the saloon after our meals for the children, so that I was always 

welcome. At first I could not tell what sex individuals belonged 

to, from their picturesque and gaudy dress, which struck me as more 

feminine than masculine. There were amongst them some splendid 

looking creatures, and women handsomely dressed. Steaming out 

of Alexandria was very fine, but that night we ran over a heavy sea. 

I was fortunate in having the ladies' saloon to myself. It was as 

good as a small, comfortable drawing-room, but the heavy rolling 

pitched me four times out of my berth, and the last time, thinking 

that it would save some trouble to stay there, I did. 

27th.-Port Sa'Id was made in twenty-four hours. It looked 

like an old acquaintance, a 'Vest African station, low, flat, hot, 

and sandy. No one would suspect it of containing 12,000 inhabitants: 

to the ship's deck it presents one row of hovels down to 

the water's edge. 'Ve anchored at the entrance of the Suez Canal, 

80 lately the centre of the world's attraction, a narrow channel 

with two tall lighthouses. Here we took on board seven first-class 

passengers, one English officer returning home from India, five 

Americans, and "that little Frenchman." The dinner table became 

animated with violent political discussions, good-humoured 

withal, chiefly upon the Alabama question, Northerner and 

Southerner both being represented, and both attacking '11We 

"Thereupon I gallantly held my own. 

28th.-We had a better sea to Jaffa, which was made in 

twenty-four hours. From this town, Jerusalem lies a forty miles' 

ride inland. Jaffa is a tarbush, or fez, shaped green hill, covered 

with houses which look like a dirty pack of cards or wellrubbed 

dice. It has a garden-like suburb, the German quarter, 

seen to great advantage from a ship's deck. The Russian viceconsul 

came off and kindly called upon me. He took charge of 

another telegram for me to Damascus, which never reached its 

destination, but I am certain not through his fault. Here we lost 

our seven fellow travellers from Port Sa'Id, and picked up an 

Effendi and his harim, and two poor respectable Italians, who 

played concertina and guitar very prettily. They told me that 

they" came of decent people," and, having made a rnariage de 

eamr, were dependant upon their talent, I obtained leave from


were the cleverest builders of the temple, according t Kings (iii. 

5, 6). Some 405 years before Christ, they were treacherously sold 

by their own king to their enemies, and having set fire to their 

ships that no one might fly,they burnt, in their despair, themselves 

and their town. Sidon rose again from her ashes, hut was never 

the same. Our Saviour touched here, according to Mark (vii. 31),and 

also St. Paul (Acts xxvii, 3). 

On the morning of the 29th we anchored very early off Beyrout. 

'Ve had fortunately a calm sea, for it is a difficult and an 

utterly exposed landing, an open roadstead in a bay formed by 

the Nahr el Kelb. Beyrout is charming as viewed from the ship. 

The town, which begins at the water's edge, and whose base is 

washed by the blue Mediterranean, straggles along a fair line of 

coast, and crawls up part of the lower hills. The yellow sand 

beyond the town, and the dark green pine forests which surround 

it, contrast well with the cobalt-coloured bay and the turquoise 

skies. It is backed and flanked on its right by the splendid range 

of Lebanon, upon whose steep sides the rising sun casts delicate 

lights and shades, They are dotted with villages, which in some 

places appear to overhang the sea. There are two domed ruins 

about half an hour out of the town eastwards, which look red like 

bricks, but they are, I am told, made of the common stone of the 

country. They mark where St. George killed the dragon-a feat 

which took place in more sites than one. The air is redolent 

with a smell of pine-wood: every town in the East has its peculiar 

odour, and when once you have been in one, you can tell 

where you are blindfold. That of Damascus is the chamomile 

(Za'azafan). I have recognized it twice in Trieste. The perfume 

of pinewood reached us even on board the ship, and it was deliciously 

refreshing; I no longer wonder that the wise men of 

the west have found vanilla in the bark. 

1\1y sea journey is nowover. This is my future seaport, and it 

promises to be very pleasant, if the inhabitants are as nice as the 

place. 

About 9 o'clock a.m, Mr. (Vice-Consul) Jago kindly came 

on board, and, offering me every assistance, took me ashore with 

my baggage. The landing consists of a few old steps, and a small, 

dirty, fish-bespattered quay. I was led to what appeared to me,


wait a few minutes. She gave me some news of my husband, 

and enlivened our dinner exceedingly. She had enjoyed her visit 

to the interior, but had nearly caused a fracas, as she insisted on 

behaving in that grave Oriental city exactly 88 if she were in her 

own joyous Paris. In Damascus women do not visit cafes, but she 

tnsisted on going and seeing Moslem life in public, which 80 

shocked all True Believers that the Kawwasses, who are anything 

but prudish, begged their Consul not to send them on guardthey 

were "losing their reputation." On another occasion she 

went up to the top of a minaret, and when prayer was called she 

refused to come down. The Shaykh made all kinds of entreaties, 

and failing, sent endless emissaries, to whom at last she replied, 

" Dites au Shaykh que je suis 10, Duchesse de , que je me 

trouve fort bien ici, et que je ne descendmi que quand cela me 

plaire."" Her pleasure did not take place for three-quarters of an 

hour after the call to prayer. 

I spent that evening writing home letters, and forwarding 

some trifles from the bazars. On the morrow I was to leave 

everything connected with European life, civilization, comfort, 

luxury, society, and wend my way inland to the "Pearl of the 

East." The Lebanon range is the boundary line between 

European and purely Eastern and Mahometan life. This exciting 

thought quite preoccupied my mind. 

Beyrout is a demi-civilized, semi-Christianized, demi-semi 

Europeanized town, with a certain amount of comfort and 

European manners and customs: it enjoys perfect safety, being 

on the coast, with soldiers and policemen, and .ships lying Wider 

its windows; it has free communication with Europe by post and 

telegraph-in fact, it is somewhat more European, or rather, 

Levantine, than Oriental. Yet it is several shades more Oriental 

than Alexandria. As soon as you cross the Lebanon range, just 

behind it, you quit an old life for a new life, you leave the new 

world to make acquaintance with the old world, you relapse 

into the days of the Jewish forefathers, Abraham, Isaac and 

Jacob-a purely Oriental and primitive phase. 

30th.-Early this morning a shabby little omnibus, drawn by 

• Tell the Shaykh that I am the Duchess of---,thatI am very comfortable 

here, and that I don't mean to come down till I choose.

F'fOl1J, Alexandria to Beyr01d. 19 

three screws, made its appearance. My English maid, a large pet 

St. Bernard dog, my baggage and I, were squeezed into it or on it. 

Mr. Eldridge kindly sent his Kawwass as guard, and this official 

appeared a most gorgeous creature, with silver-mounted pistols, 

and all sorts of cartouche-boxes, and dangling things. He 

rejoiced in the name of Sakharaddin, which, of course, I pronounced 

"Sardine," and this greatly amused those who had congregated 

to see us off.

TIle Road from Beyrout to Damaseus. 21 

hours down. There is a small night diligence in summer for the 

Turkish mails, with six places for passengers: it is dearer than 

the day diligence, but it obviates the necessity of taking your 

place long beforehand, unless, indeed, there happens to be any 

local panic at Damascus, when Christians and Europeans usually 

fly. I have once been obliged to wa.it a fortnight for a place 

when I was not strong enough to ride. As I remarked, the 

passage from Damascus to Beyrout is one hour less, for--except 

ascending the Anti-Lebanon and Lebanon ranges-it is a gradual 

descent all the way of 2500 feet. The French road is so called 

because it was organized by two brothers of the ancie7z·ne nobleMe, 

devoted Orleanists, Counts Edmond and Loon de Perthuis, 

who left France and embarked in a speculation which has proved 

an exceedingly good one. The passage is tolerably dear, and 

the transport of baggage dearer still, but the service is right 

well done. The drivers change their teams every hour, push 

very fast, and have respectable conducteurs and guards. . 'I'he 

baggage and merchandize are sent in cOO·riots, which are really 

large, long, German covered carts, drawn by mules and horses, and 

the journey occupies about three days. Muleteers have to pay a 

heavy toll, and consequently they prefer the old road, which runs 

more or less close to the new one-it is desperately bad in winter, 

and it is pitiful to see the poor laden animals floundering in the 

mud holes. Indeed, the drive from Beyrout to Damascus when 

the snow is on the mountains is very trying, and foot passengers 

or horsemen sometimes lose their lives in the fierce winds and 

deep drifts, especially at one part of the mountain (Jebel el 

Khokheh). After reaching Damascus, there are no more roads 

and carriages, you must then depend upon goat tracks, mule 

paths, instinct and compass. Franco Pasha. began a highway in the 

Lebanon, but that excellent governor, our very good friend, died 

before he was far.advanced with his work. Just before I left they 

were making or mending a road from Damascus to our village 

--8alahfyyeh, about a quarter-of-an-hour's ride. I took out a very 

pretty pony carriage in the hopes of driving myself. But, firstly, I 

found no horses trained to harness except those for the diligence, 

and, had it been otherwise, it would have been dreadfully monotonous 

always to drive on the French road, and that ono road I


could not have reached from my house without breaking all my 

springs. I was lucky enough to find a purchaser, and used to see 

it going at foots' pace with a small horse drawing it over the ruts 

and holes of the Damascus streets. 

To return from this digression. Immediately on arriving at the 

foot of the Lebanon, we commenced a winding steep ascent, every 

tum giving charming views of the sea and of Beyrout, which we 

did not lose sight of for several hours. lIount&in seemed to rise 

above mountain, each laid out in ledges and shelves of cultivated 

land, like steps. At intervals were dotted clumps of flat-roofed 

houses, much resembling mud boxes, and villages of larger dimensions 

lay at longer intervals. We ascended, and wound round and 

round, or ziz-zagged, till Beyrout and the sea became invisible. 

At last we reached the top, and the glorious red wintry sunset 

gave us a splendid view. It is hard to understand in December 

all that has been written aboutthe fruitfulness of the Lebanon, 

and I was unprepared for the glorious fertility that burst upon my 

sight five months later. After the miracles of nature in South 

America, Syria looked to me like a wilderness of rock and sand, 

treeless and barren-her very mountains were hills. I did not 

forget, however, that South America, endowed with nature in perfection, 

with luxuriant vegetable and rank animal life, possesses no 

history. All is new, progressive, and intelligent, but vulgar and 

parvenu. Whereas Syria, in her "abomination of desolation," is 

the old land-her every stone bas.its story, each ruin is a treasure; 

she teems with relics of departed glory, and monuments of her 

Great Crime. I would rather abide with her, and mourn the past 

and hope for the future amidst her barren rocks and sandy 

deserts, than rush into progression with the newly-born world. It 

is, perhaps, everybody's duty to recommend a railway for Syria; 

but oh! how I shall weep at the desecration of the land, and the 

introduction of European manners and customs. 

'Ve descended at a full canter, and then crossed the plain of 

Coole-Syria, called the Buka'e, a fruitful and cultivated plain of 

great extent, containing over a thousand villages, and separating 

the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon ranges. On the ascent I had 

tempted poor Sakharaddin to break his Itamaaen fast; good 

tobacco, bread, and hard eggs had made him frail, which was very

The Road from Beqrou» to Damascus. 23 

excusable considering the cold. On the road I met three 

strangers, who offered me a little civility, seeing me searching 

for a glass of water at a khan. As I was better mounted than 

they were, I offered in event of our reaching our night halt the 

first, to order supper and beds for them, and they then informed 

me that every house and every accommodation on the road had 

been "retenue" for me, 80 that they were quite at my mercy. I 

sent on a message to secure their comforts, and I was able to 

keep my promise. The halt was Shtora, the half-way house. It 

is kept by a respectable Greek, married to a little Italian, a e 

retired and merry danseuse, rejoicing in the name of Marietta. 

She is much on the same terms with the world there, as our 

" Punch" of the Preston Station used to be in Lancashire. The 

other travellers soon came up; we supped together, and everything 

was very good except the wine. My companions proved to 

be a French employe of the Foreign Office, a Bavarian minister 

on his travels, and a Swedish officer on leave. We had a very 

cheerful evening. By the kindness of the director (Count de 

Perthuis) rooms usually kept sacred were put at my disposal, 80 

that in that out of the way place my maid and I had each a 

charming bed, and the other travellers found the best of the usual 

accommodation. Early the next morning my new acquaintances 

set out for Ba'albak, and I for Damascus. We crossed the rest of 

Buka'a plain, and then commenced the ascent of the Anti-Lebanon. 

Some would say that this range is neither 80 fine nor so interesting 

88 the Lebanon, and perhaps actually upon the carriage road this 

is true, but the Anti-Lebanon off the beaten tracks is wilder, and I 

afterwards learned to think it quite as picturesque. 

The dreariest and ugliest part of the journey is the Sahlet el 

Jedeideh, a flat, tiresome, monotonous bit of plateau, still in the 

the Anti-Lebanon, between Wady el. Kam and \Vady el Kharir. 

The descent of the Anti-Lebanon- is done at a good pace; it seems 

long until you reach the plain Es Sahara, after which, compensation 

begins by entering a beautiful mountain defile, about two 

hours from Damascus. The mountains rise high and abrupt on 

each side of the road, which is lined with trees and brushwood; 

and the Barada-the ancient Abana, they say-rushes in a winding 

bounding torrent through the mountains, and by the road-side to 

..


water the gardens of Damascus. The mountains are called by 

two names-on our side, to the left of the river, Jebel Kaysun: 

and on the other, the right side, KalabBt Mizzeh. 

My private carriage, with only occasional relays, occupied two 

days, and drove eight hours each day. The journey may be 

fairly divided thus, by diligence time: six hours of extreme 

beauty after leaving Beyrout, followed by six hours of rough 

highland and swampy lowland, and these succeeded again by two 

hours of loveliness before reaching Damascus. During my first 

e day's drive I saw nothing that I might not have seen elsewhere ; 

but on the second day, I remember being immensely struck by an 

Arab sleeping against a bit of rock, with his carbine slung to his 

back, and his horse, as in a picture, grazing near him; six months 

later, the same thing affected me 80 little, from seeing it every 

day, that I wondered why I had noted it down. Perhaps we do 

well to write our first impressions, but chiefly for future correction. 

We also met laden camels, mules, muleteers, picturesque 

peasants, well-bred horses and donkeys, all travelling in troopsthen, 

indeed, I began to feel that I was on new ground. 

I reached Damascus at sunset on the last day of 1869, but I 

was unfortunate in my arrival. Were I to return, my horses 

should be ordered to meet me at El Hameh, the last station, or 

else almost two hours from Damascus, and I should ride across the 

Salahiyyeh mountains, as we call them. After a toilsome scramble 

over a barren, rocky range, I should come into a winding tunnel in 

the white rocks, near a little Wely, as we English call a prophet's 

tomb, about five hundred feet above the glorious plain, with the 

gorge of the Abana at my feet, and the river foaming between its 

cliffs. Suddenly, when least prepared, I should gaze, as it were 

out of a window, upon· the poet's dream, the abrupt descent of 

·the mountain,-at its roots a Moslem burial-ground, almost adjoining 

a larger Kurdish village, containing about 15,000 of the 

" roughs" of Syria, and upon the plain the city of Damascus, 

lying in the desert at my feet. I should behold my Pearl, the 

• I was about to write "Mohammed's Paradise," but my husband assures me 

that the "Last of the Prophets" was never nearer to Damascus than Bosra. The 

latter is still called by the Turb Eaki Sham (old Damasoua), and hence probably 

arose the legend.

The Road from Beyrout to Damascus.. 25 

Garden of Eden, the Promised Land, my beautiful white City 

with her swelling domes and tapering minarets, her glittering 

golden crescents set in green of every shade, sparkling with her 

fountains and streams, the Abana rushing through and watering 

the oasis. The river valley spreads its green carpet almost 

thirty miles around the city, and is dotted with tiny white 

villages. All around that again, like another or outside frame, 

and as if nature had drawn the line between green and yellow 

with a ruler, are the reeking sands of the sunburnt Desert. In 

the far horizon to the east are the distant hills and ghostly, misty 

cones, backed by the red and purple of the setting sun. 

Between Salahfyyeh and Damascus is a quarter-of-an-hour's 

ride through cool gardens and orchards. I should gaze once more 

upon the most ancient, the most Oriental, and the most picturesque 

city in the world; and if alone, I should dismount and kneel down, 

and thank Godwith tears for granting me to see that most blessed 

sight again. I did not know or feel all this then. 

And this is how I entered. I went along the carriage-road 

perpetually asking, "Where are the beautiful gardens of 

Damascus?" "Here," they said, pointing" to what, in winter 

time and to English eyes, appeared mere ugly shrubberies, woodclumps, 

and orchards, which extended over the two hours' drive. 

In fact, I saw merely woods bordered with green-a contrast to 

the utter sterility of the Saham! We passed Dummar, a village 

with the river rushing through it. It contains several summer 

villas or palaces of the Wali, Abd el Kadir, and other personages. 

We entered by the road, with the Abana on our right, and finally 

broadening out into the green Merj,· which looked to me like a 

village common. Travellers are foolish enough to encamp here; 

they find it 88 damp 88 can be, and run the risk of fever, 

neuralgia, ague, and dysentery. The first building we passed 

was imposing-the Tekiyeh, founded in 1516 by Sultan Salim L 

for the accommodation of Meccan pilgrims. It has on its southern 

side a beautiful mosque, and the dome is flanked by two tall, 

slender minarets, like knitting-needles. The Tekiyeh now serves 

• There are al.eo two lIerj's-a small one as you enter Damascus, and a large 

tract of ouis eut of Damaacus: and certainly it must be the larger and not the 

amaUer Herj, ifeither wu, as :&Ir. Porter say8,"celobrated in tho 'Arabian Nightti.'"

The Road Iron." Beyrout to Damascue. 27 

whether your horse can possibly get over the next heap, or if he 

will slide, fall, and break your leg. The large slabs are like ice, 

and the small ones are like the" pilgrim's peas" of the old tale. 

'Vith all this, although you may grow to love even the faults of 

Damascus, 80 that you would not have them otherwise, you do not 

appreciate the picturesque the first evening of your arrival. 

My husband came in about an hour after my arrival. The 

only telegram which had reached him was one from London, and 

that one could not be deciphered. He had been there three 

months; the climate had had such an effect upon him, he was 

looking 80 ill from neuralgia, that until he came quite close to me 

I did not know him. We dined, warmed ourselves over a Mangal 

-a large brass dish on a stand, full of live charcoal embers, of 

which it takes two to -hest a large room-and then we began to 

discuss our future plans for our new home. .

28 TIle Inner Life of Syria. 

CHAPTER IV. 

8ETTLING DOWN AT DAMASCUS. 

1st ofJanuary, 1870.-My first thought, before seeing anything, 

was to get out of the damp hotel, and to make a little paradise 

somewhere amongst the hills. I thought that we should probably 

stay here ten years, and have plenty of time to become familiar 

with Syria, After a general inspection we found that life in the 

city had great disadvantages; the lanes, called streets, were like 

the hotel-exceedingly damp, dark, and sad; and we were told 

that in summer it was very highly flavoured. Horses must be 

ridden a long way over these horrid pavements before you reach 

the open country. There is no liberty, as you must be always 

attended by Kawwasses, a sort of body-guard, of which every 

consulate has from two to six. They are picked Moslems, dressed 

in some glaring coloured cloth and gold, big trowsers,embroidered 

gaiters, sash, and slashed jacket; all are gorgeous with silvermounted 

pistols, daggers, cartouche-boxes, and similar martial 

paraphernalia. 

Moreover, there is a certain sense of imprisonment about 

Damascus, as the gates of the city are shut at sunset; the windows 

of the harims are also barred and latticed, to hide the beauty of 

Esh Sham from the insulting gaze of the Giaour. On the other 

hand, the interiors are so grand, so picturesque, and Oriental 

looking, that they make one long to possess "a marble palace." 

Ride out of Damascus by the Bab es Salahfyyeh for about a 

quarter of an hour, up through the gardens and orchards, upon 

what, at the time of my writing, did not deserve to be called a 

road, and you arrive at Salahiyyeh, the Kurdish village of which

The 1111Z-er LiffJ of Syria. 

franc. The boy must have stolen it, or sold it because it ate too 

much. I had brought over with me a young pet St. Bernard, two 

brindled "bull-terriers, and two of the Yarborough breed, and I 

eventually added a Kurdish pup of a very good race. I bought 

three milk goats for the house, and I received two presents, a pet 

lamb and a Nimr (leopard), which became the idol of the 

house.' The domestic hen-yard was duly stocked with all kinds of 

fowls, turkeys, geese, ducks, and guinea fowls, and the garden and 

terrace in the housetop were cultivated and planted with English 

seeds-there I kept my pigeons. When I had got all these things 

together, my greatest difficulty was to prevent them from eating 

one another. It would not be a "happy family." Captain Burton 

declares that it was like" the house that Jack built"_the e 

pigeons 

and domestic fowls picked up the seeds and ate the flowers, the 

cat ate the pigeons and the fowls, the dogs worried the cat, the 

leopard killed the lamb, and harried the goats, till one sprang 

into the river out of sheer despair, and was drowned. It also 

frightened the horses, camel, and donkey to death by jumping on 

their backs, and uttering those shrieks which leopards indulge in 

if annoyed. Though things were really not quite 80 bad, my 

difficulties were great. What I suffered most from was the Nims 

(ichneumon). I never could shoot or catch one, but it used to 

make very free with my pigeons and fowls, and when it could not 

reach far enough to eat them, it used to mangle them. The 

natives told me that it mesmerized the pigeons to the bars of the 

gate, and then sucked their blood. I cannot disbelieve them, because 

I often found a live pigeon or fowl with the breast half 

eaten away. 

And now-if you, my reader, are not already fatigued with my 

installation-I will tell you what kind of position our British 

Consul holds, or should hold, at Damascus, and how we portioned 

out our time. 

A Consul in the East, as envoys of a great Power, is a great 

man. It is a diplomatic post, and he ranks as high as a Minister 

would in Europe. Nearer home, a Consul, unless distinguished by 

some personal merit that cannot bequashed or ignored, is not considered 

gentleman, or Hof-fshig, enough to go to Court. How 

witty lIre Charles Lever, my husband's respected and talented

The IlIlIer Life of Syria. 

and political life; and my husband was, therefore, quite dans BOIl 

assiette. His beat extends from Baghdad on the east to Nablus 

on the south, and as far north as the Aleppo district. Upon him 

devolves the responsibility of the post for Baghdad through the 

Desert, as well as the safety of commerce and protection of 

travellers, and the few English residents, missions, schools, and 

protected subjects. Consequently, he must have a good understanding 

with the Bedawin tribes of the desert; and our relations 

with the Druzes of the Hauran and the Leja'a, which are in the 

wilds, have to be well cemented. . 

At the same time, the Consul who occupies this post at 

Damascus is put in a difficult position. I speak of places and 

positions, not of persons, and I will show the reason. Damascus is 

the heart. and capital of Syria, the residence of the Wali and all 

the chief government authorities, the head-quarters of the army 

and police, the chief majlises, or tribunals, which represent our 

courts of law, chambers, and judges, and all business institutions 

and transactions, besides the religious head-quarters and focus of 

l\Iahometanism. Damascus, therefore, where all the real hard work 

has to be done, ought evidently to be the head-quarters of the 

Consulate-General; the reasons for the Consul-General being made 

to reside at Beyrout are long since obsolete. It is exactly as if the 

Russian Government were to send, let us say, General Ignatieir, 

to London, and subject him to some small man at Brighton, who 

should alone have the right to report to the Foreign-oftice at 

St. Petersburg. Now the Consul of Damascus is immediately 

subject to the Consul-General at Beyrout, whereas he ought to be 

responsible to the Ambassador at Constantinople. Damascus and 

Beyrout are two totally different worlds. Damascus requires 

prompt and decided action, and no loss of time; moreover, any 

order which might apply to Beyrout would be totally inapplicable 

at Damascus. Supposing-of course, it is only a supposition 

-that the immediate superior did not know Arabic, or any 

Eastern language, or had never visited Damascus, the order 

might, in nine cases out of ten, proceed from the advice of a. 

Dragoman interested in the case. Therefore, it is a galling and 

chafing position for the man at Damascus, and one in which he 

could never be fairly appreciated at home. He must do all the

Settling Down at Damascus. 

work, but he must never be heard of. His brains must swell and 

ornament Beyrout reports; and if his superior like him, he may 

refrain from injuring his career. But supposing he were under 

a superior who happened to be weak or unhealthy, or a little 

selfish, or ill-tempered, or otherwise ill-disposed, those reports 

might be tinged with a little bile, or a little wounded vanity, or a 

little jealousy, and the poor Damascus man would gain a bad 

name as a firebrand at the Foreign-office. No one would know 

how it happened except the Damascus man himself, but it would 

be so, and he could not clear himself, as in a court-martial, and 80 

"put the saddle upon the right horse." The man at Damascusno 

matter what his knowledge or superiority may be-is in a 

position, if desired, perpetually to "obey orders and do wrong," 

for the sake of keeping his place. All this would be obviated by 

the Consul-General being situated at the Capital, instead of the 

Consul. The Foreign-office have, I have been told, at last become 

aware of this defect, and directed that the Consulate-General shall 

be located at the capital (1874). 

Whoever lives in Damascus must have good health and 

nerves, must be charmed with Oriental life, and must not care for 

society, comforts, or .luxuries, but be totally occupied with some 

serious pursuit. Should he be a Consul-an old soldier is besthe 

must be accustomed to command with a strong hand. The 

natives must be impressed by him, and know that, if attacked, he 

can fight. He must be able to ride hard, and to rough it in 

mountain or desert, in order to attend to his own work instead 

of sending a Dragoman or a Kawwass, who probably would not 

really go, or, if he did, might be bribed. He must have the 

honour and dignity of England truly at heart, and he should be 

a gentleman to understand fully what this means; not a man 

risen from the ranks, and liable to be "bullied or bribed." He 

should speak Arabic, Persian, and Turkish, as well as English, 

French, and Italian, so as not to take the hearsay of his 

Dragomans. He must be able to converse freely with Arabs, 

Turks, Bedawin, Druzes, Kurds, Jews, l\laronites, Afghans, and 

Persians, and understand their religions and prejudices. He must 

have his reliable men everywhere, and know everything that 

goes on throughout the length and breadth of the country. He

36 

should have a thorough knowledge of Eastern character. He 

mnst keep a hospitable honse, He should be cool, firm, and 

incorruptible. He must not be afraid to do his duty, however 

unpleasant and risky, and having done it! if his Chiefs do not back 

him up, i.e., his Consul-General, his ...Ambassador, and the Secretary 

of State for Foreign ..-\.trairs, the Turkish local authorities know 

that he has done his duty at his own risk, and they admire 

and fear the individual, but spare no pains to get rid of him. 

Such a man is Captain Burton, and such a man is necessarily 

like 8 loadstone to the natives. 'Vere he in no authority the 

country would flock to him and obey him of their own accord from 

his own personal influence amongst them. Respect and influence 

come to him unsought out of his own nature. 

I have seen a Consul almost cry the moment he arrived here, 

and exclaim, "Is this Damascus? Great heavens! I must go back 

to-morrow! I shall break my heart in three days." The place 

docs indeed require great animal spirits and plenty of work. It 

has all the sadness of Venice-as many ruins of departed glory, 

and no society for relief when the day is over. 

Having explained the position of a Consul at Damascus, I will 

now tell you how our time "·88 passed. His day was divided into 

reading, writing, studying, and attending to his official work. It 

was one kind of duty within the town and another without the 

town, which is more difficult and dangerous-to scour mountain 

and desert, to ride hard, and to know everything personally 88 

it actually is going on in the country. For instance, if he heard 

of a case that concerned his consular duty, he went personally 

to ascertain his facts. All his talents are Eastern, and of a 

political and diplomatic kind-his knowledge of Eastern character 

perfect, and he speaks all the languages here known. He was 

often as much needed out of the town as in it; and, genemlly, 

when they thought he was far a,,·ay he was amongst them, and 

they wondered at his knowledge. 

Yon will say, "This was all very well for him, but how did 

you get on?" I did the best thing I think a woman can do. 

I interested myself in all his pursuits, and he allowed me to 

be his companion, his private secretary, and his aide-de-camp; 

thus I saw and learnt much. I can only say that twenty-four

38 

a free fight in the road below, to steal a mare or to wreak an old 

vendetta. Twice I have been called down to the door to take in 

some poor wretch and bind up his sabre cuts. These hubbubs are 

varied in the day time by the whacks of sticks and the cries of 

pain from various wretched animals-dogs, or what not, and the 

wrangling of women in the hammam or in the gardens. 

I have done with myself and my domestic concerns. I thought 

it would amuse you to hear how an Englishwoman would get to 

Damascus, instal herself, and live. I am now going to describe 

Syria generally and Damascus particularly, en vie intime. As a 

woman writing plain facts for women, I beg your indulgence for 

my thousand and one nothings, even if my sheafs and gleanings 

are a curious bundle.

40 

The Inner Life of Syria. 

appearance of a compact mass of claret cases, out of which rise 

innumerable domes and minarets. ""'hen you enter the streets it 

presents quite another aspect. It is divided into three quarters-sthe 

Jewish in the southern part, the l\108lems in the northern and 

western, and the Christians in the eastern. The Moslem quarter 

is clean; the Christian quarter is rather dirty; and the Jewish 80 

offensive, that I have frequently had to gallop through the narrow, 

passage-like streets, over broken pavement, over heaps of dirt, 

holding my handkerchief to my mouth, and the Kawwasses running 

as if they were pursued by wilt! beasts. Everywhere throughout 

the city, but especially in this quarter, the streets, which are 

like a labyrinth, are choked with heaps of offal, and wild dogs, 

gorged "pith carrion, lying-some asleep, others dead and decomposed. 

The best streets are those occupied by the Semi, the 

other Government offices, and the British Consulate; the horsemarket, 

where is also the hotel, and the line which leads off to 

the Maydan. The houses are 80 irregular as to beat description. 

They look inside into a half-court, half-garden, but outside all is 

barred and covered with lattice-work ; on the same principle that 

the gates are closed at sunset, when the Jews are locked into their 

quarter, and the Christians into theirs. Tho bazars are 8 network 

-another labyrinth-and like all the streets and quarters they 

are connected by little dark, narrow passnges, barely broad enough 

for two people to pass abreast. I can only compare them with 

a rabbit warren. Even now I could not find my way about 

alone, nor would I remain in a hazar alone at night, for fear of 

the dogs. 

Some of the streets are dark, mysterious, and picturesque 

looking. Each has one or two fountains, some beautiful and some 

stagnant: with this generous supply of water there is no excuse 

for dirt. Another peculiarity is that every house has 8 mean 

entrance and approach. This is done purposely to deceive the 

Government, and not to betray "That may be within, especially in 

time of looting and confiscation. You approach an entrance 

choked with rubbish, with the meanest doorway, and perhaps 

winding passage, or outer circle of courtyard, and you think with 

horror, "'Vhat people I must be going to visit I" You then 

enter a second court, and are charmed and dazzled. The house is

A .General Vietv of Da111a8CUS. 41 

thoroughly clean and perfumed. You are suddenly conducted 

through a spacious court paved with marble, with marble 

fountains, gold fish, and with 8 wealth of orange, lemon, and 

jessamine trees. The Lfwan and the Ka'ah, are all inlaid with 

gold and ebony, with sandal wood and with mother-of-pearl, in 

old Arabesque patterns, and stained glass windows. 

All about the streets of the city you are charmed with 

picturesque khans, with beautiful mosques, with bits of old architecture 

and sculpturing peeping out of the bazars or the houses. 

Damascus in her best days must have been something glorious. 

She is now only a beautiful wreck of Oriental splendour. 

The" Street called Straight," runs from west to east, where it 

ends in Bab Sharki. It is an English mile long, but it is so 

crooked and intersected with bazars, that I should defy anybody 

to guess that it was meant to be one continuous line, without a 

Kawwass to 'Pilot them through. I must disagree, however, with 

Ilark Twain, before whose "Pilgrim's Progress" I salaam with 

hilarious worship, that it is the only bit of irony in the Bible. 

I maintain, and I am afraid I shall give offence by so doing, that 

nobody understands the Bible except those whohave lived in Syria, 

with the Scriptures in their hand to study on the spot. Nobody 

-putting the Divine nature aside-ever knew the Syrians so well 

&8 our Saviour: he was born, lived, and died amongst them, and 

nobody who has lived amongst them can be blind to the fact that 

there are several bits of irony in the Bible. 

I cannot say enough on the subject of tho bazars, and the 

picturesque figures to be met with in Damascus. 'Tho strings of 

laden camels, and the delul, or dromedary, with gaudy trappings; 

the Cireassians and Anatolians, the wild Bedawin Shaykhs, tho 

fat, oily, cunning, money-making Jew, the warlike-looking Druze, 

the rough Kurd, the sleek, fawning,frightened Christian, the grave, 

sinister Moslem, the Persian, the waddling Turk, the quiet, deeplooking 

Afghan, the dark and trusty .A.lgcrine-every costume of 

Asia, every sect of religion, all talking different tongues, ull 

bringing their wares to sell or coming to buy; every tongue, 

every race, jostling one another, and struggling through the 

strings of mules, camels, donkeys, and thoroughbred mares, with 

gaudy trappings, led by their Saiscs, The Kawwasses swaggering

A Gelleral Jriezo of Damascus. 

Arwam), full of divan stuffs and embroidered jackets; the sweet 

hazar (Stik el Halawiyyat), of which some few are very tasty and 

pleasant; the mercers', the spice bazar, the box or trunk bazar, 

and last, but not least, the old clo', which is exceedingly artistic. 

There is a great difference between the true Eastern bazars, and 

those where they sell Manchester prints and the refuse of Europe. 

At first every one used to take me to these stalls to show off 

what they thought splendid goods, and were much astonished at 

my saying that I would not give sixpence for all they contained. 

They are the sort of things you would see on a penny stall in any 

English fair. All were equally surprised at the admiration I 

showed for their own beautiful things, to which they were used, 

and which consequently they undervalued. As I wish now to 

describe Damascus, I will keep a day's shopping for a separate 

chapter. 

On the north-west side is a suburb with gardens, which is more 

or less the quarter of the Turkish officers and their families. On 

the north-east side is a Moslem cemetery; on the south-east, 

beyond the walls, lie the Protestant, the Jewish, and the native 

Christian or Catholic cemeteries; and beyond these are gardens 

and olive groves. On the south-west corner are another Moslem 

graveyard and another suburb. The old walls surrounding 

Damascus, sometimes double like the portals, are wonderfully 

interesting. They are built with those large stones which are the 

wonder of the present age. In some parts there are houses on 

the top, which makes one understand how Rahab dwelt on the 

town wall, and let down the spies by a cord through the window, 

and how St. Paul descended in a basket. Damascus has thirteen 

gates, all closed at SUDset, and other inner doors, di viding the 

religious quarters ; by these Christians, l\Ioslcl11S, and Jews are 

locked into their respective quarters. 'I'he city gates arc the 131ib 

Sharki (the eastern gate); the Bab ee Saghir (little gutc), to the 

south; the Babel Jabyah, called so from a village; the Babel Hadid 

(iron gate); the Bsb Faraj (gate of joy); the Bab Faradis (gate 

of Paradise), so called from the gardens; the Bub es Salaam (gate 

of peace), to the north; the Bab Ttima (Thomas's gate) is a northeastern 

gate; and the Bab Kisan,80 called after its founder. Near 

the latter St. Paul escaped; it was pierced in the old wall to tho

44 . The Inner Life oj Syria. 

south-east, and has now been closed some 700 years. Then come 

the Bab es Salahiyyeh, and the Buwwabat Allah, closing the 

Maydan, these two being outposts of the city; the Bab el Berid 

and the Bab Jeinin belonging to the great mosque; they are 

called so after the two sons of Ad. 

We will begin our walk at the Bab es Saghir, the little or 

southern gate, a Roman portal patched by the Saracens. There 

is a double gate, one belonging to each wall" for both ancient 

enceintes remain in this part. Outside lies a Moslem cemetery, a 

curious spot filled with little oblong, roof-shaped tombs, of brick 

and mud and whitewash ; fanciful wooden green-painted cupolas, 

with gilded crescents at their tops. At every headstone is an inscription, 

and a niche for a pot of water and a green branch of 

myrtle; these are renewed every Friday, when the Moslems 

come to pray, to cry, to gossip, and to intone the Koran. They 

certainly do not forget their dead. These mourners are chiefly 

women, each looking like a walking white sugar-loaf, in their 

white linen Izars, with their faces shrouded with the l\fand£l or 

coloured kerchief. Here lie the warriors and statesmen of Moslem 

history. The chief are the great l\[oawiyeh, the founder of the 

Ommiad dynasty; three of Mohammed's wives, and the younger 

Fatima, his grandchild, daughter of Ali, by the elder Fatima; Ibn 

As81{ir, the historian of Damascus, and Bila,} el Habashi, l\Iohammed's 

brazen-lunged crier. We must mount a heap of rubbish in 

the centre of this cemetery, to see a splendid view of the city, the 

Salahiyyeh, and the wild cleft of the Barada, with Hermon in the 

distance. We will then keep along the wall to the south-east till 

we reach Bab Kisan, the walled-up gate near which St. Paul left 

the city. " And through a window in a basket was I let down by 

the wall, and escaped" (2 Cor. xxi. 33). The window was shown 

till lately. I have heard scoffers say that he chose a spot two 

yards from the sentry, but I conclude, if his escape was protected 

by our Lord, that this might have been permitted, to make it 

more manifest. In front, amongst the walnut trees, is a little 

cupola'd tomb containing the remains of one Jiryus, a porter who 

befriended St. Paul, and was on that account killed; he is now 

honoured as a saint and martyr. There is a rickety minaret, and 

a white-domed tomb, which contains the remains of Sidi Bilsl.

A General View oj Damascus. 45 

I shall lead you outside the walls till we reach Bdb Tuma, and 

then ride back to the Bab Sharki, as it is a most picturesque bit 

of Damascus. It is a Saracen gate, and has an inscription on 

the "lintel concerning Sultan Kala'iin, dated A.H. 634. There is 

a queer old bridge near it, crossing the Barada, We will ride 

outside again to look at a white-domed building, where Shaykh 

Arslan is buried; here a Cuflc inscription tells us that Khaled, 

"the Sword of God," during the six years' conquest of Syria, had 

his head-quarters. We can now ride back to and through Bab 

Sharki, the eastern gate, around which is the Christian quarter 

and all the holy places. It is a portal with a central and two side 

arches. The central and the southern have been walled up 800 

years: the northern arch is now the city gate, and the eastern 

entrance of Straight Street. There is, on the opposite side of the 

city, an ancient western gate exactly corresponding to it: we find 

this Bab el Jabyah near the Mosque es Sunanniyyeh. The central 

and northern arches have long been shut up, and the southern 

only is open: an inscription on the lintel shows it was repaired by 

Nur ed Din; between the two the old Roman street ran straight 88 

a knitting-needle from east to west. 

We must now ascend the minaret, for it owns one of the best 

views of Damascus. There is also much to see about Bab Sharki. 

For instance, close to it lies a small underground chapel, in a cave, 

which is said to be the house of Ananias, and where St. Paul was 

hid. When any English Catholics come, I send for a priest, and 

petition that we may have mass and communion, a petition which 

is always granted. The site of the ancient Church of the Cross is 

supposed to have covered this ground, but it is nowno more. Yon 

descend by steps to the cavern, which requires to be lighted for 

that purpose. The house of Na'aman the leper, close outside this 

gate, is now covered by a leper hospital-not a pleasant place to 

visit, even for charitable purposes. The house of Judas, where 

Paul lodged, is in a lane off Straight Street. One sees but a 

scrap peeping out from among bazar stalls, and ncar it is an old 

tomb covered with rags, said to be that of Ananias. The holy 

places are thus but a stone's throw from the eastern gate. Two 

remarkable places seem to be but little known-old houses, which, 

like all other ancient places of Damascus, have a very underground

A General View of Damascus. 47 

The monastery of Terra Santa (Spanish Franciscans) is poor. 

The JIaronite Catholic, although not wealthy, has a new school of 

20 children, and is under Padre MUsa, acting for the Patriarch, 

who lives in the Lebanon. 

Still in the Christian quarter, but nearer the middle of it, is 

the Greek Orthodox Cathedral, a large, conspicuous red building, 

safe under the wing of Russian influence, and full of richesmarbles 

and paintings and silver plate; it is worth looking at, 

though modem. Attached to it is the Patriarchate, and school of 

500 children. All this quarter was burnt and the Christians 

massacred in 1860, of which there are still black and charred 

reminders. There is nothing splendid to show you, but we will 

just peep into each of them, that you may feel satisfied you have 

left nothing undone. 'Ve will, then, take a cup of coffee with dear 

Mere Bigod, the Reverend Mother of the Sisters of Charity, also 

with my confessor, Fray Emmanuel Forner, superior of the Francisan 

monks, a venerable man, who looks as if he had been carved 

ont of an old oak-tree. We will also see the two bishops-l\Iatnin 

Ilacarius, of the Greek Catholic Church, a holy, mild, benignant 

ecclesiastic, a true Eastern gentleman, with the sweetest manners 

and voice, and speaking the purest Arabic; thence we will visit 

Bishop Ya'akub of the Syrian Catholic Church, and with two 

bishops' blessings we should go home content. 

I have asked you to imagine that you are paying me, your 

cicerone, a visit at Damascus. I also write for those who really 

know nothing about the city, for those who will not read heavy 

Iiterature, I do not mean to speak disrespectfully of the Crusaders, 

but when we remember that Damascus was founded by UZ, 

SOD of Aram, son of Shem, son of Noah, and that it was already 

existing, perhaps flourishing, in the time of Abraham, who lived 

round about the city, and that Abraham was born in the year 

2008 A.M., it does seem to make the Crusaders rather modern. ITer 

history should be divided into six periods, for six times she hn..s 

changed masters, six times she has been sacked, looted, and 

burnt, and six times she has risen Pheonix-Iike out of her own 

ashes. She is the only real Eternal City. 'Ve know she wus 

independent for 1450 years, but how much longer before that \\'0 

cannot trace. Then the Babylonian and Persian monarchs held

A General Viele of DanUlBCU8. 49 

persioa of Babel would be brought to the banks of the Abana; 

that such a site once found would be occupied, and that once 

occupied it would never be deserted. He also says that "not only 

can no city lay claim to such high antiquity, but that few can vie 

with it in the importance of the events which have happened 

within its walls. Twice it has been the capital of great emperors. 

At one time its monarch ruled from the shores of the Atlantic to 

the Himalayas and the banks of the Indus. This was in the time 

or lloawiyah, the first Khalif of the Omiades, who adorned the city 

gorgeously; he also appropriated the great mosque, which the 

Khalif el Walid refitted at a vast expense. Next come the 

Crusades under Baldwin and Conrad and Louis VII., and then 

Nur ed Din and Salah ed Din (Saladin). Her riches must have 

been royally splendid until Tamerlane, whom the citizens still 

call El Wahsh, the wild beast, in 1401 ordered a hideous massacre, 

which was copied in 1860. Of that magnificence, you see, there 

are only a few decayed remains, which are more attractive than 

the new grandeur of any other city. But they make one sad-oh! 

80 very sad. The writings' of the fathers of the Eastern Church, 

antiquities, MSS., silk divans ornamented with gold and jewels, 

rich fabrics, libraries filled with rare literature, Ambesqued walls 

and ceilings, palaces with marble halls and inlaid fountains, all disappeared 

under the horse-hoofs of "El 'Vahsh." It is said that 

only one Christian family escaped, and their descendants have 

handed down for five centuries the story of this reign of terror. 

In 1500, Sultan Salim took the city, and the Turks have held 

it ever since. In 1830, Ibrahim Pasha entered the gates ill 

triumph, and they were then for the first time opened to Europeans 

and Christians; before his day it was as inaccessible as 

Mecca. The first British Consul, Mr. Farren, rode through it in 

full uniform, protected by Egyptian soldiers and a band of 

Jannissaries, amid curses loud and deep, only suppressed through 

fear. He must have been a brave man. Its station among the 

capitals of the world has been so uniform, that the presence of 

the throne never seems to have advanced its internal welfare, nor 

did royal removals cause decay. It has existed and prospered 

alike under Persian despotism, Grecian anarchy, Roman patronage, 

and it exists and prospers still under Turkish oppression 

E


and misrule. Though it has never rivalled Nineveh, Babylon, 

nor Thebes, it has not resembled them in the greatness of their 

fall. In short, Damascus is an excellent monument of the Italian 

proverb, "Chi va piano va sano, e chi va sano va lontano," 

Now we have arrived at the castle near Bab el Hadfd (Gate of 

Iron). The ramparts, towering above everything, are 280 yards 

long, and 200 broad, and the old broken down building occupies 

the whole of the north-west corner of the city. It is partly fronted 

by a moat, which can be filled from the river. The stones are 

very large, and probably purloined from the old walls; the walls 

are of great height, and the heavy, massive flanking towers are 

somewhat imposing-but it is nothing but a mere shell. 

In the middle of the seed bazar, where we now stand, there is 

a magnificent Jloorish gateway, the spacious interior lighted by 

nine lofty domes, and supported by massive piers. This is the 

Khan As'ad Pasha. At the end of this Stik is one of the most 

splendid houses in Damascus, with seven courts and saloons, 

gorgeously decorated; it still belongs to his descendants. You 

want to know what a Khan is. It is a large covered courtyard, 

with rooms, often double-storied, opening on to a balcony running 

all around, and looking into ·the hollow square. A poor Khan 

mny be a mere shed, but this is the use of all, great and little: 

it is the native form of the hotel, where caravans and individuals 

put up, as in an inn. The baggage is stowed away, the animals 

are picketted in the court, the owners lie on their rugs, and if a 

higher class man comes, he may have a room. Some of the grand 

Khans, like this, for instance, when built in the cities, contain 

counting-houses, stores, and business-rooms. There were only 

Khans half a century ago, and Damascus is still full of them. 

You never see a native, unless he bo thoroughly Europeanized, at 

Dcmetri's, They all go to their own Caravanserais. Close by 

this Khan is the school established by Nur ed Din, and his tomb 

is in the tailors' bazar hard by. Not far from the Mosque runs 

a narrow street, containing two very fine buildings opposite each 

other. On our left is the Mausoleum of }\Ielek ed Zahir Bibars, 

built by his son, Melek es Said, in A.D. 1277. Opposite is a 

mosque, school, and his own mausoleum, all erected by himself. 

The little mosque is very beautiful, covered with mosaic, a gold

A General View of Damascus. 51 

ground, and green palm-trees. Such was the whole of the Great 

Mosque before it was despoiled. 

Come and see the interior of the Moslem school. Here are 

rows of boys sitting cross-legged, learning to write. Notice the 

long brass inkstands in every girdle, and the reed pens in their 

right hands; how they take the paper in the left hand, crumple 

it, and write as fast from right to left as we do in our way. The 

master is explaining to me their studies-Reading, 'Riting, 'Rithmetic, 

and the Koran, but not our fourth R-Revolution. He 

is now expounding the Book, and they are learning to write 

sentences correctly, to understand their import, and to learn them 

by heart. This is considered an ample education, and it is not 

everyone who can do so much. The tomb of l\Ielek es Said's 

father adjoins the school, a very ancient and picturesque house, 

with a green, cemetery-like, melancholy court, containing a 

large fountain full of gold-fish. The tomb, in another adjoining 

court, is in a terrible state of decay. All these buildings 

belong to the mosque. When furnished with slippers we enter 

and see the prettiest Mosque in the city, the Jami'a es Sunamyyeh, 

80 called after Senan Pasha. He built it in 1581, whilst 

he was Wali, and he has left his mark upon the city. Its minaret 

is covered with green glazed tiles, which flash gaily in the SUD. 

The interior is full of antique columns of porphyry and marble, 

a really splendid sight, showing what the Turk could do three 

centuries ago. We now pass the somewhat dilapidated mausoleum 

of Abu Obeidah ibn Aljerah, who commanded the Moslems 

at the capture of the city. He died at fifty-eight years of age, in 

the pestilence following the Six Years' \\!ar, during which he was 

Commander-in-Chief. Hence the eighteenth year of the Hegira 

(A.D. 1640) is known in history as "the year of the mortality." 

We now pass the armourers' and narghfleh stalls, and here we 

see Bedawin buying up old guns which, barring accidents, can do 

little harm either to neighbours or travellers. Then we come to 

a square block, the Serai, or palace, adjoining which are the 

prison, the offices of the Commander-in-Chief, the new large 

barracks built by Ibrahim Pasha, the courts of justice, the Diwan, 

or municipal chambers, the Government offices, and the British 

Consulate. All these will not much interest you or me.


That little street (it is only big enough to admit one horse at a 

time), opposite the British Consulate, will lead us to the horsemarket, 

and it is very lively early on Friday morning. You will 

there see every kind of kaddish (i. e., underbred beasts), all sizes, 

shapes, colours, and prices; also mules, donkeys, and camels. 

As in the bazars, every costume appears, the wearers sitting on 

little' stools, drinking coffee, buying and selling, haggling and 

discussing the merits of their property. I do not say that you 

cannot pick up for a trifle a useful beast that would carry baggage 

or serve as a mount for your cook, but certainly none show race 

or blood. I often come down to look on, put my horses up at the 

Khan opposite, and breakfast at the hotel, which you see is but a 

stone's throw distant. 

The group of patient, small donkeys for hire lead a curious 

life. They live at Salahiyyeh; in the morning, at daylight, you 

hear a tremendous whooping and rushing, and shortly past your 

windows fly about fifty of these four-legged slaves quite merrily, 

with their heels in the air. They have been browsing all night 

on Allah knows what. This is their stand-they are hired during 

the day for a very small sum. They never look tired, the boys 

never own the truth, but they must often be worked off their legs. 

'I'hey are unshod, so as not to slip on the stones. At dusk they 

come back as they went, but not so jauntily. I always quarrel 

with the donkey lads. They point a stick and drive it in, 80 that 

every poor beast has two raws on each side of his crupper. As I 

always take the stick, break it, and throw it away, they all 

know me so well now that, as you may notice, all hide or drop 

their implements of torture when they see me coming. 

'Ve can now visit the Tekiyyeh and its beautiful l\[osque, 

which I mentioned on my entrance to Damascus. We cross the 

Barada by a wooden bridge, and ride up the bank of the river. 

This is the little Merj, and the Abana (?) or Barada winds through 

it like a serpent. Can you see any reason why it should be 

celehrated-and will you not agree with me, that if it were not for 

the domes and needles of the Tekiyyeh, and the picturesque 

mosques and mausoleums peeping out of the green, that it would 

greatly resemble a marshy English common? 

I will not take you now to the Maydan; we will go there in 8

A General View oj Damascus. 53 

day or two. I am trying for to-day only, to show you Damascus 

on )lunay's plan, and to make it as light as heavy work can be. 

But this will be your dullest ride; after which I mean to go 

upon my own plan, and I have saved all the best things for 

that purpose. You have already gone over some ground, though 

you think that I have shown you but little. But we must not 

tire ourselves, 88 we shall escort the "Raj" to-morrow. One 

advantage is, that, no matter where you are, you are seeing 

Oriental life in its purest and most unadulterated form. 

NOTB.-The Bible references wanted in Damascus are :-Genesis xv. 2; 2 Kings 

or 2 Samuel viii. 5,6, ix. 9, 10; 8 Kings or 1 Kings xiii. 18, xx. 84:; 4 Kings or 

2 Kings iL 7-16; 1 Paralipomenon or Chronicles xvi 2, S, xviii. 5, 6; Ezekiel 

xxvii. 16; Isaiah vii. 8; Amos i. 5; 4 Kings or 2 Kings v.; 2 Cor. xxi. 32, 33; 

Acta ix. and xxii.

DtJlCription oj the Haj, and what we Saw. 57 

gradually increasing in size as they were nearer the holy 

banner, and were borne in banner-holders at the soldiers' right 

side. The incense burners and the muezzins preceded the Sanjak, 

which was in charge of three men, one holding the staff, and the 

other two the stays of gold and green stuff. . The etui of the holy 

banner is sent from Constantinople when the old flag is worn out, 

also on special occasions, as when a Sultan succeeds to the throne. 

It was worked over with the usual citations from the Koran, and 

sundry talismans of gilt metal were attached to the lower apex. 

The flag itself was in a stiff covering, and all the material was 

kasab (brocade) of green and gold. It was duly lowered when 

being carried into the l\Iasjid el Sanjakdar. When the holy banner 

accompanies the Sultan and the Grand-Vizier to the field it has 

an especial guard of the stoutest and bravest slaves of the palace, 

and these bear the title of " Sanjakders." As the holy banner 

entered the passage a gun fired, and the Weli and Mushir recited 

the afternoon prayers (el Asr). At "3 p.m. another gun directed 

the procession to be resumed, and it passed up the S6k Sumjiyeh 

in the order before mentioned, band, thurifer-bearers, l\[uezzins 

chanting hymns, and flags. Amongst them appeared a diminutive 

dervish in a ragged and patched ted coat and a worked 

fool's-cap with fur fringe, and carrying a symbol of his craft, 

which resembled a double bladed battle-axe or a javelin, six feet 

long. The Sanjak was followed by a guard and a crowdof people, . 

and for that night it was deposited in the Serai of the Mushir. 

Accompanied by the Kawwasses, we attended the ceremony 

throughout, and the officer commanding the escort kindly placed 

us in a conspicuous position whence the procession could be 

viewed. The spectators did not show a trace of ill-feeling, but 

quite the reverse. 

The third day was the grand day of the fetes, and it opened 

with fine clear weather, ice appearing on the pavement. My 

husband and I and one friend drove in Abd el Kadir's carriage, 

then nearly the only one in the town, to the new Kishlet el 

Maydan (l\Iaydan barracks), where we met the Wali, or Governor 

General, and the lIushir, or Commander-in-Chief, of the Wilayet of 

Syria. These barracks are in the heart of the Maydan, or southern 

suburb of Damascus,which is peopled by the most fanatical of tho


middle and the lower classes, and where religious and political outbreaks 

generally begin; but we were received with all possible 

civility-the soldiers presented arms to us; not a taunting word 

was said, nor did anyone spit-a few years ago we should have 

been stoned. The people smiled and seemed to take it as a compliment-the 

presence of strangers, who were anxious to witness 

their festivities. The streets were crowded all day with pilgrims 

and sight-seers: their behaviour was perfect. This procession is 

for the departure of the" Mahmal " which represents the State 

Litter, in which Ayesha, the Prophet's wife, rode from Damascus, 

and the joining of the Haj, or pilgrimage caravan. All Damascus, 

men, women and children, were in best attire. The harims of the 

wealthy driving, others riding horses, asses, and camels, and 

crowds on foot, repaired at 8 a.m. towards the suburb El Maydain. 

The narrow bazars were in places blockaded, and the house-tops 

were variegated with many-coloured dresses-not a few were 

there. It was a true carnivaletta delle donne, and all seemed 

greatly to enjoy their holiday. Amongst the multitude the 

Persians and Turkmans were distinguished by their caps and huge 

cloaks of sheepskin; the dark Hindostan, the Afghans with large 

white turbans, and the- Moghrabis and West Africans in the normal 

white burnous were plentiful. There were Samarkand and Bokhara 

Moslems, with flat faces, flat noses, pigs' eyes, vacant stare, 

hair pale brown, or yellow, like Russians; hardly any, or very 

scanty beards, huge ragged turbans, no colour, wound round 

shaggy fur caps. 

Turkish soldiers in zouave uniforms, Persian pilgrims in felt 

and purple beards (dyed with henna). They used to wear 

lambskin I was told, but it was out of fashion. They were fine 

stalwart fellows, and wore close-fitting long-skirted coats, of a 

shawl pattern, or coloured broad-cloth-mostly green, and richly 

braided. There were pale-faced Jews, with the peculiar expression, 

lips, and features of their race. 

Dervishes go to knots of women, sing or recite for their benefit 

blessings on the Prophet, or verses in praise of charity. Dishevelled 

hair and flowing matted beard fall over shoulders and 

chest. Felt cap, or Taj, on head; leopard or deer or gazelle skin 

hang about their shoulders; huge wooden beads hang down from

Description of the Haj, and what we Saw. 59 

neck to girdle. He carries either a real calabash, or coco de mer 

Kaj Kul, or tin imitation of one. Women drop into it small coins 

or bits of bread. Dervishes wander about with tom-toms and fifes, 

to collect alms. There was one at the Semi, at the Mushir's feet. 

His face was very interesting. Damascus Moslems wear fur 

pelisses, and have a peculiar face, with a sinister expression, 

bleached skins, black hands, and look bilious. 

The Druzes wear huge white peculiar turbans wound round the 

tarbush, which has no tassel (this is a sign of Government employment). 

Black or green cloaks-blue garments-here and there a 

fine mare. They despise all, but do not show it; are inwardly 

sneering, but outwardly exchange many a gossip. 

I record these, my first impressions, as we passed through the 

Dervishfyeh quarter, the Sunanfyyeh bazar, and Bab Musalla, to 

Haydain. 

There were guides and guards with matchlocks and swords. I 

saw swarthy skins, wild faces, fierce eyes; incongruous variety of 

costume-c-some flowing, some scanty, some new and bright, others 

old and grimy. Mules and camels were laden with merchandize for 

the annual fair at Ma7Arib. Children out for a holiday riding on 

the tops of bales. Some merchants on ambling ponies, asses, 

dromedaries, and on foot. Kalachjes, stout young Damascenes, wore 

a dress which was a cross between town and desert costume. They 

took short runs, jumps, and skips, playing antics; every two or 

three hundred yards they would stop, form a ring, and dance 

sword dances; others made sham fights, and would skip about, 

brandish and twirl long guns, point muskets to earth, and fire and 

load, as they do in Dahome, said Captain Burton. 

Detachments of foot-soldiers piled their muskets on both sides 

or the Maydan street (almost a mile), and all presented arms to 

us as we passed. Our rendezvous was at the l\[aydtin barracks, 

built like those of the Christian quarter, Kishlat Bab el Sharki, 

since the massacre of 1860, in order to control the disorders of the 

population. We were received by the officer in command, and 

were shown into an upper room, which had been prepared for us. 

Nothing could exceed the civility of those on duty. The procession 

began at 9.30 a.m, with the appearance of three Tabl 

(kettle drums) preceding twelve camels, that bore well-worn tents

Description of the.HaJ·, and 'lvltat uie Saw. 61 

(astride like a man), and caracoled over a pavement as slippery 

88 glass. 

There was a pause which enabled me to take notes. Tents of 

three poles, eight or ten feet long, like piled muskets, supporting 

ragged canvas extempore tents, under which sat a vendor on a 

carpet, surrounded by wooden boxes, trays of sweetmeats, parched 

grain, dates, etc. Here baskets of pickled turnips and beetroot, 

khamio eaten as kitchen with dry bread; there sherbet and water 

men, with their peculiar cry, tinkling their brass cups, sellers of 

liquorice-water (it grows everywhere here in the plains). The 

skin is slung on the back; he carries it under the right arm, brass 

spout in right hand, and clattering his bright brass saucers, chaunts, 

"0 Bountiful one! cool and refleshing, purify thy blood." Sellers 

of bread, cakes, fruit, and other eatables, hawk about goods in 

crowds. Each has a peculiar street cry, and all try to outvie each 

other as to who shall cry the loudest. Women of doubtful 

character, only seen on such days, veils drawn aside, go into shops 

and drink drams, and show painted cherry cheeks and eyes blackrimmed 

with kohl, looking like a washed sweep or a half-cleaned 

collier. 

Presently a band struck up; it was composed of fifes, horns, 

cymbals, comets, and pagoda-like instruments in brass, hung 

around with bells. It was wild and wailing music, more eonducive 

to melancholy than to fighting. A flourish of trumpets 

announced the approach of the cavalry escort, which preceded 

the carriage of their excellencies the 'Vali and the Mushir. Tho 

soldiers ran to unpile and present arms. The chief civil and 

military authorities came up to the room which they had prepared 

for U8, and we were presented with coffee and cigarettes, Tho 

":-'ali was most kind, and explained everything to me. I learnt 

that the escort were Bedawin Anazeh, enrolled expressly for protecting 

the caravan; not regulars in point of discipline, and 

ignorant of regular drills, nor irregulars, because they wear a 

uniform, have their own horses, and are supplied by Government 

with short rifles, revolvers, and carbines, They ride in 

double file; the four foremost (Hult311'S jesters) have tomtoms one 

each side of the saddle bow, 0.11(1 strike them with short pieces of 

thick, strong leather, and are heard from afar. 'They hold their

Description of the Haj, and uha: toe Saw. 67 

The Nizam, amounting to one short buluk (battalion), 350 sniders, 

and a squadron of 69 sabres, presently sct out for the south, 

and the rest of the troops galloped past in a somewhat loose 

close order. The people began to disperse. The Sanjak was 

carried back into Damascus, and the Mahmal, after an hour's 

delay, started at the sound of a gun for the first station, the 

Khan Denur, The Meccan pilgrims usually loiter in the city 

88 long as possible; many, however, march by instalments. First 

official troops and a few pilgrims, then those who flock to the 

ten days' fair at Mazarib, and lastly all remaining pilgrims and 

guards. 

Our horses were then brought near the tent for us to mount, 

and my husband in semi-uniform proceeded to join the Raj. 

'Ve were both pleasantly affected by the courtesy of the pilgrims, 

and the cordiality of the chief officers, especially of the Kilar 

Amini, or "Lord of the Pilgrimage," entitled in the Rejsz (the 

)(oslem Holy Land) the Amir EI Raj, Ahmed Bozo Pasha, the 

Kurd who has been chosen ten times for this delicate duty. The 

Surreh Amini, or treasurer, Mustafa Effendi, a man of high consideration 

in Brussa, invited us to become his guests, and the 

officer commanding the escort, Omar Beg, supplied us with a 

amall party of troopers. This courtesy of demeanour has ever 

distinguished Damascenes despite their fanaticism, and they do 

what Christians would do well to imitate-they receive us with 

open arms, trusting that our hearts may be touched and turned 

by the spectacle towards the "saving faith" El Islam. I must 

say that the Raj is by far the most interesting ceremony or 

spectacle I have ever witnessed, and by far the grandest in a 

wild picturesque point of view. It is a gorgeous pageant. The 

subject is most interesting, for those time-honoured observances 

are threatened with extinction from the effect of steam communi.. 

cation, and especially of the Lesseps Canal. It is a sight interesting 

to students of ancient usages. It embraces people of all 

classes, nations, and tongues, and their characteristics'are prominently 

developed on such occasions; and, moreover, these 

ceremonies are the remnants of local colouring that linger still 

in the ancient city of thc Caliphs. 

The marches to Mazarib are three, viz.-Damascus to Khan


the north were the white bell tents of the Nizam or regulars, 

under their Mir Alai, Brigadier-General Omar Beg, a Hungarian 

officer who has seen much service in Turkey, and who has adopted 

the faith and mode of living of EI Islam. Eastward rose the large 

green tents of the Persian pilgrims, who are generally known by 

their mighty Kalpaks, or fur caps, which they wear in the hottest 

weather. They were escorted by Ahmed Bey, then Consul 

General for Persia. South of these I\tood the fine pavilions of the 

Pasha-commanding, and the Treasurer; whilst farther to the 

south the Ohar'su, or bazar, formed a long, wide street, extending 

from east to west, with stalls in the centre for eatables. Hero 

were exposed for Bale large heterogeneous supplies, embmcing 

even composition candles, gold watches, cooking pots, ardent 

spirits, and barter with the Bedawin. This formed the "fair of 

Mazarib." This hazar is struck the day after the caravan 

marches southwards, and escorted by the regulars, who no longer 

accompany the Haj, it returns to Damascus through the usual 

stations. It was guarded by.the Nizams, who have during these 

few days uncommonly severe work, 80 out of 419 being always 

upon sentinel and patrol duty. At Mazarib we called upon all 

the authorities, including Mohammed Bey el YusuC, the Governor 

of the Hauran, who was lodged in the castle with rheumatic 

fever, brought on by his exertions. Our reception was more than 

cordial. The Mahmal was before the Pasha's tent, also a light 

wooden cross to hang lamps upon, and cressets were also hung 

before it. 

The first gun sounded at 10.30 a.m., when the tents were 

struck, and the greater part of the caravan began its march. The 

second fired at noon, and sawall en route for Ramthal, the fourth 

station on the Mecca road, and distant twenty-four marches from 

EI Medinah. Thence the country is of limestone and chalky formation, 

a great relief to the eye after the gloomy basaltic plains, 

ruins, and villages of the ancient Bashan. This day there was no 

attempt at regular formation. The mob of footmen and horsemen, 

armed and unarmed; of pilgrims, soldiers, and merchants, and 

dervishes, jostling each other; and the riders of asses, dromedaries, 

and mules and camels laden with huge Sahharehs, like seamen's 

chests, with treasure and ammunition, with grain and straw;

Descr·iption of the Ha;·, ana. what' we Saw. 71 

litters or various shapes; the Tahktarawan flashing in the SUD, 

with gilding, and brass. work, and mirrors and scarlet housings; 

and the Maharehs, some shaped like a small tent, others like two 

sedan chairs, each with its own barrel roof; whilst the jingling of 

brass bells in tiers. of three and four clashed aloud above the hum 

of the mixed multitude-the blessings exchanged betweeen the 

religious, and the fiery invectives of the Bedawin drivers-all 

combined to produce a.scene unique in this world. 

The marshalling' of the caravan is made at the halt as well 88 

on the march, and no one is. allowed' to change the place at first 

assigned to him, out they will be, joined by stragglers from all 

parts of the Hauran and elsewhere. 

This was the order of the present ,:ear, and I suppose the 

usual one:- 

RAB EL HAJ, 

(Head of the Caravan.) 

1. Chief Delit, or guide-Hadji Mohammed, 

2. Jubbeh Khanah, or artillery, two brass guns, and one chamber for 

salutes, with a dozen trunks containing cartridges. 

3. The tents of the officials, pilgrims, soldiers, merchants, and campfollowers. 

4.. The Bazar. 

5. The Sunni Pilgrims. 

6. The litter of the Pasha-commanding, who during the· day rides his 

Rahwim, or ambling nag, with the Agayl Bedawin in the rear. 

7. A troop of irregular cavalry. 

8. The Mahmal. 

9. The litter of the Treasurer, who has the twenty-four boxes of speeie, 

10. A t4000nd troop of cavalry. 

11. The Shieh and Persian pilgrims. 

12. The Dindar, or Agayl, dromedary riders, bringing up-the rear. 

The caravan is also flanked on both sides by a line of irregular 

horsemen in Indian file, and when camped these men do sentinel's 

work in small outlying tents. About fifty of these arc called 

Kalecbjes, or castlemen, because they form, 88 it were, a wall 

around the camp. 

At Mazarib there were two days of rain and discomfort. 

lVhen they reach Ma'an, the eleventh station, they will hope for 

wet weather. Even at Ramthal, distant fifteen hours' ride to tho


south, there were mosquitoes and yellow locusts. It is a peculiar 

year, Friday and the Arafat day coincide, and there is a superstition 

that when this happens there will be misfortune, and that 

they will suffer from plagues or famine, enemies, hunger or thirst; 

and-this year it will be thirst, and hygienic precautions ought to 

be taken. 

At dawn on the 20th of January we bade a formal adieu to the 

chief authorities in the caravan, in the uauai phrases used on such 

occasions, .and no little merriment was caused by the whitebearded 

guide mistaking my husband for the Pasha-commanding. 

And when the mistake was explained they only laughed and said, 

"Why don't you come along again with us to Mecca, 88 you did 

before." He was looked upon by all as a friend to the Moslem, 

and consequently to the Sultan, and no opposition would have 

been made to him had he also made another pilgrimage to the 

jealously-guarded Haramayn, or the Holy Cities of the Moslems. 

NOTB.-I sent thisacoount to the Editor of the Timu in January, 1870, but it waa 

Hopped on the road, and never reached Printing-House Square.

( 73 ) 

CHAPTER VII. 

A DAY'B SHOPPING IN TIlE DAZARS. 

AFTER a long residence in Damascus, I always say to my friends, 

" If you have two or three days to spare, follow the guide books ; 

but if you are pressed for time come with me, and you shall see 

what you will best like to remember, and you shall buy the things 

that are the most curious. We will make our purchases first, 

visiting on the way everything of interest. 'Ve will ride our 

white donkeys with their gaudy trappings, firstly, because tho 

horses slip over the stones, and secondly, because, just as you arc 

examining an abba.or an izar, my horses will probably lash their 

heels into the middle of the stall, and playfully send everything 

fiying; perhaps they may pick up a child in their mouths, and 

give it 8 shake for pure fun, or, as we move along in the crowd, 

devour an old man's tray of cabbages from the top of his head. 

It is a state of funny familiarity into which all my animals grow 

in 8 very short time-amusing, but sometimes tiresome. 'Vhilst 

our donkeys are preparing, let us go and sit for a little while in a 

myrtle wood in Abu Dib's garden, next to my house, and which 

is just as open to me as if it were my own, It gives 8 delightful 

shade, and will be 8 refuge from the heat and SUD until we are 

obliged to face them. The cool stream is very pleasant as it 

gurgles by. 

Do you hear that strange noise like a rustling in the air, and 

the shouts of the people? and do you see how darkness comes on? 

Do not· be frightened, it is a flight of locusts coming. In ten 

minutes they will be here. Down they fall like a hail storm. It 

is very unpleasant to be covered with them; they will not bite 118,

A Day's Skoppi·ng in tlte Basars. 75 

'Ve will nowinspect the marqueterie bezar, where weshall find 

several pretty things inlaid with choice woods, mother-of-pearl, or 

steel; the former are the best, if finely worked. These are the 

large chests which form part of the bride's trousseau. Those ready 

made are generally coarse, but you can order a beautifully fine 

and very large one for about five napoleons. There are tables, 

and the clogs used by the harim in marble courts. You will likewise 

find toilette hand-glasses,but they are far better at Jerusalem 

or Bethlehem. Now we will go to the smithy-like gold and 

silver bazar, where they sit round in little pens, hammering at 

their anvils. Each seems to have a strong-box for his treasures. 

All this is the greatest possible rubbish for a European to wear, 

but you will pick up many barbarous and antique ornaments, real 

gold and real stones, though unattractive. Yon may buy all sorts 

of spangling things as ornaments for your horse; you will find 

very beautiful Zans, or filigree coffee-cup-holders; you may order, 

on seeing the pattern, some very pretty raki cups of silver, inlaid 

with gold, very minute, with a gold or silver fish trembling on a 

spring, 88 if swimming in the liqueur. 

Whilst we are here, I will take you up a ladder on to the roof, 

Dot to lose time. The men will give me the key of the door for 8, 

little bakshfsh. By this way we shall reach the southern side of 

the great mosque, and after scrambling over several roofs, and 

venturing 8, few awkward jumps, we shall arrive at the top of a 

richly ornamented triple gateway; it is outside the mosque, and 

hardly peers above the mud and debris and bazar roofs, which 

cover up what is not already buried. Over the central arch is 8, 

ClOSS, and Greek inscription: "Thy kingdom, 0 Christ! is an everlasting 

kingdom, and thy dominion endureth throughout all 

generations." It is a serious reflection that this bit of trnth 

should have remained upon a mosque, perhaps for 1762 years. 

It doubtless belonged to the stupendous Temple of the Sun, 

befitting the capital. After the birth of our Saviour it became a 

Christian Cathedral, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, whose 

bead is said to lie under a little railed off cupola'd tomb, and 

is still venerated by the l\loslems. The Christian Cathedral was 

divided at the conquest between Christians and ?tIoslems, but it 

has long since become wholly and exclusively l\108lem. Yet this

.A Day's 81wpping in the Basars. 77 

like 8 native. It covers all, except your face, from head to foot, 

like a shroud. It is pure silk, and you can chooseyour own colours; 

they are mostly brilliant; but I care only for black. Some are 

worked beautifully in gold. If you wish to pass for a Christian, 

you may expose your face, or wear an apology for a covering; 

but as Moslemahs we must buy mandils, white handkerchiefs, or 

coloured, with flowers and figures 80 thickly laid on that no ono 

can recognize our features. If you have one of the black and 

gold or coloured izars, you will be a great personage. If you 

want to pass unobtrusively, you must wear a plain white linen 

sheet, with a thick mandil, and in that costume you might walk all 

day with your own father and not be known except by the voice. 

'Ve will now have our donkeys saddled with ordinary Dative 

saddles and trappings, and ride. You need not be ashamed of 

appearing en cavalier, for the Syrian women know no other way 

of riding. There are only three of us here who really do ride, 

and we attract immense attention by our funny seats. The people 

gape, and wonder how we manage "to hang on that peg," and 

they are satisfied, until our horses have done something unusual, 

that we shall fall oft Think that nobody knows you are 0, 

European in this dress. I remind you of this, because I remember 

how ashamed and miserable I felt the first time I dressed and 

rode like a native, forgetting that I looked like tho myriads of 

white, ghost-like looking women who passed us. 

I will also recommend you to invest in an embroidered jacket 

(damr), of gold-embroidered cloth, with long flying open sleeves, to 

be worn over a white muslin bodice; it will be very effective in 

red, blue, or black. You must Dot forget to buy a few puro 

silk towels; they are very pleasunt-likewiso an embroidered 

towel or two, worked with gold. The latter is slung over tho 

shoulder of the servant who hands you the sherbet, and you wipe 

)"our mouth with it. 

In 8 broad street outside the saddlers' bazar are all the brass 

carvers. You will see in most shops, plates, pans, chargers, and 

basins covered with Arabesque ornaments, and carved with ancient 

inscriptions. Some are 700 or 800 years old, and bear the names 

or kings or famous personages. Figures, such as the lion and tho 

SUD, or the spies of the Promised Land bearing on II pole bunches

.A Day', Shopping in the Basore. 79 

milk must be mixed till it becomes a thin gruel, then strain it 

into the rest, and throwaway the dregs. Cover up your bowl 

with flannel or blanket, in a warm place, and leave it to stand all 

night; next morning it will be cold, thick, and sour. To continue 

it, you must take a cup full of it, boil some milk, and when lukewarm 

mix the old Leben with a little milk, pour it in and stir it, 

and leave it to stand as usual; do this every day. In England 

I should use rennet instead of leaven. You may not succeed in 

getting Leben the first four or five times, but when you do you can 

always make the new with a cup-full of the sour. The other dish, 

the salad, is made by chopping garlic, thyme, mint, water-cress, 

-sage, or any other sweet herbs, putting in a piece of salt about the 

size of a nut, mixing it all, and then burying the whole in leben, . 

sprinkling the top with chopped herbs; then dip your bread in it, 

and eat. 

What is that brown powder? 

No; it is not snuff. That is henna; it is mixed with Iimejuice, 

spices, burnt nuts, and other things, and it stains the hands, 

feet, and finger nails. Brides, and especially Moslem brides, are 

ornamented with moons, and all sorts of devices in henna. They 

will dye a pet lamb. My servants stain, for ornament, my white 

donkey and my white Persian cat, but it is mostly used for the 

human hair. Mix about two teaspoonfuls with half a small teacup-full 

of water, boil it till it bubbles, and take it off once or 

twice as soon as ebullition begins; strain it through a coarse 

muslin, and drop it into the water with which you wash your hair; 

or you may comb it through your hair: it cleans and strengthens 

it, and makes it glossy and bright. There is black henna from 

Baghdad, and red from Mecca. The former is the powdered leaf 

of indigo. 

That dish of what you think are lumps of mud or clay is 

incense. You see it is arranged in heaps and in various sections. 

There are many different qualities. That black-looking stuff is 

very dear-a sovereign would not buy you much. It has a 

delicious aroma, and realizes the idea of "all the perfumes of 

Araby the blest." That small, gummy looking quality is cheap 

enough-you can buy a great deal for a few piastres. The best 

comes from Somali-land, and all the country round about


Guardafui; it is imported by the Arabs to Jeddah, thence to 

Mecca,and the Haj, or Meccan pilgrimage caravan, brings it here. 

This reminds me that I have not yet taken you to the pipe 

and narghfleh hazar. The incense is somewhat connected with 

them. The usual use, however, is to take your brass incenseburner, 

put into it a little live braise, and drop a lump or two of 

this incense upon it. When you receive a visitor in Oriental 

fashion, a servant precedes her into the house, 80 that coming out 

of the fresh air she may find nothing but what is agreeable. But 

by no means the worst use is to take 8 small speck of the very 

best incense, and place it on your narghileh, or chibouque ; it 

would not answer with 8 cigar, this sprinkling meat with sugar or 

eau de cologne. All my European visitors wonder why my narghilehs 

are 80 much better than others, and I feel sure that the 

reason is a little trick of this kind. I am very fond of Oriental 

luxury. Most people leave it behind, but 88 far 88 narghilehs, 

coffee, incense, and divan goes, I shall always take mine with me. 

Now we come to the pipe and narghileh bazar, Firstly, wewill 

look for someamber mouthpieces. We shall see thousands of fantastic 

shapes and different aorts, and if we do not suit ourselves in 

the bazar, we shall at Shaykh Bander's, This worthy will try to sell 

his worst at his best price, but let me choose for you. We will 

make one up. Firstly, I will take the stick of the mouthpiece, 

and will choose three or four fantastic-shaped lumps and knobs of 

the purest lemon-coloured gum, without streaks or flaws. I will 

then separate the first and second pieces by a gaudily enamelled 

Persian ring-if you were a Rothschild I should prefer a hoop 

of diamonds. The third and fourth pieces we will divide 'by 

a cylinder of black amber, two inches long, with inlaid gold 

figures. 'Vhen we have fastened these all upon this little stick, 

you will have a mouthpiece twelve inches long, and fit for Hanin 

el Rashid, had he smoked. The next thing is to look for a good 

straight pipe-stick, about twoyards long. Jessamine and myrtle are 

the best, cherry is the common use, and the green stick of the rose 

is not in the market. A good Moslem will not smoke the latter, 

because it is one of the trees of Paradiso. l\Ioreover, it is troublesome, 

and you must have fresh ones-the old are fit only for 

burning. You can have an assortmeut of earthenware bowls,

A Day's Slwpping in tI,e Basar». 81 

adorned with gilt figures. I will also have some fancy things 

made for you in the potteries above our house. My husband's 

held nearly an ounce of tobacco, to the wonder and astonishment 

of the natives, who suggested small flower-pots. 

Now we reach the narghileh stalls. Firstly we choose a shishah, 

a prettily carved and fanciful looking water-bottle, of graceful 

shape, and a saucer or tray of the same material for it to stand 

OD. In another stall we find the Bas, or head: you may be as 

fanciful or as simple as you please in your narghilehs, You may 

have one for fifteen francs, or one for £50 sterling. The Ras-supposing 

it to be of brass and pink china-looks almost like a little 

Chinese pagoda, or 8 series of cups and balls, terminating.in a 

metal cup, to hold the tombak; it is hung also with bells and 

dangling things, in fact, with any fantasia you may choose. In 

another part of the hazar you choose the narbfsh, or tube made of 

kid-skin, and twined around with gilt wire. One end of this 

snake fastens into the side of the Bas, and the other is a wooden 

mouthpiece, through which you draw 88 if you were discussing a 

sherry cobbler. I always use wooden mouthpieces, as they retain 

a single drop of ottar, or any other perfume, and they are always 

clean; many, however, prefer metal. If you are going to travel, I 

recommend to you the short, common, strong, plain red narbish, 

For the house and for guests, you must have the gaudiest, several 

yards in length: the longer the narbfsh the higher your rank, and 

the greater compliment you pay your guest. I always order mine 

to be of dark chocolate colour and gold, and measuring from four 

to six yards. It is not safe to have less than twelve narghilehs in 

your house. Preserve one for your own smoking, and 8 silver 

mouthpiece in your pocket for visiting. Keep 8 dozen for guests, 

and 8 servant on purpose to look after them, and to clean them 

every day. Constantly change your narbishes, and also have two or 

three in the kitchen for your servants, and your servants' friends, 

to save your own. 

I must explain to you how to.use these things, or you will buy 

them to no purpose. Firstly, you wash out your glass with a 

brush like that used to clean lamp chimneys, and fill your bottle 

three-quarters full of either plain water, or you may drop some 

perfume (rose-water, for instance) into the water. For fantasia 

o


Women who dislike, or affect to dislike, smoke, because 

they think it is the correct thing, can have no idea how they 

drive their husbands away. from home. If a man may not 

smoke in his own house he will smoke in some other house, in 

preference to a lonely puff in the street: ...and that is worth a 

thought. 

Allow me to end this long tirade about smoking with the 

charming old French sonnet:- 

"Donx charme de rna solitude, 

Fumante pipe, ardente fourneau, 

Qui purge d'humeur mon cerveau, 

Et mon esprit d'inquietude, 

c'Tabac dont mon Arne est ravie, 

Lorsque je te vois perdre en l'air, 

Aussi promptement qu'un eclair, 

J e vois l'image de ma vie. 

"'Je remets dans mon souvenir, 

Ce qu'un jour je dois devenir, 

N'etant qu'une cendre animee. 

"Et tout d'un coup je m'apereois, 

Que courant apres ta fumee, 

Je me perds aussi bien que toi." 

I think you would regret missing the roof of the book 

hazar) which leads to the west gate of the Mosque. On its left is 

a curious flight of steps through private houses. Arriving at the 

head of these stairs you can see four massive columns in a line, 

and at each end a square pier of masonry with a semi-column on 

the inner side. The shafts alone are visible from the bazar, as the 

capitals rise over the domed roof. The people will not mind our 

scrambling over their roofs, as we are "harim," and then we can 

examine both capitals and superstructure. Thbse pillars formerly 

formed part of the magnificent pagan temple, which must have 

extended some 600 yards square, for there are columns here and 

there in situ, all in four straight lines. They are unnoticed, 

Because the hazara, houses, and mud walls cling to them like 

wasps' nests. They support a rich and beautiful arch, of which 

only a fmgment remains above the roofs; but if you examine this

A Day's Slloppi·ng i'n tlUJ Bazars. 85 

remnant you will say that it is one of the finest of ancient art 

in Syria. This noble gateway must have been at least 80 feet 

long and 70 feet high. 

Now we will come down, and in the first friend's house I pass 

we will borrow iz8rs and veils, so 88 not to be known, and get 

a Moslem woman to accompany us, and to speak for us. I want to 

show you something to amuse you, and jj they know what we'are 

we shall see nothing. We will go to an old Shaykh who sells 

charms, spells, and potions. You see his reception place is full of 

women with their faces well veiled, I will not speak to anyone 

but our Moslem friend, and that in a whisper. Not long· ago 

a native said to me, "-Would you like A to hate B.?" speaking of a 

bad man who had a very evil influence oyer a good, honest man. 

Without thinking, I replied, "Yes; it would be the best thing 

that ever happened." He only ans.wered me by a gesture of the 

hand, which literally means," leave it to me." . The next day 

be secured a bit of the badman's hair, and sewed it into.the coat of 

the good man. Strange enough, as chance fell out, that day 

an event happened which opened the eyes of the latter to his 

friend's character, and they parted company; of course nothing 

would persuade the native that it was not the effect of his charm. 

The ingredients. they use are wonderful The hair of a pig, the 

tooth of a monkey, the poison of a snake, and goodness only 

knows what else. That young-looking woman, and I know her 

by her Yoioe, is.asking for a drug to.make her husband love her. 

That other, with the dark mandfl, wants something to make 

her spouse hate all his other wives. That client, who is aged 

enough to be our grandmother, pays the Shaykh to write her a 

paper that she may become the happy mother of a son. You 

cannot imagine the intrigues which are hatched here, and the 

extraordinary charms and spells that are manufactured and 

given, the honest faith whioh the people have ill tl.em, and 

how readily they pay. I must pretend to want a charm, or else 

we have no business here, and may be 8uspeoted of being spies. 

I will therefore ask for a paper, through the interpreter, to make 

my husband put away his fourth wife, of whom I will feign to be 

jealous. My.case is to be dealt with by an old crone who is 

partially mad. Sho makes me put money in a basin of water, and

88 The Inlier Life of By'ria. 

The groom came to me one day, and asked if that was an English 

coffee mill. 

"No," I said; "why do you ask?" 

"Because I thought, 0 lady! that if those were the cups, this 

must be the coffee-grinder to fit them." 

As coffee was made an unkind use of in our nursery, I grew up 

to the age of twenty-two without tasting it, and did not even 

know what it was like, unadulterated. I was once twenty-four 

hours on a journey without even a crumb of bread or a drop of 

water, and at the end of that time a kind soul brought me a cup, 

with a little cognac in it. I thought it was the most delicious 

thing I had ever tasted: it broke the ice, and I have liked it 

ever since. I could not, however, drink English coffee which 

is bought ready ground, and mixed with all sorts of things, and 

kept perhaps a week in a paper; two teaspoonfuls to a pint of 

water finally boiled, instead of a table-spoonful to six doll's cups! 

I see the sweetmeat coming, and I am going to bid low. 

When I have collected upon the floor a heap of things you want 

to buy, I will say, " How much for that heap, 0 Shaykh ?" He 

will ask a fabulous price, and swear that under Allah's protection 

he is losing an enormous sum to gain my friendship, and 

the patronage of my friends. That suit of armour he recently 

refused to my cousin Lord B-for £100 sterling; he repented 

when it was too late, and has never had a higher bid than £30. 

Don't fancy that those are Damascus blades, or that that one 

belonged to Hartin el Rashid; there is not a Damascus blade left 

in the city, at least for sale. They come from Sheffield, Doncaster, 

Berlin, and Munich, and are set up in antique handles and 

sheaths. 

You see there is every kind of brio-a-brac. Persian enamel, 

coffee-cups, jewellery, bits of jade, eastern inkstands, incense 

burners, rose-water stoups, brass trays, china, and what not. Those 

little bottles of silver, with crescents and chains, contain the kohl 

for the toilette. It is finely powdered antimony, and is put into 

these little bottles. They take a long pin, bodkin, or stick of 

silver or ivory, wet it if much is to be put on, dip into this 

powder, close the eyelids upon it, and draw it through from end 

to end. For an instant the eye is IDled with the powder, smarts

90 T1UJ Juner Life of Syria. 

a visit to Abu Antika, and on seeing the treasures he went 

quite beside himself. He suddenly looked up from choosing 

items, and asked how much he would take for the whole room 

full, offering at the same time 15,000 francs. The Shaykh was 

struck almost dumb with joy; but seeing the Italian 80 excited, 

he was "too clever by half" as they say, and thought that he could 

get morc; 80 showing no emotion, he replied- 

" Not so, khawaja (mister); but I will take 20,000." 

So they parted. The Italian come to the hotel, and raved up 

and down the room, saying to a friend, " Do you think the Shaykh 

will relent and take my offer?" and he was very nearly running 

back to offer the 20,000. "Yes," said his friend, who had Iived 

at Damascus for some time; "he will come, but not till he has 

removed all the most valuable things into the harim, which you 

will never miss nor remember." The Italian was cured, and 

thanked his friend. Abu AntI'ka went to his harim, and 

raved as the Count had done, occasionally lifting up his turban 

to cool his head, and exclaiming- 

"15,000 francs! why I could start doubly and trebly again 

with that. 'Vhat a fool I have been! I wonder if I am too late, if 

that mad Frank will be gone. If Allah only protects me through 

this act of avarice, I will be an honester man for the future." 

Accordingly, Abu Antika appeared and said, "0 Dowlatak 

(your Highness), I have been considering the matter, and in my 

anxiety that your Highness should go away satisfied from Esh 

Sham, and pleased with your humble servant, I have resolved to 

forego the 5,000 francs, and to content myself with the poor little 

sum of 15,000 francs, though the goods are worth double the 

money, and I must begin life all over again." The Count 

replied- 

"I am very sorry, 0 Shaykh! that thou hast had this trouble. 

The sight of the things drove me mad, but the fever that I had 

to possess them when I offered thee the 15,000 francs has passed 

a\vay, and I now see how rash I was to do so. I would rather 

have my money, were they worth double the sum." AbU. 

Antfka has been mentally tearing-not his hair, because he is 

shaved, but his beard, ever since that affair, still it has not cured 

him.

A Day's Blwp])in,g ill, the Bazars; 91 

Now you see he has returned quite coolly, and offers us more 

sweetmeat as a peace offering. 'Ve will now go up 50 francs at 

every mouthful, because it is near sunset; we have three quarters 

of an hour's ride to Salahiyyeh, and the gates will be shut. If yo.u 

give me carte blanche, I will stop at 500 francs. I have made a 

mental calculation whilst I have been talking. They will be 

well paid for at 460 francs, and 500 will give him something over. 

He will have every reason to be satisfied, and so will you, for they 

are really worth the money, and in Europe they would fetch a 

much higher price-at the same time, none but English would 

give him that sum here, and their travelling dragoman would 

cheat him of half of it. So now I have told him, and also that 

we wish him a cordial good day, and blessings upon his house. 

""e will mount our donkeys, leaving a Kawwass to pick up the 

goods and load a boy with them; the Shaykh attends us to 

his gate, swearing that we have ruined his prospects for ever. 

You ask me if it is always necessary to go out with 80 much 

state, with one or more Kawwasses, and I must answer this-it is 

necessary, unless you go out in native dress, veiled. I mean, of 

course, at this side of the Lebanon. I thought the honours of my 

position, never being allowed out without an escort, a very great 

bore at first. It used to distress me to be made 80 much fuss 

with, and to have the road cleared for me as if I were a sacred 

object. I used to beg of the Kawwasses not to show their zeal by 

doing more than was needful for the customs of the country and 

the honour of the Consulate; but after I saw one group get a 

pail of dirty water thrown over them with insolent gestures, after 

hearing of a minister's wife being kissed in the bazar, and a 

clergyman's wife being struck by a soldier because her dress 

touched him en passant, rendering him unclean, I learnt that 

my meekness was quite misplaced, and that it takes some time to 

know how to behave in a manner which will gain respect in the 

East, which is the very opposite of that in the 'Vest. 'Vhat 

would be considered conciliating, high-minded, delicate, and wellbred 

in certain cases, would here be only mistaken for cowardice, 

meanness, and half-wittedness. The person who is most loved 

and respected per Be in the East, man or woman, is who is most 

brave, most just, most strict with them, most. generous with

92 The [nller Life of Syria. 

money, and whom they cannot deceive with little intrigues. To 

punish an Eastern you have but two holds over him: to hurt 

his person or his pocket; but he much prefers the former. Hence 

it is that frequently an official sent out from England, without 

any previous knowledge of the East, a gentlemanly, quiet man, 

who would have been a great success in Paris or Berlin, ,isdespised 

beyond measure in the East. 

I dare say you feel quite tired. We will go home, and you 

shall go to your room and wash your hands for dinner at once; 

I will go round to the stables and see that the animals are all 

right, and be with you in ten minutes.

( 93 ) 

CHAPTER VIII. 

8ALAHIYTEH-BREAKFAST ON JEBEL KAYSUN, AND FAMILIAR 

CONVERSATION ABOUT SYRIA. 

I All glad we have such splendid weather, for I have planned out 

a charming day. We will now have some tea and bread and 

butter, and a little fruit; but we will breakfast out. Do you see 

the sand-coloured mountain which rises like &. huge wall at the 

back of the house? This is. Jebel Kaysun, and we will go up it. 

That little Wely in ruins at the top is called Kubbet en Nasr 

(dome of victory). The view from it is less fascinating, and not 

more extended; the objects are too indistinct, on account of the 

height. You may see two other white buildings like deserted 

convents-one lies & quarter of the way up, the other a third 

higher. I will send on Haji Ahmad'with the basket. Old as he 

is he climbs like a goat, and he will be there in half-an-hour. 

"1e will mount our donkeys, and ride up till they begin to lose 

breath, then we will dismount, turn them loose under the shade 

of 8 big rock, and scramble up the rest. As we go along I will 

say something about Haji Ahmad. He is a Moslem relic of the 

British Consulate, and we all pass him from one to another. He 

is the honestest, simplest, devoutest old man you can imagine. 

I never can keep him quiet. His great delight is to go down to 

market, and to forget the bread, that he may run back for it. He 

likes to visit the town about six times a day. His leisure hours 

are spent in buying and selling old china. His youth and his 

elasticity are his pride. He was ill once after cutting his leg 

very badly, and I had almost to tie him up to keep him from 

working. How touched he was because I nursed him! 'Vhcthcr

94 The Inner Life of s!Jria.. 

I gave him medicine, or arranged his bed, or washed and dressed 

his wounds, his turban was always aloft in the air thanking 

God. He is worth taking care of. Do you know what he did 

in the massacres of 1860? He saved and secretly fed as many 

Christians as he could, when they were being slaughtered like 

sheep, and had to hide and starve. Once he stood between 

them and the scimitar, and was badly wounded by his own people 

in defending them. Yet there lives no better Moslem than he 

is-always at prayer and fasting, and observing the orders of his 

religion. 

The village of Salahfyyeh has not much to show; it is large, 

and taken as a whole, picturesque; we are now upon the roots of 

the mountain, which are sandy, stony, and barren-you see the 

steep, rugged ascent before us. There are the two buildings, 

most interesting tombs, whose whiteness shows well against the 

sandy-coloured walls. We first come to the burial ground, which, 

though on its roots, extends nearly the whole length of the 

Salahfyyeh, and separates the village and the mountain. How 

many stories the Arabs have told me concerning the Jinn 

(Jinan), who inhabit the caves and holes in these mountain roots. 

They describe them as little men and women, about two feet 

high, and very strong. They themselves would not dare come out 

here at night, for fear of ghostly malice, and thought me a terrible 

" kafireh " when I laughed at them. .1 did come out once alone 

at dusk, to set free a wild gazelle which a French hunter had 

trapped, for I knew that if I let her go by daylight they would 

catch her again, as she was slightly wounded by her struggles. 

I saw no Jinn; in fact, nothing but jackals, and they ran away. 

After the arrival of the Haj from Mecca, all the camels are turned 

out here to rest, and gmze on certain roots in the sand, which, being 

the same colour as the rock, we do not see, and so we fancy they 

are "gratefully eating gravel." At certain seasons, I am told, 

the he-camel fasts forty days and nights, and they Say, "he 

is keeping Ramasan," He is then so vicious that when the 

dehils (dromedaries) are turned out to graze, loose like a flock 

of sheep, he requires a keeper. 

Some animals wear their red, gaudy trappings; these camels, 

with their Bedawin keepers lying near them, and sometimes a few

96 The Inner Life of Svria. 

along the dripping rock, which feels oily and greasy. We will 

now affix our seals amongst those of the many Shaykhs and 

True Believers which dot the wall. Now we will examine the old 

monastery, where Haji Ahmad and I will spread the breakfast. I 

believe this to have been the refectory. From one of the large 

old ruined windows, where you will be sheltered from the SUD, we 

will gaze upon the sweetest of scenes. Then I will talk to you 

about Syria till the SUD is cool enough to go down. Four 

Moslems have come up to pray. Twq are Mogharibeh, quite ready 

for a consideration, to cast our horoscopes. Meanwhile I will do 

my best to describe the view beneath you, first reading you a page 

from "Mark Twain," which alone does it justice:- 

"As the glare of day mellowed into twilight, we looked down upon a 

picture which is celebrated all over the world. When Mahomet reached 

this point, and looked down upon Damascus for the first time, he said, 

'Man could only enter oae paradise; he preferred to go to the one above.' 

So he sat down then, and feasted his eyes upon the earthly paradise of 

Damascus, and then went away Mthout entering its gates. Damascus is 

beautiful from the mountain. It is beautiful even to foreigners accustomed 

to luxuriant vegetation, and I can easily understand how unspeakably 

beautiful it must be to eyes that are only used to the God-forsaken barrenness 

and desolation of Syria. I should think a Syrian would go wild with 

ecstasy when such a picture bursts upon him for the first time. 

" From his high perch one sees before him and below him a wall of 

dreary mountain, shorn of vegetation, glaring fiercely in the sun; it fences 

in a level desert of sand, smooth as velvet, and threaded far away with fine 

lines that stand for roads, [1] and dotted with creeping mites we know are 

camel trains and journeying men; right in the midst of the desert is spread 

a billowy expanse of green foliage, and nestling in its heart sits the great 

white city, like an island of pearls and opals gleaming out of a sea of 

emeralds. This is the picture you see spread far below you, with distance 

to soften it, the sun to glorify it, strong contrasts to heighten the effects, 

and over it and about it a drowsing air of repose to spiritualize it, and 

make it seem rather a beautiful stray from the mysterious worlds we visit 

in dreams, than a substantial tenant of our dull, C9&r8e globe. And when 

you think of the leagues of blighted, blasted, sandy, rocky, sunburnt, ugly, 

infamous, dreary country you have ridden over to get here, you think it is 

the most beautiful picture that ever human eyes rested upon in all the 

broad universe. With her forest of foliage, and her abundance of water, 

Damascus must be a wonder of wonders to the Bedouin from the deserts.

Balahlyye1lr-BreakJast on Jebel KayBun, ContJerBation. 97 

DamascUs is simply an oasis-that is what it is. For four thousand years 

ita waten have not gone dry, or its fertility failed. Now we can understand 

why the city has existed 80 long. It could not die. So long as its 

waten remain to it, away out there in the midst of that howling desert, 

80 long will Damascus live to bless tile sight of the tired and thirsty 

.wayfarer." 

I will now enter into plainer details; but confess the truth, Is 

not this the only spot which realizes the idea of the conversion of 

St. Paul, when he says, "and the greatness of that light he can comprehend 

who has seen a Syrian SUD striving in his strength," and 

who reads that the light that shone about Paul and his companions 

was above the brightness of the SUD? Here is the same cloudless 

sky, the same fierce SUD raining fire on our heads. Yet, coming 

in the way Paul did, we should have this mountain and Hermon 

on the left, the Anti-Lebanon running eastward, and the rounded 

top of Jebel Tinfyeh rising in the midst of it. 

Some say that the plain of Damascus is triangular-shaped, 

others find it round; for my part I cannot assign to it any intelligible 

shape. As we stand on Jebel KaysUn, it seems to spread 

boundlessly in all directions, till the eye is interrupted by low 

rolling hills, or else rests on the horizon. It includes part of the 

WOOy el Ajam (valley of the Persians), outside the Damascus oasis, 

to the south, which is watered by the Awaj (Pharpar) flowing between 

Jebel el Aswad, and Jebel Mani'a. The plain immediately 

about Damascus is divided into the Ghutah and the Metj; the 

Ghutah lies about the city, and the Metj to the east, between the 

cultivation and the lakes or swamps. The verdure round Damascus 

embowers almost seventy villages, and contains, independent of the 

city, about 60,000souls. Closeto our right hand, and beneath us, the 

Barada rushes from the mountains through its wild gorge. You 

can hear it, and you can see it flows from west to east, irrigating 

the whole oasis. It then empties itself into a lake, which you 

cannot Bee, for it is about twenty miles distant. There is no outlet, 

but the evaporation is 80 great that you will see them almost as 

dry as a plate. Our poor friend Dr. Beke held that Harran el 

Awamid, on the west borders of the Bahrat el Kibliyyeh (southern 

tank), is the Mesopotamian Hanan, where dwelt Laban, and where 

.Jacob married his two wives. 

B

]02 .The IAner Life of Syria. 

already seventeen divisions. Then the Druzes (about 100,000) 

are divided into Akk&l and JuhluU. Their belief is a mystery, 

but their policy is the national religion. The Christians pretend 

that they worship the calf, and declare (falsely) that they can 

always "get a rise" out of a Druze by cursing the" Ijl " (bull). 

The Jews are said to exceed 40,000. They are divided into 

Sephardim, a few Askenazim, fewer Samaritans, and fewest 

Karaites. The Christians number about fourteen sects, seven of 

Catholio and seven anti-Catholic-they all hate one another like 

poison, to the great amusement of the seventeen sects of Moslems, 

who do likewise. 

The Catholics and orthodox or anti-Catholics, according to us 

sohismatio, are- 

CATHOLIC, ANTI-eATHOLIC. . 

1. Chaldean Chaldean. 

2. Armenian Armenian. 

iJ. Greek Greek. 

4. Papal Catholics Presbyterians. 

5. Syrian Jacobite or Nestorian. 

6. Latin Catholics Copt. 

7. Maronites of the Lebanon Abyssinian. 

'Vhat keeps these parties divided is partly the language of the 

ritual, but much more the necessity of each having its own bishop. 

Each dignitary is a political power, who looks after the temporal 

interests of his subjects; he keeps Kawwasses; he is recognized by 

Government, and he has a voice in all public as well as private 

business. 

The Maronites of the Lebanon and the Greek Orthodox are 

the only two really powerful Christian seots: firstly, because they 

are fighting races, rich, and well protected by Russia and France; 

secondly, on account of their superiority in numbers. 

'!'he Maronite Catholics (200,000) are under their Patriarch, 

who governs them religiously, without reference to Rome. They 

acknowledge the supremacy of the Pope, but it is 80 arranged by 

his desire, as government in the Lebanon requires prompt action 

and an unfettered command. They ownin the Lebanon 82 convents, 

2000 monks and nuns, and a revenue of about £iO,OOO a year. 

The Greek Orthodox (about 150,000) have one Patriarch at

8alahiyyelt-Breakfast on Jebel Kaysun, Oonversation. 103 

Jerusalem, and a second at Damascus, who also administers 

Antioch. They count sixteen bishops, and their monasteries are 

everywhere. 

The Patriarch of the Armenians (20,000) resides at Damascus, 

The Papal and Latin Catholics, between whom I see no difference, 

although here they class them under two heads, must simply 

mean foreign and native, and number about 80,000. 

The Presbyterians are a mere handful at the missions and the 

schools of Prussia, England, and the United States. There is one 

wandering representative of the Church of England; the others 

are either Lutherans or Presbyterians. 

Eaeh of the seven Catholic sects owns a liturgy different from 

the Latin Catholic mass, and said in their own language. They 

communicate under both kinds, out thero is no heresy in their 

belief. A French or Eng-lish Catholic satisfies his religious 

obligation by hearing mass on Sunday with them, out he cannot 

receive their Communion; he must go for that purpose either to 

the Terra Santa (Spanish) or to the Lazarists (French). At both 

these latter, mass is said in Latin, and Communion is received 

under our form, that of the Sacred Host. 

Our church dignitaries in Damascus are, the venerable and 

gentlemanly Greek Orthodox Patriarc-h; the Armenian Patriarch, 

who is, however, often absent, and represented by Padre 

l\Iusa; the fine old Jacobite Patriarch, who comes down here 

occasionally on business for his flock; and the two Catholic 

Bishops, one Greek, and the other Syrian, besides numerable 

clergymen of various grades. At Damascus there are also four 

Presbyterian missionaries. 

Our Catholic religious houses are three-the Sisters of Charity 

(French), the Lazarists, also French, and the Spanish Franciscans. 

The two former have first-rate schools on the same principle as in 

France, teaching six hundred girls and about four hundred boys, 

who all receive a good, sound education, and are fitted for some 

trade. The girlsare taught, besides reading, writing, and religious 

teaching, washing, ironing', mending clothes, scrubbing, and 80 

forth; to sow, bake, chum butter, and cook; accounts and housekeeping-in 

short, they are shown how to be comfortable wives, 

which is the training girls mostly want here.

8alah;'yyeh--Breakfast on Jt:bel KayB1ln, Oonversation." 109 

up his strength. He sat at his window, and every time a Moslem 

came near the door he shot him dead. By-and-by there was a 

little pile of bodies before the entrance, and after a time nobody 

ventured past. This solitary fact shows what men might have 

done in unison. . 

How do· you think Abd el Kadir, true gentleman and 

descendant of the Prophet, behaved? He employed his Algerines 

in protecting and leading the miserable wretches to his palace. 

He sent down an escort for the English Consul, whose Turkish 

guards were wavering and treacherous. He slept across his own 

threshold for many nights upon a mat, lest some starving, 

wounded, and terrified wretch should be sent away by his men. 

He sueeoured and protected the helpless Sisters of Charity. 

How do you think an Englishwoman behaved? She was 

offered a safe asylum in the palace, but her old blood did not 

permit of her showing any fear. She replied with dignity that 

she hardly supposed that she could incur any personal risk in her 

husband's house, he being a Moslem, but that under any circumstances 

she had Christian servants in the house, and that 

whatever danger they had to run she would share it with them. 

And what did France and England? England, as usual, 

looked OD and, perhaps, thought a great deal, but declined to move. 

France, after boasting that she was the l\Iissionary Army of the 

world, and bound to establish Christianity in its native seat, 

landed a fine force, marched up the hill and marched down again. 

Her soldiers reached Kab Elias in the western Buka'a, hardly 

half-way to Damascus. You will ask, what prevented the 

advance, but I can hardly afford to answer you. The con 

Requence of even so mild a show of spirit was that France was 

adored and respected beyond all measure. The French Consul, 

and indeed any Frenchman, carried all before him. I found it 

so on my arrival in 1869 (in 1870 all gave way to the Prussians), 

hut then our neighbours always appoint first-rate men in official 

positions. It was a proud time for the Christians whilst the French 

troops were in Syria. They could boast proudly that no one 

could say "good morning" to them; they were free and happy, 

und making their enemies" cat sand;" they tell the story still 

with childish glee. There are many sad results existing, even

112 The Inner Life oj 8gritJ. 

fall into the usurer's hands, Allah help them! They must give 

up their village and themselves. It is not called slavery here, bui 

slavery is the right word. His Majesty the Sultan and the Grand 

Vizier cannot know these petty details; but the truth is, that the 

strong staff of underlings sent out to occupy official positiODS ill 

this fat berth has to feather its own nest, and in Turkish life that 

is considered an honourable occupation. There are exceptiGDS to 

the rule, but I fear that they are few and far between,' 

No wonder, then, that there is sometimes a massacre. The 

Turks now know that the next time it happens Europe will take 

serious steps, so they do their best to repress disorderly meetiBgs. 

But the Moslem Syrians also know it; they hate the Turkish 

rule, and they wish to be free from their yoke. The Turkish 

Moslem despises the Arab Moslem, and the latter abominates the 

former. So it may come to pass that they may try to raise a 

Jihad (religious or fanatical war), and whenever the reins are 

laxly held they have only to go out in the streets and flourish 

the green flag, crying out EI Sandjak Neb8.wi, and in a few 

minutes every hot head becomes unmanageable, 

If Syria could choose her own master, the Maronites would 

prefer France, and the Greeks orthodox Russia, but all the rest 

would wish for England. Meanwhile wedo not care to possess Syria. 

And the difficulty is simply this: suppose that the Ottomans lost 

Syria, what race of men could take their place? Foreigners are 

too jealous of one another; there are too many aspirants for the 

honour of holding the Holy Land to allow Syria to fall into the 

hands of anyone pdfVer. The best thing, therefore, for the present, 

is to let things remain as they are, and'for Syria to behave herself 

decently. 

In 1840 England armed the Lebanon-Maronite and Druze 

alike, regardless of religion-the object being to drive out Ibrahim 

Pasha. Ibrahim Pasha was completely routed by the Druzes in 

the Leja'a, and harassed by them until his departure. The French, 

under the excuse of protecting the Church, but really to acquire 

influence, and to have a piedaterre in Syria, always sided with the 

Maronite Catholics, and we are supposed to have adopted the 

Druzes for balance of power in the Mountain. The English and 

Turkish camps, with the Druzes, 88 opposed to the French ,.ADd

114 TIll Inner Life of Syria. 

understands a certain cup of coffee,or narghileh : he takes through 

his Wakil (agent) such or such a Bartil, in plain English, bribe, 

perhaps as contribution to the poor-box. The poorer man waits 

for his enemy by the gardens, stabs him, and robs his mare. 

Murder, robbery, and free-fights, settle everything decisively 

and at once. There is no meaning smile, no shrug of the 

shoulder, no whisper that ccMrs. A. was seen to speak on three 

successive days to Mr. B.," or a wonder as to "what on earth the 

poor O.'s have got to live upon;" there is no low, spiteful talk, 

no under-current of poison going round the town to ruin some 

woman's cheracter, That will come in with European contact 

and commerce, perhaps with the Euphrates Valley Railway. 

Now we are on a much grander, more official and public scale. 

Money-lenders stamp out the poor. Turkish officials are jealous of 

European influence. They also hate and oppress the natives of 

Syria. These latter offer bribes, humbly but confidently, to be 

allowed to live, and the tribute is proudly accepted with a 

flourish of trumpets. This goes on everywhere, from highest to 

lowest. Some European officials-I point at no one-do not live 

there too long without getting tainted, and forgetting their ideas of 

right and wrong. Powerful would-be missionary people, who have 

alienated their own most devout and influential supporters, fasten 

upon some innocent person for a fancied slight, and try to sting 

and. crush their victim in the cause of Christianity and good 

example, forgetting that the wasp,though he leave his sting in his 

victim, dies at last. If intrigue were to depart this life in 

Europe she would be born again at Beyrout, and send her offspring 

to Damascus to "increase and multiply."

116 TI,e Inner Lijd of By'ria. 

March balmy, full of violets and spring flowers. April, 1\lay, and 

early June are perfection, and the Arab saying is, "The spring of 

Esh Sham, but the autumn of El Masr." (Egypt and Cairo.) 

At the end of June the heat sets in, and it is cruel to keep 

anything there that is not native, from July to late September. 

In the severe days of the Liberal Government my husband had 

orders to remain at his Consulate, the thermometer in the shade 

of my room,near a fountain, was 115 Fahrenheit; in the sun on the 

terrace it was 170 Fahrenheit. On the 24th July I took an umbrella, 

went out, put a pot of water there, and retired into the 

shade till it was ready to boil an egg. Utter prostration and 

listlessness affected us all: we were only able to lie down, sleep, 

and drink sherbet. The sight of food was abominable. Three 

of my English dogs died-the l\lount St. Bernard and t\VO 

bull terriers, poisoned by the heat and the Simoom. The horses, 

in a very large; cool stable, perfectly shaded by the trees, and 

with all the windows and doors open, looked as they would not 

have done after a hard day's gallop. With all its beauty the 

climate is fll,tally hot, cold, and treacherous. Sudden deaths often 

occur, chiefly amongst the natives. You will hear frequently 

of persons you SR\V but yesterday- 

" So and so died last night." 

" 'Vhat did he die of? " 

"I don't know. He coughed and he died. He got a sneezing 

fit and he died. He said he felt unwell, and presently he 

died." 

If they had remarked, "He took a cup of coffee, and he died; tt 

Of, "He smoked a narghileh and he died;" the answer would be 

"Oh!" as much as to say," Now we understand." Dysentery and 

fever are daily enemies; cholera is a rare visitor, but ,?ery bad 

when it comes. I have seen three isolated cases at different 

seasons and places. Yellow-fever I have never heard of. Syrian 

fever is of an aguish or rheumatic kind; it begins with pain all 

over, particularly the head and back, freezing, burning, lethargy, 

liver disordered, and low spirits. Ophthalmia is ,·ery prevalent. 

Sometimes' a whole village cannot show a dozen sets of sound eyes. 

It comes from uncleanness and flies, and it is so sympathetic that 

one catches it from doctoring the patients. Travellers often suffer

Horsa, and TreatInent. 119 

is the only other resource. On long journeys I use two horses, 

riding them on alternate da.ys; the extra Rahwans and donkeys 

run loose like dogs. Half-bred Syrian horses. have certain disadvantages 

for marching. They must have full, or even extru 

rations, when hard worked. They come out in the morning too 

hot to hold, and look as if. they wanted to kill and eat one. You 

cannot ride near anybody. About the middle of the day they 

settle steadily to work, and leave oft' play-by that time your 

back is well-nigh broken with their" fantasias" under a broiling 

sun. At night they rest till about twelve. When the camp is 

sound asleep, it is aroused by a noise as if Hades had broken loose, 

and you find that they have either bitten their ropes through, or, if 

the ground be sandy, uprooted their pegs, irons a foot and a half 

long, by pawing and pulling alternately. Then they scour the 

camp, sereaming, lashing out, and .fighting, nor can any man with 

safety separate them. And it is a sight to see them. Their ears 

lie back on their necks, their extended nostrils snort steam, as 

they rear on their hind legs, with forelegs almost embracing each 

other, and their teeth fastened into each other's necks, and the 

"set to" either disables them or leaves ugly scars next day. 

No one can afford blood mares of the three great races. 

Several men buy and have a share in one, like a railway company, 

and they divide the profits of her offspring. The Bedawin never 

ride their best mares on plundering expeditions. You might 

shake a handkerchief at them and make them run away; but if 

you see them coming on camels-be frightened. The mare comes 

before wife and child. She means money-and something of reputation. 

I do not say there are no cases of attachment, but I will say 

that in five cases out of seven she merely represents capital. Omar 

Beg, a Hungarian Mir Alai (Brigadier-General), had a lovely mare. 

I believe he bought her after a free fight in the Desert, but she was 

so hamisome that at a grand review-the only thing of the kind 

that ever took place hcre-we could not look at anything else, I 

heard afterwards that he had been ordered off from Damascus in a 

hurry, and had had to part with her for what she would fetch 

£8U. It made me quite envious of the happy purchaser. He had 

another and she was killed by a provoking mischance. 'Vanting 

to do something to her hoof, they were obliged to throw her.

120 TI,e [liner Life of Syria. 

Instead of putting straw, or a heap of soft mattresses under her, 

the barbarians let her fallon the hard stones, and she sustained 

such severe injuries that she died. I do not know bow he bore it 

80 quietly. 

You have often heard of the extreme care and love with which 

an Arab tends his horse. If his own animal is in question he will 

do all he can for it, if it is another man's beast he will do " less 

than nothing," which proves to me that money, and not love of 

the animal, is the motive power. If it is his own he will water it, 

give it what he can scrape up to eat without taxing his pocket 

too violently, he will tether it in the best place, ride it sparingly, 

and, after a rough fashion, groom it. After working it all day he 

will leave the saddle on all night, with the false idea that it would 

gall the back to take it off and WASh it; hence horrible results 

from sweat and loose matted hair. But as for g-rooming the hoofs, 

sponging out the eyes and nose after a hard day in the Desertnever! 

The most a horse gets is a wash in the river, when there is 

one. So they use .up their animals terribly. I have heard a 

Kawwass proudly boast that he had killed nine horses: as if they 

had been shot from under him in battle, or as a Red Indian would 

show his scalps. If the horse is feeding at your expense, the 

owner will make him eat until he almost bursts. If the beast 

be lent or hired to him, he will let it die. 

I had had some experience in Brazil, having been by necessity 

my own stud-groom, but I bought all my experience of Syrian 

travel on my first Desert trip. In the middle of the night I used 

to go round the canlp and see that all was well. Once we had 

thirteen hours' hard ride, sending on water by camels. "ie were 

camped near a deserted Khan, far out in the Desert, which made 

a beautiful warm stable for the horses. It was clear moonlight 

with a driving wind: all the men were asleep, the horses were 

comfortable, save two miserable starveling screws, left after their 

hard work without a drop of water or a grain of barley, saddled 

and bridled, and huddled together shivering in the.cold. Their 

riders had dismounted and handed them to their hirer, and he 

had turned them loose as they were, 'I'hey would have had to go 

on like that day after day until they dropped dead. It wasprobably 

the intention, that the owner might say our party had ridden

122 Ths Inner Life of S!lria. 

ignorance-" barley is very bad for the horses on joumeys-too 

heating." 

"Oh, is itI" I replied. "Well, let us try. Go and fetch me a 

sack of barley." 

" Oh dear no, SittiI-I am a poor man, and you would kill my 

horses." 

I called a Kawwass. "Mohammed Agha, take this man with 

you, and bring him back carrying a sack of barley." 

He was marched oft' immediately, and brought back with the 

Back. When the poor beasts heard the grain rattling they tried 

to break their halters, but they were too weak. I measured 

out a Mid (four measures) to each. I then discharged the Sais, 

the ladies having given me carleblanche, and told the Kawwasses 

to find other horses, as these were dangerously weak: I believe 

that in crossing some of the rocky passes of the Anti-Lebanon they 

would have fallen and severely injured, perhaps killed, my two 

friends. My summary proceedings brought the man to a sense of 

his duty. He had to keep the horses at his own expense all the 

way back to Egypt, and now to pay for others from Damascus, . 

and, in any case, to forward the Sais back to Cairo. So he civilly 

acknowledged his error, and said he would see for the future that 

they were regularly fed. But the "burnt child" did not trust. 

I told him that I had been some months in the country, and had 

lost my English unsuspectingness, and that I preferred having a 

Kawwass to see that they really ate the com in the manger. I 

then gave my friends stable-lessons, and ever after they fed the 

horses themselves. The Dragoman was a good man in all other 

respects, but he could not resist the temptation of pocketing 

the price of the barley, at the risk of his employers' necks. 

When he went down to Beyrout he could not help complaining 

bitterly of my conduct to the Wardi brothers (Dragomans also), 

who happened to know me. 

" Well, Ahmad," they said, "you must have done something 

awfully bad if Bhe was unkind to you." 

He only did that which to my eyes contains all the seven 

deadly sins-he was cruel to brutes. 

Camels show blood as much as horses, and a well-bred delhi is 

a different animal from the baggage-bearer. The former carries

123 

his small head daintily, and looks around him with a sort of pride 

and delicacy; if brought into the town he has an expression of 

disgust, as if the atmosphere offended him, whilst the Bedawi 

stuffs his nostrils with cotton. 

It is strange how many in England confound the dromedary 

with the camel, the difference being that of a race and a carthorse; 

and how few know that the two-humped is the Northern, 

whilst the single-humped is the Southern animal. In Arabia, if 

you speak of the two-humped, the chances are that your auditors 

open their eyes and perhaps their mouths with a "Mashallah," 

which means, " What a prodigious crack! " 

I never saw at Damascus any well-bred mules, which in Brazil 

are very handsome. They are all baggage-animals, they do their 

work well, are very hardly used, constantly ill-shod, and lame, and 

worked over frightfully sharp, rocky places. The donkeys, on the 

contrary, are thoroughbred and small. Snow-white is the colour 

most valued. One of our' consular Dragomans, 11. Hanna Azar, 

clever in stable lore and in diplomacy, gave me all the advantage of 

his experience of horses. He also had a brother who was the best 

sportsman in the city. M. Azar had a very large white 88S that 

could do anything; it was equal to a horse in endurance, and was 

worth £40. I had a beautiful animal, but much smaller; it was 

exceedingly intelligent, and became like a pet dog. "Kubbi" 

was sold to me by a Syrian Christian because it had taken to 

tumbling down; he did not tell me of that at the time, though he 

asked me £15, and I gave him a mare, which had belonged to the 

Italian Consul, which I had won in a lottery, and £3. When first 

I went out, the donkey flung itself down like a sack, without any 

warning. I found out by watching that it was not a trick, as I 

suspected at first, but that a chest disease had affected wind and 

forelegs. So 1\1. Hanna Azar brought me a bottle of what the 

French call "Feu Anglais," a strong liquid blister. 'Ve rubbed 

it into his chest for several minutes; soon the skin rose, the 

hair fell off, the part suppurated for three days, during which 

time we kept the patient in the stable, and fed it on green meat 

only. On the fourth day we washed the chest with bran and 

water, when it immediately healed and dried. We tied an apron 

round the neck to keep off the flies, And allowed it to run about

Friendly Vi,lts - ...4bd el Kadir. 125 

is with the Moslems as if he were one of themselves. I dare 

say, however, the harim will include you in my general invitation 

to the Mosque at prayer-time. We do not go down amongst 

the men, but have a tribune with a grating, the same as we have 

in Catholic convents. It is only a belief amongst the vulgar and 

ignorant that the l\Ioslems allow women no souls," The women 

go to Es Salat, and perform the same Rek'st and make the 

same genuflcxions as the men, only unseen. After prayers, towards 

dusk, we pass the evening on the house-top of a Shaykh's family. 

You are fortunate in being" harim," for we can see so very much 

more of the vie intime than men do. 

"Te are now already at the bottom of the mountain, which is a 

somewhat fatiguing descent, and terrible to the boots. We will 

call to our donkeys, which are still under the shadow of the 

rocks; we will mount, and ride through the unfenced burial-ground 

of the Salahfyyeh. 'Ve shall have a delightful quarter of an hour 

through the shady gardens, enter Damascus, and reach the heart 

of the l\Ioslem quarter. Here we stop at a door thronged by 

Algerines in their white burnouses, They salute us, and we 

ascend the stairs to a reception-room, Europeanized by Abd el 

Kadir, A. moment, and he appears with outstretched hands to 

grasp mine, his face beaming with pleasure at our visit. I present 

you, and he says he is delighted to see an English face, that 

the English have always had a peculiar sympathy with him. 

Abd el Kadir is a man of middle height and of muscular 

frame; a broad brow, with marked straight eyebrows, large dark 

• 1\ly husband assures me that the dogma of women being without soule i. 

Christian. not MOtflcm ; that St. Thomas Aquinas, and others, adopted Aristotle's 

opinion, that, "mulier est erratum naturm et suas oocaaionatas, et per accidens 

generatur, atque ideo e,t monBtrum." St. Ambrose, in his commentaries on St. Peter 

(1 Corinthians xi., where rules are given about our covering the head), Ba)·S boldly. 

"}'oominR,8 ad imagincm Dei factaa non esse." Bayle (Diet. Bub voce Gediccus, 

Reverend Simon of Brandebourg) tells us how that respectable person published in 

1595 a refutation of a book proving the thesis, "mulleres non ease homines," and 

supposed to be 0. satire upon Socinius. 

But when EI Islam threatened to become a power in Europe, where its learning 

and civilization contrasted too favourably with medieval barbarism, the Christians 

thought fit to raise a cry, and the cry that Mohammedans denied souls to women wu 

a good cry. It has luted through many agee, and even now authon who should 

know Letter record with surprise their di800very that Motlern women actually haT. 

aoull.

12G 

brown eyes, bright end piercing, but full of softness and intelligence; 

a complexion not a sickly olive, but a lively, warm brown, 

combine to make a handsome face. He has a Grecian nose, a 

delicately carved but firm mouth, Or broad chin, and two rows of 

bright teeth; his hands and his whole personal appearance show 

blood, and his dignified bearing and cool self-possession are 

characteristics of his life. He dresses purely in white, and is 

enveloped in the usual snowy burnous. His arms, when he wears 

any, are splendid; and if you see him on horseback without knowing 

him to be Abd el Kadir, you would single him from a million, 

let the others be ever so brilliant, and ask who that distinguishedlooking 

Chief might be. He has the seat of a gentleman and a 

soldier. His mind is as beautiful as his face; he is every inch 

a Sultan. 

Colonel Churchill has written his biography so fully, that it 

would be a work of supererogation for me to say anything more 

than that he was the fourth son of the Algerine Marabout, Abd 

el Kadir Mahy ed Din, and was born in 1807. Most readers will 

have read and remember the history of his hopeless struggles for 

the independence of Algeria, his capture, and imprisonment in 

France from 1847 to 1852-& treacherous act, and a tarnish to the 

French Government. He is now pensioned by his conquerors, and 

spends his days at Damascus, surrounded by a Dumber of faithful 

Algerines. 

We shall sit with him for about half an hour, and he will give 

us tea,with a peculiar herb. I always tell him I come to him with 

a headache to drink a cup of his "shahi," and he laughingly says 

11, hopes I shall have a headache every day. He eagerly asks for 

·\new8, and the last political events from Europe. The half hour 

passes like five minutes, but we will take our leave, for he is 

Dot idle like other Easterns, but divides his time into prayer, 

study, business, and very little sleep. We will now pass over to 

hit harim, a house OD the other side of the street, at the back of 

which are gardens and fountains. 

After half an hour we will ride out of the Bab Faradfs, and 

call upon another Arab friend. The house is made noticeable by 

its projecting balcony-like windows and coloured glass. We come 

to a large wooden gateway, and are received by twenty or thirty

Arab Dancing and Singing. 129 

and by letting them rebound, with a noise louder than any castanets. 

'I'heir voices are melancholy, nasal, and boyish, and all 

their songs are in a minor key. They used to set my teeth on 

edge at first, but I have grown to love them now. I am very 

fond of music, but I have never been able to pick up an Arab air. 

It takes a year before one can perceive the difference between 

one air and another, or whether it is intended to be joyous or 

sorrowful; but after this initiation the music becomes most expressive. 

Even their military bands, like all their music, sound 

half a note below concert pitch. 

You must watch them singing. They put on a miserable look, 

hang their heads sideways, turn up their eyes like dying ducks, 

and then out comes a wail, reminding us of an lEolian harp hung 

in a tree. All sit cross-legged in a row upon the divan, and they 

will sing and sway from side to side. That almah, who was once 

the best dancer, and is now the size of six ordinary mortals, can 

no longer dance. We are going jo have a pas setd. This girl 

will move about the room, with little wriggling steps, in time to 

the music, nearly double herself backwards, and throw herself in 

all sorts of contortions and attitudes, till I am convinced that all 

their bones are made of gristle. One thing which perhaps you 

will not understand is that hee dancing means something, 

whereas ours is only intended for exercise, or to give people 

a chance of talking. She has told you by pantomine whole 

histories-of how she was at home with her mother, and how she 

went to market and to the bazar; how she did the washing and 

cooking; how her father (the Shaykh) wanted her to marry, and 

how she didn't want to marry, for that Ali was fighting far away 

in the Desert. She wonders if he thinks of her, and she looks at 

the moon, and knows he can see it too, and asks when he will 

come back. Nowthe music and the steps change. He is coming 

back, and they are dressing her to be his bride; she is walking 

in the bridal procession, veiling her face for shame. And 80 

forth. 

The performers are clamouring for raki. I think they deserve 

a little, but we must not let them have too much. Now I will 

ask for my favourite sword-dance. That thin and graceful girl 

will take her tum, and describe to you a fight by pantomine. 

K


You will be surprised at the way she can handle a scimitar, as if 

she had learned broadsword all her life. She whirls it round her 

head and throat, under her arms, over her back, like lightning, 

and within an inch of our faces, as if she were slashing at sixty 

unseen enemies, dancing all the time. 

But it is getting late. We will pay the poor girls well, and a 

few minutes later we will say good-night to our friends, and ride 

home to Salahiyyeh.

( 131 ) 

CHAPTER X. 

SOCIETY-RECEPTION DAY-CUSTOMS-TURKISH OPPICIALS. 

TO-MORROW (Wednesday) is my reception day, and I will now 

" coach n you up to the programme. I must be ready soon after 

sunrise, and we shall have no time to talk; you also will &88ist 

me from sunrise to sunset. "That society have we? I have told 

you there are altogether thirty Europeans (three English), not 

counting the Missions and Schools. Gaiety is a thing unknown. 

Life here is too solemn, too Oriental for that. I see nearly every 

day a few acquaintance at our eleven o'clock meal. After dark, 

only one friend has the courage to come. She helps me in the 

afternoon to receive, and dines with me afterwards, almost every 

Wednesday; that is my great intellectual treat. She has twice 

nearly had a little skirmish going home, The natives will come 

almost at daylight, and complain bitterly if they cannot see me by 

sunrise. One native lady told me indignantly that she had been to 

see me three times on my reception day, and had been refused. I 

wasjust about to call the Kawwass on guard, and to be very angry, 

when fortunately I thought of asking the simple question, 

"When did you come, and how could it happen that I never 

heard of it? " She answered almost passionately, "Why, I came 

at daylight, and at sunrise, and at S&'atayn bs'ed sab8h (8 s.m.), 

I said it was rather early, and, though an early riser, it was just 

possible that I had not made a .suitable toilette to receive her. 

Tha Church dignitaries will come about 1 p.m. The Consular 

corps, Turkish authorities, Missions and Schools in the 

afternoon; all will hurry to reach Damascus by sunset, except my 

one faithful friend, and she, like myaelf, lives without the Gates,

132 

and has DO fear. H you ever find Abd el Kadir,)Irs.--, and 

Captain Burton together, you lril.l hare a rare treat of conversation 

and different experiences. At my receptions I dress as for 

risiting in London; on those days I belong to my friends; and 

on Saturday to my poor. The French doctor, poor Xioora (now 

dead), breakfasts with me, after which we attend to all the sick 

and sorry in the village, dress wounds, relieve the hungry and 

thirsty, clothe the naked and the little ones, hear grievances, 

settle quarrels, and forward petitions. It is pure charity on his 

part, and friendship for us-may he have his reward! During 

the rest of the week I live in waterproofs and riding-habits. It 

is not an unpleasant trip to the orchards, and in summer, when 

we meet in my own garden under the lemon trees near the river, 

it is pleasanter still This day the Dragomans are 80 good as to 

interpret for me. The Kawwasses, in full dress of scarlet and gold, 

keep guard by turns, and the servants are engaged incessantly 

in bringing up relays of narghilehs, chibouques, cigarettes, sweetmeats, 

sherbet, Turkish coffee, and tea. My friends sit on the 

divans cross-legged or not, according to their nation, and sip, 

and smoke, and chat. If there are :Yoslem women I have two 

separate receptions, and go from one to another-they will not 

unveil before strange men. Even Christian women hide their faces 

before a Moslem. "If he won't show me his harim (says the 

Nazarene) he shan't see mine." So one is obliged to concentrate 

all one's thoughts not to do anything awkward. It would be considered 

very vulgar to hand a pipe or coffee as it is handed in 

England. In handing the pipe, the servant, or even friend, must 

double the narbish, or tube, in a peculiar manner, and touching 

his heart, lips, and forehead with the right hand, he presents it 

with the left. In like manner he hands the coffee, and you receive 

both with a similar salutation. When your coffee is finished he 

salutes, and in taking the cup from you with both hands, he covers 

it with one hand, that you may not be disgusted with the sight of 

the dregs at the bottom, which some eat with a spoon. 

In receiving natives, I advance to meet the women: we 

mutually raise our finger tips to our heerts. lips, and foreheads; 

they then seize my hand, which I prevent their kissing, and kiss 

them on both cheeks. I remove their veils and izm j when

]34 The Inner Life of 8yria. 

drink first; not that they would suspect me, but it is a custom 

with natives, and amongst themselves the omission would be an 

awkwardness, and lay us open to suspicion if any accident did 

happen after they had left the house. 

When I first arrived I used to get up, 88 a matter of course, 

make tea and coffee, and carry them round; the Dragomans used 

lazily to sit. I desired them to get up and help me; they were 

pleased to do 80, and willingly handed it to any European man or 

woman, but not to their own ladies, who blushed, begged their 

pardon, and were quite confused. They looked appealingly at 

me, and stood up, praying not to be served. And when one, who 

was really in love with his wife, a beautiful creature, gave her 

the tea-cup, he did it as if it were rather a good joke, and with 

a slight sneer. She bent and kissed his hand, and humbly 

begged his pardon. I felt quite indignant with the men for 

behaving thus to their mothers, wives, and sisters; but one said 

to me in English, "Pray Mrs. Burton do not teach our women 

things they don't know, and never saw." So I held my tongue, 

but afterwards I told him that with us it would be the height of 

bad taste not to wait upon any woman, above all a wife, or sister, 

and especially a mother. 

I enjoy my reception days, and I think my visitors do also. 

They never come 88 if it were simply a courteous duty. The 

ride, the fresh, cool gardens, the meeting of all sorts of people, and 

interchange of conversation, make the hours pass very agreeably. 

I endeavour to keep a Salon, a Divan, where all creeds, races, and 

tongues may meet without ill-feeling-a neutral ground upon 

which all are friendly. I taboo all religious subjects, and politics 

in general, especially the Franco-Prussian war. I said at the 

beginning, "If you speak of the affair, you won't offend the 

French and Prussians half 80 much as you will offend me, your 

hostess." They never transgress. This was necessary; there was 

80 much terrible feeling about the campaign, and it nearly caused 

duels. The French could not bear to go out; it hurt Abd el 

Kadir; it was thrown in the Maronites' faces; but toe are friends 

with all. I maintain that in a fanatical place like Damascus 

we are neither English, French, nor Prussians, but simply Europeans, 

and that we are bound to hang together.

Society-Reception Day-C'UBto1ll8-Turkiah O.fficials. 135 

The Italian Consul, M. Castelli, gives us a pleasant little 

dinner from time to time, and has a charming wife. Poor Dr. 

Nicora, the Medecin Sanitaire de France aDamas, attached by his 

Government to the Sisters of Charity's establishment, invites us 

periodically to a merry little breakfast: and well he knows what 

a good breakfast is, always seasoned with fun and wit. The 

French are the salt of our little European meetings in Damascus. 

The Jews are very hospitable, and I hope soon to take you to 

a native soiree. But there is no society, as you understand the 

word in England. You will never be invited to a regular dinner 

party, a ball, a concert, a theatre, or a picnic. We are innocent 

of " small and earlys," drums and kettledrums. European music, 

singing, and dancing would be quite out of place. I told you 

that on first arriving I was not allowed to stir out after sunset 

for fear of the lawlessness of the suburb, and the dangers of 

the road to Damascus. During the first few months it was a very 

just precaution. Captain Burton begged of the Wali to organize 

a night patrol, which answered well. He used to go out himself 

(armed) sometimes, unknown to anyone, to try if it was doing its 

duty, and if there was any violencegoing on. Since we have lived 

in Salahiyyeh they have grown somehow to respect the presence of 

the English Consul; moreover, it would be an Arab breach of 

honour to hurt a neighbour. They know that we are true friends 

to the people, and a daily interchange of kindnesses, like watief 

dropping on a stone, softens, civilizes, and humanizes the people 

in a very short while. 

I determined once, when my husband was gone into the 

country, to make an attempt at dining out. The Italian Consul 

gave one of his charming little dinners, but his wife said to me, 

" I suppose it would be but a French compliment to ask you, as 

you cannot be out after dark." So I started at six p.m. in the 

winter time, when it was quite dark. I girded on a revolver and a 

dagger and mounted my donkey, the Sais walking by my side, and 

a Kawwass before and behind. Nobody molested us. I returned 

at one o'clock in the morning, and to my surprise I found a large 

detachment of police to escort me home with lanterns. I gave 

the men some bakshfsh, and thanked the Chief of Police, at the 

same tiJP.e telling him that I should like in future to be able to

136 The I'MUJr Life of Syria. 

dine out without 80 much ceremony. I showed him my arms, 

asking him to spread the report that I carried a revolver, and 

would use it if it were necessary. I have often been out since 

that first time, and returned at all hours without anything but 

a civil good-night. Our English and Americans, besides Captain 

Burton and myself and one lady, consist of four missionaries and 

their families-Messrs. Wright and Scott, of the Irish Presbyterian 

Mission, the former with wife and children and young niece, and 

the latter (now dead) with a sister; the Rev. Mr. Crawford,of the 

American Presbyterian Mission, with wife and children. I know 

myoid friends will not be angry with me if I cannot resist giving 

them an affectionate record, though I have no words adequate to 

praise their lives. All three are straightforward men, honestly and 

earnestly doing their duty, without cant or humbug, and good 

Christian work under difficulties. They know Arabic, and the 

minds and customs of the people; they are therefore competent to 

do real good. Mr. Wright keeps large schools of 344 boys, which 

prosper deservedly; and they have a church, where there are two 

excellent services and sermons on Sunday. There are also two lady 

superintendents of a large school, a branch of the British Syrian, 

known as the late Mrs. Thompson's, at Beyrout. There is 

another reverend gentleman, a Polish converted Jew, who is, 

however, considered English, and has a charming wife and three 

young daughters. I meet one of these Reverend Gentlemen told 

off to convert the Jews in every fresh place we live in; they 

are all made on the same pattern, as if to order; but the Jews 

know so very much more than they do, that it appears more 

likely the Jews will convert them. We have, besides, an English 

engineer and his wife. He was born at Aleppo; she is a Venetian, 

and is the belle of our little circle. Our. religious houses 

are the French Sisters of Charity, the French Lazarist monastery, 

and the Spanish Franciscan monks of Terra Santa. I mention 

them again, because they will appear some time to-morrow, and 

I shall see the " Sisters" in the same salon as those women who 

veil in presence of the other sex. 

The Consular Corps besides England is represented by 

French, Russian, Prussian, Austrian, Italian, Greek, Spanish, 

Persian, and the United Statesman. The Persian is a lJonsul-

Society-Reception Day-Oustoms--Turki,ah OjUJialB. 137 

Geneml; he is a very great personage, and his Dragomans and 

Kawwasses are legion. The Wali and all the officials have an 

unbounded respect for him. He had 0. number of medals and 

orders struck off for him in Europe, in order to decorate 

Turkish authorities in the name of the Shah. He seems Ire. 

bon enfant (he is ninety and. looks about forty). The French 

Consulate is always happily officered. We have M. Roustan, 

with 0. clever and agreeable Chancellier, M. Le Raye, (at 

Beyrout, for Consul-General, Baron Rousseau,) and Dr. Nieora, 80 

often mentioned. The Damascus superintendent of the French 

diligence, M. Giraud, is an ea>-militaire. Prussia is represented 

by the Italian Consul, and the United States by the English 

Consular Dragoman, M. Nasif Meshaka, son of the venerable and 

talented Dr. Meshaka, who is universally respected in Syria, and 

whose clever writings, we hope, may not be lost to the world for 

want of translation from Arabic into English, French, and 

German. 

Last, but not least, is a native Consul, who represents all the 

smaller Powers not yet named. MawvaiB plaisantB say that he wears 

a parti-coloured, or piebald uniform-every patch representing a 

different nation-and two swords, and that his family bowdown to 

him as a very Shah of Consuls. It is asserted that on some 

recent official occasion, when the Consuls were announced, Le 

Consul d'Angleterre, Ie Consul de France, Ie Consul de Bussie, 

that the puzzled servant gravely announced Ie Consul de plusieurs 

Potences. · 

The difficulty of this European society is, that it will split and 

separate into cliques. The missionary and school people associate 

together; so do the three religious houses; the Consular Corps, 

and the French, who, as is natural, see little of anyone but 

themselves. We try to visit all, and to ask all; we also endeavour 

to see as much of the various native elements as is possible, and 

to induce them likewise to mix with us. 

The Turkish authorities are those of every province of the 

Empire, as established by the Constitution which followed the 

Crimean war. They are perpetually changing, and this is perhaps 

the weakest part of the system. At the head of affairs is the 

'Vali, or Governor-Geneml, who holds the position of a Viceroy;


he is also the Emir el Haj, but the duty is done by proxy. M. Delenda, 

a Greek, is the Secretary, favourite, and right hand of the 

Wali The Mushir, or Commander-in-Chief, is the second authority. 

The Kadi is the Chief Judge. The Mutsserif is the Prefet, 

or local Governor, of Damascus, and acts for the Wali if absent. 

The Mufettish is Inspector of Finances. The Deftardar (Treasurer) 

is a keeper of registers and public documents. There is 0. Mir 

Alai of Zabtfyyeh (Chief of Police), and a second in command. 

Each large town has 0. Ka.immo.kam (Governor), 8 Diwan, or 

Council, answerable to Damascus. Each village has 8 Shaykh, 

answerable to the Governor whose district he is in. The Governor, 

in his turn, is answerable to the Wali, who is responsible 

to the Porte.

( 139 ) 

CHAPTER XI. 

THE ENVIRONS OF DAMASCUS. 

THE small rides and excursions around Damascus are innumerable, 

and very beautiful. At first they lead through gardens and 

orchards, with water bubbling by your side, and under the shade 

of the fig and vine, pomegranate and walnut branches; then you 

emerge on the soft, broad, yellow sand, and you may throw off 

your superfluous strength by galloping as hard as you will-there 

is no one to check your spirits, or find fault with you: the breath 

of the Desert is liberty. There are no brooks to tumble into, no 

fences to be shot over, nor tramways, as in Lancashire, to make 

you look out for a " shy." I have often thought what a capital 

residence it would have been for the well-known gentleman who 

"loves and he rides away," and how glad he would have been to 

return-sometimes. I could take you a different way every moming 

for a month or two. To-day we must ride the horses, as we 

are going out of the town. We will tum to the right hand, and 

keep the mountain, Jebel Kaysfin, on our right, steer through 

the gardens, look down the gorge of the Harada, cross the river 

where it is possible, and proceed to Mizzeh, a village placed 

exactly on the border of the green and yellow. One side of 

it looks into the trees and verdure, and the other side on to the 

bare sand. 'Ve will canter about half an hour beyond it, and 

then dismount, and climb up a pile of rocks to watch the strings 

of camels and the horsemen making across the plain for Katana, 

a village three hours away. All the roads are much of the same 

nature, only the objects differ. We will now make a round to Jeramann, 

a Druze village, which will put Jebel KaysUn on our left,


and Damascus between the mountain and ourselves. As you are 

English you will meet with a most hospitable reception. They will 

come out in a body, kiss your hand, and lead you to the house of 

the Shaykh, who is attached to the British Consulate. You will 

there be seated upon the divan, and have coffee and sherbet, and 

narghfiehs handed, and be strongly pressed to stay the night, 

at least. You had better refuse, because we are only an hour and 

a half from home, and we must ride much longer before evening. 

We will pass round by Jobar, about the same distance from home. 

I am taking you in a semi-circle from Jebel Kayslin, keeping the 

whole time about an hour and a half from Damascus, which is our 

centre. J obar is a Moslem village, with a synagogue, which is a 

pilgrimage for Damascus Jews; it is dedicated to Elijah, and built 

over a cave, where they believe the prophet used to hide in time 

of persecution. A railed oft' space shows where he anointed 

Hamel. When the prophet was at Horeb, "the Lord said unto 

him, Go, return on thy way to the wilderness of Damascus; and 

when thou comest, anoint Hamel to be king over Syria (1 Kings 

xix, 15). 

We will now turn our backs to the East, and keep Damascus 

on our left, and reach Burzeh, which completes our semi-circle. 

Burzeh is a beautiful little village, almost under the mountain, 

nestling in verdure, partly hidden by a cliff at the mouth of a 

glen. A Moslem Wely, called ?rfakam Ibrahim (Place of Abraham), 

assembles thousands of pilgrims on its festival day, and a 

miracle is performed by the Shaykh riding over the prostrate 

bodies of the faithful without hurting them, as at Cairo. This 

well-known ceremony is called Da'aseh, written by Europeans 

" Doseh "-it merely means" the treading." Josephus, or rather 

Nicolaus of Damascus, says, "Abraham reigned at Damascus, 

being a foreigner, who came with an army out of the land above 

Babylon, called the land of the Chaldeans. But after a long time 

he got up and removed from that country, also with his people, 

and went into the land of Canaan, but now the land of Judeea, 

Now the name of Abrahain is still famous in the country of 

Damascus, and there is showna village named from him the habitation 

of Abraham." This tradition, it says, is traced through a 

long line of Arab authors to the present day. Burzeh is the village,

The Environs of Dalna8CUB. 141 

and the Moslems,with whom Ibrahim is the second great prophet, 

venerate it in his honour. In a cleft behind the Wely he is Said 

to have prayed after his return from the pursuit of the kings who 

pillaged the cities of the plain. The people of our day, 88 you 

will hear when we talk to them, still believe that Abraham lived 

there. There is a dispute whether Burzeh or Jobar is the true 

site of Hobah, "which is on the left hand (north) of Damascus," to 

which Abraham pursued the kings of the East (Gen. xiv, 14-16). 

Burzeh is the most likely in point of situation, and in point of 

name Jobar seems the likeliest corruption of Hobah. We have 

now only to keep the mountain to our right, and a ple8sant three 

quarters of an hour will carry us straight into Salahfyyeh. 

You now know Damascus tolerably well, and I am not obliged 

to keep you inside it. All the other rides in the plain will take 

you one, two, or three days. These little outings of a few hours 

round about the capital will refresh you after your sight-seeing. 

Perhaps it would have been less tedious if diversified by alternate 

City and saddle. 

The longer excursions are to the Convent of Saidnaya, considered 

by the Greeks to be Ptolemy's Danaba, The scenery is 

wild and beautiful. There is a miraculous picture of our Blessed 

Lady, where women flock to pray. The original is said to have 

been taken to Russia; however, the copy seems to do just 88 well 

The devotees tell me that they come back with their petitions 

granted. 'Ve shall also visit the rock tombs and temples of 

Menin and Helbon, said to be the Chalybon of the Bible, once farfamed 

for its wine exported to Tyre. Ezekiel (xvii. 18) says: 

" Damascus was thy merchant in the multitude of the wares of thy 

making, for the multitude of all riches; in the wine of Helbon, 

and white wool." Strabo wrote that" the luxurious kings of Persia 

drank Chalybonian wine of Syria." I hope they liked it better 

than I do. The Christians of Damascus still make the wine. I 

find it very bad, as indeed I do all their stuff, cven the 'Vino 

d'oro of the Lebanon, which I have only found good twice; once 

in a Maronite stronghold, and once at the Patriarch's. All the 

rest tastes as if it were medicated and liquoriced drink. 

At the north-east extremity of the plain stands the village of 

Dumayr, which contains a well-preserved temple, builtin A.D. 246.

142 Phs Inner Life of Syria. 

This is the first day's station for the Baghdad camel post. About 

two miles eastward, and at the foot of the lowest range of Anti 

Lebanon, called Jebel el Ksus, are the ruins of a little town and 

fortress, deserted for centuries. The Desert of Arabia stretches 

right away to the east and south-east, We will make all these 

little excursions, and being rides of two or three days' distance, 

with time to see and repose, they will get your hand in for larger 

expeditions, such as Palmyra, Ba'albak, Hebron, the Hsuran, and 

the Leja'o.. Your back will get used to the saddle, and your head 

to the SUD, which will be 0. comfort to you, as these expeditions 

will necessitate your riding, let us say, eight hours on 0. short day, 

and perhaps thirteen on 0. long day. 

Some of my relations-Lord and Lady B--, Mr. S--, and 

Mr. G. L. F--, who are bound for a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, 

have arrived here, en route, to see me. My friends the Jews, hearing 

this, have sent to invite us all to a soiree to-night. I will send 

my thanks, and accept. We shall dress in morning gowns 

(English toilette), and ride down on donkeys, accompanied 

by Kawwasses and torches. 

The court yards are full of gorgeous attendants. The orange, 

citron, and jessamine trees, the balconies and the trellis-work, are 

brilliantly illuminated. The women sit, 88 usual, in rows, crosslegged, 

upon the divans all around; they are splendidly dressed 

in every coloured silk, the bosom much exposed, and all are 

covered with jewellery, but especially worn on the head. They 

wear everything they have, regardless of colour, or " sets" of ornaments, 

and they are very fond of sewing rows of earrings round 

their turbans-well they may, for the stones are gorgeous, though 

very badly set. This disregard of colour is not peculiar to 

J ewesses, but extends through every class of Syrian women. If 

they can find two colours that" swear," they are sure to put them 

on--a blue skirt and green jacket, with yellow head-dress; pink 

and red, blue and lilac, all is the same to them. They do not see 

it, and it has 0. garden-like effect, perhaps crowned with £20,000 

worth of badly-set diamonds. Some of them are exceedingly 

pretty, but they have 0. habit which makes them all look alike, 80 

much 80, that, pretty or ugly, until you get used to their faces,and 

are intimate with them, you can hardly tell one from another. It

The Environs of DamaBC1.UJ. 143 

is considered 0. " shame" for a married woman to show her hair; 

and at a tender age, just when we begin to be vain of ours, she is 

shaved, and obliged to wear a wig, which I am sure must be 

bought by the "gross," they are all so uniform and clumsily 

made. They all paint exactly the same patterns on their faces. 

They produce a thick, white, shining, and creamy complexion; their 

foreheads are quite glossy, their cheeks and lips are very red, 

their eyebrows and eyelashes pencilled very black, the former 

with lamp-black and gum, the latter with kohl, or, betterstill, with 

a nut burnt in the candle. Occasionally little stars and crosses are 

disposed, like the patches of "Queen Anne's" day, about their 

faces. 

The men dress in coloured cloth cloaks, mostly purple, and 

lined with fur; all wear the tarbush. Those are Polish Jews (men) 

who train two large ringlets to hang down by the ear, like the old 

English corkscrew. The womensit upon one side, the men upon the 

other. Tables are placed in the middle, and covered with every 

kind of native refreshment, and the rooms are brilliantly lighted. 

Some of the ladies will dance for us, one at a time, but they are 

very shy, and there are also professionals to play and sing. I 

have with me a kind of head servant, a smart, accomplished 

rascal, with a great talent for the Sword-dance, and at universal 

request I will make him perform. So far from being abashed he 

is delighted, and puts himself into all his most graceful attitudes, 

and looks as if to say-" I am Zahr8.n! Look at me; I will 

astonish you, and cut you all out!" And 80 he did, and got 

great applause. 

Have we not thoroughly enjoyed our soiree 1 It is true that 

I am very bitter about the money-lenders, for the sake of the 

poor; but the Jews here are a hospitable and warm-hearted race, 

when you do not touch their pockets; and I am especially fond of 

the women.

144 Phs Inner Life of Syria. 

CHAPTER XII. 

THE HAMMill, OR TURKISH BATH-A FRIENDLY EVENING AT A 

HARfM. 

I DABESAY you are tired. Yesterday we rode far. WouId you like 

to pass a lazy day, and go to the Turkish bath? It will take away 

all the fatigue, and we can get through an easy afternoon afterwards. 

Would you like to see the Hammam? Old Hadji Ahmad 

will prepare it for us; he will take care, under all circumstances, 

that the whole establishment is unquestionably clean, and we will 

take with us the widow of a deceased Kawwass of the Consulate, 

who considers herself under British protection. She has foolishly 

become fourth wife of a Kurd, by whom she has a son. I fancy 

she has a "hard time." She is, or rather has been, handsome and 

very prononeee for a Moslem woman. 

. Firstly, we enter a large hall, lit by a domed skylight, with 

a huge marble tank in the centre, and four little fountains spurting 

in the corners. All around are raised divans, covered with 

cushions. Here we wrap ourselves in silk and woollen sheets, 

and towels round the head. We shall now pass through six 

marble rooms, all with domed sky-lights, marble floors, and a 

gutter cut in them to let the water oft', and surrounded by large 

stone basins and troughs, each with its tap of hot and cold water. 

The first is the cold room, the next warm, the third warmer, and 

so on until you come to the eudarium, of about 120 degrees 

Fahrenheit. 

Here the operation commences. Firstly, they lather your 

head and hair thoroughly. Then you are washed over, first with 

flannel and soap. if you like, secondly with a brush and soap;

The Hammd1n, or Turl.,-ish Bath-Evening at a Harf,m. 147 

duced to her; nevertheless, she thanked me with a dignified 

gratitude. The attendants begged me not to interfere with the 

doctor's regulations, and she obediently removed the towel. 

I wonder that everybody who ventures on 0. Turkish bath in 

England does not suffer for it. A man rushes from the City, after 

0. chop and a glass of ale. Out of the raw, damp street suddenly 

affronts 100 or 120 degrees; he passes half an hOUT, or an hour if 

he can spare it, and his mind all the while full of anxiety and 

business. His clothes on, he bolts out of that hot room into the 

cold street, and he is off to work again. At night he is surprised 

that he has 0. headache, and feels depressed and weakly. The 

wonder is that he was not found dead in the bath. The ordinary 

Englishman is no more fitted for Eastern Kayf, than an Eastern 

for life in the east-end of London; and Jermyn Street (I can 

only speak of the harim side), is a parody of the real Eastern 

bath. It has all its disagreeables without its delights, extreme 

heat without graduation, stuffy rooms without any comforts or 

luxuries. Perhaps Jermyn Street is improved since 1872. 

As you are unused to the Hammam, I do not think that it 

will be good to take a long ride, or to make any great exertion 

to-day. \Ve will go home, lunch, and spend the rest of the day 

with a Moslom harim. I am not going to mention names. 

",.e will dress like natives; we are about the same height and 

figure, and therefore you can use my clothes. You will wear 0. 

pair of lemon-coloured slippers, pointed at the toes; white linen 

trousers, like two large sacks, which are gathered at the waist and 

at the ankles; and 0. large garment, like a fine linen dressing 

gown, prettily embroidered, it fastens round the throat, and 

is belted round the waist; it falls to 'the knees. As your hair 

is golden you must wear 0. pale-blue waistband, 0. blue neck 

ribbon, and a blue turban. I shall kohl your eyebrows jmd eyelashes, 

Your hair shall hang loose down your back, and be tied 

in a knot of blue ribbon behind like a colt's mane. You will be 

covered with jewellery of all colours, sizes, shapes, and sorts, 

regardless of "sets;" your turban will be literally crusted and 

caked with it. A small bouquet of two or three flowers will 

be fastened in your front hair, 80 as to hang down your forehead, 

reaching between your eyebrows-at first it will make you


Her greatest wonderment is, that although 1 have nice gowns I 

never wear anything but riding habits and waterproofs, and above 

all no jewellery, that 1 spend but little time on divans, but take 

hard exercise, and am always busy. At last, one day she could 

stand it no longer, and burst out, "Ya Sitti, aniinti (my happiness), 

Dakhlik (I take refuge with you), Why not wear this lovely 

gown? (an old faded, decolletk blue ball dress, trimmed with tulle 

and roses). I will hate the black. When the Consul Beg will come 

and see his harfm so darling, he will be so jealous and ashamed 

from himself. I beg of you, will you keep this till you are an old 

woman, instead of to be joyful in your happy time?" Think of 

me, readers, sitting on a mud floor, decolletee in blue tulle and roses, 

all alone in my eyrie in the Anti-Lebanon, doctoring the poor, 

and shooting wild game. A little petting goes a very long way 

to make a Syrian speedily very "uppish." I one day offered a 

little girl, not of the higher classes, who possessed nothing, some 

massive silver butterflies, mounted and trembling on silver hairpins-Indian 

work, which would have delighted any English girl. 

""Yill you have them, my child," I said. "They will look so 

pretty in your black hair." She looked very grave, and a little 

offended, and replied, "Thank-you, Sitti, but I would rather not 

have them. 1 could not wear them in my village. They are not 

diamonds, and the people would not understand it." If you take a 

person up here, they expect you to do everything for them. A 

rich person could not afford to have more than one protege, they 

exact so much, and a person with a moderate income should not 

attempt it. However, this digression has nothing to do with the 

harims, who want nothing but our company. 

That old woman is a relation of her husband. They married 

very young, and he has the greatest respect for her; she accompanies 

him on all his expeditions, veiled, and with the baggage, of 

course, and she is the only woman who has this privilege. He 

asks her advice behind the scenes, for she has natural talent and 

good sense. She is the head wife, but, as you see, she is old; he 

constantly invests in a new wife, a Circassian slave, or what not, 

and the new comer enjoys a short reign .&8 the toy of a month, 

when another succeeds her. She is jealous and miserable, spite 

her age, and he laughs, and cannot think howshe can be 80 foolish

The Hammdm, or Turkish Bath-Evening at a Harlm. 151 

as to care, or to suppose it could be otherwise, But though the 

skin is shrivelled and the eye is sunk, the woman's heart has 

never yet learned to be a philosopher in these matters, nor has 

it in any clime, or ago, or race-and it never will! She alone is 

"Bint el Naas" (daughter of a good house), the others are all 

"Sorrayeh" (bought ones). 

Now notice that other, a thin, brown, plain little .woman, who 

looks about five-and-twenty. There is nothing apparently very 

attractive, but she has an innate knowledge of the world,she rides, 

she makes the house comfortable, she receives well, she understands 

her husband's comforts, she is sympathetic-in a word, she 

really loves him. \Vhen he comes in, notice the gleam of intelligence 

that passes between them. She is the" favourite." He 

will not notice nor speak to her, but will come and sit by us, with 

a word perhaps to No.1. These tWQ are the principals; all the 

rest may be young and good looking, but they are as nothing. 

You ask if the women in the harims are generally pretty. No; 

ill all the houses of Syria I have seen three or four women who 

would be singledout as beauties in Europe, and theirs was chiefly 

la beaui« du diable, which withers at the first act of neglect or 

unkind treatment, 

Now I will show you that they have the same feelings as ourselves. 

Go and sit by the old wife. Do you see how pleased and 

how affectionate she is? After a few minutes ask to have one of 

the others brought up, to sit at the other side of you. Do you see 

how her face clouds, and how jealous and vexed she looks? S(\(', 

she D10yeS a\\"u,y. She descries the" fuvourite's " slippers at the 

top of the stairs, and she has given them one vicious kick and sent 

them flying from the top to the bottom. Poor woman! that is only 

an emblem of her feelings. How well we understand it. She dares 

not do anything more than what is figumtive. 

Yon see around you about 150 women. Not a man is to be 

seen. They know the harim have a party, and will avoid even 

COIning near the gate. You noticed that the master of the house 

vanished on the announcement of the first arrival. You perceive all 

are dressed more or less alike, only in various colours, and some 

better, others worse. A fow arc quite young girls of nine or ten ; 

and some that you think quite childish are married women.


"Mashallah! See what a danger the Helwe (the sweet one) is 

running, and hear how she laughs." 

"Oh no, no; there is no danger ! You are all mistaken. Now 

listen to what I want to explain to you. Our lives and your lives 

are quite different. You are set apart to dwell amongst one 

another, mostly indoors, in a settled place; your lives would 

indeed be a failure without children. You are three or four, and 

your Lord and Master honours most who has the most sons; and 

why? Because your ancestor, in the old law, exactly as to-day, 

could not 'meet his enemies in the gate' without being backed 

up by his stalwart sons and their SODS, his brothers, and his uncles 

and their sons. In short, the family who could show the most 

fighting men were the most honoured, and carried the greatest 

weight in their town or tribe. So men chose wives who could 

bear them sons, and visited with their displeasure those who 

could not. The men of our races marry one wife, and a family 

will commonly be from six or eight to ten children. I have seen 

a woman nursing her twenty-fourth child. (Loud murmurs of 

applause, and Mashallahs.) Children are from Allah. If He 

sends them we bless Him, and if He does not we are contented, 

for we know that it is for some good purpose, some special 

mercy to ourselves. The English husband would not put his 

wife away for anything. I feel quite secure of my place. The 

Sidi &g may marry another after my death, but not before. I 

never think about jealousy, and it is not in our customs that 

the' honour of the house' should notice his slaves, or anyone but 

his wife." 

"But what would you do if your husband did bring home the 

second wife?" . 

"If I were brought up to it, if it were in my education and 

religion, if I knew nothing else, it would come to me like any 

other custom; but that not being the case, I fear that number 

two would be made very uncomfortable." 

" Ah! how happy you are. You are all like men; you wear 

men's clothes (riding-habit), you bare your faces, you ride by 

your husband's side, and share all his dangers and councils with 

him like a brother; and we are kept here like donkeys, and not 

allowed to see anything or know anything. You are secure of

The Hamm,Q,m, or Turk·ish Bath-Evening at a Hanm. 155 

your husband's affections, and are alone (only wife), whether you 

have children or not!" 

"Some day, perhaps, you will all be like us. Your husband 

will begin to adopt European habits. Already the Stamboulis 

are beginning to change a little, but the move must not be made 

too fast." 

"That is true! that is true I Inshallah l Inshallah l " 

"Now I have answered all your questions, I want you to 

answer some of mine, if you can understand, as you seem to do, 

my broken Arabic." 

" Go on! go on ! When you speak Ambic, your words drop 

out of your mouth like sugar. We could bear it all night-for 

8 week!" 

. Encouraged by this affectionate bit of flattery, which is not 

strictly true, but far more pleasant to hear than the northern 

guffaw at one's failures, I proceed. 

" Well, then, your life is as curious to me as mine is to you. 

Tell me a little, I beg of you. How do you like veiling your 

faces? " 

" We do not know what it is to unveil before a man. We 

should only do 80 if we meant to insult him, and no good woman 

would do this. We should feel ashamed, uncomfortable, and 

ill at ease." 

.1\s soon as a girl begins to ripen into womanhood, she is 

obliged to hide her face; and you will see little things of eight or 

nine assuming the dignity of womanhood, and refusing to answer 

a man's" Good morning." 

" I also want to know how, as you never go out, never see $IlY 

man but your husband, the young girls contrive to be married?" 

" Well, the mother and the aunts of the young man whom 

they want to marry go about visiting all the harims, and when 

they have fixed upon a girl likely to suit, and have made all 

necessary inquiries concerning her, they go home and describe to 

the son her appearanco, what she can do in the house, what she is 

likely to have in worldly possessions." 

[Her clothes in, perhaps, two marqueterie chests, perhaps a field 

or two. The husband, in middle-class life, gives the wedding trousseau 

and the best jewellery, and a settlement of a few thousand

The Ham1na1n, or Turkish Bath-Evening at a Hartm. 157 

in harims. I grieved for this, and explained how we honour our 

old age. In the East the young seem, on the contrary, to have a 

horror of it. Yet it is only fair to own that I have seen the same 

thing in Southern Europe. 

"No\v tell me, Leila," I continued, "when you see your 

husband devoted to Nejmeh or to Shems, what do you do ? " 

The answer was true, tender, and womanly. 

"Ya Sitti, what can I do? I go away and cry !" 

It was then their turn to question. 

" Tell us, in return, how you manage to keep your husbands, 

and to be on equal terms with them. Some say that you who 

have blue eyes have the' evil eye,' and can make them do what 

you like." 

" Do not believe that. 'Ve have no 'evil eye' amongst us; we 

do not know it. 'Ve all meet in society, men and women alike. 

In Franguestan girls are not veiled: they see young men in their 

fathers' houses. l\Ien and women are all alike to us, except the 

one ,,'e mean to marry. Eventually a young man will say to 

himself, 'I have to choose one woman with whom to live all my 

life, to love and respect her, and to trust everything to her 

prudence. I feel that such-and-such is the only one with 

whom I would willingly pass all my days.' Then he goes 

to the girl, and he asks her to be his wife. If she says' No,' 

there is an end of the matter, and nobody ever hears of it. If she 

says ' Yes,' they go to their fathers and mothers, and ask their 

blessing. The parents consent, and arrange the wedding. They 

are then betrothed, and have time before marriage to learn all 

each other's faults and good qualities, and to know exactly what 

they have taken upon themselves." 

" 1\1nshallah! and how does it go on afterwards ? tt 

"The woman must take as much pains to look pretty ann 

dress well 88 she did before; she must love her husband, be very 

respectful to him, make his house bright and comfortable-even if 

it be poor, she must try not to make it look 80 to his friends; she 

must be constantly waiting upon him, and thinking what she can 

do to please him; she must also educate herself, that she may 

be able to be his companion, friend, adviser, and confidante, that 

he may miss nothing at home; and finding all that he can


desire in his wife, he has nothing to seek elsewhere; she mnst 

be a careful nurse when he is ailing, that he may never be anxious 

about his health; she must not unjustly or uselessly squander 

his money; she must take an interest in all his pursuits, and 

study them; she must not confide her domestic affairs to all her 

friends; she must observe the same refinement and delicacy in all 

her words and actions that she observed before her marriage; she 

must hide his faults from every one, and always be at his side 

through every difficulty and trouble; she must never allow any 

one to speak disrespectfully of him before her, nor permit anyone 

to tell her anything of him or his doings; she must never hurt 

his feelings with 8 rude remark or jest, never answer when he 

finds fault, nor reproach him when he is in the ,,'rong; never be 

inquisitive about anything he does not volunteer to tell her; 

never worry him with trifles, but rather keep the pleasant news 

for him when he comes home, and be looking her brightest and 

her best. Above all, she must see that all his creature comforts 

are ready. The wife who follows this recipe, 0 Leila, is never put 

away; she has no need of the 'evil eye,' nor love potions, nor 

papers written by the Shaykh. Her husband could not do without 

her; he loves her, and knows her as himself. He will listen 

to no voice but hers, and he would find 8 second wife very much 

in the way." 

" Mashallah ! You speak like a book, and how much you 

know, Of course it is true, but what do we know of all 

this?" 

The women will understand and talk well for hours on such 

subjects. And is it not natural? They are not educated, in our 

sense of the word; few can read and write, They have never 

travelled j they go out very little, except in this way, and see 

nothing but what we are seeing now.' Their lives are therefore 

a round of household duties, after which they dress, receive their 

harim friends thus, or they visit other harims, or they ride to the 

Silk and buy trifles. I know some men who are so strict that 

they will not allow their harims to pay a visit, or to shop for 

themselves, but order everything to be sent to the house. These, 

unfortunately, are thrown on their own society and their own 

resources, seeing only the master of the house, at times when,

The HammQ"n, or TwrkisJIJ Bath-Evening at a Hanm. 161 

"Ah, Ya Sitti! it is all the same! Bury thyself, and the 

worm will bring bad report. 'Vhen the rain patters on the 

house-top, do we expect her to come through and wet us? Yet 

with all care this will sometimes happen. Do we know when the 

serpent is in the rafters of the ceiling until she drops on the 

bed? " 

I was once invited to contribute to a weekly journal, whose 

object, doubtless of doing good, was to collect information concerning 

every race, creed, tongue, mode of life, and condition 

of woman. This is an admirable safety-valve for all classes at 

home, where, if there is any grievance, you can hold a committee, 

and apply knife and fire to the root of the evil. But if you 

cannot do so, what is the use of talking it over? what is to be 

gained by lifting up the curtain of the domestic theatre? I am 

writing for my own sex, and especially for my own countrywomen, 

and yet I leave a thousand things unsaid which would be 

information, because it would please neither my Eastern friends 

nor my Western sisters to read a detail of habits so totally different 

from their own. I do not think th. my reasoning will 

induce El Islam to adopt monogamy, nor to educate one wife, nor 

to raise her to companionship with himself-yet this alone 

would root out many hidden evils. To a great extent the morality 

of society is marvellous; but it is enforced. It is also an inheritance 

of families, tribes, races. The large towns, of course, are 

almost the only tainted places. If intrigue is suspected, the 

police have the right to enter the house and drag the accused into 

the street; and although four eye-witnesses are necessary to condemn 

them, they both know they will certainly die by the hands 

of their own relatives. In wilder places, if a girl is unfortunate, 

the parents, relatives, and all the village, dress her like a bride, and 

make a feast like a " wake" round the mouth of a deep hole; they 

throw her into it and return, singing and making merry. The 

parents have done a meritorious action-the honour of the family 

is cleared. The man also dies, and there is a Th8.r, or blood 

feud, aperpetuite. None of these savage acts have taken place in 

our time, but in the mountain opposite our summer quarter there 

is one of these deep caves; and we were assured by the villagers 

that two years before we came one of these horrid feasts took place 

M

162 The Inner Life of 8y"'1a. 

there in the winter time. A father or brother will beat his 

daughter or sister for looking round at a man out of doors, even 

if accidentally or unintentionally. If a man pass a maiden and 

say "Good-morning," she must not answer him, unless rudely, to 

ask how he dare speak to her. Then he says, "That is a good 

lass, that is the wife for me." If, on the contrary, she return a 

civil good-morning, or stop and speak a few words to him, he 

forms a light opinion of her, and looks for marriage elsewhere. 

In the villages the youths test girls' characters by these experiments. 

But I see Leila is trying to tell us something. 

"Listen, Ya Sitti. Let me tell you a curious case of injustice 

to women-not amongst us, but amongst the Christians of Damascus. 

You know A-- B--? 

"I visit him and his charming little wife. She was then a 

bride of fifteen days, young and pretty, gorgeously dressed, 

with about £20,000 of diamonds upon her head and neck, but 

so badly set that they look of little value, and she rolled from 

side to side, which I know is very 'chic' amongst you. I felt 

80 indignant because she had to present a cup of coffee to her 

dirty, coarse-looking husband, in a very humble attitude, kissing 

his hand." 

They laughed, and Leila continued: "Well, Ya Sitti, many 

years ago he married a nice girl. He unfortunately forgot to 

invite to the wedding one of his friends who wanted the same 

maiden. The day after the wedding they met, and his Judas 

said to him, " So thou didst not ask me to thy wedding. Thou 

knewest that I was beloved before thee." Stung to the quick, 

the man believed in the taunting lie, and without a question, 

considering his honour gone, he sent the innocent, unhappy 

bride back to her father, ruined and disgraced. She is there 

now, a prematurely-aged and broken-hearted woman. After a 

long time A-- B--, a Catholic (Latin), married again, another 

beautiful girl. The priests told him it was a grievous sin, his 

having put away the first wife without a true cause, and the 

Catholic Church has no divorce. So they placed him under a 

bann not to live with the second wife. He dared not break with 

them, but having no cause to send the second wife home, he kept 

her in the house for fifteen years like 8 sister. She could Dot

The HammQ,'m, or Turkish Batlv-Evening al a Har'm. 163 

understand the cause of her' offence, She thought he did not love 

her, 80 she remained all that time serving him, and doing all she 

could to win his affections. She covered his house with beautiful 

tapestry. His splendid divans, cushions, curtains, were all her 

work. At the end of fifteen years some foolish woman-friend 

advised her to go to one of these Shaykhs, or magicians, who 

write papers and make love philtres. She went and said, 'Give 

me something that shall make my husband look upon me 

with favour.' He entrusted her with some liquid in a cup, over 

which he blew, and said some words,-' When thy husband comes 

in to-day, give him this to drink in his sherbet or in his coffee, 

but be sure that he drinks it out of this very cup, or he will go 

mad.' The wife objected. '1\[y husband has an especial cup of 

silver, and if I give him to drink out of a strange cup he will 

suspect me.' 'No matter (said the Shaykh), thou must not 

change the cup.' She went home, and she gave the drink to him, 

but put the drink into her husband's silver cup, and he did go 

mad." 

This is a true story; he was very ill for some time with a kind 

of derangement of the head. 

"When he recovered he turned upon her, saying, 'Thou gavest 

me a drink to make me mad. Thou art a witch, and I hate thee.' 

She also was sent back to her father's house, and is a prematurelyaged 

woman. Then he passed a long time very unhappily, but 

in 1869, although already a broken-down, aged man, he again 

sought a beautiful young wife. This time, to make the union 

secure, he changed his religion from Catholic to Greek Orthodox. 

You know the bride then, 0 Sitti ? " 

"Yes, and I think her beautiful ; and after all you have told 

DIe, which I know to be true, I tremble for her." 

Since this conversation took place, happily for the third 

young wife, the man has died, so that she who was beauty, meekness, 

and prudence itself was saved from inevitable scandal. 

The long martyrdom of the other two is over, though I fear too 

late to make them happy. 

Now they are preparing supper, and you 800 the huge, flat 

brass trays perched upon round, small mother-of-pearl stools, and 

covered and balanced with various dishes. A slave will now bring

The Hammdm, or Turkish Baln -Evening al a Harim. 165 

don't you think that as women we may perhaps be better 88 

we are?" 

That was the query of the young and pretty. Whilst the 

other category would exclaim- 

"Istaghfar' Allah! why this is neither man nor woman, nor 

anything else. Allah preserve us from this manner of pestilence! 

'Amin." 

Also, we must qualify that idea that we have in Europe, viz., 

that there is no education in a harim, Reading and writing are 

only means, Bot ends. The object of education is to make us 

wise, to teach us the right use of life. Our hostesses know everything 

that is going on around them. The husband, behind the 

scenes, will often hold a council with his wives. They consult 

together, and form good and sensible judgments, and advise their 

husbands even in political difficulties. Can we do more? Of 

course, you will understand that I am now speaking of the higher 

classes. When I compare their book-learning with that, for 

instance, received by girls at home fifteen or twenty years ago, 

I can remember that the lessons learnt by heart, and painfully 

engraved upon my memory, have required a toil of unlearning 

and relearning since I have mixed with the world. As regards 

mere accomplishments, some ride, dance, sing, and play, as well 

in their way as we do in ours; some read, some write, and almost 

all can recite poetry and tales by the hour. The manners of 

some are soft and charming. The best speak purely and grammatically; 

slang is as unknown to them 88 dropped" aitches," 

Finally, in the depth and fervour of their religious belief, many 

of my friends are quite equal to us-in their way.

168 TM Inner Life 01 Syria. 

covered with mats and prayer-carpets. Once it was all tesselated 

stones, of which patches here and there remain. There are large 

chandeliers from one end to the other; the aisles are divided from 

the nave by two rows of tall columns with Corinthian capitals. 

In the middle is a domed transept, supported by four square 

piers, also with Corinthian capitals, gilt for greater honour. 

The whole of the face opposite the court is composed of doors, 

and arches, and windows of delicately-carved wood; they give the 

idea of having been put there to replace some magnificent facade 

destroyed in war or rapine. ...\t the further end is a grille, evidently 

intended for nuns to hear mass behind the High Altar, 

where the great Shaykhs now retire to pray. On the side 

opposite the carved wooden windows,mihrabs, or niches, where the 

Imams, or leaders of prayer, stand, break the wall at every ten 

yards. They are beautifully tesselated, and inlaid with motherof-pearl 

and stones of every colour; some are supported by small 

Byzantine columns, and all are handsomely carpeted. On each 

side is a huge candle, like our Pascal, inscribed with Arabic 

characters. Large parchment scrolls containing part of the Koran 

are attached to them. Three brass lamps, two plain and one 

ornamented, hang in front of them like huge vases. 

The most striking object is the Mausoleum. It is a kind of 

glass and gold cage, the size of a. small cottage, with a gilt and 

barred door; its green dome is surmounted by a crescent. It is 

surrounded by four candles, also like young trees, two green 

banners droop from each side of the entrance, and they are surmounted 

by a thin round piece of brass, like small plates with 

Koranic inscriptions. All around are small coloured lamps, which 

are lit for afternoon prayers, and for two hours extra on festivals. 

Inside stands a tomb, covered with green silk, on which are 

Koranic texts in gold; an outer pall of black velvet, with a golden 

square in the middle, contains the following inscription:- 

"May God protect us and give us power through the intercession 

of his prophet Yahya (John the Baptist)." 

It is said that a little vault underneath contains a casket 

on which is written, "This casket contains the head of John (the 

Baptist) son of Zachariah," and that the head is still kept there 

to be honoured by the Moslems, and the few strangers admitted.

TM Great MosqtUJ. 169 

I have a right to feel sceptical about the head, because I have 

already seen three. The real head would be buried with the 

body, in or about Machmira; at least, 80 say Eastern scholars. 

The tomb is hung ovcr with lamps and ostrich eggs. These 

latter are the chief ornament of all holy places, and are supposed 

to bring good fortune; doubtless the Mosque borrowed the practice 

from the Greek Christians. Opposite the tomb is a kind of 

marble temple, tent-shaped and railed in, for the Shaykhs. 

The four piers which support the dome are covered with 

Kor8.nic inscriptions and ancient Arabic carvings; and the cupola 

has a gallery and balustrade like those of St. Paul's.. Near the 

door leading to the court, a place like a summer-house with a 

divan is used by the l\luezzins, when they call to prayer inside 

the mosque; from this" dakkeh " also the Shaykhs announce 

their decrees to the people. Two small fountains of white marble, 

which are very attractive, stand at each side of this entrance to 

the court. They are for ablution before prayers. 

They have red and yellow domes-the gold and green leaves, 

the inscriptions, and the marble fringes are inlaid alternately with 

white and black stone; they are adorned with large green and 

gold sun rays, and the remnants of the old decorations are truly 

magnificent. One might sit and weep at all this by-gone 

splendour, destroyed by the fury of war and civil dissensions. 

Large patches of wall show gold grounds, picked out with grecn 

and black, representing palm-trees, fruit, houses, and scrolls; 

many of the capitals are also covered with tesselated gold work. 

The bits of mosaic ceiling are like a beautiful carpet, or the 

border of a Cashmere shawl. 

Three windows of delicately-close carved wood, whose interatices 

are filled not with stained glass but crystal, have a very 

beautiful effect. There is a curiously coloured and variegated 

pulpit, carved and made of various coloured stones, in peppercaster 

shape; a flight of stairs lead up to it. 

Let us now pass into the large paved court adjoining the l\losque. 

In the middle is a jet a:eau under a marble dome, At the end of 

the court is a short, squat dome, supported on columns, which 

they tell us has been shut up for three hundred years; it is, I 

know, opened about once in five years, and contains only shreds


stands before us, with large marble fountains and their goldfish, 

orange and lemon trees, jessamine and other perfumed 

shrubs, springing from a tesselated pavement, and kept moist 

by two or three little Jets d'ea'U. Flowering creepers and 

shrubs are trained about the lattice work, shedding shade and 

sweets. The apartments open into the court. The Ka'ah, or open 

alcove, with raised floor and open front, looks on the court; the 

stone pavement and raised dais are covered with velvet and gold 

cushions on three sides. The walls are a mass of mosaics in 

gold, ebony, and mother-of-pearl, with tiny marble columns and 

many alto relievos. The reception-room inside is similar, but 

richer; we shall all sit round a beautiful white marble fountain, 

whose bubbling is most refreshing in the parched weather. 

Khawaja Ambar, another Jew, is also building a palace, but 

it is in more modern style, and therefore less pleasing to me. 

The fashionable luxury is rich, buttoo rich; Lisbona's is tasteful 

as well as old. However, no one can find fault with Khawaja 

Ambar's idea of comfort. He has attached to his house a private 

synagogue and Turkish bath, and he is buying up all the old 

tenements around him to spread his establishment over as much 

ground as he can; unhappily he is also burning their carved 

wood and ancient ornaments, in which he sees no grace and 

beauty, and laughs at me for my heartache. 

We will now inspect Ali Beg's house, which is, par eeeellenee, 

the grandest in Damascus. There is no concealment in this case. 

It has a noble exterior, with a vaulted arch, and a winding entrance 

which seems to bid defiance to its enemies. I could 

fancy the tramp of Salah ed Din's cavalry passing through it, or 

a noisy party returning from one of Hartin el Rashid's nocturnal 

escapades. You can count seven courts. The outer patio contains 

the Salam-lik, or reception-room, of the master, approached 

by a winding passage, to avoid the possibility of strangers or 

servants seeing into that region of privacy; the last, which is the 

grandest, belongs to the harim, This is the most highly ornamented; 

it is, I would persuade myself, rather a pretty idea, like 

keeping a bird in a gilded cage, to sing when one wants to be 

amused. The plan is the same throughout all the houses, but, of 

course, there is en infinite variety of detail.

Ali Beg'8 House. 173 

Now we are in the court, famous for its immensity; the house, 

in the form of an oblong square, stands around it, and contains, 

they say, 300 rooms. It belongs to two brothers; and it seems 

to me as if several different families, all related to the owners 

-perhaps their mother and sisters, their aunts, and their wives, 

their cousins, and all their children-live together. We will 

not ask to see allover the house, which might be considered 

unceremonious, but we will visit the chief wife. The children, 

strange enough, have all yellow hair and blue eyes, like Englanders. 

They will allow us to walk about the court, and there 

is one beautiful room which we must not miss. Their father, or 

grand-father, was a rich man, who loved luxury and refinement, 

with regal ideas. His Liwsn (reception-hall) is shaped, as usual, 

like three rooms thrown into one; the middle, somewhat lower, 

after the old fashion, than the other two, is paved with marble, 

and a fountain plays in the centre. All three are carpeted and 

furnished on three sides with low divans and cushions of embroidered 

satin, velvet, and gold. The walls are inlaid, wainscoted, 

carved, and gilt; the ceilings are formed of painted rafters, and 

lathes in Arabesque, This Liwan has not its equal in Damascus. 

The fountain is composed of grotesque figures, cut in black and 

coloured marble. The windows are delicately carved, and full of 

the choicest old stained glass, every one a design-a palm-leaf or a 

rose. Look at the medallions on the walls, of white marble with 

a rim of black stone, and an outer circle of gold. Admire the 

beautiful colours, how rich and how blending; the prodigies of 

carved work in ivory, ebony, mother-of-pearl, and choicest pietra 

dura and marqueterie. The residence is that of dream-land. 

Nothing can convey to the English mind a really good Damascus 

Liwsn, or reception-room, and this one especially, except the 

Alhambra at the Sydenharn Palace, and that seems modern and 

small and tawdry in comparison with the ancient Damascus 

palaces. The master of the one I am describing does not know it 

is beautiful; he cares nothing for it, and it is dropping to pieces 

with decay. The stones of the court-yard are rooted up, and grass 

grows between them. I asked him why he did not repair his 

palace, and he shrugged his shoulders, and replied with a question, 

"What matter?" I have seen the children chipping off the


gold and marble' for amusement. It is said that they have 

lost their fortune, and that though they live here they cannot 

afford to keep this remnant of ancient glory from "rack and 

ruin." Yet even in decay it is a beau ideal, realizing all we have 

heard concerning the marble palaces of Damascus. 

We will now ride out to the Jerid ground, which is about 

three quarters of an hour out of town. Our way lies down the 

Maydan, and out of the Buwwabet ...\llah. An open space near a 

water-mill on the banks of the Barada has been chosen for the 

"sport." The Gate of Allah is very gay to-day, on account of the 

feast, the men are going out dressed in their best, and crowds of 

women are already sitting by every stream; we hear the hum of 

their chatter from afar. As you can tell by their gaudy trappings, 

the horsemen are on the same errand as ourselves. They have, in 

point of fact, besides feasts, three Sundays a week: Friday for 

the Moslems,Saturday for the Jews, and Sunday for the Christians. 

To-day, however, the feast and the Jerid make every one gay and 

idle. 

The best horsemen now form in two opposite lines. They 

have little sticks like javelins, but not pointed. One rides out to 

challenge the other side, feinting to throw his Jerid; the other 

accepts and rides after him, throwing it, if occasion offers, at the 

antagonist, who stoops to avoid the missile. They ride at full 

speed for a hundred yards, hang down by one stirrup at the side, 

looking behind to avoid the blow, and suddenly wheel round, 

guiding their horses by pressure of the knee. The action is 

exaggerated, yet I wish that we used more of it and less of the 

whip and spur in England. Some men lose their temper, and then 

there is real fighting. It is possible to wound the horse, and to 

kill the horseman, but this would be held unpardonable on the 

play-ground. Sometimes they are hard hit, but all have a good 

idea of fair play. If a man has an unfair advantage, or comes too 

close to his adversary, he will not throw. The horses understand 

their business as well as the men, and I believe they enjoy it; but 

it is hard work, and two or three hours send them away as hot and 

tired as if they had run a steeple-chase. I often bring my horses 

down here when I cannot exercise them enough; two of the best 

Jerid men give them half an hour, and I ride them quietly home.


All the Europeans, even the Protestants, contributed liberally; 

but the native Christians seemingly had no objection to feed 

the dogs, or become sport for vagabonds, 80 long as they kept 

their piastres in their pockets: thus the project fell to the 

-ground. I have since tried to carry out what he commenced, 

and failed. 

The Jews' Cemetery is yonder, like ours, on the side of the highway, 

and nothing but a big stone on each grave distinguishes the 

spot where a man lies buried from the rest of the plain. But they 

at least put their dead under ground, so that they cannot be profaned. 

The best of the three is the Protestant English Cemetery, 

a square walled around. It is dreary and sad, but decent. I have 

borrowed the key. Notice how fast fever and dysentery fill these 

graves with English. Poor Mrs. Rogers, my predecessor, died of 

cholera, and there is her tomb.. She is said to have remarked, "If 

cholera reaches Damascus, I shall be the first victim." And so it 

happened. At the further end lies poor Buckle. He came here 

to travel, and he died of fever, in May, 1862. How many dinner 

tables in London have I seen him enliven by his brilliant conversation. 

I remember one in particular, at Lord H 's, in 

the season of 1861. We were twenty-five at dinner, and all, save 

myself, were distinguished for some exploit or literary work. 

Buckle was the life of the party, and he transfixed me by saying, 

" Paul! Paul of Tarsus! a veery much ov-er-ra-ted man!" How 

little he thought that soon he would be buried in the City where 

St. Paul was converted. How little I thought that a few years 

later I should stand here by his grave. 

That new marble grave next to Buckle's is that of the 

Countess Harley Teleki. She was a very handsome woman, apparently 

about thirty years of age, exceedingly clever, but 

eccentric. An only child, she proposed to her widowed mother to 

make an excursion up the Nile, and to Syria. They were accompanied 

by two collegians, a friend and a relative. Her fate had 

been a sad one, but of that I need not speak. On this journey she 

was attacked by the usual Syrian pest, and instead of delaying a 

day or two to take care of herself, she persisted in riding to the 

journey's end. Her state was suspected by their Dragoman, Paolo 

Sapienza, a Maltese-a most estimable man, who had studied

Burial-Gro-unds. 177 

medicine in his younger days.· His conduct throughout deserves 

the greatest praise. The friend who was travelling with them, 

l\[r. H. L--, rode off at once, for three days, never stopping 

on the road until he arrived, to procure a litter and a medical 

man from Damascus. It was not easy to armnge these matters, . 

and she arrived here with Sapienza just as they were setting 

out to meet her. Poor Madame Tcleki was conveyed to the hotel, 

and our Doctor Nicom attended her. I instantly went down, 

and, apologizing for my intrusion, begged leave to nurse her, at 

least till the arrival of her mother, who was coming on slowly with 

the young relative. She willingly accepted my offer, but she 

only lived six days, and, to our great relief, her mother and the 

rest of the party arrived on the fourth day. I have no right to 

detail the last illness, or private affairs of friends or acquaintance, 

but it can do no harm to tell you that she made a most beautiful 

and holy end. Her last words were the noblest and most unselfish 

that could be uttered by a deserted wife,and she said, as her head 

sank on the pillow, "Don't disturb me! How I wish that you 

were all as happy as I am !" When her desk was opened, there 

was found in it a letter written to her mother before they started 

on their tour. It appeared that she had been reading Buckle's 

" Civilization," after his death, which had much excited her, and she 

said, " If I were to die in Damascus, I should like to be buried by 

Buckle." Strange presentiment! So we fulfilled her requestthe 

vacant space seemed as if fate had kept it for her. We 

covered her coffin with the Union Jack, and, although of different 

persuasions, we all united in prayer over her remains. My husband, 

accompanied by the Missionaries, the Dragomans, Kawwasses, and 

all thc English, with the two young men as chief mourners, formed 

a procession, and she was carried to the grave, whilst I remained 

to take care of the poor mother. 

I begin to see some figures peering about, and one imitated 

the O\VI three times, and was answered from the Jewish burial 

ground. Let us push as fast as we can to Bdb Sharki, I dare say 

Serur l\gha is fidgety about us, and the human jackals are probaLly 

only waiting to know if he has closed the gate. Once there 

• I see by a late paper that he albahas passcd away to his reward, He wu a 

good man. 

If

178 The Inner Life of 8yJ-ia. 

we are safe; but keep in the walking tracks, and do not cross the 

sand. You cannot see the caves in the dark. 

Here we are, exactly in twenty minutes, and the old officer of 

police, shaking his head, lets us in at the gate. He evidently 

thinks that we shall do this once too often. I am sure you are 

dreadfully tired. You have had hard work. But to-night you 

may sleep with the satisfactory thought that you have seen everything 

in or about Damascus,except the Shazlis. I must not forget 

that you are anxious about our post-office, our church, our money 

matters, and other things not generally known. On this side of 

the Lebanon, only a fortnight from home, we feel at least 10,000 

miles from England, much farther than we did in Brazil, where, 

in the interior, or in out-of-the-way parts, we were six weeks' 

distance. 

With regard to the church, I will take care that you are at the 

Irish Presbyterian at eleven o'clock, or at three in the afternoon, 

on Sunday-or both, if you will. You will hear an excellent 

sermon. Our letters are carried by a special messenger to Beyrout 

once a fortnight. He brings up the mail from England. As soon 

as he reaches the Consulate, the correspondence for Baghdad is 

sorted, sealed up in bags, and dispatched by our faithful Jewish 

post-master, Smouhs, with a camel-courier across the Desert; he 

reaches his destination in a fortnight, and he brings back the 

Baghdad mail in time to catch the Beyrout steamer. There are 

perpetual steamers from Beyrout to Alexandria, three days' sail, 

but hence you must, except for Constantinople, find another ship 

to every other part of the world. The lines that sail three times 

a month are the French Messageries,the Austrian Lloyd's, and the 

Egyptian steamers; these run regularly, not counting chance 

vessels. The Austrian 'Lloyd's arrive at Beyrout from Alexandria 

on alternate Mondays,and leave Beyrout for Alexandria every following 

Thursday night or Friday morning. The Russian steamers 

sail from Alexandria every second Saturday, and reach Beyrout 

the following Tuesday morning. They leave Beyrout again for 

Alexandria the following Saturday evening. Only one steamer 

goes straight to England, and that is the Pappayanni line, which 

plies between Beyrout and Liverpool, making a round of twentysix 

days. I have heard that they are very comfortable, and I know

Money Matters-Eclipse of the Moon. 179 

that they are most civil, obliging, and trustworthy. There are no 

banks in Damascus; it is deemed unsafe. You must have a Bank 

Post-Bill made out in your name upon the Imperial Ottoman Bank 

in Beyrout. You can cash it here in napoleons through the 

Jewish money-lenders, Ishak Tobi, or Elias, at the small loss of 

5 per cent. 'I'he money is the worst of all our troubles. There 

are not less than twenty-five different coins of all nations, some 

differing only a quarter of a piastre (one halfpenny) from one 

another, and looking exactly alike. To make a mistake with a 

native of the poorer classes of a quarter of a piastre in your own 

favour, would secure his or her everlasting dislike and suspicion, 

even if the wronged one had been with you and loved you for 

years, during which time you had heaped favours without end 

upon his or her head. 

Here we are again at Salahfyyeh. All the people are out on 

their house-tops. 'Vhy are they howling, firing guns, and clapping 

fire-irons and sticks, cymbals and tom-toms, and beating tin-pots 

with spoons? Does it not look like Bedlam broke loose? I am 

laughing at your astonishment, and at what you must think of us. 

No! it is not a "'Vake" or marriage, nor a religious ceremony, nor 

a mutiny, nor a massacre. If I make you guess till you guess 

rightly we shall stay out all night. There is an eclipse of the 

mOOD. They know enough of the elements and the solar system 

to know when there is anything amiss with nature, but not to 

know why, So when they see only a wee bit of the moon at a 

time when they ought to see the whole of it, they think a big 

animal is eating it, and that that little morsel is hanging out of 

its mouth. Therefore, if they can make noise enough to frighten 

the wolf, bear, or panther away, it may in its fright drop the 

" Kammar," or moon. They have helped the mOOD and the sun 

many times in this way, and have always succeeded-at last.

Revival of Ohristlanity. 183 

8. Without " Fayz Ullah" (Grace of God) this spiritual unity cannot 

attained; but God favours those who fervently desire such unification. 

The general belief in these tenets has given the Shazlis Order & doubtful 

name amongst the multitude, who consider it to profess, like the "Babia " 

of Persia, opinions of a subversive and anti-Islamitic nature. The orthodox 

portion, however, is not blamed, and at Damascus one of its members is a 

conscientiously religious Moslem, the Sayyid Abd el Kadir, of Algerian 

fame, whose name is still so well-known in Europe, and who is beloved and 

respected by all The Syrian Shazlis are distinguished by white robes and 

white skull-caps and turbans, of which they allow"the inner llap to protrude 

a little from the folds behind the ears. 

Abd el Karim llatar and his acolytes used to meet for private worship 

at his house in the Maydan suburb, and they spent nights and days in 

praying for enlightenment at the Throne of Grace. Their numbers varied 

from sixty to seventy, and even more. Presently, after persevering in this 

new path, some of them began to be agitated by doubts and disbelief; the 

religion did not satisfy them, they anxiously sought for a better. They 

became uncertain, disquieted, undetermined, yet unable, for fear of being 

betrayed, to declare even one to another the thought which tormented 

them. Two years had been spent in this anxious, unhappy state, 

each thinking himself the only one thus subject to the tortures of con.. 

science. 

At length they were assured by a vision that it was the religion of 

Christ which they were seeking. Yet such was their dread of treachery 

that none could trust his secret with his neighbour till they had sounded 

one another, and had found that the same idea was uppermost in every 

mind. Presently about forty of them, headed by Abd el Karim Matar, 

met for their usual night prayers; after prolonged devotional acts, all fell 

asleep, and Our Lord was pleased to appear to all of them separately. They 

awoke simultaneously, and one, taking courage, recounted his vision to the 

others, when each responded, "I also saw Him!" Christ had so consoled, 

comforted, and exhorted them to follow His faith, and they were 80 filled 

with a joy they had never known, that they were hardly dissuaded from 

running about the streets to proclaim that Christ is God; but they were 

admonished that they would only be slaughtered, and rob the City of all 

hope of entering the same Fold. 

They wanted a Guide, Director, and Friend who could assist their 

tottering steps in the new way which they were now treading, and they 

heartily prayed that God would be pleased mercifully to provide them 

with the object of their desire. One night, lU'ter again meeting, 88 before, 

for acts of devotion, sleep overcame them, and they saw themselves in a


Christian church, where an old man with a long white beard, dressed in 

a coarse brown serge garment, and holding a lighted taper, glided before 

them, and smiling benignantly never ceased to cry, "Let those who want 

the Truth follow me." 

On awaking, each told his dream to his brother Dervish, and they 

agreed to occupy themselves in seeking the person who had appeared to 

them. They searched in vain through the city and its environs for a 

period of three months, during which they continued to pray. One day, 

it 80 happened that one of the new converts, H-- K--, now at 

J--, entered by chance the Monastery of the RR. Fathers of the Terra 

Santa, near Bab Tuma, the north-eastem part of Damascus. This is an 

establishment of Spanish Franciscans, who enjoy French protection by 

virtue of a Papal Bull and of immemorial usage. What was his astonishment 

to see in the Superior, Fray Emanuel Forner, the personage who had 

appeared to him in his dream! This saintly man, Latin Cure and Franciscan 

of the Terra Santa, approached and asked the Moslem what he was 

seeking. The neophyte replied by simply telling his tale and that of his 

comrades, and then ran speedily to inform the others, who flocked next 

day to the monastery. The poor Padre was greatly perplexed. He reflected 

that visions do not happen every day. He feared some political 

intrigue, of which Damascus is a focus ; he doubted the sincerity of his 

Moslemfriends, and he dreaded to cause for the sake of "the forty II another 

massacre like that of 1860. On the other hand, he feared still more to 

lose forty sincere souls by refusing to them baptism. However, concealing 

his agitation, he received them with touching kindness, he gave them 

books which taught them all the Christian doctrine, and he instructed 

them how to meet in prayer for mutual comfort and support. Lastly, he 

distributed to each a crucifix, the symbol of their new faith. This event 

took place in the early spring of 1870. Fray Emanuel remained for 

about four months in this state of dilemma, praying to know the will of 

God, and he was duly admonished as to what he should do. Having performed 

his task on earth, he fell asleep quietly one day about three months 

afterwards. Some said the death was caused by climate; and many of his 

most intimate friends, living a few hours from the convent, did not hear 

of it till late in November, 1870, so quiet was the event kept. 

The converts, now numbering some 250, held regular prayer-meetings 

in one another's houses, and these could not fail to attract the notice of 

the neighbouring Moslems. Later still a crucifix or two was seen, and 

suspicion ripened into certainty. The local authorities were at once 

informed of what had happened. The Ulems (learned men), who in El 

Islam represent the Christian priesthood, were in consternation. They 

held several fM!88ions at the house of Shaykh Dabyan, a noted fanatic

Bevit'al of Christianity. 187 

oppose: he never concealed his conviction that treaties and firmans upon 

such a subject as Moslem conversion are 80 much waste-paper, and he 

threatened all who changed their faith with death, either by law or 

otherwise--a threat which was rarely spoken in vain. And he used 

persecution with more readiness, as it tended to conciliate the pious of his 

own creed, who were greatly scandalized by his openly neglecting the 

duties of his religion, such as prayer and fasting, and by other practices 

which may not be mentioned. 

The Governor-General opened the sessions by thus addressing the 

accused:- 

Are you Shazli 1 

Answer : We once were, we now are not. 

Gov.-Gen.: \Vhy do you meet in secret, and what is done at those 

meetings 1 

Answer: We read, we converse, we pray, and we pass our time like 

other Damascus people. 

. Gov.-Gen.: Why do you visit the Convent of the Faranj (Franks or 

Europeans) 1 

Abu Abbas: Is it not written in our law that when a Moslem passes 

before a Christian church or convent, and finds himself hurried by the 

hour for prayer, he is permitted to enter and even to pray there 1 

Gov.-Gen. : You are Giaours (infidels) I 

Abu Abbas (addressing one of the UlemfJ.): What says our law of one 

who calls a faithful man Giaour 1 

Answer: That he is himself a Giaour. 

The Governor-General was confounded by this decision, which is strictly 

correct. He remanded the fourteen to their respective prisons. Here they 

spent three months awaiting in vain the efforts of some intercessor. But 

they had been secretly tried, or their number might have attracted public 

attention ; the affair was kept in darkness, and even two years afterwards 

not a few of the Europeans resident at Damascus had never heard of it. 

The report reached the Consular corps in a very modified form-persecution 

had been made to assume the semblance of political punishment. 

The Russian Consul, ll. Macceef, succeeded in procuring their temporary 

release, but this active and intelligent officialwas unable to do more. The 

British Consul could hardly enter into a matter which was not brought 

officiallybefore his notice. The' Consul of France and the Spanish Vice 

Consul took scant notice of the Shazli movement, perhaps being unwilling 

to engage in open warfare with the Governor-General, possibly deeming 

the matter one of the usual tricks to escape recruitment or to obtain a 

foreign passport. The neophytes, however, found an advocate in }'ray 

Emanuel Forner. This venerable man addressed (March 29, 18iO) a


touching appeal to the General of his Order, and his letter appeared in 

the Oorreepondamee de Bome (June 11, 1870). The Franco-Prussian war, 

however,absorbed all thoughts in Europe, and the publication fellstill-bom 

from the Press. 

Fray Emanuel relates in his letter that one day, when visiting the 

neophytes before their imprisonment-he modestly passes over the important 

part which he had taken in helping and protecting them-heasked them 

if they could answer for their constancy. The reply was: "We believe 

not simply through your teachings of the Word, and through our reading the 

religious books which you gave us, but because the Lord Jesus Christ has 

vouchsafed to visit us and to enlighten us Himself, whilst the BlessedVirgin 

has done likewise !" adding, "How could we without such a miracle have 

80 easily become Christians l" The good priest would not express his 

doubts, for fear of "offending one of these little ones." He felt an ardent 

desire to inquire into the visions and the revelations to which they alluded. 

But he did not neglect to take the necessary precautions. Assembling his 

brethren, and presiding himself, he began with the unfortunate Salih, and 

he examined and cross-questionedthe converts separately. He found them 

unanimous in declaring that on the first night when they witnessed an 

apparition, they had prayed for many hours, and that slumber had overcome 

them, when the Saviour Jesus Christ appeared to them one by one. 

Being dazzled by the light they were very much afraid j but one of them 

taking courage, said: "Lord, may I speak 1" He answered: "Speak." 

They asked: "Who art thou, Lord 1" The appa.rition replied: "I am 

the Truth whom thou seekest. I am Jesus Christ, the Son of God." 

Awakening, agitated and frightened, they looked one at the other, and 

one took courage and spoke, the rest responding simply, "I also saw 

Him." Christ had once more 80 consoled, comforted, and exhorted them 

to follow His path, and they were filled with such ineffablejoy, love, faith 

and gratitude, that, but for his admonishing them (as He used to admonish 

the disciples), they could hardly restrain themselves from rushing into the 

streets and from openly preaching the Gospel to the Moslem City. On 

another occasion the Blessed Virgin stood before them with the child 

J e8US in her anna, and, pointing to Him, said three times in a clear and 

distinct voice, "My son Jesus Christ, whom you see, is the Troth." 

There are many other wonderful revelations whose truth I can vouch for, 

but I feel a delicacy of thrusting them before people who have a difficulty 

in believing. Indeed, I have kept back half of what I know, and I am 

only giving the necessary matter. 

Of the fourteen Christian converts remanded to prison two were 

suffered to escape. The relations of Mohammed Dfb and MaIjan arranged 

matters with the authorities, and succeeded in proving an alibi. Abd el

Revival of O/l,riBtianity. 189 

Karim Matar, the Chief of the Shazlis, who had been placed in confinement 

under the suspicion of being a Christian, fell ill, and his relatives, by 

giving presents and by offering bail, carried him off to his native village, 

Darayya. As he was now bed-ridden, the family gathered around him 

crying "Tstash'had !" That is to say, "Renew the faith" (by bearing 

witness to Allah and his prophet Mohammed). The invalid refused, 

turning his face towards the wall whilst his cruel relatives struck and 

maltreated him. The cry was incessantly repeated, and 80 was the refusal 

At last such violence was used that the unfortunate Abd el Karim expired, 

the Protomartyr of the Revival. 

On the night of Ramazan, I.A.H. 1286 (December, A.D. 1869), the 

" twelve" (a curious coincidence that it was the number of the first 

Apostles in this very land) who remained in prison were secretly sent, 

ironed, 'Via Beyrout, to the dungeons of Chanak Kalessi (the Dardanelles 

fortress). Thence they were shipped off in a craft so cranky and dangerous 

that they were wrecked twice, at Rhodes and at Malta. At last 

they were landed at Tripoli in Barbary, and they were finally exiled to 

the distant interior settlement of Murzuk. Their wives and children, then 

numbering sixty-two, and now fifty-three, were left at Damascus to starve 

in the streets, but for the assistance of their fellow-converts and of the Terra 

Santa Convent. It is a touching fact that if one of these poor converts 

has anything, he will quickly go and sell it, and use the profit in common, 

that all the brethren may have a little to eat. The Porte is inexorable, 

even H.I.AI. of Austria was, it is reported, unable to procure the return of 

the exiles. 

I call upon the world that worships Christ to look to this high-handed 

violation of treaty, this wicked banishment of innocent men. Catholic 

and Protestant are in this case both equally interested. The question at 

once concerns not only the twelve unfortunate exiles and their starving 

families-it involves the grand principle of religious toleration, which 

interests even the atheist and the infidel, throughout the Turkish Empire, 

throughout the Eastern world. Upon the answer depends whether 

Christianity and civilization shall be allowed free growth and absolute 

development. 

AmongHt the Shazli converts was a private soldier of the Nizam, or 

. regulars, aged 23, and bearing the highest character. About five months 

after the movement commenced, the soldier, Ahmed el Sahh&r, being in 

barracks, retired to a comer for prayer and meditation, when suddenly 

our Saviour stood before him, and said, "D08t thou believe in Je8US 

Christ, the Son of God 1 I am He." The youth at once replied, like the 

man blind from his birth, "Lord, I believe." Jesus said to him, "Thou 

shalt not always be a soldier; thou shalt return free to thy home ; " upon


at Beyrout, M. Joachim Naijar, began about 1869 to attend the Protestant 

service, and for two months before his incarceration he professed himself a 

Christian, although he had not been baptised. He is described by all who 

know him as a simple and sincere man, gifted with great strength of will. 

He was waylaid, beaten, and finally cast with exceeding harshness into 

prison at Beyrout, by the Governor, Rauf Pasha, who replied to all representations 

that he was unable to release him; he acted, in fact, under 

superior authority. The convert was not allowed to see his family, and on 

Thursday, June 29th, he was sent in charge of a policeman to the capital: 

this, too, despite the remonstrances of the Consuls-General for the United 

States and Prussia. 

The Superintendent of the British Syrian school, where the convert has 

a child, took the precaution of dispatching to head-quarters one of the 

employes, the Rev. Mr. Waldmeier, so that energetic action began even 

before the anival of Haij Hassan. The Wali commenced by treating with 

contempt her Majesty's Consul's strong appeals to his justice; he openly 

ignored the treaty, blaming him for not having quoted the actual article, and 

he declined to permit the interference of strangers in the case of a subject 

of H.I.M. the Sultan. He maintained that he had a right to send for the 

neophyte in order that the latter might be "counselled;" and for that 

purpose he placed him under arrest in the house of the most bigoted 

Moslem in Syria, the chief of police, Mir Alai (Colonel) MuStafa Bey, since 

twice disgraced. He complained strongly of the conduct of Protestant 

missionaries in Syria, accusing them of secretly proselytizing, though he 

admitted in the same sentence that the convert Hassan had openly attended 

a Christian church for some time. On the next day he ungraciously 

refused Captain Burton's request that the Presbyterian missionaries (Rev. 

Messrs. Wright, Crawford, and Scott) might be allowed access to the 

neophyte. About mid-day on Friday, June 30th, Haij Hassan, who 

had been duly disciplined by the police, was sent for, and locking the 

door, was asked whether the convert was not in fear of being strangledwords 

which had a peculiar significancy. A price for apostasy, which 

rose to 30,000 piastres, was then offered. This was stoutly refused by 

the neophyte, who was returned to arrest. Presently it was known 

that H.B.M.'s Consul had telegraphed for permission to proceed to Constantinople 

to represent to his Ambassador the state of things in Syria 

within his district, and Hajj Hassan was ordered to return under the 

charge of a policeman to Beyrout. The new Christian, however, was 

warned that he must quit that port together with his family within 

twenty days, under pain of being sent to Constantinople handcuffed, or 

as the native phrase is "in wood." 

The case of H'\ij Hassan came to a lame and impotent conclusion. He

Revival oj (JhriBtianity. 193 

had been delivered out of the Moslem stronghold, Damascus, to the 

safe side of the Lebanon. The Protestant Christians of Beyrout, with 

their Schools, Missions, and Consuls-General to back them up, should have 

kept him at Beyrout, and the \Vali should have been compelled either 

to eat his own words or to carry out his threat. In the latter case the 

convert should have been accompanied to Constantinople by a delegate 

from the Missions, and the Sublime Porte should have been obliged to 

decide whether she would or would not abide by her treaties and 

flrmans, The plea that exile was necessary to defend the convert from 

his own co-religionists, that banishment was for his own benefit, is simply 

absurd. Either the Porte can or she cannot prot-ect her Christian CODverts. 

In the latter case they must be protected for her. Never, probably, 

has there been so good an opportunity for testing Turkey's profession 

of liberalism, and the Turks are too feeble and too cunning to let 

another present itself. 

In their first fright certain Beyrout European Christians withdrew 

their protection from Hajj Hassan. 

Hajj Hassan was subsequently removed from Beyrout to Abeigh, an 

Anglo-American (U.S.) mission station in the Lebanon, probably by the 

exertions of Dr. Thomson, author of "The Land and the Book," who distinguishes 

himself in Beyrout by daring to have an opinion and to expreas 

it, though unfortunately he stands alone and unsupported. On July 20th, 

Haij Hassan was to be shipped off by night to Alexandria, where he was 

expected to "find good employ." Suddenly his passport was refused by 

the local authorities, and he was hidden in the house of a Consular 

Dragoman. The Porte, it was said, had scnt a secret despatch, ordering 

him to be transported to Crete, Cyprus, or one of the islands in the 

Archipelago, where his fate may easily be divined. At length a telegram 

arrived from Constantinople, and the result was that, after a fortnight'. 

detention by sickness, Hajj Hassan was sent off by the French mail of 

Friday, August 11th. Verily, the Beyroutines are a feeble folk. They 

allowed themselves to be shamefully defeated by the Wali when he was 

grossly in the wrong. 

I saw at the mission in Damascus, and obtained leave to copy, the 

following testimonial addressed to Captain Burton, and that officer's reply. 

"To H.B.M's. Consul at Damascus. 

" Sir,-We beg to tender to you our heartiest thanks for your prompt 

decisive action in the case of Hassan, the converted ){osl('n1, and also to 

congratulate you on the result of your determination and firmness. 

"For some time past we had heard that a Moslem converted to Pr0testantism 

at Beyrout had become subject to considerable persecution. 

A convert more obscure than himself has been put out of the way and 

o


has not since been heard of ; and Hassan' had been subjected to a series 

of arrests and imprisonments, and had several times narrowly escaped 

assassination. The chief Consulates, however, had become publicly 

interested in him, so that his safety from legal execution seemed ensured ; 

and as he was always accompanied by some one to protect him from as 

8888ins he seemed for the time to be safe. But on the 29th of June we 

were surprised to find that he was being transported to Damascus, having 

been arrested and bound in chains. The English colony in Beyrout 

became alarmed, as they declared that none 80 transported to Damascus 

ever returned again. Two agents of the mission were dispatched from 

Beyrout, one preceding the prisoner to give us information as to what 

had taken place, and the other accompanying the prisoner to watch what 

"became of him.. On receiving intelligence of the convert's transportation 

to this city, the missionaries of the three missions at Damascus 

resolved to lay the case before you, but on doing 80 found that you had, 

with your usual energy, already taken up the case, and categorically 

demanded the release of the prisoner. And though the authorities 

ignored the firman granting civil and religious liberty to the people 

of this empire, and denied your right to interfere on behalf of the 

prisoner, the unflinching stand you took by the concessions of the 

Ratti-Sherif, secured the release of the prisoner: you have thus vindicated 

the cause of humanity, for on the day on which the prisoner 

escaped through your intervention, the Moslem authorities strangled 

in the Great Mosque of Damascus a Moslem convert to Christianity. 

The man had made application to the Irish American Mission for protection, 

and declared that he lived in daily fear of strangulation. He was 

imprisoned in the Great Mosque, and strangled &8 they say by St. John 

the Baptist, and then carried away by one man and thrown into a hole 

like a dog. ' 

"This accident proves that your uncompromising firmness with the 

authorities was an act of pure mercy, and that the worst apprehensions 

of the Beyrout missionaries were not unfounded. But more important 

atill, you have asserted the binding character of the spiritual privileges of 

the Christian subjects of the Porte, contained in the firman of 1856, and 

which, according to Fuad Pasha's letters to Lord Stratford de RedclifFe, 

comprises Cabsolutely all proselytes.' 

"We are sure, Sir, that your conduct in this affair will receive the 

unqualified approbation of the best public opinion in Christendom, and 

we have no doubt it will receive, as it merits, the warm approval of your 

own Government. 

u We who were near and anxious spectators of the proceedings in this 

affair cannot too warmly tmpreII our 8eIl18 of the satisfaction with which

BeuitJal of Ohristianity. 195 

we witnessed the fearless, firm, and efficient manner in which you conducted 

this important case until the convert was permitted to leave this 

city. 

(Signed) 

"E. B. FRANKEL, Missionary of the London Jews' Society. 

ccJAMES ORR SCOTT, M.A., Missionary of the Irish Presbyterian Church, 

"FANNY JAKES, Lady Superintendent of the British Syrian Schoola, 

Damascus. 

" WILLIAM WRIGHT, A.B., Missionary of the Irish Presbyterian Church, 

Damascus. 

" JOHN CRAWPORD, Missionary of the United Presbyterian Church of 

North America at Damascus. 

"ELLEN WILSON, Lady Superintendent of the British Syrian Schools, 

Zahleh. 

"Damascus, 12th July, 1871." 

Captain Burton's reply to the Rev. E. B. Frankel, Rev. J. Orr Scott, 

Miu James, Rev. W. Wright, Rev. John Crawford, Mi88Wilson:- 

" Beludan, July 19th, 1871. 

"I have the pleasure to return my warmest thanks for your letter this 

day received, in which you have formed 80 ftattering an estimate of my 

services as Her Majesty's Consul for Damascus. Nor must I forget to 

express my gratitude to you for the cordial support and approval of my 

proceedings connected with your missions which you have always extended 

to me. This friendly feeling has greatly helped to lighten the difficulties 

of the task that lay before me in 1869. You all know, and none can 

better know, what was to be done when I assumed charge of this Consulate; 

you are acquainted with the several measures taken by me, 

honourably, I hope, to our national name, and you are familiar with 

the obstacles thrown in my way, and with the manner in which I met 

them. My task will encounter difficulties for some time. Still the 

prospect does not deter me. I shall continue to maintain the honest 

independence of H.M's. Consulate, to defend our rights as foreigners in 

Syria, and to claim all our privileges to the letter of the law. Should I 

meet, and there is DO fear of its being otherwise, the approval of my 

Chiefs, who know that an official life of twenty-nine years in the four 

quarters of the world is a title to some confidence, I feel assured that w:e 

may look forward to happier times at Damascus, when peace and security 

shall take the place of anxiety and depression. 

"Meanwhile, I recommend to your prudent consideration the present 

state of &train in Syria. A movement which I cannot but characterize

197 

for the man, and gave the required directions respecting him. But 

Hammud was already in Moslem hands; and the normal charge of 

desertion was of course trumped up against him. He was sent with 

a number of other conscripts to the Capital with tied hands, and carrying 

the rations of his fellow-soldiers; and presently a report was spread that 

he had been put to death. 

Hajj Hassan, on returning to Beyrout, informed Mr. Johnson, Consul 

General for the United States, that during his arrest at Damascus the 

soldiers had threatened to U serve him as they had served Hammudeh." 

He went at once to Rauf Pasha, who replied that the man had been 

arrested and sent to head-quarters because he had been conscripted 

two years before at L3.takia and had deserted. This was directly opposed 

to the statement made by Mr. Grierson, namely, that the man had never 

been called upon to serve. Mr. Johnson could do no more, as Hammud 

had made himself amenable to the law of the land, and he seems Dot 

to have taken any steps to decide whether it was a bond, fide desertion. 

He inquired, however, what the punishment would be, and was told that it 

would depend upon circumstances. 

Several people at Beyrout wrote to the Consul at Damascus, begging 

of him to institute a search for the missing man. Shortly afterwards 

letters were dispatched from Beyrout, stating that Hammud had been 

found in the barracks alive and well, and contented with his condition as 

a soldier. What process he has been through to effect such a wonderful 

change we are not informed, nor where he has been hidden during 

its operation. The U counselling" has probably compelled the convert by 

brute force to conceal his convictions. 

Another story in the mouths of men is that a young man, the son of a 

Kazi or judge, has lately suffered martyrdom at Damascus for the crime 

of becoming a Christian. This may possibly be a certain Said el Hamawi, 

who disappeared three or four years ago. Said was a man of education, 

and a Shaykh, who acted Khatib (or scribe and chaplain) to one of 

the regiments. He was convicted of having professed Christianity, and 

was sent for confinement to the Capital When let out of prison he 

repeated his offence, and he has never been heard of since. 

On the morning of the Saturday (July 1) which witnessed the unjust 

sentence of exile pronounced upon Hajj Ha.ssan, a certain Arif Effendi 

ibn Abd el Ghani el Nablusi was found hanging in a retired room of the 

Great Amawi Mosque at Damascus, where he had been imprisoned. No 

inquest was held upon the body, which mayor may not have shown signa 

of violence; it was hastily buried. Some three years before this time, 

Am Effendi, a man of high family, and of excellent education, had 

become a Greek Christian at AtheD8, under the name of Euatathiu.

Revival oj OhristiaAity. 199 

in respect to most foreign countries. . . . All that we can expect 

is, that when she has contracted legal or moral engagements she should 

fulfil them, and that when she is under no engagements she should 

lend a willing ear to counsels which may be in themselves judicious, 

and which aim solely at the promotion of her interests. . . . . 

As regards the justice of the case, we must remember that as far as 

regards the stipulations of the Hatti-i-Humaioun, we are not only entitled 

to advise Turkey in her own interest, in her regard to humanity; in 

her sense of justice, in her desire to be a civilized European power, to 

fulfil those engagements, but we also are entitled to say to her that the 

fulfilment of those stipulations is a matter of moral faith, an obligation to 

which she is absolutely bound, and the disregard of which will entail 

upon her disgrace in the eyes of Europe. . . . We are entitled to 

require from Turkey the execution of her literal engagements."-(Debate 

on Crete and Servia. Mr. Gregory's motion for Correspondence and 

Consular Reports on the Cretan Insurrection, etc., as reported in the 

Evening Mail of February 15-18, 1867.) 

These memorable words deserve quotation the more, as throughout the 

nearer East, especially among the Christian communities, England still 

suft'el'8 under the imputation of not allowing the interests of Christendom 

to weigh against her politics and her sympathy with the integrity of 

the Turkish Empire. Even if we care little for the propagation of 

Christianity, or for the regeneration of Asia, we are bound to see that 

Treaties do not become waste-paper. 

The only step to be taken in North Syria, and to be taken without 

delay, would be to procure the recall and the pardon of the twelve 

unfortunates who were banished in 1870 to Tripoli of Barbary, and to 

Murzuk in Inner Africa. This will be a delicate proceeding: imprudently 

carried out it will inevitably cost the lives of men whose only offence baa 

been that of becoming Christians, and it will only serve to sink their 

families into still deeper misery. But there should be no difficulty of 

success. Our Consul-General at Tripoli could easily defend the lives if 

not the liberties of the neophytes. Her Majesty's Ambassador Extraordinary 

and Plenipotentiary at Constantinople should be directed firmly 

to demand that an officer of high rank be sent from head-quarters, and 

that he should be made duly responsible for landing the exiles in safety at 

Beyrout. Thence they should be transferred to Damascus; their pretended 

offences should be submitted to a regular tribunal, whose action 

would be watched by Her MaJesty's Consul, and when publicly proved to 

be innocent these men should be restored to the bosoms of their familiea, 

whilst the police should be especially charged with their safety. 

Thus will the unhappy province-a land once flowing with milk aDd

200 The Inner LiJe oj Syria. 

honey, now steeped to the lips in poverty and crime-recover froin the 

misery and the semi-starvation under which it has groaned during 

many years. Thus also Christianity may again raise her head in her 

birth-place and in the land of her early increase. Thus shall England 

become to Syria, and through Syria to We3tern Asia, the blessing which 

Syria in the days of the early church was to England, to Europe, and to 

the civilized world. Let her discharge her obligations before her God. 

• • • • • • • • 

Surely it -is time to press for the immediate return of the twelve 

unfortunates exiled to Murzuk, and to impress upon the Ottoman authorities-who, 

upon the death of the Grand-Vizier, Aali Pashi, appeared 

ready to reform a host of abuses-that the friendship of England can be 

secured only by scrupulous fidelity to treaties, especially to those which 

concern religious toleration." 

• • • • • • • 

The Catholic is only bound by Faith to believe in the 

miracles wrought by Jesus Christ; yet at the same time other 

miracles are not condemned by the Church, if we devotionally 

subscribe to them. I have therefore stated the facts laid before 

me. You must admit that the story is very interesting, and you 

will ask my opinion of it. I think that if these things happened 

in the West I might be staggered, but then nothing is 

extraordinary which happens in Syria. I know that l\lrs. Grundy 

does not approve of pilgrimages and miracles, but happily Damascus 

is too insecure a place to be visited by that lady. Long may 

it remain so! Till then we shall call a spade a spade. 

Fray Emanuel Forner, before mentioned, was my Confessor; to 

me he confided his great troubles relative to these people, concerning 

whom I know a great deal more than do the authors of 

the above written story. He begged of me to induce my husband 

to help him by extending English protection to them. Captain 

Burton, however, felt that it was going beyond the boundary of his 

Consular prerogative to interfere in a matter which concerned 

the national religion-he therefore desired me to tell my Confessor 

that his position obliged him to abstain from interfering in 

so interesting a matter, although he could do 80 in cases where the 

Protestant Schools or Missionsformally claimed protection against 

the violation of the treaties and concessions of the Hatti-Sherif. 

He added that the Spanish Consul was the right person for Fray

202 The Inner Life oj Syria. 

like unto ours? Who fought, and bled, and died? Who sacrificed 

their lands, and wealth freely, as our ancestors did in all times, out 

of loyalty to their King? It is convenient now to pander to 

vulgar prejudice, to taunt us with a slight and a sneer on the 

smallest pretext, or without one, in the hopes of ousting us from 

the Court and from the World. But wait a little; the world's 

life is not yet over,and if the Throne, through weak policy, should 

ever totter, which may God avert from us, we shall joyfully go, as 

one man, woman, and child, with our hearts and our lives and all 

we possess in our hands, as we did before, to offer it upon the 

altar of our loyalty. It is no use to discuss the matter now, in 

times of peace; the hour, when it comes, will.prove which is loyal 

and disloyal, which is patriotic and unpatriotic. We will show 

all these men, who to-day dare to talk of loyalty to us, whether 

"blue blood" and old Faith, or Cotton and Cant, love the Throne 

best. I ask nothing better than to prove it in the name of all the 

old Catholics of England; and Pius IX., our good Pope, would 

be the first to bless us for the deed. No Pope has any temporal 

power in England, nor could wish or expect it. The army would 

march to-morrow wherever the Queen ordered, and fight, without 

asking a question. A relative of mine who has the honour 

of being A.D.C. to our beloved Queen, and who is the rigidest 

of all rigid Catholics, said, when the question was first raised, 

" By--! the man whotells me that I am not loyal, had better be 

a couple of stone heavier than I am !" We are still brought up 

with that old-fashioned loyalty, as if it were part of our religion, 

and we are ready to do as we did before when our Sovereign needs 

us. We should almost as soon think of going into our Church and 

tearing the Cross down off the Altar, as of showing any disrespect, 

presumption,disloyalty, or indifferenceto our Queen or her children, 

much less treachery. And in the name of all ancient Catholic 

England I throw my glove down to those who accuse us of it, be 

they who they may. I do not pretend to know anything about our 

converts, but we who have been Catholics from all time " render 

to CleS&r the things that are CEsar's, and to God the things that 

are God's." 

I once heard a story of a lieutenant in some regiment, who was 

honest, steady, and quiet, full of sterling qualities, but he was dull,

BeuitJal of Ohristianity. 203 

reserved, religiously inclined, or less brilliant than his brother 

officers. They laughed at him, and associated but little with him. 

He was well-born, but poor, and without interest, so he remained 

without, in the cold shade, both 'as to promotion and the warmth 

and cheerfulness of friendship or .society. But he never complained, 

he lived on, and did his best. 

Then at last came the Crimean war. A battery was to be 

taken, and the guns were so well pointed at this particular regiment, 

which was the storming party, that they were forced to give 

way. But, in hopes of rallying his own company, this young 

fellow passed all his brother officers with a laugh. He flung his 

shako before him, and sword in hand rushed through a breach 

into the battery, followed by his handful. They never came out 

again. At the mess that" night there was not a man but who 

wished he had better understood his brother officer. They now 

remembered a thousand good qualities and incidents that ought 

to have endeared him to them, and they vainly tried to recall any 

little kindness that they had shown him. All felt ashamed of the 

contempt with which they had treated one in every respect their 

superior. Of that stuff we are made, and when the occasion comes 

we will prove it. 

It is difficult to guess why 80 brilliant, 80 clever a man as 

Mr. Gladstone, should have deemed it necessary to quit office 

with a parting sting to some millions of her Majesty's most 

devoted subjects who had never injured him. We regret it! 

These pages were in the publishers' hands some time before I 

had the pleasure of seeing Dr. J. H. Newman's dignified and 

conclusive letter to the Duke of Norfolk. Needless to say that 

every word of that "strong sweet voice" comes home to our 

hearts; that we thank him for his noble defence of our much 

maligned faith, for his rebuke of our powerful and bitter 

religious adversary; and that our greatest gratification is to see 

the absolute agreement of our sentiments upon this and all other 

Church subjects.

204 TM Inner Life of 8yri4. 

CHAPTER XV. 

PALMYRA, OR TADMOR IN' THE WILDERNES8-8TABLE8 AT 

HOME AND IN CAMP• 

. 

My friend has now left me. She was recalled suddenly to 

England on account of the illness of one of her sons, and the 

following pages are taken from the journal which I kept for and 

forwarded to her periodically. 

Oeptain Burton had wished for some time to visit Palmyra. 

The 'I'ribe EI Mezrab, which usually escorts travellers, had been 

much worsted in some Desert fights with the Wuld Ali, and was 

at the moment too much weakened to be able to guarantee our 

safety. My husband, who never permits any obstacle to hinder 

his progress, determined to travel without the Bedawin, and gave 

me the option of going with him. I was too glad to do so. Everybody 

advised us "not." Every one came and wished us good-bye, 

wept, and thought the idea madness; indeed, so much was said 

that I set out with a suspicion that we were marching to our 

deaths. I now see that the trip was not dangerous, but that we 

were the first to try going alone. After we returned many followed 

our example, but you might go safely eleven times, and 

the twelfth time you might fare ill. When we first spoke of 

it. many of our threateners said that they wanted to come, but 

when the matter was decided, and the day and hour were fixed, 

one bad business at Beyrout, another had planted a field, a third 

had married a wife, and so forth. Our faithful ones dwindled 

to two-the Russian Consul, M. Ionin, and a French traveller, 

the Count de Perrochel. 

Two days before we started, Lady A-- and her husband

Palmyra, or Tadmor in the Wildsrness.. 205 

came into Damascus almost destitute. Near the Dead Sea they 

had been attacked by a party of Bedawin, who had nearly killed 

their Dragoman; their escort had run at once, as escorts mostly 

do; the ruffians had made them dismount, had cut away their 

girths, stirrups, and bridles, and had robbed them of everything. 

Lady A-- saved a very valuable ring by putting it into her 

mouth. The bandits then made them sit down, and sat themselves 

in a row, pointing their muskets at them, while they consulted 

together. Doubtless they agreed that they would eventually 

get the worst of it, for Mr. N. T. Moore, at Jerusalem, is an 

active and zealous Consul, so the travellers were allowed to go 

free after being properly plundered. The proceedings were more 

the action of the bad characters round the town, who call themselves 

Bedawin, than that of real Bedawin. 

I took Lady A-- to see Abd el Kadir, who was delighted 

with the visit, as her father was chiefly instrumental in moving 

Napoleon III. to release him from the Chateau d'Amboise. 

On the morning of our departure we had a very picturesque 

breakfast, surrounded by every kind of Eastern figure. The 

Mushir, or Commander-in-Chief, and a large cavalcade saw us out 

of the town, and we exchanged affectionate farewells. 'Ve made 

only a three hours' march, a good plan for the first day, to see if 

everything is in order. It cleared us out of the town and its 

environs, and placed us in camp early, on the borders of the 

Desert. 

You would be charmed with a Syrian camp. The horses are 

picketted about, wild and martial men are lying here and there, 

and a glorious moonlight lights our tripod and kettle, and the 

jackals howl and chatter as they sniff savoury bones. Travellers 

talk of danger when surrounded by hungry jackals. I have 

always found that they flew away if a pocket-handkerchief were 

shaken at them, and that it was only by remaining breathless 

like a statue that one could persuade them to stay in sight. It 

is the prettiest thing to see them gambol in the moonlight, 

jumping over one another's backs; but it has a strange effect 

when a jackal smelling the cookery runs up to or around your tent 

whilst all are asleep; the shadow on the white danY8SS looks 80 

large, like a figure exaggerated in a magic lantern. All travellers


will remember at some time or another feeling a little doubtful of 

what it was, and seizing their gun. When first I heard a pack 

coming, I thought it was a ghazu (raid) of Bedawin rushing 

down upon us, and that this was the war-cry. Their yell is 

unearthly as it sweeps down upon you, passes, and dies away in the 

distance. I love the sound, because it reminds me of camp life, 

by far the most delightful form of existence when the weather 

is not rainy and bitterly cold. 

Our usual travelling day was as follows:-the people who 

had only to get out of bed and dress in five minutes rose at 

dawn; but all of us who had responsibility rose about two hours 

before, to feed the horses, to make tea, strike tents, pack, and load. 

The baggage animals, with provisions and water, are directed to a 

given place, or so many hours in a certain direction. One man of our 

party slings on the saddle bags containing something to eat and 

drink, and another hangs a water melon or two to his saddle. 'Ve 

ride on for four or five hours, and dismount at the most convenient 

place where there is water. We spread our little store; we eat, 

smoke, and sleep for one hour, During this halt the horses' girths 

are slackened, their bridles exchanged for halters; they drink if 

possible, and their nose-bags are filled with one measure of 

barley. We then ride on again till we reach our tents. If 

the men are active and good, we find tents pitched, the mattresses 

and blankets spread, the mules and donkeys free and 

rolling to refresh themselves, the gipsy pot over a good fire, and 

perhaps a glass of lemonade or a cup of coffee ready for us. If 

we have been twelve or thirteen hours in the saddle, we and the 

horses are equally tired, and it is a great disappointment to miss 

our camp, to have the ground for bed, the saddle for pillow, a 

water melon for supper; and it is even worse for our animals 

than for ourselves. In our camp it is my husband's business to 

take all the notes and sketches, observations and maps, and to 

gather all the information. I act as secretary and aide-de-camp, 

and my especial business is the care of the stable and any sick or 

wounded men. 

On this trip, however, I never had to think of personal comforts 

.-my favourite Dragoman, Mulhem "'.,.ardi, a Beyrout Maronite, 

·W88 with us. In Syria we all have our pet Dragoman, as most


down on a little projecting piece of wood, from which it could fly 

into open space. For a long time it lay as if it were dead with 

fright and pain. I did not move till it gradually revived ant] 

flew away. I tried to explain to him howcruel he had been, how 

Allah had made that bird, and how angry he must feel at seeing 

him ill use it thus. I thought the idea of Allah being angry 

rather amused him, so I asked him how he would like a big giant 

to swing him round by the leg with a rope ? He understood that 

better, and listened with open mouth and beautiful large eyes, so 

that I thought I was making some impression. But five minutes 

afterwards I found him in "full cry," spearing the Pariah dogs 

through the village with his father's lance: it was no use trying 

to alter Nature. Crowds of villagers collected to see us, and the 

court-yard and the house were filled with, and surrounded by, all 

aorta of guests from different Bedawin tribes. Camels were lying 

about, baggage was piled here and there, and horses were picketed 

in all directions. It was a picture; and this motley crew looked 

up to Da'as as to a master. 

A. sad affair happened that evening. I had unfortunately 

engaged a man as head servant and interpreter. 1\lyhusband told 

him off to wait upon me during the journey, and to ride after me if 

needful. Unfortunately, cleverness and goodness do not always go 

together. When we arrived at Jaynid I dismounted, and taking 

my husband's horse and my own, walked them up and down to 

cool. A.s soon as Zahnin and another man came up I gave them 

the reins, saying, " After our hard ride in that sand-storm, take as 

much care of those horses as if they were children." He replied, 

"Be rested, Sitti;" but an unpleasant smile appeared upon his 

face. When my back was turned, he threw my reins to a bystander, 

and drawing a sword,which he had been entrusted to carry, 

he cut the throat of the good, useful little beast which had been 

hired for him. I saw many people running, but being very 

tired I did not tum round. 'I'he cruel act was kept concealed for 

fear of distressing me, but somebody at supper let it out, I rose 

from my seat to dismiss the man at once, but my husband wisely 

stopped me, and desired me to put a good face on the matter 

until the end of the journey, 

The explanation of the ruffian's conduct was this :-he had

Palmgra, or Tad,1l0r in, t/I£ JVilderneBB. 211 

been negociatiug for a thorough-bred horse, which he meant to 

pny for 011t of my pocket, but he had been outbid by AutUn 

Wardi, my Dragoman's brother, and his rage had been uncontrollable, 

especially as he saw the coveted animal perpetually 

caracoling before him. He afterwards avowed that he wanted 

a good horse, so 88 to fly at the first appearance of danger, and 

lie thought, with that Levantine and Italian gift of short-sighted, 

petty intrigue, like the unripe cunning of a badly brought up 

child, that if he killed his own good, useful, but unpretentious 

boast, he would ride my second horse. I saw the case at once, and 

mounted him upon the worst thing in the camp. 

In the morning we 88\V large salt marshes and gypsum mines 

not far away. The salina is white and glistening, and the heat 

spreads over it a white mist, when it appears like the Mirage, 

bearing fantastic ships. I remember feeling very faint at Jaynid 

from the alternate cold and heat, and the natives thought that 

the salt marshes produced this state of temperature and its unpleasant 

effects. 

The hubbub in the court-yard awoke us early. Mules,donkeys, 

camels, horses, and mares, were objecting to their loads or saddles, 

and to one another's presence, and were expressing the same by 

screaming and kicking-the men running about screaming and 

swearing. We rode over the plain to the next village, Atneh-tho 

last settlement, the last water, and the last human abode between 

Jnyrtid and Karyatayn. Da'as and his lances accompanied us. 

At Atneh, hearing of some underground buildings, we stopped 

lO dig a deep hole, and found an old hypocaust. Then we rode 

considerably out of our way to see the salt marshes. We breakfasted 

in the harim at Atneh, the women having all gone out. 

'Vhen they returned the men retired. It was the house of a bride, 

so her garments hung all around the walls,like a Jew's old clothes 

shop, to show what she had brought with her to her husband. 

On the same principle we display trousseaue and presents, and put 

a list of donors in the" Court Journal," pour encourager leB autrt:B. 

'I'he village womenwere covered with coins and bits of stone, made 

into necklaces and charms against the" evil eye." 

..A.fter this, we had a long Desert ride in wind and rain, sleet and 

hail, and the ground was full of large holes, The Arabs, in gaudy

212 7'he Inner LiJe of Hyria. 

jackets, white baggy trowsers, and gold kufiyyehs, were galloping 

about furiously, brandishing and throwing their lances, and playing 

the usual Jerid tricks. We encountered a terrible storm of thunder 

and lightning, and between times a fiery sun rained down its 

beams upon the parched plain. The ground-that of the Desertis 

alternately flint, limestone, and soft, smooth gravel: not a tree or 

shrub, not a human being or animal, is to be seen. The vegetation 

is stunted and withered-the colours are yellow sand and blue sky, 

-blue and yellow for ever. At dusk we arrived to find our tents 

pitched. Our horses cared for, we dined, and that night, for the first 

time, we slept in our clothes, with revolvers and guns by our sides, 

The men took turns to keep watch, that we might not be surprised 

by a Ghazu, and the mules were unbelled, so as not to attract attention. 

A" Ghazu " of Bedawin means 600 or 700 of a tribe, the 

'Vulll Ali, or Rualla, who go out for marauding purposes. They 

charge in a body, with their lances poised and quivering in the air, 

shouting their war-cry, and they only stop short at a foot from )·our 

horse. If you stand your ground without blinking, they will not 

touch you; on the contrary, they will worship your bravery, and 

only take their black mail; but if you do not happen to know 

this, and show either fear or fight, they will touch you up with 

the spear, and cast you loose in the Desert, naked, and on foot. 

In many cases it would be much more merciful to kill outright. 

We rose before the" cold, dark, misty, and freezing dawn. ,,:re 

had some difficulty in starting our camp. The horses were shivering 

and shaking, the muleteers and camel-men objected, and I saw 

)Iulhem laying about him desperately with a Kurbaj (hide thong). 

My husband and Count de Perrochel, being impatient, walked on, 

and very fast too. M. Ionin and I remained behind, to induce 

the camp to start by the moral pressure of our presence. I suppose 

this took a longer time than we calculated, for we rode 

through the same sort of country as yesterday for a length of time, 

without seeing anything of our pedestrians, whose horses we leu. 

At last we saw on the horizon a small rise of stones, with a fire, 

and men at the top of it. We were frightened for our missing 

ones, as there is only one sort of people out in these parts; we 

galloped 8S hard as we could towards it, and we found it was

PcJz,nyra, or TadulO'f in, the Wiltlerness. 213 

themselves. 'Ve then had a long and lonely ride through the 

same desolate valley-plain, banked on both sides in the distance 

by naked, barren mountains, and we were thankful when the sun 

came out. 'Ve breakfasted at a ruined Khan (Caravanserai) in the 

midst of the desolation, one of the many built to accommodate 

and shelter travellers, in the days when Tadmor was in her 

splendour. Though now in ruins, they are massive enough to 

withstand the elements for many centuries. Here we stayed for 

an hour, and those who had second horses changed saddles. 

Then we rode on and on, it seemed for an age, with no variation; 

not a bird, nor a tree, nor a sound, save our own tramp. At 

length, within an hour of Karyatayn, we had a little excitement. 

On a slightly rising ground,which was now a horizon about five miles 

distant, we beheld something which, by the uid of Casella'sfieldglasses, 

we discovered to be a large party of mounted Bedawin, 'Ve 

carried sharp dog whistles, which I bought from the old" Bishop," 

of Bond Street, before sailing, and which in silent places are heard a 

long way off. ,,"e sounded them, and waved to our stragglers 

and waited until all were collected. I must here remark that 

. from the hour of our leaving Damascus, stragglers joined us at 

e,"ery instant, from every garden, and in every village. They 

were natives who wanted protection from one settlement to 

another. l\Iany of them would not otherwise have reached Karyatayn, 

Moreover, as the laws of hospitality oblige us to entertain 

both man and beast, our troop was a Godsend to them. They do 

not mean fighting, and they are like camp followers to an army, 

serving only to swell the numbers. But they contributed, on this 

occasion, to our assuming an important appearance. Our Kawwasses 

and servants were six in all; Da'as led ten men; and the muleteers, 

camel-men, cook, and camp-followers, numbered some eighty in 

all. As we all wore the kufiyyeh, and Da'as and his men dressed 

much like Bedawin, I have no doubt that we looked like a small 

Ghazu. 

•\8 soon as all our stragglers had reached us, we formed into 

line, and the opposite party did the same. We then galloped to 

meet them, and they did likewise; in fact, they copied us in 

everything, without glasses, When within a quarter of a mile 

w« pulled up. and they pulled up. ,,"(\ fully expected n eharge

21-1 TI,e In,ner Life of Syria. 

and a skirmish, and they were more numerous than us; so we 

halted and remained in line, consulting - it was also their 

manoeuvre, 

Three of us then rode out to meet them; three horsemen of 

their line did likewise. They hailed us, and asked us who we 

were, and what we wanted. We told them that the English and 

Russian Consuls were passing to Palmyra, and asked in our turn 

the same questions. They replied that they were the Shaykh of 

Karyatayn and his fighting-men, and the Chief Priest under the 

Archbishop of Damascus, bearing invitations for us. They jumped 

down from their horses, and kissed my hand. We were then 

joined by both sides; all the men embraced, and we were escorted 

in triumph to the village, the men riding Jerid, firing from horseback 

at full speed, hanging over by one stirrup, with the bridle in 

their mouths, quivering their long lances in the air, throwing them 

and catching them again at full gallop, yelling and shouting their 

war-cry. Their many-coloured dresses, their mares, and the wildness 

of the whole spectacle, were very refreshing. 'Ve learnt that 

Omar Beg, a Hungarian Brigadier-General in the Turkish service, 

was stationed here with 1600 troops,in hopes of reducing the wild 

tribes to submission. So we went to the house of the Shaykh, 

and dispatched a note to him. 

The Shaykh of Karyatayn's dwelling was a mud house, with a 

large reception-room, where we had a big fire, and dined and slept 

-that is,my husband, }I. Ionin, and the Count de Perrochel. The 

rest were littered about in various comers of the house. Our 

animals stood in the stable, and the others were picketted about 

the court. There was a separate house for the harim, which 

appeared numerous, and I slept there, with a room to myself. 

\\ThiIst we were enjoying our fire, and sitting round a rug, 

a fat young Turkish Bous-officier entered with an insolent look. 

Thinking he had come with a message from Omar Beg, we all 

saluted in the usual manner. Without returning it, he walked 

up, stepped across us, flung himself on our rug, leaned on his 

elbow, and, with an impertinent leer, stared at us all around, till 

he came to my husband's eye-which partakes more of the tigercat's-then 

he started and turned pale. The Russian Consul and 

the French Count jumped to their feet. l\Iy husband, who saw

216 The Iltner Life of Syria. 

of a beating, but I think he would be much better if he had a 

few days' confinement." By-and-by the culprit was marched in 

between two soldiers, livid with fear, and scarcely able to stand 

up for shame before his Brigadier, whom he beheld dining in 

intimate friendship with the people he had insulted. Omar Beg 

sentenced him to prison until further orders. 

The action he committed would have been insolent in any 

part of the world, but in the East it was trebly so; and had he 

not been treated as he was treated, his next move would have 

been to assault us. If you wink at a slight here, you court the 

insult that is sure to follow. Syrians are, when they choose to 

be, the most courteous of people, but you must keep them in 

order, and if there is any defection it is your fault. The badlydisposed 

in this part of the world would delight in offering an 

insult, understood by all native bystanders, but not understood, ana 

therefore not resented, by a European. They look at one another 

with grave faces behind your back, and enjoy the joke extremely. 

It behoves you, therefore, quickly to learn what the common 

Eastern modes of insult are, and to resent one at once. In all 

probability the first will be the last time it will be risked. "flu 

bi'arif" (" He knows "), they will whisper to one another. .\ 

gamin who knew both English and Arabic was once escorting an 

English naval officer, when the latter espied an Eastern gent.leman 

passing whom he had met before. Turning to the lad, he 

said, " I want to say something civil to that gentleman in Arabic. 

Teach me what to say." The lad quickly replied, " Say, ' Kayf 

halkum Effendum; Yala'an Abuk'" (" How do you do, sir? d-your 

father "), The Eastern, who saw the lad with his tongue in 

his cheek behind the naval officer, appreciated the joke, and 

noticed it as it deserved. Saluting very courteously, he answered, 

"Ana mabsdta kattir khayrak ya Sidi Beg; Yala'an Jiddak" (" I 

am well, I thank your Excellency, but d-- your grandfather "), 

The next was 8 pleasant, lazy day. There were some Baths to 

be seen, a ruined Convent, a Catholic Chapel, a l\Iosqne, and the 

Village generally. 'Ve .rested, read and wrote, looked to our 

horses' shoes, and to the backs of the hired ones, and made a 

few extra preparations for the march. I also had the pleasure of 

making, in that ,",ery queer and lonely spot, an acquaintance which


fear them, that wherever the uniform is seen all scuttle out of the 

way as if from a serpent on the path. 'Ve could not even get 

a peasant to carry our note to Omar Beg, who is the kindest and 

most benevolent of men, and we had to send a Kawwass. When 

the military leave, the villagers' natural enemy will resume 

their place, the tribe of the Seba'ah, who from time to time sweep 

down upon them, and carry off their sheep, goats, and grain. The 

doors are mere holes in the wall, so that only one man may pass 

at a time, and that in a bent position, when the owner can shoot 

them down 88 fast they come in. Some of the old Shaykhs 

begged to be allowed to examine my revolver; they could not 

make out "how such a small gun could make such a noise 

and hit 80 far: U and also they thought, as many do in wild 

countries, that when once it is fired it goes on till it is told to 

stop. At night, when I went to the harim, about fifty women 

paid me a visit. I gave a pair of ear-rings to the head wife of 

the Shaykh, which act of generosity caused fearful jealousy and 

quarrelling. Long after I was dying to go to bed they sat talking 

in my room, till at last the husband or brother, with an instinct 

of delicacy, came of his own accord to tell them to take leave, 

and upon their refusing he drove them all out like a flock of 

sheep. I fortunately had a fastening to my door, so that when 

they were once gone I was able to shut them out. }Iy sleep was, 

however, very disturbed, for they kept on trying the doors and 

shutters till very late. They have an insatiable desire for information 

concerning European and Christian women, and during 

my toilette I could see fifty pairs of eyes at fifty chinks in the 

windows and doors. Dressing en Anuuone seemed to afford them 

infinite glee, and when I arrived at the cloth nether garments of 

my riding habit, they produced shouts of laughter equal to those 

which greet the drollest farce in London. Count Perrochel and 

I being Catholics, went to Church. The Chapel was a very poor 

little place, and 1\Iass was celebrated according to the Syriac rite. 

We then assembled in the Square of the village, and found our 

horses being led up and down by the soldiers; our camels with 

water in goat skins, our baggage beasts, mules, and donkeys; the 

hired Tahktarawin and our Jaynid Free-Lances drawn up on one 

side. Omar Beg accompanied us out with a troop of cavalry, and

Palnvfra, or' Tadmor iJl, the JJr£ltl.erneSB. 221 

curves, every curve widening, which here is always preparatory 

to running a\vay. Abuut half-a-dozen, amongst whom were 

Ali our Kawwass, and our servants, remained steady. ZahraD 

executed a curve or two, but lny husband called out, "The first 

man who bolts I will shoot him in the back." This brought 

them all in, and steadied them at once. We looked to our arms, 

and spying a little eminence at a short distance, we rode up to it, 

and planted on a spear a certain red flag "pith the Union Jack in 

the corner; in the Desert it can be seen for miles. 

Then we took off the saddle-bags, and I spread the breakfast, 

Our party soon returned, they had found only 150 of the Seba'eh 

watering their animals, and they could not attack us till .they 

had time to collect 600 or 700 strong. l\[ean\vhile, to divert 

attention, I asked D1Y husband's leave to make a display of "tir." 

'Ve put an orange on a lance point, seventy yards off; they gave 

Die the first shot; by good luck I hit it, and by better luck still 

they did Dot ask me for a second shot, 80 that I carne off with a 

great reputation, hardly deserved. Everybody fired in turn, but 

except Da'as and an officer, for our soldiers came up whilst this 

was going on, no gun carried far enough. We were now together, 

baggage and all, and mustered 160 souls-strong enough to fight 

any Ghuzu. l\[y husband spoke a few words to the men who 

were not soldiers. ,,:r0 changed our horses and mounted the 

fresh ones. He and the officer in command then formed the men 

into single line. They cheered and sung war Bongs all the remainder 

of the Gay, and I am sure we must have looked awfully 

imposing, 

The first sight of Palmyra is like a regiment of cavalry 

drawn out in single line. There was the same deceiving effect 

as to distance. Then gradually the ruins began to stand out one 

by one in the sunlight, and a more imposing sight I never looked 

upon. So gigantic, so extensive, so bare, so desolate, rising out of 

and half-buried in a sea of sand. There is something that almost 

takes one's breath a"'ay about this splendid City of the Dead, 

when you are alone and gazing in silence upon her solitary 

grandeur. You feel as if you were wandering in some forgotten 

world, and respect and wonder bid you hush like a child amidst 

the tombs of a long closed and forgotten churchyard. This was

222 

the Tadmor built by Solomon as a safe halt for the treasures 

of India and Persia passing through the Desert (2 Paralipomenon, 

or Chronicles, viii. 4.). "And he built Tadmor in the wilderness, 

and all the store cities, which he built in Hamath." Read also 

3 Kings, or 1 Kings ix, 18. 

The Shaykh and his people came out to meet us. They saw 

the Ghezu pass down to the water as we did, and were half afraid 

we were the other part of it. Our horses hoofs soon clattered 

over the blocks of stone that formed the pavement, and up a 

flight of broad steps under massive archways, to the door of the 

Shaykh's house. The village resembles a group of "rasps' nests on 

a large scale, clinging to the inside walls of a gigantic ruined 

temple. The people are hideous, poor, dirty, ragged, and 

diseased. Everybody has ophthalmia, and you feel to catch it by 

looking at them; there is not 8 sound eye in tho place, and 

I longed to find a convict oculist who would take a free pardon to 

settle there. They look as if born for misery. "That have the 

descendants of Zenobia done to come to this? 

In the Shaykh's house we had coffee and pipes. We were 

compelled to dine there, he would take no denial, and we did not 

wish to hurt his feelings. We ought to have camped on a 

threshing-floor near the spring, with three palm trees, but our 

muleteers placed us close to the east of the grand colonnade, for 

the sake of being near to the wells. Our camp consisted of our 

five tents, and ten for the eighty soldiers. The animals were 

picketed as much as possible in shelter, for we suffered from ico 

and snow, sirocco, burning heat, and furious sou'westers. 

I cannot describe the beauty of our camp. \tVe had two 

snlphureous wells, one to bathe in and the other to drink out of, 

and 8 larger water, which more resembled a pond, at the back of 

the tents, served for the animals. Some steps led down to our 

bathing well, where there was 8 place to sit in exactly like a 

full length bath, with the lukewarm water perpetually rushing 

through it. The only drawback was that there were sometimes 

snakes in it, but they were quite harmless. Everybody felt a 

little tired, and we went to bed early. It was. the first night we 

really undressed, and bathed, and slept, and it was such a refreshment 

that I did not wake for twelve hours. ,,-e accounted

•

Palnlyra, or Tadnlor in tlte JVilllerness. 223 

ourselves safe here, though if 8 Ghazu had chosen to come down 

upon us amidst the ruins, it could have attacked us just as well as 

in the open desert. But Bedawin cannot fight where they cannot 

ride, and we should have had the advantage of them, as it would 

have been impossible to charge and wheel in circles amid the 

fallen columns and debris. The villagers would not have helped 

us; they would have had to consider their own interests, for they 

are exposed to their raids all the year round. 

My journal of the following morning contains 8 very short 

notice: " We were considerably refreshed, attended to our horses 

and several camp wants, 'Ve lounged about till breakfast, and 

wrote our journals. It was scorchingly hot weather. We are here 

for five days, so did not begin serious work until noon." 

I would give one bit of advice to tourists in Syria, and that is, 

never to think of bringing out English tents, but always to use 

those of the natives, which are provided for them. English tents 

may be delightful for Aldershot, but are useless in these latitudes. 

They tear, they blow down, they let in wind and rain. They don't 

keep out the sun. They are heavy, and ill-adapted for mule-back 

over mountains and rocky countries. My husband always uses a 

Bedawin tent, so did Mr. Drake and Mr. Palmer. 

You will say that we performed this eight days' journey to 

Palmyra in a very lazy, easy manner; so we did, but I do not feel 

surry for it. If I were to tell you that I had ridden sixty hours 

on a camel without stopping, and had only drunk one cup of 

coffee the whole way, you might have admired my powers of 

endurance; but so many have done this and described it, that 

I am glad to have gone to Palmyra in a different manner, and to 

be able to amuse you by the petty details of the route. 

I am very much amused, and very much pleased, to learn that 

all along the road I have been generally mistaken for a boy. 

I had no idea of any disguise, but as soon as I found it out 

I encouraged the idea, and I shall do so in future whenever we are 

off the usual beaten tracks. After all, wild people in wild places 

would feel but little respect or consideration for 8 Christian 

woman with a bare face, whatever they may put on of outward 

show, It is all well in localities where they daily see European 

women, but otherwise, according to their notions, we ought to be

Palmyra, or Tadmor in the Wildemea. 225 

This was the way in which I found out what they thought, 

and what put the idea into my head: one day, during a halt, we 

were sitting on a divan, with Shaykhs, Moslems and Christians, 

and all were paying great attention to my husband. Suddenly the 

village priest (Greek Orthodox) looked over and pointing at me 

said, " Hatha ibn-ale yo' Sidi Beg?" (" Is that your son, my Lord 

Beg ?") l\Iy husband, with the gravest face in the world,answered, 

"Ay,,"a ya Ablina" ("Yes, 0 Reverend Father It). I saluted him 

in the usual fashion, and my husband quickly turned to another 

subject. 

Q

Palmyra, Ancient Tadmor. 227 

gigantic columns, which are sixty or eighty feet high, with carved 

capitals. Most of them have inscriptions, some are fluted, others 

consist of one solid shaft, and others are made of huge blocks 

joined. Some have very large bases, and might have served for 

the beginning or end of a street, or a point de r8union whence 

four streets branched off. It seems that every street began and 

terminated with a Temple, whose grandeur corresponded with that 

of the thoroughfare. At almost regular intervals are spacious and 

carved arches and gateways, remnants of Temples, wells and 

springs, and wonderful unique Tower-Tombs. 

The Chief Temple is that of the Sun, which has a square court 

740 feet each side. It is enclosed within walls seventy feet 

high, and clinging to the inside walls are the fifty wretched huts 

which I described as being like wasps' nests. The principal 

street was evidently what is now called the Great Colonnade. Its 

remnants begin about 300 yards from this Temple in an oblique 

direction. Turning our backs to the Temple, we pass,at 300 yards 

from it, under a central or triumphal arch, with two smaller side 

arches--evidently a triple gateway. This is built in the bend 

of the street leading to the Temple, and as it now stands alone it 

has an effect more striking than classical. Its carving is elaborate, 

and but little destroyed. 

You may walk down the High Street till you reach the mountains, 

perhaps for a mile or more. It is so long and ruined here 

and there, that one has to take it up at intervals, but there is no 

mistaking its direct line. From the triumphal arch to a very 

marked point de depart in about the middle, the right side of the 

street is in ruins, but after that the left side is almost completely 

ruined, whilst on the right hand here and there the columns 

remain perfect. This street also terminates at a Temple, six 

columns supporting aflU}Qile. Here, on turning to look back, one 

perceives that the Great Colonnade must have had two lesser 

streets of the same kind, like the aisles of a cathedral. Doubtless 

the large road would be intended for equestrians and carriages, 

and the two side paths for pedestrians. 

You can stand on the top of a spacious arch which must once 

have formed a magnificent gateway; now it is buried in sand. In 

the particular instance of which I DOW write, a muleteer is sing-

228 The Inner Lift3 of Syria. 

ing upon that noble perch, unconscious of anything grand, and 

wonders what I am staring at. Whilst so engaged a flight of 

storks darken the air-one small white butterfly, which must have 

been the scape-goat of the butterflies, and charged with their sins, 

myriads of small black beetles burrowing in the sand, and the 

snakes in the bath underground, complete all the live stock of 

Palmyra the Old. 

I can even to-day shut my eyes and walk allover Palmyra, 

and tell every column standing in situ. Being so near the mountains 

at the further end of the High Street, it is as well to ascend 

to the castle, which is built on a little detached peak of the range 

which backs the City. It is cruised round, with an infinity of 

labour, to form a moat, and the ascent, steep and slippery, tears 

hands and knees, clothes and boots. On two sides of it are mountain 

ranges, and on the other two the Desert stretches away into 

the horizon. This is quite the best point from which to look down 

on the plan of the town, and this is the general view of the ruins 

at your feet. More striking than all, and immediately below you, 

is a fine Temple-the Great Colonnade beginning from it, and 

terminating a mile off in the Temple of the Sun, whose walls 

bide the only eyesore, the disgraceful village which is thereby 

sheltered from weather, and less exposed to Bedawin. The ruins 

visited by travellers and tourists are simply the official tour of 

temples, forum, and theatres, but Captain Burton traced out the 

C& native" or "black town" by the different colour of the soil, composed 

of organic matter, and especially ashes. 

The colonnades strike you most, and set you to work trying 

to trace out the plan of the city; they evidently formed the 

streets, and everything indicates that all tended towards the 

principal one. Shut your eyes, and think of a city composed of 

streets formed of colonnades cross-barring one another, each one 

beginning and ending with a temple, and you see Palmyra. 

At our feet lies this City, surrounded by the old walls of 

Justinian, much ruined, forming a large circle, joined at one end 

by the Temple of the Sun, and at the other by the mountains. 

Whereyer there is a spring or well there are patches of garden 

enclosed by low stone walls, none of them bigger than large 

roomB; in these patches the wretched natives grow barley, and


plant pomegranate, dates, and olives. When ripe, the swooping 

Bedawin eat them; and even these tiny oases would not exist 

but for the springs. All the rest of the view consists of these 

patches of garden, chiefly round the Temple, and they look like 

green spots on a yellow ground. 

Streams, wells, and springs of the hot, sulphureous water, and 

tombs-of which more presently-lie everywhere. The intervening 

space is covered with remnants of temples, with isolated 

columns, porticoes, and large fallen stones. There are buildings 

which might have been prisons, barracks, offices of justice, and 

other public buildings. During the whole of our wanderings 

amongst the ruins we constantly found caves and vaults. There 

are several little squares of standing columns, which might have 

been pavilions or nymphooums, covering fountains. I counted 

seven of them. All the busts have had their heads knocked o1t 

and most of the coins represented a woman sitting-of course, 

supposed to be Zenobia. 

The architecture is in bad taste and coarse, but the carving 

very elaborate, much of it still almost perfect. It is a barbarous 

idea of splendour, all Columns and Temples. The chief objects of 

interest are the Tower-Tombs, which are strictly Palmyrene, and 

here represent the Pyramids. They line not only the two wild 

mountain defile entrances to the City, but they also dot the roots 

of the mountains which back it, corresponding with the Salahiyyeh 

graveyard on the roots of Jebel Kayslin. 

"Te spent five days at Palmyra. The first was devoted to this 

general inspection. The second moming to the Temple of the 

Sun, which is composed of huge blocks of limestone from the 

neighbouring mountains. It has fine carved cornices, still perfect. 

The central door is 32 feet high and 16 feet wide. The Naos, or 

temple itself, has one hundred standing columns. It is encompassed 

by walls 70 feet high; the wall at the back slants, as if 

it had been arrested in falling; but I tremble to think what an 

earthquake would do for Palmyra. In the afternoon we commenced 

our fouilles, and visiting the Tower-Tombs. These buildings 

are tall, square towers, 80 feet high, and 30 feet broad OD 

each side, with a handsome frontage. Inside they are four stories 

high, and each tier contains loculi for bodies, like a honey-eomb.


They have beautiful ceilings of stone, stuccoed and painted, and 

the entrances are lined with dwarf pilasters and busts. There are 

about one hundred principal, and the earliest date is A.D. 2. All 

over the rest of Syria the tombs are hewn in the rocks. These 

must have been for the grand old families, and their ruins and 

desolation, with no language left to tell their tale, is replete with 

mournful interest. 

The Palmyrene district must have extended much further 

than anybody suspected, for my husband found Palmyrene inscriptions 

in the Jebel D'rtiz Haursn, much further south-west 

than anyone thought. Whilst they were digging, I devoted some 

part of each day in endeavouring to cure the poor people of 

ophthalmia, and was on the road to succeeding before I left. 

lowe all I know to our celebrated London oculist, Mr. White 

Cooper, who, from the generous motive of doing good in countries 

to which he was perhaps never likely to go, gave me several 

instruetions and receipts which I could always practise with 

safety. The blessings, therefore, which have been heaped upon 

me, more properly belong to him. Excepting cases which required 

an operation, I have cured or bettered all the bad eyes I have 

met with, and in the East one can have as much practice in that 

line as would fill all one's time. I have tried to improve my 

knowledge since, in the hope of some day going back; and I trust 

one of these days that some enthusiast who wants to do good, will 

salary an appointment for 8 good oculist to reside at Damascus. 

Sight is one of the greatest blessings, and I know of no part of 

the world where the eyes are so beautiful and are so diseased as 

in Syria. The discouraging part of it is, that in the East 

ophthalmia usually proceeds from flies and want of cleanliness, 

and you know when they are cured they will return to it. I 

have spent much time in lecturing them upon the uncleanly 

habits of the fly, and "hear, hear" is represented by choruses 

of "Mash8Jlah, alhakmek. Mafi mithlek " (" By Allah, thou art 

right. There is none like [equal to] thee "). But you see what 

seems from 8 little distance to be a baby with a pair of eycs the 

size of a crown-piece-you call out to the mother, she waves 

her hand over the baby's face, and they dwindle down to the 

size of a sixpence. About two hundred flies had been there for


hours, and will presently return. It is fearful to think what 

diseases they must communicate. They are physically what a 

mischief maker is morally. Born and bred out of dirt, they 

feed upon dirt, engender it, and communicate it to their fellowcreatures, 

from which results a pestilence which kills off the 

weak, and from which the strong stand aloof with dread. I 

should like to dress all Syrians in "Oatch 'em alive,"· and wish 

we knew of any prescription of equal moral value for Society. 

On the second night of our arrival the two officers, the Shaykh 

of Palmyra and Shaykh Faris, dined in our tents. We strolled 

about the .ruins by moonlight, and when tired we sat round in a 

large ring on the sand, and the soldiers and muleteers gave us 

music and singing-they danced the sword dance with a wild 

grace, to their barbarous but musical accompaniment and weird 

songs. My greatest pleasure, however, was to wander about alone, 

to enjoy the beauty and the majesty of the ruins by moonlight. 

I did not want European talk; I did not want Syrian chatter; 

I did not always want scientific lore nor books. It is a place 

where you prefer nature, solitude, and meditation. 

We were here on Good Friday, and the SimUm blew so hard 

that we had great difficulty in keeping our tents over our heads. 

The Count de Perrochel and myself, the Dragomans, muleteers, 

and part of the servants, who were Catholics, perfyrmed a service 

at three o'clock under the shelter of some rocks. 

We discovered caves, and found human bones, skulls with the 

hair on, hands in a good state of preservation, coins, tesserm, and 

a few large slabs-all were sent to the Anthropological Institute, 

except the latter, which were too heavy to carry away. 

Entering Palmyra, we crossed a sulphureous stream which 

issues from a cavernous hole in the mountain, and runs with a 

rapid current through the- City. Not far from it are apparently 

separate springs of the same quality, bubbling up in the sand. 

It is as bright as crystal, tepid, with the properties of Vichy 

water. Damascenes send to Europe for mineral drinks-why 

do they not get this bottled, which is 80 near them? 

How different Frenchmen and Englishmen are with regard to 

• A paper sold in the streets or London in summer, sticky and poUonou. It 

attracts the ftiee,and once they have pitched upon it they die.

232 Tk6 Inner Life of Syria. 

their ideas of our sex. The Count de Perrochel was shocked with 

me for not being afraid to sort the bones into order to help my 

husband with his work: he said, impatiently- 

"On voit bien, madame, que vous ates Anglaise. Une Franeaise 

se serait au moins evanouie, ou aurait eta prise d'hysterie, et vous 

etes tellement calme et pratique, qu'on dirait que vous classifiez 

des coliflchets et non des ossements humains, et j'avoue que cela 

me repugne; que je voudmis voir un peu plus de sensibilite." 

I was quite taken aback. I appeal to you, reader, whether 

one would not be a bore to a travelling and scientific husband if, 

when one was wanted to lend a hand to carry out some project, 

one's tender sensibilities overcame one, and one fell into shrieking 

convulsions. What a happy life! what a pleasant companion 

for a sensible man! I replied that there were so many women in 

the world whose mission it was to dress and sit on the sofa all 

day, receiving visitors, making an effect, talking well-or ill-and 

being admired, that they were intended by Providence to do all . 

that sort of thing pour notl8 autres, who are obliged to face the 

realities of life. 

Women's duties appear to be portioned out to them very 

decidedly. Some are told off to be good mothers to children and 

good housewives, which is woman's natural vocation; others in 

single blessedness with missions; and others in a public useful 

career. Some are told off to convents to pmy for the active 

ones; and some, like stinging insects, to make the rest uncomfortable. 

A traveller's wife must cultivate certain capabilities-ride 

well, walk, swim, shoot, and learn to defend herself if attacked, so 

as not to be entirely dependent upon the husband; also to make 

the bed, arrange the tent, cook the dinner if necessary, wash the 

clothes by the river side, mend and spread them to dry-for his 

comfort; nurse the sick, bind and dress wounds, pick up a 

language, make a camp of natives love, respect, and obey her; 

groom her own horse, saddle him, learn to wade him through 

rivers; sleep on the ground with the saddle for a pillow, and 

genemlly learn to rough it, and do without comforts. She must 

be thoroughly useful to her husband, and try never to want 

anything of him. She ought to be able to write, and to help

Palmyra, .Ancient Tadmor. 233 

him in taking his observations; and if she can sketch or paint, 

she is indeed a happy woman. 

It is very seldom that travellers have not servants with them 

to cook, wash, to groom horses, and arrange a tent; but they are 

less likely to strike work and to run away if they see that you 

can do all this yourself. Also, your servant for either of these 

offices might bedownwith fever, and then you must help yourself. 

The next morning my husband's servant, Habib, fell ill with 

fever, and had quinine. We passed our day in the ruins, writing 

descriptions of our journey, and of Palmyra, and also of our 

troueaillee. We had all retired to rest when I was awokeby hearing 

a moaning and roaring like that of a camel when being loaded. 

I ran out to see, and, being guided by the noise to the servants' 

tent, I found Tannus, the kitchen assistant, taken with curious convulsions, 

and the rest all holding him down. It is a Syrian disease, 

called El Wah'tab; they say it is congenital; to me it looked like a 

mixture of epilepsy and hysteria, if the latter term may be applied 

to Tannus. In old times it would be considered" possession," and 

they would have called in an exorciser. A bump rises out in the 

back, and when the patient feels it coming on he lies on his face 

and asks someone to tread up and downhim, like pressing grapes; 

there is a superstition in favour of a first-born child. The men 

seemed to be much alarmed lest he should die. I ran to the provision 

basket and medicine chest, and mixed a glass of strong hot 

brandy and water, with sugar, peppermint, ginger, camphor, and sal 

eolaiile; and getting one of the men to open the lad's locked teeth 

with a spoon, I sat down on the ground and managed to get the 

whole glassful down his throat, a small teaspoonful at a time. He 

was perfectly quiet almost directly, and instinctively turned over 

on his face, I suppose to have his back trodden; but I did not let 

them do it. I wanted to see what effect the brandy and restoratives 

would have. He came-to in an hour and a half, quite well 

and sensible, but very tipsy. They told him what I had done, 

and he kissed my hand and thanked me, and said,-" I am quite 

silly now, but I shall be able to speak to you as I ought in 

the morning." 

On Easter Sunday we continued visiting the fouilla, or excavations 

we were making, and also the ruins, and performed our


Sunday service in one of the temples, wrote our journals, and had 

our usual pleasant evening, but it was bitterly cold; we also prepared 

for departure on the morrow. We had been here five whole 

days, not counting that of arrival or departure. 

This evening I exclaimed, "I wish I had a narghlleh," They 

talk of the little cherub who sits up aloft to take care of poor 

Jack, but I am sure every single hearted person has something 

of the kind. One of the party answered me, "But you have a 

beautiful silver pipe, why do you never use it?" I answered, 

"Where is it?" "With Zahmn," they said. I began to feel 

very uncomfortable-how is it possible that I have a silver narghfleh 

and have never seen it? At dinner time I called to Zahr8.n, 

who was waiting, and said, "I am told you have a pipe of mine. 

Pray how long have I had it? " 

"I bought it, Sitti, for £3 at Karyatayn, and I want to sell it 

to you for £7." This was said without a falter or a blush. "Very 

good," I said, making up my mind to inquire into the matter. 

"Who sold it to you?" "The Shaykh." But for that simple 

remark of mine, "I want a narghileh," and the answer purposely 

made to let me know that something wrong was going on in my 

name, I should have incurred a disgrace without knowing it, 88 I 

shall show on our return home. 

On Easter Monday, 18th April, we left Palmyra. We should 

have done better to have remained there fifteen days. I wish 

that we had taken ropes, hooks, and ladders to reach 80 feet, 

planks to bridge over broken stair-cases, and a stout crowbar. 

The heat of the arid Desert, the fierce winds, snow, ice, biting 

cold, scorching SUD, blistering heat, want of water on the journey, 

chances of attack, and the destestable water of Palmyra, from 

which we were all suffering, and from which our horses weakened 

and lost flesh, would have been doubly and trebly repaid if we 

could thoroughly have examined Kasr el Zayneh, Palace of the 

pretty; Kasr el Azba, of the maiden; and Kasr el Artis, of the 

bride-the three best Tower-Tombs. 

Captain Burton, having now seen everything, determined to 

lose no time in getting back to Damascus, which we were ordered 

to accomplish in four days, at thirteen hours a days, fifty-two 

hours' riding. That is hard work, whatever it may sound to read,


kept up for any length of time, especially for those who work the 

four hours, besides riding the thirteen. 

We left camp at dawn by a different way. We had come by 

the Baghdad or eastern route, the Darb el Basfr, and we returned 

by the Darb el Sultani, the main or direct route, with a slight 

digression of three hours to the newly-found well, Ayn el Wu'w. 

If the traveller has seventeen camels loaded with water, he may 

go a more direct road, 'Via a Roman fort in the desert, which 

looks like a chapel, called Kasr el Hayr, and the remains of the 

aqueduct. He may, in point of fact, go where he likes, and as slow 

as he pleases, whilst the water lasts; but if he rides horses, and 

takes no water, he must make the journey in two days, and camp 

his one night at this spring, with three hours'digression. Here 

he should water on arriving at night and on departure in the 

morning. 

It was a terribly hot day. We saw several hoopoes, and had 

one or two false alarms. We saw something drawn up in line at 

a great distance, and could not make it out. Some said Bedawin, 

others riderless horses. At last, by the aid of the glasses, we 

made out wild boars. Away flew everybody, as fast 88 horses 

could lay legs to the ground, utterly forgetful of robbers, and we 

had some very good sport, without, however, anything like a bag. 

We encamped at 8 p.m. in the mountain defile, at the Ayn el 

Wu'Ul. All were dead beat, and so were the horses. At night I 

had fever, and a hurricane of wind and rain nearly carried our 

tents away, succeeding the scorching heat of the day. 

Our second day homeward bound was miserably long-from 

dawn till sunset-with a driving wind, and sand in our faces, 

filling eyes, ears, nose, and mouth. It made the horses restive 

and tiresome. I felt so cold, tired and disheartened, being weak 

with fever, that 88 I sat in my saddle and galloped along I cried 

for about two hours, and my husband and the others laughed at 

me. Whilst I was crying we saw a body of mounted Bedawin 

dodging about in the mountain to our right, and looking at us in 

the plain. So I dried my eyes, and rode on with a good will till 

we reached Karyatayn at sunset; but I had to be lifted off my 

horse, and could not stand for some minutes. 

Omar Beg dined with us, and I visited Madame Omar Beg in


the harim. After dinner my husband sent for the Shaykh of 

Karyatayn and for Zahr&n, and, in the presence of all, questioned 

the former, saying- 

"That silver narghfleh was once yours, Shaykh. How did it 

happen to go with us to Tadmor ? " 

"Yes," said the old man; "it was a great family treasure, 

handed from father to son; but Zahnin told me that the Sitti 

admired it, and that I had better give it to her for Bakshish; and, 

sooner than she should leave my house unsatisfied, I told him to 

put it in her baggage." 

I could not remain silent. 

"Listen, 0 Shaykh! I did not know that a silver pipe was in 

your house, or in my baggage, until some one who knew what a 

shameful trick my servant had practised upon you informed me 

of it. I then asked him (Zahmn) concerning it, and he told 

me he had bought it of you for £3, and wanted to sell it to 

me for £7. Whereupon I was resolved to learn the truth from 

your own lips. Here is your narghfleh ; I could not accept it 

for all the world. It would be contrary to the customs of my 

country." 

The poor old fellow, much as he pressed me to keep it, could 

not conceal his joy, and then added, timidly, "The day your 

sunshine departed from my poor dwelling my best carpet could 

not be found. Not that any of your Highness's servants would 

have touched the homely thing, but perhaps they might assist me 

in finding it." 

Zahnin immediately pretended to bustle about to go and help 

to find the carpet. My husband desired him to remain where he 

was, and ordered the Kawwasses to search the baggage under his 

care. It was found stowed away under his saddle cloth. My 

husband restored it to the old man, and then begged of him to 

search his house, and see if he could miss anything else, but said 

not one word to Zahr&n, who was pale and trembling. 

All clamoured to remain one day at Karyatayn. We had 

already been out for t\VO days, at thirteen hours each, and the 

alternate bitter driving wind and blinding heat had greatly 

fatigued us. The muleteers mutinied; they said their backs 

were broken, their beasts dead beat. The soldiers were glad to


tains, and deeming it too risky to attack us,seeing howfar our rifles 

carried, they let us go by. As soon 88 we were well out of sight 

they fell upon the villages in our rear, and carried off everything, 

sheep, goats, and grain. 

The 21st of April was our last day. Our little military escort 

left us early to return to Omar Beg, but Da'as and his men asked 

leave to see us safe to Damascus. We started at sunrise, and rode 

all day, reaching home at 8 p.m. Now I know and can tell you 

howit is that Damascus has been exalted into a garden of Paradise. 

I have been out in the Desert seventeen days only, and I cannot 

describe to you the sensation of first viewing the plain of Esh 

Sham. From the day of my arrival to this date I did not know 

that Damascus was beautiful; to-day I learned it, but I did not 

love her for her beauty-that came upon me at another date, a 

little later. If fresh from any very beautiful country, or much 

attached to the flesh-pots of London or Paris, it is just possible 

that, like me, at first you would wonder what meant all those 

extravagant praises common to authors. But go to the Desert, 

even for seventeen days 88 we did, and you will bestow the same. 

You first see a belt of something dark lining the horizon, 

and long to reach it, and for hours it seems to recede from 

you. Then you enter by degrees under the trees, the orchards, 

the gardens; you smell the water from afar like a thirsty horse, 

and you hear its gurgling long before you come amongst the 

rills and fountains. You scent, and then see, the fruit-the limes, 

figs, citron, and water-melon. You feel a madness to jump into 

the water, to eat your fill of fruit, to go to sleep under the delicious 

shade. You forget the bitter wind, the scorching SUD, the 

blistering sand, and you dream away the last two or three hours, 

wondering if it is true, or if your brain is hurt by the sun, or your 

blinded eyes see a mirage. But your tired, drooping horse tells 

you it is true. He pricks up his ears, knows he is near home, 

would like to break out into a mild trot if he could, stops to 

drink at every rill, and with a low whinny of joy gathers a 

mouthful of grass as he passes every crop. 

At last we reached our own door. Our cottage at Salahfyyeh 

looked to me like a palace, and 80 full of comfort that it was 

worth while to go away. A warm welcome greeted us on all sides.

8to1Jles at H011l6 and in Oamp. 239 

Everybody was tired except Captain Burton. Every horse and other 

beast was dead beat, so all accepted our hospitality for the night.• 

Here I ask permission, as many of my sex love their horses, 

and would like to know when their grooms treat them properly, 

to say a few words about stables. Do not imagine that I have the 

presumption to write for sporting men, before whom I must 

appear but an ignoramus. The next few pages are especially for 

ladies who are first-rate riders, and go across country two or three 

times a week, and who really care about their horses, but.0 see 

them only when they mount at their door; and who, when they 

dismount, hand the reins to the groom, and perhaps do not see 

them for a week, except to have their clothing taken off to show 

them to a friend, or to give them a bit of sugar in the stables. 

Under these circumstances there is no steady attachment between 

a horse and its rider; the former is merely then a thing for 

locomotion, and one will do as well as another, if he only goes 88 

well. The owner must believe and do exactly what her studgroom 

tells her. It is like a mother leaving her child to a nurse. 

The child gets to know better, and will grow fonder of the nurse 

than the parent. I do not say anything against grooms; they are 

a necessity, and first-class ones are a treasure, but the commoner 

order were born to spoil with their roughness the best brute's 

temper. I have often felt amused in English country houses, 

where the host has sixteen or twenty horses, to hear the hostess 

say almost timidly to her fat, powdered coachman- 

" Barker! do you think that I might have the carriage 

to-day? " 

Barker (very crisply): No, my lady, you can't! 

Lady (timidly): "Oh! never mind, Barker; I didn't know! " 

Know what? The sacred mysteries of an English stud? 

That the horses are choking with food, till it bursts out in disease 

-that their chests, and consequently their fore-legs, are 80 

affected by being pampered that they cannot do the slightest 

work with impunity; that the stables are kept 80 hot that it is 

worth a fatal cough to take the beasts outside it-that the under- 

• I sent an account of our expedition to the Editor of the Time., which he wu 

good enough to iDleri, but it had necell&rilyto be brief, and laokedall theee detan..


strappers give them a sly kick in tender places occasionally, when 

they get out of temper over the grooming, and the stud-groom is 

in another part of the stable. It makes no show outside, but how 

he must laugh when he hears you wondering why your horse 

falters a little in the hind-quarters, or why he is so shy and 

nervous in the stall. 

l\Iany of my friends came out to Syria, and a few to South 

America, when I was there. They rode beautifully, but they knew 

nothing about their horses, which got no kind of care, and CODsequently 

they wondered why they fell down, why they were 

thin, why they died long before the journey was over, and why 

they had wrung backs. Doubtless they went away thinking 

them a sorry lot. I picked up rudiments of stable knowledge in 

England, 88 a young girl in the country; and when I went to live 

in out-of-the-wayplaces-now fourteen years ago-I had to be my 

own stud-groom, to learn all the" wrinkles" of each new place, 

and then to make the grooms work under my directions. 

Nature's groom, in these parts, will water the horse at the 

place most convenient to him, and when he remembers it; he will 

give the horse a bundle of grass or herbs, but if he has the chance 

he will put the com, or rather its money, into his pocket. He 

will curry-comb the horse just before he is going out, and leave 

the perspiration and dust on for days, if he does not go out. He 

wouldrather die than pick up his feet and clean them out-luckily 

"thrush" is not so prevalent here as at home. He will give him 

a sly kick in the stall, or tug at his bridle like a bell-rope when 

you are visiting or shopping, and nobody is looking. He will 

always leave the saddle on till the horse is cool; if there is a 

gallon the back it dries and sticks to it, and then he pulls off the 

saddle, skin and all. I do not for my own part like an old native 

groom, with his formed habits; I prefer a raw boy, who knows 

nothing and is more docile. I engage him in this manner: 

"Now, I will teach you for a week, or a fortnight, and I shall 

be in the stable five or six times a day. If I see that the horses 

neigh and rub their heads against you when you come near them, 

I shall know that you are a good boy. If I see that their ears 

go back, or that they lash out or move away from you when you 

come near them, I shall know that you worry them whilst you

8to1Jles at Home and in Oamp. 241 

groom them. When they have been out half a day, if 'they tum 

a hair I shall see whether you feed them properly, or whether 

you steal the corn. If they like you, you stay; if they dislike 

you, you go; because, though they can't speak, they have forty 

ways of telling me, and I will change once a week until I get· a 

good one. Meantime you shall have every chance-good wages, 

every comfort, and every kindness." 

In this way, during my Syrian life, I made three first-rate 

grooms out of five. On journeys I had every animal tethered in a 

line before my tent. In the East we tether fore and aft by a soft 

hobble round one fetlock, attached to a rope, the other end of 

which is driven-into the ground by an. iron peg, a foot or more 

long. It does not prevent the animals moving, or lying down,but 

acts as a restraint upon fighting. When camping in dangerous 

places, you fasten the two legs of a valuable horse with an iron 

chain and padlock, of which you keep the key; because Bedawin 

cannot take a horse away in this condition. This is like spiking a 

gun, and it does not hurt the horse. 

I rise two hours before we start-which is either at dawn or 

sunrise. If it is warm the animals are rubbed down gently; if it 

is cold they are well groomed, to warm them. If it is hot they 

are taken to water. If cold they are not taken to water, except 

in the event of our having a long, thirsty day; but in this case 

they refuse drink when offered. The food of the horses in Syria 

is barley, and "tibn," or sweet straw,sledged as fine as mincemeat. 

In South America they eat capfm, whichis coarse grass, five feet 

high, and Indian com (maize) whole. If a horse is dainty you 

bruise it, wet it a little, and add a pinch of salt. Their nose-bags 

are put on with one measure of barley, well mixed with as much 

"tibn." Then they are saddled, but the girths are not tightened, 

nor is the bit put in the mouth till the last moment, because they 

are going to work twelve or thirteen hours in the heat, and who 

knows if we shall find water? All these little observances enable 

a horse to bear a hard day with far less distress. He will perhaps 

be almost restive for two or three hours. If you pass noon without 

meeting water, he will begin to droop, and appear distressed; if 

therefore, after the sun is up, or before, if warm, you meet with 

water, jump off, slacken his girths, take out his bit, and let him 

B


drink his fill. Never listen to what your Dragoman or your Sais 

tells you. If it is bitter cold do not water him before sun-rise, 

because he will have cholic-after that water him whenever you 

find an opportunity, If he is very hot, and it is past noon, leave 

the bit on for drinking; if he is only warm before noon take it out. 

The meaning is this-he ought to have one good drink once in 

the morning, but if he wants to drink many times after that before 

evening, and is very hot, the bit makes him drink slower, and he 

does not get his fill so easily; but you must be guided entirely by 

how many times a day you can get water. I know how to do 

myself, but it is dangerous to lay down rules for people who do 

not. In cold weather a horse must have two good drinks a day, 

morning and evening, without girths and bit j but in hot weather 

he wants much more, like ourselves. Remember this, that if you 

can do no better for your poor'animal, a slackened girth, the bit 

off for a quarter of an hour, or a mouthful of grass, when it can be 

found, helps him through his hard day immensely. I hope I have 

made myself clear. 

.When you halt in the middle of the day for an hour for 

breakfast, before you do anything else, slacken your girths, take 

off the bridle, and apply the halter which is slung to the saddle, 

put on the nose-bag with another measure of barley, and water if 

convenient. He will go twice as far,.and it is not a bit of trouble. 

On my first travels we often came to a deep well, where there 

was no stone basin or trough for animals, as is usual in Desert 

countries, and nothing to draw water with, so that the man could 

go dbwn the steps, and get a cupful, but the poor beast could only 

smell the water. .I haTe seen the tears roll down their cheeks 

with thirst. This set me inventing, I had made for about two 

shillings a large goat-skin pouch, exactly like a tobacco bag, with 

loops of hide, and a stout rope. It rolled up to nothing, and hung 

at my saddle like a lasso. "\Vhen we got to these wells I had only 

to untie and lower it, and bring up 8 pailful at a time, so that 

during our hour's halt at mid-day every horse could drink its fill; 

and after that, if there were a stone basin, or trough, we worked 

until we left it full of" fresh, sweet water, for some unhappy 

wanderer without the same means. I do not understand those who 

are very good people, very good Christians, perhaps, but who-

Stables at Home and in Oamp. 243 

utterly ignoring that when God made Man King over Creation 

He recommended the animals to his mercy-have no heart of 

compassion for them, and treat them like steam engines-how they 

ride them all day up and down the steepest rocky mountains in 

the burning heat, never get off to ease them a little, never give 

them to drink, even when water is there. I have even heard a 

young native girl, in whom you would expect to find a little tenderness, 

say-" What matter, it's only a hired horse!" as if that 

were the poor beast's fault; and at the end of the day turn them 

loose to anybody's or nobody's mercy. Nobody in our camp would 

dare do this, for they would be discharged at once; but I have 

seen it done in other camps, where I had no power to say much, 

only to suggest politely-and yet I have heard those people 

canting about" keeping holy the Sabbath day." 

When you are engaging horses for a journey-you who make 

tours in Syria, and have no horses of your own-have them drawn 

up in line, and bare their backs. You will find some with holes 

you could put a tumbler into. Do not take them, firstly for 

humanity, and secondly because the man knows they are going 

to die; and if he is lucky enough to secure their dying in your 

service, he sheds a shower of tears over his ruined fortunes, and 

you have to pay him the money. Have them walked up and down 

before you; if you see a shadow of lameness, have the shoes oft 

and you will find a nail, two inches long, somewhere in the soft 

part of the foot. Overhaul the mules in the same way. If you, 

o tourist! will do this, humanity will perforce come into Syria. 

There will be no wrung backs, no lame creatures crawling and 

dying over the rocks, with three hundredweight of baggage on 

their hidden sores. 

At sunset, when we ride in and dismount, my husband finds 

ready his divan before the tent door, a sherbet, or cup of coffee, 

a narghileh, and very often an ovation of Shaykhs and villagers. 

I, in my character of SOD, run up and hold his stirrup to dismount, 

salute him, and leaving him to do the grand seigneur, I walk off 

with the horses, which is what I like best. 

The Sais is waiting for me with all the stable traps ready, and 

the men to help. Every saddle and bridle is off in an instant. The 

back, where.the gear has been,and the spine especially, are rubbed


into a lather with a handful of Raki, the spirit of the country. 

The LeOOd, or clothing, is on immediately. They are led about for 

-a quarter of an hour. Their nose-bagsare then put OD, with a little 

" tibn " only. As soon 88 they are cool they are led down to the 

water, pr watered by goat-skins, when we have to carry it with us. 

Their nose-bags are then filled with two or three measures of 

barley, and a little "tibn" mixed, making in all four or five 

measures in the twenty-four hours, with from nine to thirteen 

hours' work. No horse ought to have less than four, or more than 

five. They can be groomed after the men have had their 

supper. If a horse does not eat after his work, and he is in 

good health, he is either too tired, or his groom has not watered 

him. You must first try water, and if it is not thirst, set the food 

by him for the night, and he will be sure to eat it after he is 

rested. In camping, tether your horses either in a line before 

your tent, or in a ring, and make your groom sleep in the middle 

of them, with his rug and abba. It is advisable not only to 

attend to your own animals, but to see that every master of hired 

animals does the same thing, at the same time, so that no one can 

shirk. The poor brutes got to know me quite well long before 

the end of a journey. Once a hired mule had been driven all day, 

in a burning heat, over the rocks, with a heavy load; he had 

been badly shod, and evidently pad a nail in his foot-his face was 

the picture of pain and despair, tears streaming out of his eyes. 

The driver would have goaded him on in that state to the end 

of the journey, till he died of exhaustion and a broken heart. 

But he hobbled up to me with his load, holding up the foot he 

could no longer set upon the ground, with an expression of mute, 

patient pain which plainly said, "You are my last hope; can you 

do nothing to save me?" I called to the driver and said, "Unload 

that mule." He grumbled a little bit, but hastily obeyed. "Now," 

I said, "go and fetch me the man who acts as farrier amongst 

you." He called him. "Pull off that shoe." He gnunbled, and 

assured me the shoe was all right. "Pull it off, and don't answer 

me." He did so, and a nail about two inches long came out 

of the frog covered with blood. "But," they said, "Sitti, how 

could you know? we did not see it." "No; because you are 

greater brutes than the mule; he knows better than you do, and

8to1Jles at Home and in Camp. 245 

he came and told me himself; and if I ever see a lame animal in 

the camp again, you will get your simple pay, but not a piastre of 

Bskshish over and above, when we return." We filled the hoof 

with tar and tallow, and put a bit of leather over it for the night, 

and next morning a light shoe gently laid over that till it was 

healed. I never had a lame animal from that time in any expedition. 

I believe they thought that the beasts really did talk 

to me. 

I do not see how ladies are to attend to their own animals on 

these journeys, much as I wish to induce them to do 80; they 

are always in the hands of their Dragoman; and I have generally 

seen Dragomans and Saises who are hired for a single joume7 

combining to give the animals hommopathic quantities of nourishment, 

and put the money into their pockets. They tell the 

ladies it is all right, and they believe it; but surely some lD.&1l 

of the party might take the same trouble I always did. I could 

quote many cases, but it is not my object to prevent poor 

men from earning their bread. And I certainly exempt the 

Wardis from this fault. They always kept the animals well. 

I remember when I first began to look after horses myself, in 

Brazil, I never could make out why they came to me in good 

condition, and soon became thin and spiritless. It was suggested 

to me that the groom stole the com. I tried to "dodge" him 

in a hundred delicate and lady-like ways, and was always outwitted. 

At last I found that a very good way was to put a Bramah 

lock on the com-bin, and to keep the key;' go down at feeding 

time, night and morning, see the corn measured and put in the 

manger, tum the groom out, lock the stable door, and put the key 

in my pocket, and give it to him an hour later. You will naturally 

say, "But were not his feelings hurt?" I must answer "Yes; 

his feelings were very much hurt in several ways, but he knew 

what a wise woman I was, and he and I both knew that the horses 

got fat and in good condition, and carried us well; end, moreover, 

that I did not throw my husband's money into the manger for 

him to pick it out:' Depend upon it, even from selfish motives, 

the beast who carries you should be your first consideration-yot' 

will go further and fare better if he is cared for; and for my 

part, both from selfish and unselfish motives, nobody except my


husband is allowed to drink a glass of water until the horses have 

been attended to. I give the example by sharing their privations. 

As to stable management at home: the horses should be turned 

out to grass every spring for at least a month, and if possible 

longer. Our grass here is tall and coarse-bladed, a foot high, full 

of sap, and very refreshing. They do not know English grass and 

hay. You must hire a field, or part of a field, if you have Dot 

one, and you must tether your animals by the head only, with 

ropes long enough to permit of their clearing a certain quantity 

of ground in the day. They are not quiet enough to turn loose 88 

in England. The groom lives with them the whole time, day and 

night, his tent being pitched in the middle; his business is to 

water them, and shift the tethers as required, to see that they are 

not stolen, and do not break loose and fight. When you want to 

take them up, you change the diet very gradually for a few days, 

giving one measure of barley at sunset, and when you put them in 

the stable for hard feeding, you give them in like manner a few 

bundles of grass at sunrise the first three days. 

In warmclimates, stables should bekept as clean as the houses, 

and ought to have windows-and doors at each end all opened in 

the summer. I take my windows out to make sure, and put them 

in when it gets cold. In winter, shut only what keeps out the 

wind. It is far healthier to open the rest, and put the clothing OD, 

then a camping expedition is no trial to them, if the weather is 

fresh, and also you never have coughs and glanders. A stable 

should always be light, for nine out of ten horses shy only because 

they are kept in the dark till the sight becomes defective. In 

the stable, with ordinary work, one measure of barley is quite 

sufficient in the morning, "tibn" several times a day, and two 

measures of barley at sunset. 'Vatering, during tropical summer 

heat, should be attended to four times a day-the first thing in 

the morning, at 11 a.m., at 4 p.m., and at 8 p.m. In winter 

twice, about 10 a.m., and at 4 or 5 p.m. Grooming should be 

regular, the first thing in the morning. 

At first I could not, either here or in South America, induce 

my servants to wash the hoofs inside as well as outside. They 

objected to picking them up until I did it myself; and when they 

saw that the animals liked it and stood still, they took to it and did

Stables at Home and in Oamp. 247 

it very well. I used to make them wash the horses all over with 

soap and water, douche them with pails of water, and dry brush 

and glove them till they shone like golden-sherry coloured silk. 

All my animals were "red horses," as the Arabs call bays, dark 

and light. I used to go round in the morning with a white kid 

glove, and see if I could rub off any dust. I always burnt stable 

combs, for they used to spoil the manes and tails. In summer I 

used to send them to the Turkish bath to be cleaned, and the 

horses used to enjoy it immensely. 

If I went out for several hours, rode hard, and returned without 

a hair being turned, I used to make the groom a little present. I 

changed five times in two years. The first was an old man with 

formed habits-he could not stand the discipline, and he liked best 

his own slipshod ways. The second was an incorrigible rascal, and 

mined my camel. Of the other"three I made capital grooms, and 

who gets them will be fortunate. Two men were discharged by 

my husband for disobedience to orders, but not for being bad 

grooms. When a groom does his work methodically he has plenty 

of time to himself. I had two horses of my own. My husbandwho 

finds little rides a bore, and cares 'only to go out for a few 

days or weeks or months at a time-rode two Rahwans, ambling 

Kurdish ponies; one of these, just before we bought him, ambled, 

for a wager,his seventy-twomiles in eight hours, and was none the 

worse for it. I also had a mare that I won in a lottery, a white 

donkey, and for a while a camel, and this completed our somewhat 

curious stud. Yet my last three grooms always resented any offer 

of assistance in the stables when stationary, and seemed hurt and 

jealous if aid were proposed. Syrians do not take all this trouble 

by nature, but do their best for a thorough-bred mare, because she 

represents money. The Kaddish, however useful, gets scanty care, 

like a cab horse; the hired beast nothing. The consequence is 

that these animals all look miserable and ill used, as if life were a 

bore, and they last but half their time. A freshly bought horse 

put into my stable, used to tell me a world of woes in a thousand 

little ways for two or three months.

248 PM Inner Life of Syria. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

ZAHB!N'S END-OHAPELS-DBAGOMANS-VILLAGE SQUABBLES 

PABIAH DOGS-HUMANE SOCIETY. 

ON the 22nd we were up early, and all the party, having settled 

their accounts and other affairs, dispersed to their respective 

homes. 

Every time a journey is made there are certain things to be 

done the day after arrival, such as drawing off the horses' shoes, 

turning them out-groom and all-to grass for a month, if in 

spring; cleaning the weapons, and burnishing and repairing the 

sadlery, or the stable would soon be in ruins. The donkey, who 

has been idle all this time, now takes up the work; he is also 

better for the town. 

To-day my husband went down to the Consulate to see the 

mails arriving, and shortly afterwards two soldiers came in and 

marched Zahran off to trial. He was condemned to six weeks' 

prison, and when he came out he married a. widow and set up as 

a cobbler with the money he had made by three months' stewardship 

with us. Since that time I heard nothing more of him. 

'" e have a small Catholic chapel on the mountain side "in the 

outskirts of Salahiyyeh, under Bishop Ya'aktib, and served according 

to the Syrian rite by one Padre E--. He is a. gentlemanly, 

well-bred, well-instructed, liberal-minded man, and sincerely religious. 

This priest was once a Bishop, and went to the Crimea in 

the time of the war. Report says that he tried the religions all 

around, and finding his own (Syrian Catholic) the best, he has 

come back to be a simple priest, and wears a badge of penitence. 

I bow that his Bishop values him highly. The poverty of our

250 TM Inner Life of Syria. 

Endowed with wonderful instinct, if he had been educated in 

Europe he might have risen to anything. As it was, he is one 

of those curious specimens of equally balanced good and evil 

one 80 frequently sees in the East. He was always full of 

politics, intrigues, and Government affairs. He knows more of 

Syria than any man I have met. His head, which was marvellously 

like a walnut, contains a budget of miscellaneous information. 

He knew what was going on all over the country. 

He could ride hard, and rough it; was capital company, and 

warm-hearted. The difficult line to draw for an honest soul was to 

know when you were making a proper use of him, without letting 

him make an improper use of you. I have seen him blush with 

pleasure when detected in a lie or an intrigue. Personally, I had 

a very kindly feeling towards him, and something of gratitude; 

he used to teach me scmps of Arabic, and amuse many a dull 

half-hour; he always saw the comic side of a situation, and was 

ever a welcome guest, either in house or camp. He used to like to 

be called my especial Dragoman, for now he was only honorary 

Dragoman to the Consulate; he had, however, one fault which 

ruined all his virtues. He could never be faithful to any master 

or employer, and he betrayed his friends, not for any fixed project, 

but simply to "keep his hand in," like Fakreddin. Whenever 

there was any business between my husband and the Wall, he was 

all alive, and used to run and fetch and carry, and stack the fuel 

on with all his might. My husband knew all that, and valued his 

reports accordingly; but the Pasha was a weaker man, and he succeeded 

in two years, after the fashion of water dropping upon a stone, 

in turning what should and might have been a friend into a bitter 

and unjust enemy. This was ungrateful to a Consul who had supported 

his claims with regard to a village which had been taken 

. from him and given to a Frenchman; and who continued to do 80 

even after he left the country, because he knew that Hanna Misk's 

claims were just. 

Whilst we are speaking of Dragomans, I will run through 

our list, as they all come into our Syrian li ves. There was our 

able and faithful Dragoman, M. Awadia; but the cleverest and 

the most useful of all was M. Hanna Azar, who consequently 

suffered, as many good people do, by fearlessly exposing a wrong.

Dragomans-Village Squabbles. 251 

There were also the two sons of a very remarkable man before 

mentioned-Dr. Meshaka. He was of an advanced age, and all 

the time we were in Damascus was almost bed-ridden. In his 

younger days he had studied the Bible, and became a Protestant 

from conviction. He did not force his religion on his family, but 

he brought them up well, and was himself a sincerely good Christian. 

He spent his whole time in writing Arabic works, chiefly 

on mathematics, religion, and music; it is to be hoped they will 

be translated and given to the world. It was one of our greatest 

pleasures to passan hour upon his divan. 

The country is governed by Dragomans (I speak in a general 

sense, for no official ever had a more faithful Staff than Captain 

Burton). All Turkish authorities, Consuls, and other officers, have 

several of these Secretaries. Their masters are mostly puppets. If 

a great man wants to see another great man, A.'s Dragoman goes 

to B.'s Dragoman, and arranges the visit. Messages and letters 

likewise pass this way, so that they arrange what they like, and 

take care that the messages shall make their Chiefs friends or 

enemies, as they please; and there lies the mischief and scandal. 

Twomen meet each other attended by three Dragomans,whorepeat 

every word of the conversation through the town. Most Dragomans 

are jealous of one another. There can be no secrets. A 

Cabinet Council or secret meeting is held with servants bringing 

narghilehs in and out of the Hall, with Kawwasses standing on 

guard in hearing. The Turkish Government secrets ooze out by 

the Hajlis and Diwsn, and Consular secrets by the Dragomans, and 

the House privacy by the numbers of attendants. You live literally 

in public night and day. No room or hour is sacred from visitors. 

I never spoke privately to any person for a single minute all the 

time I was in Syria. You get used to belonging to the public 

after a little while, and cease to remark it. 

I resume my village story. After a week had passed, the 

Shaykh of the Mosque next door, who was my friend, came and 

begged me to petition that the Moslems who had maltreated the 

Bishop and the Christians might be released from prison, making 

that touching gesture as if to rend the beard according to the old 

custom. i\. little crowd came to ask pardon, and the old mother 

of the soldier came and cried. I went to my husband, and he


arranged with the Pasha that they should be sent up, escorted by 

a Guard. This was my quarrel, so I asked them before the people 

if they were not ashamed of the manner in which they had 

behaved to the Bishop and the priest, to me and my co-religionists. 

I said to them, " My husband has come out to live in this 

lonely place to benefit you, and protect you. I am like your 

mother-I feed your poor, I clothe your children, I cure your 

sick, we spend all our money amongst you, and yet you allow one 

of your men to insult me in the street. I thought I wasliving 

amongst friends, and I went out unprotected, thinking to find a 

guard in every man, from one end of the village to the other. 

(Cries of 'We are! we are I ') I should have thought you would 

have protected me from any insult. Must I go about amongst 

you armed, as if you were enemies, as if we were in the Desert? " 

This is the way to touch them. Some of them knelt, and some 

cried, and some asked me to tread upon them. "No," I said; 

"not that, but you, 0 Shaykh! make a covenant between you and 

my husband to keep your people in their proper minds, or something 

serious will happen. Neighbours must be like relatives. 

We do Dot want these occasional quarrels and insults. We want 

to be friends with all; agree that if a Moslem insults a Christian, 

and we tell you of it, you will get him imprisoned, and that if 

a Christian insults a Moslem, and you tell my husband, he shall 

procure him double punishment." They werequite delighted with 

this idea of justice; the more so as it was not likely that our 

poor, humble, frightened fifty would try to insult 15,000 rough 

and lawless Kurds. The men were set free, they begged pardon 

of the Bishop, the priest, and myself. The chapel was left OpeD, 

the priest remained, and order prevailed. Ever after we were 

always the best of friends, and I would from that time have gone 

out at any time of the night without fear. My husband constantly 

went away and left me alone. My bed-room window and the 

Mosque's minaret adjoined. I slept, when warm enough, with all 

the windows and doors open. If this quarter bears a bad reputation 

I can give my evidence that from this time it was undeserved. 

I never missed the smallest thing, and I never met with anything 

but kindness and respect. It took only five months to change its 

character from a desperate quarter to a quiet and safe one, and

ParioA Dogs. 253 

not by violence, but by kindness and a little firmness. In proof 

of its safety, I may quote that a present was brought to me of 

a gazelle trapped in the Desert. I kept the poor, frightened, 

beautiful little thing till night, and then carried it out in my 

arms to the mountain and set it free. I was just as safe as I 

should have been in London at that hour-nay, safer. 

A few words about the street dogs, as I have 'become very 

familiar with their habits and customs. In all Eastern towns 

they have sprung up from .the time of the Creation; they 

multiply extensively, they belong to nobody, they are not 

held sacred, but, as they are the town scavengers, nobody kills 

them. In Brazil, the vulture, a large, black, repulsive bird, 

supplies the place of dogs, and is therefore protected by a £20 

penalty. With the Moslem it is a sin to take life, but it is 

allowable, or rather it is the practice, to torture, maim, and illuse 

short of death. These poor brutes live on the offal of the 

town, they sleep in the streets, they bring forth their young on 

a mud heap, and at a tender age the pups join the pack. They 

are ill-used by the whole population, and, like Ishmael, their 

hand is against every one, and every one's hand is against them. 

The people beat them, kick them, stone them, 80 that out of 

18,000 you will not see a dozen elders with a whole body, or 

four sound legs. They are 80 unused to kindness, that if you 

touched one it would bite your hand off like a wild beast, supposing 

that you were going to injure it. Were you to remain 

alone in a hazar at night, shut up with them, it is probable 

that they would attack you in a pack, and kill you. There is 

a story of a sea captain who drank a little too much, and 1&y 

down in a public place. In the morning, only a gnawed bone 

or two,his sailor's cap and tattered clothes, told the horrible story. 

It is quite possible that this should happen, the animals are 80 

starved. Their habits are regulated by lawsof their own. I have 

grown, in the solitude of Salahfyyeh, to learn them. At night, 

when profound stillness reigns in the village, you suddenly hear 

a dog coming down from the Kurdish burial ground on the 

roots of the mountains. He communicates some news to the dogs 

nearest the borders of the village. There is a chorus of barking; 

it ceases, and a single dog is commissionedto bear the news to the

H'U,1nane Society. 257 

them. In a place where no authority would take notice of such 

trifles, could I remain a passive spectator? 

I lent our camel to groom No.2. He had to ride seventytwo 

miles-to Beyrout-wait two days, and return. He knew 

exactly how he would have been obliged to treat the animal in my 

presence. Presently I noticed a strange odour in the stables, and 

found that it did not eat, and that the tears streamed from its 

eyes. The man said it was fatigued, and would be all right in a 

few hours. I rode down to the town on the donkey, and then met 

one of our Dragomans, who said to me:- 

"Do you know about your camel ? " 

" No; what is the matter? I have just seen it." 

" When you ride back, make it kneel." 

I rode back to the stable, called Hanna, and said, "Make that 

camel kneel." I removed the cloth that covered him, and to my 

horror saw a large hole in his back, uncovering the spine. It was 

already mortifying. 

" Explain this! " I said. 

The man confessed that he had never taken the saddle off, 

from the"time of going out to coming in again; that the stuffing 

had given way, and that the pommel, which is like a metal stick, 

had run into its back and caused a hole bigger than a man's 

fist; that he only discovered it on returning and taking the 

saddle off, some eight hours before. Hitherto he had only been 

guilty of disobedience, and proved himself not to be trusted 

with an animal out of one's sight; but his unpardonable cruelty 

was, after knowing the state of the case, hoping to hide the 

affair for fear of being discharged, and allowing the poor brute 

to remain in that agony many hours longer than necessary. 

I at once sent for the "vet.," and ordered warm water. Hanna 

returned with a saucepan of Lolling water, and was about to pour 

it into the wound. I had kept my temper until then-I was only 

just in time to save the poor animal from what would have obliged 

us to put a bullet through its head. Hanna and the saucepan 

made a very speedy exit out of the stable, never to enter it again. 

I cured the camel, and after two months sold it for a trifle as 

unsound. 

There was a small Pariah dog that lived about my door. One 

8

258 The 1111118r Life of Syria. 

night I heard a moaning under the windows, but it was dark, 

blustering, and bitter cold, and I could neither see nor find anything. 

In the morning I saw my protege lying there paralyzed 

with the frost. The poor little thing was past cure, it had only 

one paw to crawl upon. \Vhilst I was dressing to go down and 

take it in-for none of the servants would have touched it-I saw 

many who passed give it a kick, and the boys trying to drive it 

about when it could not crawl out of the way of their brutality. 

At last a crowd began to collect to torment it. Its screams were 

piteous. I begged my husband to go out and shoot it, but he 

had too good a reputation to risk it by taking life. My Moslem 

servants would not. The Christians were afraid of the former, 80 

I got my little gun, threw up my window, and shot it dead. The 

crowd quickly dispersed with many a l\18shallah at my sinfulness, 

and all day I could see them telling one another, and pointing at 

my window. 

Another night I heard cries of distress somewhere in the 

orchards near our house. Thinking it wasone of the usual brawls, 

and that somebody was being killed, I seized the only thing at 

hand, a big English hunting whip, and ran out in the direction 

of the noise. Then I perceived forty or fifty boys in a crowd 

throwing huge stones as big as a melon against a dead wall, 

from which issued howls of agony. I dispersed them right and 

left. Some fell down on their knees, others ran, and others 

jumped over the wall. I was left alone; it was very dark, and 

I said to myself, "Where can the victim be? it must have 

escaped in the confusion." I was going away, when I perceived 

something brown near the wall; I lit a match, and found a large 

bundle tied up in a sack. I thought perhaps it was a girl, or a 

baby, but it was a big Pariah dog; they had caught it asleep, 

laid a huge stone on its tail, bundled head and fore legs into 

a sack, and were practising the old Eastern habit of killing by 

stoning. The difficulty was how to let the poor animal out; it 

would perhaps think that I had done the cruel act, and fly at 

me. However, I could not go back to sleep and leave things 

thus, 80 I mustered courage. Firstly, I cut the strings with my 

knife, and pulled it off the head and body, leaving the stone for 

my own protection; and then, finding that it did not hurt me,

Humane Society. 259 

I managed with considerable effort to remove the weight. The 

wretch behaved better than many human beings-he crawled up, 

licked my hand, and followed me home. 

I saw a donkey staggering under a load fit for three, in a 

broiling SUD. It passed our fountain and turned to drink. The 

man, grudging the moment, gave the donkey a push that sent it 

with a crash on the hard stones, crushed under its load, bleeding 

at the nose from thirst and over exertion. Maddened by the 1088 

of time this would entail, the owner jumped upon its head and 

tried to stamp its brains out with his wooden boots. The servants, 

hearing the noise and seeing what I was about, thought the 

human brute had attacked me, and set upon him like hornets. 

I did not stop them till he had received his deserts. Then we 

obliged him to unload his donkey, to let the beast drink, to 

wash its wounds, and to wait whilst it ate barley from my stable. 

I also sent a servant on horseback to tell the whole story to his 

master. The fellow had acted, in fact, as a Lancashire" purrer tt 

treats his wife. 

A man brought me his favourite cat, with back and hind 

quarters crushed by a boy, and asked me if I had any medicine 

to cure it. I said, "Do let me have it killed; one of my servants 

will blow its brains out-it is horribly cruel to keep it alive one 

moment." "May God forgive you such sinfulness," he replied; 

" I will put it in a room, and let it die its natural death" (starvation). 

Half-an-hour afterwards I saw that the boys were torturing 

it in the street. I Sent a servant to bring it in, and to despatch 

it with a bullet. The man was very much shocked. 

A boy brought a donkey to water at the fountain near our 

house. It was evidently worn out with fatigue and thirst, and 

had either a strained back or a disease in the loins, so that the 

suspicion of anything touching its back was a terror to it. Every 

time the poor beast put down its head to drink the boy touched 

the tender place with a switch, which made the whole body 

quiver. It might have been a cabman establishing a "raw." I 

called a servant, who took the donkey a,,'ay, letting it first eat 

and drink, and sent it back to the master. The boy was never 

sent again. 

1 saw a girl of about twelve or thirteen jumping on a nest of


kittens on the road-side, evidently enjoying the distressing 

mewing of the mother. I have often seen boys steal pups in 

the mother's absence, carry them away perhaps for a quarter 

of an hour, play at ball with them on the hard stones, and 

throw them down maimed and to starve. I have seen parents 

give pups and kittens to their children for this purpose, to keep 

them quiet. 

The worstthing I saw wasnot done by a boy or by a brutal boor, 

but by an educated man, and, moreover, a European, in charge of 

an establishment at Beyrout. He used to tie up his horse, a 

good, quiet beast, and with a cow-hide thong beat its head, eyes, 

and the most tender parts for ten minutes. His sister used 

to ride the horse, but lately it had become fractious and illtempered 

through bad usage. Anyone who understood animals 

could see that the poor brute's heart was broken from beating and 

starvation, or from inability to eat. The first time I saw this 

cruelty I "gave him 8 bit of my mind." My Dragoman (llulhem 

Wardi) held me back-" For God's sake, Sitti, don't speak 

to him; he will strike you; he is a madman." I begged him to 

consider his country, his profession, the European name before 

natives, his pretensions to be a gentleman. "But look," he said 

in a whining tone; "look what the horse is doing!" The poor 

beast was standing quite quiet, with despair in its eyes. I could 

not speak politely. "You make me sick, sir. Your horse is 

broken-hearted-it hasn't even the courage to kick you." He 

then said that he was of too nervous and sensitive a disposition; 

and I told him that in that case he ought to be locked up, 

for that he was a dangerous man to have charge of a public institution. 

I told his Consul-Geneml what had occurred, and he 

agreed with me that it was a scandal that pained the whole 

community; but it was not an official matter which could be 

reported to the Ambassador. I heard afterwards that he had 

lost his appointment for roughness to those under him. It was a 

thousand pities, for he was a clever professional. I heard a story 

that is not bad if true-but I will not vouch for it-that a person 

with a sense of humour sent for him, but put a loaded revolver on 

the table close to hand. "What is that for," said the hOll&torturer. 

" Oh, that," said the person, "i8 in case you get ODe of

Humane Society. 261 

your nervous and sensitive attacks while you are attending on 

me ! " It was added that this episode did him good. 

I was walking OKe day through the village of Bludsn, our 

summer quarter in the Anti-Lebanon, and I sawa skeleton donkey 

standing near a cottage, holding up one foot,of which the hoof was 

hanging by a mere thread. 

I called to some of the villagers, "Whose animal is that?" 

An old woman came out and claimed it as her property. 

" How came that about?" I asked, pointing to the foot. 

"Well, I don't know, Sitti. Hard work over the stones." 

"Why is it 80 thin?" 

"You see it could not work any more, and we couldn't afford. 

to keep it idle, so we turned it out, and these four months it has 

only had what it can pick up on the mountain." (The mountain 

was as bare of vegetation as my paper.) 

" What are you going to do with it ? " 

"We had arranged to-night to drive it out on to the mountain, 

and tie it to a stone, and then the wolves will come and eat it." 

" Alive?" I asked in horror. 

"Why yes, Sitti," she said, looking at me as if I were an 

imbecile. "Who could carry it there if it was dead?" 

" Will you sell it to me for 25 piastres (50 pence)? If I can 

cure it the luck is mine; if I can't my money is lost." 

To this she joyfully agreed, though she could hardly help 

laughing in my face at what she supposed to be my knowledge of 

ass-flesh. 

I paid my money, and drove home my donkey, but it was 80 

weak that two hours on its three legs were required to reach our 

garden close by. I need not say that its last days were happy. 

A thick litter was spread in a soft, shady place under the trees; a 

large tub of fresh water, and another of tibn and com, stood by 

it during the rest of its time; its hoof was washed, bandaged, and 

doctored daily. It grew fat, but the vet. discovered that a young 

hoof had begun to grow, and that from total neglect the worms 

had eaten it away. There was no hope that it could ever move 

from that spot, so I had it shot, which the villagers thought very 

sinful. They admired the mercy, but they never could understand 

the necessity of putting an animal out of its misery.

HU/1M/M Society. 263 

of cruelty to animals" were established at Damascus it would 

quickly bring its own reward. 

All of my readers who do not sympathize with the lower 

animals will find these last pages a "bore," but those who do will 

think them full of interest. I trust that no bilious believer in the 

transmigration of souls may read me, or he will certainly incline to 

the opinion that in a former state of being I was an ill-used horse 

or dog. 

In one respect I may mislead my reader, and I do not wish to 

sail under false colours. All these conversations with the natives 

make me appear a first-rate Arabist, whereas I was only a beginner. 

But I soon picked up sufficient to speak broken Arabic intelligible 

to the servants and commoner class. The Syrians are excessively 

intelligent and courteous, and I could always make them understand 

anything required. I always had some one with me who 

could interpret to good society. I knew enough to be aware 

when I was translated wrongly, and to set things right. It 

requires years of study to speak good Arabic, a language which 

one must learn all one's life.

264 The Inner LiJe oj Syria. 

CHAPTER XVllI. 

MOSLEM WEDDING-SICKNESS-BEYBOUT-EXCUBSION8-SOCIETY, 

SCHOOLS, AND MISSIONS-RETURN HOME-I FALL IN LOVE 

WITH DAMASCUS. 

ON the 12th of May I was invited by a Kurdish harim to attend 

certain religious rites, which were proclaimed for three days by 

the beatings of tom-toms in the gardens, and by the joy-cry of 

the women. I went also to a Moslem wedding of the Sunni 

sect, accompanied by three or four other women, at about eight 

in the evening. The street was full of people. Two houses 

were brilliantly lit up, one for the men, and one for the women. 

My husband and I went first to the former The men were sitting 

around on divans, smoking and talking. There was music in the 

court-yard, which was illuminated by coloured lanterns, and the 

bridegroom was being dressed by his friends in new garments. 

These feasts are always more attractive in the harims, so I soon 

left my husband and proceeded to the other house. The women 

were dancing, singing, smoking, and eating sweatmeats, in their 

best dresses, gaudily painted and be-jewelled. 

The bride presently entered, supported by two friends, and her 

head rested on a third behind, the eyes closed, to represent a 

fainting state. Her face was painted, her hands, feet and face 

were dyed with henna in stars and crescents; she was handsomely 

dressed in silk, and covered with ornaments. Then the bridegroom 

was admitted below, and the bride, attended by all the women, 

went to meet him. She kissed his hand, and put it to her forehead, 

and he, taking her hand, led her upstairs. These two were 

seated on a divan-the bride in her fainting and reclining position,

266 The Inner Life oj Syria. 

God. He attended my patients, and distributed my work for 

the week. 

I wore an outside woollen dress whilst attending cases, which I 

hung on a tree, and which never entered my house, and & bag of 

camphor prevented my taking or giving infection. However, at 

last I was struck down by one of those virulent nameless attacks, 

which, if neglected here, ends in death. It was complicated by 

rheumatism, and, finally, I could not move out of a recumbent 

position without fainting. An instinct warned me to change air, 

but the doctor refused for eight or ten days, and on my part I felt 

it would be then too late to move for any place but the rubbish 

heap outside Bab Sharki, My English maid wasdesired to engage 

the whole coupe of the French diligence for the next day. A bed 

was made of pillows and rugs the whole length of the seat. I was 

moved down to it at three in the morning, and she sat beside me 

on the floor. Two hours out of Damascus I was able to rise; at the 

halfway-house in the Buks'a I could eat; and when I arrived at 

Beyrout after fourteen hours, I felt almost well. I insert this for 

the use of other travellers, who almost always stop to die. I had 

three weeks' sea-bathing at Beyrout, which is delicious, except in 

the too hot weather. I found here the Count de Perroehel, who 

went to Palmyra with us, and the two ladies, Miss A-- and Miss 

F--, whose horses I had saved from starvation. 

We kept Her Majesty's birthday at the Oonsulate-General, It 

is the custom for a Consul on such occasions to make a flte, something 

like my "'Vednesday's," only with more pomp, and everybody 

visits him to congratulate him. We also made seveml little 

expeditions to Nahr el Kelb (the Dog river),.to the Isle of Pigeons; 

and my husband and Hanna Misk went to Tyre, Sidon, Carmel, 

and Juneh. I was too weak that time, yet it would have been 

such a pleasure to have visited the grave of Lady Hester Stanhope. 

We sailed on the 29th of May in an open boat to visit the 

Dog river, at whose mouth are some' cafes to which Beyroutines 

ride on the cool summer evenings. We could not land because 

the sea was too heavy, so we went farther north, and landed at 

Juniah, a pretty bay backed by highlands. Villages are scattered 

or dotted all about the mountain sides. We stopped at a smaller

268 T/U3 Inner Life of Syria. 

ancients, seized the crucifix, and, saying, "Our fathers covered 

Christ with insults, let us be worthy of them," committed many 

sacrileges, taking the image off, and going through the scene 

again; but when they pierced the side, to their fright and surprise 

blood and water did gush forth. They ran for a vase and 

caught it, saying, "The sect who followed Christ declared he 

did miracles, Let us carry this to our Synagogue. We will pour 

it on the incurable sick, and if what they told us were true, the 

patients will be cured." They did so, and collected all the paralyzed, 

blind, and lepers of the town, who were forthwith cured. 

Then the Jews, bowed down with sorrow for their crime, became 

Christians, and the Synagogue was changed into a Church, and 

called St. Saviour. Then they sought to find the origin of this 

crucifix, and proved it to have been made by the Nicodemus who 

assisted Joseph of Arimathea to take our Saviour down from the 

cross and to bury Him; it had belonged to Gamaliel, to St. Paul, 

and St. James. They celebrate the feast of this miracle now-adays 

every 9th of November. The then Bishop of Beyrout put the 

precious blood and water into tiny phials, and sent them to some 

of the principal churches in the world-one to the Imperial 

Church of Constantinople, and another to San Marco at Venice, 

which is there now amongst the treasures of the basilica. All 

these pions legends I shall relate, with the simple faith in which 

they are told by the Holy Roman Catholic Church, because we 

know that the crucifix was utterly unknown in those days. In 

fact the crucifix, which is and has been for so long an object 

of veneration to us, was at first made by our enemies to insult 

the Christians, as was the first blasphemous specimen found at 

Pompeii. 

On the 6th of June we were much shocked by the news of the 

sudden death of our French Consul's young wife at Damascus. 

Madame Roustan was a universal favourite. 

There are many pleasant people at Beyrout. First and 

foremost, the French Consul-General, Baron Rousseau, and his 

charming wife. Their society was a great pleasure, and I used to 

spend all my evenings on their terrace, which commanded not 

only the City and the sea, but a magnificent view of the Lebanon. 

These happy evenings, like all bright things, slipped away only

SOC'iety alia Schools. 269 

too soon. He died shortly afterwards, and she left Beyrout 

steeped in sorrow. The Counts de Perthuis and }[. Peretie were 

charming French gentlemen, and the latter a savant, with a wonderful 

collection of antiquities. There is also a colony of hospitable, 

kind-hearted English residents, each one in a profession or 

in commerce. At Beyrout, also, are the head-quarters of the 

Schools and Colleges. I will first notice the Roman Catholic, 

which are six :-The Capuchin-church and monastery; the 

French Jesuits-c-church, monastery, and school; the Spanish 

(Terra Santa) Franciscans-monastery and school; the French 

Dames de Nazareth-convent, school, and church; the French 

Lazarist Fathers-monastery, church, and school; the French 

Sisters of Charity-convent, church, school and day school, 

orphanage, and hospital. All these schools are very extensive, 

more than suiting 72,000 souls; indeed, I fear that every boy 

will presently have his own schoolmaster. The Sceurs de Charita 

undertake the poor on a very large scale; the Lazarists do likewise. 

The highest order of education is the Jesuits. It is superfluous 

to say that they arc men of the world, of high intellect, 

and of finished education-not from the ranks. Their printingpress 

issues a newspaper, and school-books in Arabic and other 

languages. The Dames de Nazareth teach the girls of the best 

families; many of the nuns are of the ancienne noblesse of France, 

and consequently the native girls are brought up like the Sacra 

Coeur or the Fosse in Paris. I often went there, and was present 

at the l\lidnight Mass and Communion of Christmas Eve. The 

girls looked lady-like and well-bred. I could have shut my 

eyes and fancied myself at home. They sang the service with 

tenderness and devotion, and no native twang. The six religious 

Roman Catholic houses educate some thousands, they support 

many poor, and their hospital cures a still larger number of 

sick and wounded. In the branch house at Damascus, above 

65,000 passed through in my first year's residence, and the 

Beyrout establishment is four times as large. 

1 will now pass to the Prussians, or rather Germans, who 

have a splendidly organized school, conducted by a convent 

of Protestant sisters. Everything that I have seen or heard of 

them redounds to their credit. The girls are strictly kept and


well educated. There is an American Protestant establishment, 

a college where young men receive a good general education; 

and whose managers-Dr. Bliss, Dr. Post, and Dr. Jessop-are 

clever and highly respected men. No pains are spared, and all 

the popular branches of science are attended to. There are also 

a hospital, and a medical school, with five professor-doctors. 

Dr. Brigstock (English), a good Christian gentleman and a clever 

medico. He has mastered Arabic, he gives scientific lectures to the 

students, and he has set on foot several praiseworthy schemes in 

the cause of medecine, The others are Dr. Post, Dr. Van-Dyck 

(United States), Dr. Wortabet (an Armenian), and Dr. Suquet 

(French). 

We have also British Syrian schools. The Maison Mere has 

twenty-three branches, great and small, all Presbyterian. This 

establishment wasbegun under Mrs. BowenThompson in 1860, and 

it prospered exceedingly, but unfortunately she died in 1869. The 

money and the presents bestowed on these schools by charitable 

England would be enough to educate all Syria. Those who are 

interested in the British Syrian schools, or who have girls in 

them, can learn from other sources what the teaching is, and what 

it is not. I can only tell what I have seen. The Lady Superintendent 

of the school at Damascus, in my time, was Miss Fanny 

James. I watched her with a critical eye for two years, day by 

day, and I saw her earnestly, humbly, and truthfully doing her 

duty. She was truly a Christian and a good woman, fitted for 

her place. All who knew her liked her and trusted her. She 

loved her work, and did it as if she loved it. I hardly ever saw 

her take an hour's recreation. When she became, as it were, 80 

wedded to the schools as to have given up her life to them, 

she was told suddenly that her services were no longer required, 

and she was sent home as if she had done something wrong. This 

violent act somewhat scandalized the natives, and still more the 

Europeans. I also watched l\liss Ellen Wilson, of Zahleh, who 

was entrusted with a similar mission in a very difficult position. 

I once went to stay with her, in the hope of being of some service, 

as she stood alone and unprotected in a town inhabited by 12,000 

or 13,000 warlike men of my co-religionists, with whom I have 

much sympathy, and for whom I have great admiration. She

Missions. 271 

went there at a time when everybody else was afraid-when they 

stoned out the American Mission, and would not allow them to 

sleep the night there; but, in her quiet way, that lone, humbleminded 

woman did establish herself, and 80 commanded the 

respect of all men. But I am told that she also has shared the 

fate of Miss James. The establishment that discharges such 

servants must have something very uncanny in it.- Besides these 

two brightest ornaments of our schools, there was a Miss Adie, 

who, from the way that she examined the children, struck me 88 

having passed at a training college. She also has now left. 

Were I about to establish a charitable institution in Syria 

-school or hospital, orphanage or almshouse, refuge for the 

destitute, or what not-I should look for what is seriously wanted 

in Syria for such an office, a Lady! I should search England 

for a real Christian of gentle birth, who wished to forget her rank, 

her" set," her position in the world, her luxuries, her toilette, and 

to give herself up entirely to the love of God and His good works. 

Some woman who, willing but unable to condense herself into 

a convent, would be God's Apostle in the world. There are 

hundreds of them in the "upper ten." 1\'ly" treasure" found, 

would be humble and patient under difficulties and all kinds of 

displeasures, always energetic, ever seeing a way out of this or 

that obstacle, never repulsing faulty human nature, conciliatory 

instead of aggressive, making all possible concessions to attract 

people to her fold. She would not strive for mere popularity, nor 

always be doing what would sound well in England. She would 

not set Syria on fire with strife, and then, when she found the 

whole country against her, dress u}) l\lusa or Suleiman in a green 

and gold dress at Exeter Hall, to deceive earnest, generous, 

unsuspecting English Christians, and sweep their money wholesale 

into a sieve. My" treasure" would have charge of the 

schools, but a gentleman of sound college education should be 

• I am glad to learn, at this present date, that llis8 Wilson, having ceased her 

connection with the British Syrian schools, is going to start a school of her own in 

the district of Ell\lctn: and I can earnestly and cordially recommend any person 

wishing to forward educational projects, to invest their charities by placing native 

children under her care. Her school at Zableh, whilst she had it, was universally 

acknowledged to be the beat of the twenty-four establishments called the British 

Syrian eohoola. I sincerely hope that Mill James and Mi. Adie may join her.

Schools and Missions. 275 

the sake of self-importance. Their constant reports to England 

and Constantinople upon the un-Christian sentiments and conduct 

of such a one who hinders them from "doing their spiriting 

gently," "walking in the footsteps of Jesus," and " revelling in the 

happiness of their Christian work," only excite ridicule and stamp 

011t religion. The least sign of such dispositions would debar any 

candidate from being admitted to 'Iny school, or dismiss them on 

their first development-not only for the vulgarity of the thing, 

but for the evil impression made by civilized and educated 

Christians upon uncivilized and uneducated Christians. We had 

better let education alone till we understand our business better, 

and until we have learnt to introduce our virtues and leave our 

vices at home. The children will copy their Native Teachers, 

the Native Teachers will copy the English Superintendents of the 

branch schools, the Superintendents will copy the MiRtress of the 

whole Establishment. My first care would be to look for my 

English Apostle-woman, and those likely to imitate her. 

I did not know, until this visit to the sea coast, that there 

exists ill-feeling between Beyrout and Damaseus ; it may perhaps 

be summed up in the following way:- 

On arriving in Syria, one lands at a pretty town of no very 

great importance to the world, but the concentration of all that 

Syria knows of comfort, luxury, and pleasure. Christian and 

semi-civilized, it has its soldiers and policemen, its ships and 

sailors, its semi-European mode of living and manners, and its 

free communication with Europe by telegraphs and regular mails. 

80 far it has the advantage over Damascus. Steamers anchor in the 

open roadstead-there is no harbour, pier, or landing place, save a 

few broken, unclean steps leading to a small, dirty custom-house 

quay-an occasional merchant-ship appears, and at times some 

wandering man-of-war. It is ruled by a Governor, subject to the 

'Vali, who rules Syria, being in fact Viceroy to the Sultan. This 

Great Official lives at Damascus, and visits Beyrout for sea-bathing 

and to make holiday. It is also the residence of the Consuls 

General, who represent Foreign Powers and European influence, 

anrl are very great people in their ,vay; and also of a large 

European society of different professions. Beyrout is backed by 

the high range of the Lebanon, which is inhabited by Druzes and

276 TJuJ Inner Life oj Syria. 

Maronites, and ruled by a separate Governor, independent of the 

Wali. After crossing the Lebanon and descending into the plain 

of the Buka'a (Coale-Syria), Civilization, Christianity, and all free 

communication with the outer world are left behind; as are comforts, 

luxuries, and society, whilst the Damascene is completely 

at the mercy of the Beyroutine as to how much or how little he 

may receive of the necessary help such as man should give to his 

fellow-man. For safety, he is self-dependent on his own personal 

courage and his knowledge of the East, and woe betide the hapless 

one who has no friend at Beyrout. Here, again, the Beyroutine 

has the advantage over the Damascene, who steps forth into the 

solemnity of Orientalism, which increases upon him during the 

sometimes dreary and barren seventy-two miles' journey, and he 

finds himself in the heart of Oriental life in the City of Damascus. 

This Orientalism is the great charm of " the Pearl of the East." 

She is still pure and innocent of anything like Europeanism. 

However much the wanderer may dislike it at first, the life 80 

grows upon him, that, after a time, to quit it would be a wrench. 

But this is what makes the demi-semi-fashionable of Beyrout hate 

Damascus, with a spice of fear, knowing nothing of her attractions; 

whilst she, on her side, lazily despises the effeminate, 

luxurious, and feeble Beyroutine. 

June 15th.-As I approached Damascus, I saw how lovely it 

was, bathed in the evening sun. I cannot tell what changed me, 

but this day I fell in love with the place, and my affections and 

interests, my life and work, knitted and grew to that Salahiyyeh 

home, where I would willingly have remained all my days. The 

wanderer's life is against and forbids attachments to places, things, 

or people, which must be constantly torn asunder. It is a sad 

thing to care for anything that is not one's own by right-happiness 

which depends on the will of others can be snatched away 

from us at any moment. Whenever the wanderer lingers a while 

and becomes attached, Fate falls upon him sternly, and cries 

"move on." \Vith this presentiment 1 greedily drank in, whilst I 

could, all the truths which the Desert breathes, and learnt all that 

I could of Oriental mysteries, set my hands to do all the good 

that they could find to do, until they were full to overflowing. 

JURtJ 18th.-I went to visit our poor bereaved. friend thE'


is in the middle of the house, opening on to the verandah, which 

overhung the glorious view, We surrounded it by low divans, 

and the walls became an armoury of weapons. The rooms on 

either side of the reception-saloon were turned into a study for 

Captain Burton, a sleeping-room, and a study and dressing-room 

for me. A large room downstairs, under, and corresponding with, 

the reception-room, and with the same view, W88 set apart for 

guests, and all the rest of the house was devoted to domestic uses. 

Under the house, in fact, the whole ground floor formed a capital 

stable, which could contain eight horses. There are no windows, 

only wooden shutters to close at night. The utter solitude, the 

wildness of the life, all absence of ltUU, and no society; being 

thoroughly alone with nature and one's own thoughts is very 

soothing. 

Next day, the Sbaykhs and principal people of Zebedani, 

Bludan, Ma'arablin, Madaya, Sarghaya, and all the surrounding 

villages, came to pay their respects. Several fatted sheep were 

killed, and stuffed with rice and pistachio nuts; all feasted, and 

went away happy. We were now their Jinin (neighbours), and, 

whatever may be the case in Europe, this tie in the East has 

its uses and its duties, as well 8S its pleasures and displeasures. 

The following morning we commenced the experiments of 

baking our own bread, making our own butter, and all the ways 

of farm-house life. But we eventually found that the Bedawin 

two or three hours away made better butter than we did, from the 

milk of their goats and camels; and when we wanted meat, we 

learnt that the simplest way was to buy a sheep or kid from a 

passing flock. 

Our days here were the perfection of living. We used to 

wake at dawn, make a cup of tea, and, accompanied by the dogs, 

take long walks over the mountains with our guns. The larger 

game were bears (very scarce), gazelles, wolves, wild boars, and 

the nimr (a small leopard); but for these we had to go far, and 

watch in silepce before dawn. The small game nearer home were 

partridges, quails, and woodcocks, with hares and wild duck. As 

regards shooting, I do not like to kill any small, useless, or 

harmless thing, but only what is needed for eating, or large game, 

when the beast will kill you if you do not kill it. I cannot bear

Life itt the Anti-Lebanon. 281 

to see a gazelle hunted; I dislike the Hurlingham pigeon 

matches, and the battu slaughters in England, the mangled, 

quivering heaps of half-slain hares and rabbits, upon which I 

have seen even girls look unmoved. It is all a matter of habit; 

but this is not my idea of " sport." 

The hot part of the day was spent in reading, writing, 

studying Arabic. At twelve we had our first meal, which served 

as breakfast and luncheon, on the terrace. Sometimes in the 

afternoon, native Shaykhs, or English from Beyrout or Damascus, 

came to visit us, or tourists to look at us en passante We set up 

a tir in the garden, and used to fence, or practice pistol or rifle 

shooting, or put on the cavesson and lunge the horses if they had 

had no exercise. 

At the hour when the sun became cooler, all the poor within 

fifteen or sixteen miles around would come to be doctored. The 

hungry, the thirsty, the ragged, the sick and sorry, filled our 

garden at that time, and I used to make it my duty and pleasure 

to attend to them. If it was a grievance, I did not "set myself 

up as a justice," but I used to write out their case for them as 

they told it to me, and then write upon it," For the kind consideration 

of such a Consul, or such a Pasha." Without such a 

paper the man would probably never have gained a hearing 

beyond a Kawwass. This was quite en regie in the East, and 

what was expected of me, or of any lady holding a good position. 

The Turkish authorities and the Consuls always liked to oblige 

each other in these little marks of entente C01·diale-unofficially, 

be it understood. I only did this in cases of tyranny and oppression, 

and I am happy to say that no one, Turkish or European, ever 

rejected one of my cases, or found them untruthful. The others 

were dismissed with money or clothing, food or medicine, and all 

with sympathy. If a favourable and proper opportunity occurred, 

I used to read them a prayer or a text of Scripture suited to 

their case, and have it expounded by an educated native. This, 

accompanied with bodily relief and kind words, often lies nearer 

the heart than a cold sermon upon an empty stomach. I seldom 

had fewer than fifty a day, half of them eye diseases. A good 

reputation is 80 easily earned in such a kind-hearted country, that 

people used to come on foot from thirty miles to see me.


Before dinner, especially if anybody was staying with us, we 

used to assemble in the garden to eat a few mouthfuls of leben 

salad, which I described in my chapter on shopping, and to drink 

a liqueur glass of raki. This gave sufficient appetite for dinner at 

seven on the terrace, sometimes a difficult matter in that climate. 

Divans were then spread on the housetop, and we used to watch 

the moon lighting up Hermon, whilst the after-dinner pipe was 

smoked. The horses were picketted out all these summer nights, 

and the Saises slept with them. The pianette from Damascus 

enabled us to have a little music. Then I used to assemble the 

servants, read the night prayers to them, and a small bit of 

Scripture, or of Thomas a Kempis. The last thing was to go 

round the premises to see that everything was right, and tum 

out the dogs on guard. And then to bed. The mails came once 

a fortnight, and my husband was obliged to ride into Damascus 

every few days to see that all was going on well. 

The first Sunday I had service at home, the Arab servants 

(Christians) chaunting their parts. After that I found there was 

a chapel-although a very wretched one-in Zebedani, with a 

priest from the ranks, and about fifty poor communicants; so I 

made a point of riding there every Sunday, and very hard work 

it was. The path was so steep, and so covered with rolling st-ones, 

that it generally occupied nearly an hour and a half, the horses 

sliding down with every step. The people were very devout, 

but the heat, atmosphere, and noise were dreadful. The fact of 

my coming with servants and Kawwasses drew a great part of 

the village into the court, and the Shaykhs and chief l\loslems 

generally insisted upon accompanying me. I always took this 

public occasion of paying the poor priest as much respect as I 

should to a Cardinal in Europe, to show them how the clergy ought 

to be treated, and also to induce my Moslem friends to put him on 

equal and amicable terms. l\Iass was celebrated on an old box 

covered with a bit of ragged print, the priest bringing with him 

a silver chalice and an incense fumer. After this I used to go to 

the Shaykh's house, and rode back accompanied by the whole 

party. 

July 7th.-To-day we heard of the sad news of poor Lord 

Clarendon's death; and we were truly grieved to lose our good

Life in the Anti-Lebanon. 283 

Chief. Few, perhaps, amongst us, but have some happy recollection 

of that kind, true heart. He belonged to a breed of gentlemen 

that is fast dying out.-R. I. P. . 

July 8th.-We set out at four a.m., sending on our cook with 

breakfast, to the source of the Barsda. We walked down to 

Zebedo.ni, and then rode to the caves on the opposite mountains, 

.and saw the rock tombs and inscriptions. Then we galloped 

across the plain till we reached the Sources, the Shaykhs and a 

large train following U8. I do not know whether they were 

accustomed to see women riding or not, but they gave me the 

idea of looking every instant to see when I was going to fall, 

and uttering loud Mashallahs if my horse jumped. We breakfasted 

under the solitary tree which marks the Sources-the 

fountain gushes from under a rock, and is beautifully bright 

and clear. There is a large piece of water, with rushes and grass 

at the edges, and the middle is full of small fish. During our 

meal we were visited by a flight of locusts. On leaving, we 

waded across the river on horseback, and had a rare gallop home. 

'Ve were, however, obliged to part with our cook. He was so 

fat that he could not ride; he had to be hoisted and pushed up 

on to his horse, which was of necessity a very strong one, and he 

could never be let down again the whole day. 

The following journal may serve 88 a good specimen of our 

lives in the Anti-Lebanon :- 

J.uly 9th.-Captain Burton went to Damascus on business. We 

started at four in the morning, and first descended a very steep 

1000 feet on foot. 'Ve rode along the plain oC Zebedani, and 

branched off to our left over hideous, bleak, stony mountains, 

where welost our way. At last wecame to the object oC our search. 

On a height stood Abel's tomb, just above Suk 'Vady Baroda. 

It is a low, two-arched shed, like 8 box, open on one side to a 

little garden, containing one holm oak, a wall around of piled 

up stones; one olive is near it. There are the remains, also, of an 

old Temple of the Sun, afterwards Christianized, and, if my 

memory does not fail me, it is in the form of a cross. We also 

saw a sacred cave, a deep well, and an ancient drinking trough 

for animals, now full of holes. From these buildings we made


a descent, fit only for goats, into the valley; and we sat all the 

hot part of the day in a delicious grove, under the path going 

into the village of Suk, by the side of the rushing Harada. We 

ate water-melons, slept, talked, and breakfasted. At two p.m., 

Captain Burton and Hanna l\lisk rode on to Damascus, and I 

turned my horse's head back to Bludsn, accompanied by Habib, 

my husband's servant. When we reached the plain of Zebedani, 

he dismounted for a moment, and his mare broke loose, which 

made my horse very restive. We had so much trouble in catching 

her that we did not reach home till six p.m. 

July llth.-We went down to Zebedani, and visited the Suk 

(hazar) and all the places of worship, which were very poor. We 

breakfasted at the Shaykh's, who had an Arab dance. They 

invited the priest and the chief Christians, and all became very 

friendly, and the Shaykhs and Moslems promised in all future 

times to protect the latter in case of differences or dangers arising. 

This day I met a strange mother. An Arab woman had a little 

crippled child about eighteen months old, whose life was 

evidently a misery to it. She had let it fall from the roof when 

a baby. She expected me to heal it. Dr. Brigstock, our kind, 

charitable friend at Beyrout, took all my poor cases that were too 

complicated for an amateur, and he has saved many a. life for me. 

He would have cured this poor little thing for me. The parents, 

however, hesitated; I took them up to our house, and passed the 

day trying to persuade them. Still they would not; they said 

they had so many children, that this one being crooked did not 

much matter. I tried to make them look into the future, and to 

imagine what the child would feel when grown up, and had to sit 

in the corner all day, dependent on the others, instead of earning 

his own living; but it was time lost. 

July 17th.-We went out before dawn bear hunting, but 

were not successful. We saw the fresh trail over the mountains, 

but that was all. The beaters came back dancing, singing, and 

firing guns, as if we had killed our dozens. 

July 18th.-We suddenly received visitors, and were very gay 

for a short time. One day arrived l\Ir. Johnstone and Mr. \Vil80D, 

appointed Vice-Consul near Tarsus. They camped in the garden 

and lived with us. Mr. Wilson was a clever man, given to literary

286 The Inner Life of Syr-ia. 

marked on maps Ain el Hawar (Fount of the Poplars), pronounced 

Ain Hoor. \Vading through a brook, followed by yelping 

Pariahs, we then reached Sarghaya, where several village 

Shaykhs met us and led us to breakfast. Passing through sterile 

and rocky mountains, and leaving to our right a bridge and the 

temple-ruins of Ma'arabun, we came to the valley of Yaftifah, 

well-wooded, with a beautiful brook or stream (Saradah) running 

through it. The contrast was sudden and striking between the 

wild highland divide and the nestling lowland, and this contrast 

is never absent from Syria. The scenery was bold and beautiful, 

but the ground bad for horses, and in crossing some of the rocky 

places we were obliged to dismount, leaving the animals free to 

pick their own way. The worst part was before reaching Neby 

Shith (Seth), which, like all the patriarchs' tombs, is of proportionate 

length to their age and honour. All the Adamical and 

Noachian patriarchs are buried, by tradition, about Damascus, 

except Adam, or his head, at Calvary. Cain behind our house at 

Salahiyyeh, they say, slew Abel. Abel is buried, as we remember, 

about Stik Wady Barade. Lamech slew Cain-if he did slay him 

--on Carmel. Noah reposes at Karak, near Mu'allakah, a suburb 

. of Zahleh. Seth's tomb here has a bird's-eye view of Coole-Syria, 

and that of Ham is a few furlongs eastward, both near Kh ray bah. 

They generally measure an immoderate size, and, as we might 

expect, many of them are in duplicate. Naturally enough, whilst 

the Christian Adam lies close to the Holy Sepulchre, the Moslem 

Adam is buried near Mecca. 

There was a mosque and tombs around Neby Shith, but in a 

ruined state. We halted here an hour, and then rode on to 

Khraybah, where live some excellent neighbours of ours, Mr. and 

Mrs. Rattray. She is as clever as she can be: deeply read, she 

speaks many European languages, and Arabic especially well. 

She rides, shoots, and lives quite in these wilds amongst the 

natives with her husband, far away from all civilized society. 

They made a mariaqe de coeur, built a hut, and live here quite 

in a Robinson Crusoe style; they shoot their dinner, and farm 

a village. I believe owning a village is something like a farm 

let out to a person by the Turkish Government, but as I never 

had one I do not understand it. I should like to have Mr.

Ba'albak. 289 

hideous addition, this bonnet de""uit, which must now be regarded as a 

necessary evil I may here remark, for the benefit of general readers, that 

no one can form a conception of the size of the stones used for building 

Heliopolis, unless they have seen them. The three famous ones measuring 

64 feet, 63 feet 8 inches, and 63 feet long-each 13 feet in height and 

breadth, and raised to a height of 20 feet or more-take away one's 

breath, and compel one to sit before them only to get more and more 

puzzled, and to think how very superior in stone lifting and transporting 

the Pagans must have been to us in 1870. 

The first work was to demolish the ignoble eastern masking wall At 

an interview with the local authorities it was agreed that they should 

supply labour on condition of being allowed to carry off' the building 

material. During our stay of five days the upper part of the barbarous 

screen had been removed, much to the benefit of the temple; and it 

was a great excitement to the small population of the village of Ba'albak 

to see the huge masses of stone coming down with a thud. 

We intended next to expose, by clearing away the rubbish heap at the 

proper.entrance, the alt-reliefs extending on both sides of the great portal. 

Lastly, we had planned to underpin the falling keystone with a porphyry 

shaft, of which there are several in the Jami el Kabir, or chief mosque. 

The prop was to be as thin as possible, so as not to hide the grand old 

eagle, emblem of Baal, the Sun-God, which occupies the lower surface of 

the middle soffit stone. 

Unhappily, Mr. Barker, immediately on begisning work, was summoned 

to Damascus by Rashid Pasha, who, having off'ered to carry out the improvements, 

changed his mind suddenly, inexplicably, a la Turque. He 

objected to the worthless building materials being given away; the why 

will not interest your readers. The English nation would have spent . 

hundreds of pounds in such cause, and we could have done it with pence; 

but you cannot succeed in making an Oriental brain understand that a few 

piastres in the pocket is not a greater glory than saving these splendid 

antiquities. The indolent Eastern will only shrug his shoulders and call 

you majnun (madman), and if he can put a spoke in your wheel-well, it 

might give him an emotion, and he will not neglect his opportunity. So 

Mr. Barker was kept doing nothing at head-quarters, hardly ever admitted 

to the "presence," and after short, rare visits, uncourteously dismissed. 

About the end of August he was ordered to layout a road between Tripoli 

and Hamah-not a carriage road, but a mere mule path, which half a dozen 

fellahs and donkey-boys could have done as well as a civil engineer. 

Thus poor Ba'albak has been again abandoned to the decay and desolation 

of the last fourteen centuries. We do not despair, however, of carrying 

out our views,and we can only hope that when His Excellency haa finished 

U


his mule-path he will help us. Perhaps he would, if he could understand 

how all civilized people care about this our undertaking, and how much it 

would redound to the credit of Constantinople to patronize a scientific 

cause. 

I hope my friends who visit Ba'albak will let this letter supplement 

"Murray," and by all means prefer to the latter the plan of the ruins given 

by Joanne et Isambert. 

The temples are, doubtless, the main attraction, but they are not everything, 

at Heliopolis. A day may well be devoted to the following programme 

:-Walk up the hill to the south-east of the Kala'ah examining 

the remains of the western wall about the gate now called "Bawwabet 

Danris," or "El Sirr." Visit the rock tombs and sepulchral caves, the 

remains of the small temple and Doric columns, and the Saracen Kubbat 

(dome), under which lies Melek el Amjad, of the Seljukian dynasty. From 

this high point the view of the ruins and of the valley is absolutely charming. 

Descend to the nearest makla (quarries) and measure--every one 

does with different results-the Hajar el Hableh, or "pregnant stone," 88 

the huge unfinished block is called. Our figures were 70 feet long, 14 feet 

2 inches high, and 13 feet 11 inches broad. It was doubtless cut and prepared 

for building, but not detached from the quarry at one end, and the 

extraordinary sight makes you exclaim, "Something must have frightened 

the men away before they had time to carry it off. Ride to the Kubbat 

Dauris, so named from a neighbouring village; its eight columns of fine 

granite have doubtless been removed from the classic building. Thence 

proceed to the other quarries to the north of the temples. 

After some six indirect miles nearly due west (279 deg. magnetic) of 

the ruins you strike the sources of the Litani, or River of Tyre, and of the 

Asi (Orontes), which rise at the eastern foot of the Lebanon outliers, 

within one short mile of each other. On the way you can enter the tents 

of the Turkomans, who, though wandering about Syria since the days of 

the Crusaders, have preserved, like their neighbours, the Nuwar (gipsies), 

their ancesttallanguage and customs. From the sources turn to the northeast 

and see the Kamu'a Iyad, named from the neighbouring village, 

evidently a memorial column like that of Alilamus still standing at Palmyra. 

Thence, across the north-eastern quarries, cut in steps like the 

Egyptian, to the eastern wall of Ba'albak. This must be carefully examined, 

and its difference from that of Tadmor, a succession of mausolea, 

should be duly noted. 

Most travellers will now gladly return to their tents. If unwilling to 

expend a second, they will remount about 2 p.m., and follow up to ita 

source the little mountain torrent Ain Lujuj. If the weather be not too 

cold, they can descend the NaJmeh, or shaft, explore the tunnel with

Ba'albak. 291 

magnesium wire, and extend the subterranean journey as far as the iron 

door reported by the natives. We found the prospect peculiarly uninviting. 

Retracing steps down the WOOy, and visiting the tombs of the feudal 

house of Harfush, you strike the valley of the Ba'albak waters at the 

source known as the Ras el AiD. This is by far the quietest and the 

prettiest spot for pitching tents, but most people prefer, for convenience, 

to encamp amid the ruins. Examine the two mosques, the larger built by 

the Melek el Azad, son of the celebrated Melek el Dhahir, and the smaller, 

"Jami el Melawiyeh," dating, as the inscription shows, from A.B. 619, 

and erected by the Melek el Dhahir himself. 

Those who have spare time might try digging in the mortuary caverns, 

which riddle the soft chalky cliff on the proper left of the river valley. 

Even at Ba'albak little has been done in the way of !01J,iUe8. The general 

visitor stays one day, and after looking at the temples goes on his way 

rejoicing that he has done his Ba'albak. M. Joyau, a young French artist, 

"Grand PN de Rmne," who, employed by his Govemment, spent some 

months in measuring and modelling the temples, seems to have made a 

cross cut on the south of the remaining six columns which mark the great 

Temple of Baal. There has, however, been no work on a grand scale, and 

I am convinced that excavations would produce valuable results. Lastly, 

as the sun is sinking behind the giant wall in front of you, you pass down 

the valley of Ras el Ain to the tents or house, and you thus end the 

supplementary ride. 

In fine weather nothing can be more delightful than this excursion. 

The clear, crisp, pure air at an elevation of 3,000 feet above sea level, the 

abundance of water "more splendid than glass ;" the variety, the novelty, 

and the glorious associations of the view; the sublime aspect of the ruins 

crowning the fertile valley, and backed by the eternal mountains; the 

manifold contrasts of stony brown range, barren yellow fiat, luxuriant 

verdure of irrigated field and orchard, and-last, not least-the ermined 

shoulders of Hermon, Sannin, and Arz Libnan (the Cedar Ridge), thrown 

out into such relief by the diaphanous blue sky that they seem to be within 

cannon shot-if these things will not satisfy a traveller's tastes, I don't 

know what will. 

This letter was taken up by John D. Crace, Esq, who tried his 

influence with the Royal Institute of British Architects, and by 

letters in "The Builder," to render this service to art and archesology. 

He mentioned, in the same strain as the ruins of Ba'albak, 

the Castle of Banias and the neighbourhood of Abila. Finally, 

in 1874, I hear that a French architect has been sent to 

Ba'albak.

292 The Inner Life of By-ria. 

Nearly a year and a half later Mr. Drake returned, and 

published the following letter:- 

Allow me through your columns to plead for the ruins of Ba'albak. 

After an interval of sixteen months I have lately revisited them, and 

was astonished to see how much damage had been done in that time, 

chiefly by frost and rain, especially to the seven columns of the Great 

Temple. . 

The third pillar from the east is in a very bad state; its base is undermined 

northwards to a depth of 3 feet: some 5 feet or 6 feet of the lower 

stone have flaked away in large pieces, and the stones are generally scaling. 

The cornice above No. 3 and No. 4 is cracked midway between the 

columns, and as the stone is crumbling away it seems in great danger 

of falling. 

A Jarge mass at the north-west corner of the square base supporting 

the western column has been broken away by frost, and the column now 

overhangs thirteen inches. 

All the columns have been more or less undermined by the natives, 

who thus endanger them for the sake of the metal clamps worth a few 

piastres; and unless something is done the fine columns will soon have 

fallen. 

A few iron bands round the columns connected by bars, and a little 

careful underpinning, would doubtless preserve them for many years, and 

I have no doubt that permission to do this would readily be obtained from 

the new Wall of Syria, whom all speak of as an honourable and intelligent 

man. 

Could not a subscription be made up in England-I believe £40 01" 

£50 would suffiee--and then would not some architect or civil engineer, 

intending to visit Palestine during the ensuing tourist season, volunteer to 

stay a few days and see the thing done 1 

I fear that if it be not set about within a year it will then be too late. 

I remain, Sir, etc., 

CHAS. F. TYRWHITT-DBAKB. 

Damascus, Nov. 20th, 1871. 

The first day the Governor dined with us. In the morning 

three ladies paid us a visit in the ruins: with their blue satin and 

diamonds they were the best dressed women I had seen for a long 

time. Our muleteers mutinied and refused to fetch "tibn," but 

they" gave in" after a time. On Sunday I heard mass at the 

Maronite Chapel, and returned the calls. We also dined with the

Ba'albak. 293 

Governor, a civilized, well-educated man, who illuminated his 

house for us. We passed a most enjoyable evening, I chiefly in 

the harim. As I could not relate a story in Arabic, the Governor 

allowed me to blind-fold Hanna Misk, and to take him in as 

interpreter, he himself being present. One night Mr. Tyrwhitt 

Drake and I lit up the ruins with magnesium. I cannot describe 

the beautiful effect; but many who are familiar with the transformation 

scenes of the Princess's Theatre may realize a shadow 

of it by shutting their eyes, and by fancying a real, gigantic transformation 

scene in a Desert plain. Every night jackals played 

around our tents in the moonlight, and made the ruins weird with 

strange sounds and shadows. 

Ba'albak is far more beautiful though much smaller than Palmyra, 

and can be seen without danger-Palmyra cannot. Palmyra 

is more romantic, picturesque, more startling, and there is the 

attraction of being in a desert country. Londoners and Parisians 

would consider Ba'albak in the Desert, but we in Damascus do not. 

I do not know a finer sight then Ba'albak from a distant height, lit 

up by the setting sun. There is one particular pinnacle of rock 

from which you can behold this Holy Place of the old Phcenicians 

in all her beauty. On the other side of the plain rises the Lebanon 

range, its highest point capped with snow. A second ridge below 

is covered with what looks like bushes, in reality they are stunted 

holm oaks. Beneath lies the fertile plain of the Buka'a, the black 

Turkoman tents and camels in the distance, one of which stands, 

as I write, on a mound, like a statue against the clear sky. At my 

feet are the fertile meadows and orchards, the rivulet branching 

and spreading into n net work, and the verdure surrounding the 

magnificent ruins, which from this point present a most perfect 

appearance. A village hangs on t.o the tail of the ruins, not a bad 

village either, but by comparison it looks like a tatter clinging to 

an Empress's velvet and diamond-bespangled train. 

The legend about the big stone which still Iies in the quarry 

and would weigh over 11,000 tons, is to illustrate the strength of 

the race which could usc such materials. A woman who was with 

child was carrying it upon her head towards the temple-you are 

to understand that it was part of her day's work. Suddenly a 

person ran to meet her, and informed her that her brother had

294 PM Inner Life oj Syria. 

been killed. In a passion of grief she threw down the stone, and 

sat upon it to weep; it has remained there ever since, and is called 

the" pregnant stone," 

We left Be'albak at dawn, and rode six hours and a half before 

breakfast, passing Nakhleh Yunin and Ras el Hadeth, to the 

source of the Lebweh (Lybon). It was a dreary ride. My white 

donkey had a habit of running by my side like a dog, 80 I used 

sometimes to catch him, give him a little work, and then turn him 

loose again. He would keep pace, when not ridden, with the 

horses, and he did not detain us much when mounted. The 

source of the Lebweh is a little distance from the village of 

the same name. The water bursts out from the ground and 

divides into a dozen sparkling streams--of all the fountains I 

have ever seen, there is not one 80 like liquid diamonds. I could 

not take my eyes from it, and. it seemed to possess a fascination 

which I can never forget. We espied a big tree about twenty 

minutes away, and walked to its shade, picketted the horses, and 

slept. 

At 4.30, when it was cooler, we rode on to Neby Othman, to 

Ain el Fikeh, and to Er Ras. Part of this country was black and 

desolate, but there were occasional contrasts of green, well-watered 

oases. We passed several people, who, on our asking how far Er 

Ras was, ejaculated, "Happy people to go there!" 80 that we 

looked forward to a paradise. This much vaunted Eden was a 

desolate spot, not made delightful by a furious rising wind, which 

nearly blew down our tents. We rode on to EI Ka'a, letting the 

camp halt at Er Ras; but finding that whatever Er Ras might be 

it was better than EI Ka'a, we went back to our camp. My 

husband's Rahwan was showing signs of distress, and our people 

told us that we must stop there for a whole day. They put their 

fingers up his nostrils, and from each took out a little bit of 

gristle, about as big as a die. They evidently knew what they 

were about, and it was done in a few minutes. Next morning he 

began to take his food, which he had refused for some time past. 

He was on the sick list, and was "led" for a day or two, my husband 

using my second horse, and "Kubbi," the donkey, taking 

hit share of work. We spent part of the next day at Dayr Mar 

MarOn, the sources of the Orontes, and at Hurmul, on a hill rising

Gipsying. 295 

from the plain. We returned to our camp, and mounted the cliff 

at Er Bas-below us lay the small, flat-roofed village, and coils 

of dried litter to sleep upon in summer. There were cattle, but 

no grass, a few trees, gardens, orchards, and water immediately 

around the village. Stretching far away were the plain of the 

Buks'a, Hurmul like a pimple on the face of the plain, the 

Lebanon range opposite bordering the view, and far north, 

although thirty miles distant, Homs was visible to the naked eye. 

We enjoyed the view until we were tired, and then descended to 

the camp. I was in favour of going on to Homs next day, but it 

was deferred for a future expedition. 

We left camp at dawn, and galloped aoross the plain of the 

Buks's, Our road then led up a gentle ascent, a beautiful path 

through woods of stunted holm oak, for over three hours. About 

10 a.m, we met with a gipsy camp, and asked for water, but were 

told that we should meet with none till mid-day. The way became 

very bad, and the descent of the water-shed was extra steep. In 

the hollow, or basin, lire Tyrwhitt-Drake and I, who were a little 

in advance, fancied we saw a hyena advancing stealthily. We 

simultaneously drew our revolvers, but drawing nearer we found it 

was a Bedawin dog, the funniest looking thing imaginable, easily 

to be mistaken for a hyena or a bear. 'Ve reached the water at 

last, Ain Arghush 7147 feet above us, and our poor horses were 

terribly thirsty, as well as ourselves. There was a dispute about 

the road, so "·0 breakfasted at the stream. Resuming our journey 

in the afternoon, we rode two hours down a dried water-course, a 

scatter of stones making very rough work, and along narrow 

ledges with deep drops on each side. Suddenly we wound round 

a comer, and came upon cultivation, and a few cottages on the 

opposite mountain. The Maronite chiefs were Jeriding in the 

hollow, Our camp was pitched in a clump of trees on a height, 

and all was very picturesque. The Chiefs dined with us, and I 

made them a present of some cartridges, which appeared to make 

them very happy. This was Ain Ate, 

The following day we had a hard ascent on the same kind of 

ledges as yesterday, only sometimes not even so easy, and in two 

hours we reached a ridge of mountains, with a small snow plateau. 

This was the narrow summit of a divide, commonly called The


found us some good Lebanon wine. I gave the priest ten shillings 

for a good-sized block of cedar-wood, and some cones, the fonner 

to keep as a treasure, the latter to bum, pound, and mix with oil, 

to rub on the horses' backs when wrung. He took my money, but 

he forgot to give me the wood. 

At last the day came round for us to part-Mr. Tyrwhitt 

Drake and Mr. Palmer en route to England, and for us to return 

homewards. I do not know which of the four felt it the most. 

We, at least, greatly missed their pleasant companionship. We 

resolved to visit the Patriarch, and, escorted by the priest and 

the Shaykh, we travelled over a terrible short-cut and descent 

of three hours. No one could explain why we chose this goatpath; 

we might have passed through Bisherri to Dimsn, the 

summer residence of the Patriarch, a conventual, yet fortresslike 

building on an eminence, commanding a view of his whole 

jurisdiction. 

We were charmed with the reception given to us by His 

Beatitude (Ghabtatuh) the Maronite "Primate of Antioch and of 

all the East," Monseigneur Butrus Bulus Mas'ad, of whom his 

flock says, "Our Patriarch is our Pope and our Sultan," and for 

once we saw the simplicity and sincerity of the apostolic ages. 

Since our visit, I have corresponded with His Beatitude, who is a 

secular author as well as a theologian, and his letters are as 

edifying as his manners are plain and dignified. We were 

received by two Bishops and endless retainers. The Patriarch, 

dressed in purple, sat in a long, narrow room, like a covered 

terrace. We of the faith knelt and kissed hands, and the others 

bowed low. He received all day a train of Priests, Shaykhs, 

Chiefs, and Retainers, some of whom were asked to sit, and others 

were not. He evidently had a different reception for each, according 

to his rank, and everybody knew his own place. He seemed 

delighted with Captain Burton, and at dinner he sat at the head 

of the table with me on his right, and Captain Burton on his 

left. We then went to see the chapel and the monks, and the 

view from the terrace, where we had coffee. He gave me a 

number of little pious presents, amongst others, a bit of the 

true cross, which I still wear. We made acquaintance with his 

chief secretary, L'Aboo Neonat Allah Dahdah, D.D., who was •

We Lose our Way to Oamp. 299 

polyglot, like Captain Burton, and a friend of poor Cardinal 

Wiseman's, which made us fraternize at once. . 

From Dimsn. we resumed. our way through the Jibbah 

B'sherri, "the village land of Bisherri," which lies on the western 

or seaward face of the Lebanon. This is the heart of the 

Maronite region, and like Jezzin, farther south, and Sadad, to 

the north-east, it produces a manly, independent race, fond of 

horses and arms, with whom I am not ashamed to own community 

of faith. 

After we left the Patriarch's we found a dreadful road. Our 

horses had literally to jump from one bit of rock to another; but 

I was told it might have been worse, for we were in the Kasrawan 

country, the worst in Syria. It consists of nothing but d6IniB of 

rocks-fields, valleys, mountains, all of large jagged stones. 

The horses were dead beat long before we had half done our day's 

work, and we had to struggle forward on foot. Night found us 

still scrambling in the dark, worn out with fatigue and heat. 

I felt as if unable to make one more step. At last, about 9 p.m., 

we saw a light, and we hoped it was the camp. We had yet some 

distance to go, and when we reached it we found a wretched 

village of a few huts. It was 80 dark that we could not find our 

way into the shed-like dwellings. We had lost our camp altogether. 

At last, by dint of shouting, some men were brought out 

with a torch and welcomed us in. Tired as I was, I saw the 

horses all groomed, fed, watered, and tethered in a warm spot. 

We were able to eat a water-melon, and were soon sound asleep 

on our saddle-cloths "in the open." 

Our old Dragoman, Hanna Misk, was as hard as a nail He 

ate, drank, and slept when he could, and when he could not he 

was just as contented and never the worse. He and his Rahwan 

used to go any distance with their amble, and never took anything 

out of themselves. Every kindness, luxury, or consideration 

in the camp was always conceded to me, being a woman, 

and I tried to repay it upon the sick or the beasts, first out 

of humanity, and secondly that every man might feel content 

with his "mount." 

The next morning's road was as bad, not for the time or 

the distance, but very little of the Kasrawan goes a long way,


both for man and beast. The scenery, however, was wild and 

beautiful. After a few hours we found our camp pitched in a 

lovely spot, Afks. There arose before us a steep wall of mountain, 

with picturesque rock caves, three waterfalls bounding out of 

them and joining the foaming, rushing river. The spot is called 

M'gharet Af'ka (Cave of the Nahr Ibrahim). It evidently represents 

the "sacred lake and grove" of Venus Aphacitis, which a 

modem writer places in "Coole-Syria, between Biblos and Heliopolis, 

near the summit of lfount Lebanon "-an impossible 

situation. Pagan votaries used to throw into the cave water, 

which suggests the famous fountain of Vaucluse, gifts of gold, 

silver, and bronze; of linen and of "byssus," or fine cloth. The 

yearly festival was suppressed by Constantine. 

Here we ought to have arrived last night, but neither man nor 

beast could have done it in the time. Here we breakfasted, and 

then resumed our second bad day in the Kasrawsn. The horses 

were weak from unnatural action-I mean doing the work of 

goats, springing from ledge to ledge. 'Ve passed Arab black 

tents, and the dogs rushed out to defend their camp, when the 

Sais entrusted to carry my little gun was brutal enough to send 

it's contents into one of them, wounding without killing it. The 

poor beast ran yelping into his master's tent, who took him in his 

arms. It made my blood boil all the evening, and I should have 

been delighted if they had peppered him back. It was one of 

those cowardly acts which Syrians of his class commit. If he had 

been alone he would have been frightened to death of the Arabs, 

but under cover of Consular protection he took advantage to do an 

act of insolent cruelty. Passing other tents later, I stopped and 

bought a fine pup of Kurdish breed, and carried it on the saddle 

to our camp. 

The next morning we rode to the top of Jebel Sunnin (above 

sea-level 8555 feet), one of the three highest points in Syria, and 

we had another six hours of the Kasrawan, which is what the 

Syrians call a "Darb Jehannum" (road of Gehenna). All this 

day I found what is commonly called the Jericho rose, and the 

ground was covered with what appeared small white snail shells. 

It was pleasantly cool, and there was' a little Khan which gave 

the best leben I ever tasted. We were so thirsty that it seemed

ZahleJ". 

301 

&8 if we could never drink enough. I could not help laughing, 

after draining off my third bowl, when the poor woman,in spite of 

Arab courteousness and love of pressing one to eat and drink, was 

obliged to utter a loud "Mashall8,h." 'Ve were still surrounded 

by amphitheatre-shaped mountains, with the points to the sea and 

Sidon. The sunset was splendid, and the air was cool and 

pleasant. We debated whether to camp or to go on, but the place 

was 80 tempting, in ledges of corn-field with a running stream, 

that we ended by remaining, and we were repaid by a charming 

evening. I doctored a poor girl with ophthalmia, and left with 

her remedies and directions. She came to see me afterwards, 

at Bludsn, quite well. 

August 3rd.-We rode quietly down the mountains, and my 

husband made a second ascent to another high point, a continuation 

of Sunnin (6825 feet high), called Jebel el Kunaysah. 

We enjoyed the grand view and the pleasant road, though it was 

&8 steep as a railway bank; and we came to another little Khan, 

where we breakfasted. On the descent we could perceive Zahleh, 

in a hollow, like eggs in a nest. It contains 12,000 or 13,000 

of the fanatical fighting Catholics before mentioned. If the 

Druzes chose to plant guns round the edge of the nest, the poor 

eggs would be very soon smashed; but they fortunately have no 

cannon. The Zahleh men are a fine, brave race, and have always 

kept their independence; their town is the largest Christian settlement 

in Syria. It is pitched upon the two sides of a valley or 

ravine, the river and garden filling up the narrow floor. Being 

on the roots of the Lebanon, it has a good view of the Buks'e 

plain. The Anti-Lebanon, which rises on the opposite side, 

bounds its horizon. Miss Ellen Wilson, the lady I mentioned in 

connection with Miss Fanny James as being a lone, unprotected 

woman with a dangerous mission to perform, asked us to her 

house, and we accepted her hospitality instead of remaining in 

our tents. I wished to put her on a friendly footing with my coreligionists 

and our religious houses, and we went round and 

visited them together. 

Miss Wilson had in her establishment a bright little girl, 

native of the Lebanon, born of Greek Orthodox parents-poor 

but respectable people of the agricultural class. They have a

302 The In1ler Life of Syria. 

large family of six children, for whom the father provides from 

vineyards, fields, or silk-worms. She was then about seventeen, 

the best native type of my own sex I have seen. She was particularly 

interesting to me, for she was then all Syrian nature 

revealed, with its virtues and faults budding. She wore her hair in 

two long, thick, black plaits, confined by a coloured kerchief; she 

had a pretty, round, baby face, with that peculiar flat back to the 

head, and immense length from the eyes to the chin, which some 

painters admire; large black eyes and long lashes, which were the 

beauty of her face, dark brown complexion, small nose, and big 

pouting lips, with two rows of large white teeth, which, until then, 

had never known or wanted a tooth-brush. The Syrian figure is 

not generally remarkable for beauty, like the Egyptian; in fact, 

perfect nature is rather angular. It is never teased by corsets, 

but only a tight-fitting simple cotton dress. The little girl 

accompanied me to the Turkish bath, which was most comfortable; 

the divan was laid out with white cloths for the siesta 

after it, and all the refinements of flowers, incense, lemonade, and 

coffee, and narghilehs were carried out, whilst the marble entrance 

was slightly darkened. There we sat and chatted in 

broken English and Arabic. 

August 4th.-The Kaim-makSm (Governor), with the Kadi and 

his son, dined at Miss Wilson's with us, and some young men 

came up after dinner and recited complimentary verses in Arabie 

of their own composition. The Governor appeared to be well 

fitted for his very difficult post, and the Kadi was brother to our 

old friend, Dr. Meshaka. 

August 5th.-Miss Wilson and I visited the Jesuits, a monastery 

of fifty or sixty fathers-Mr. Palgrave's old quarters. We 

then went to see Noah's tomb at Mu'allakah. It was in a room 

of 104 feet 10 inches long, 10 feet 2 inches broad, and 8 feet 

3 inches high. The tomb itself was the same length as the room. 

If all were of those dimensions, I wonder how big the ark was? 

On our return we took the girls down to dine in our camp; that 

night poor Miss Wilson was taken ill with a fever, which, it 

appeared, had been through the school. 

August 6th.-I went to the sacraments at the Maronite Chapel 

We took coffee at the priest's house afterwards, and we then


one o'clock a.m, in a bright moonlight across the plain. Then 

we passed rugged defiles, where once or twice the horses missed 

their footing, and struok fire out of the rocks in their struggles to 

hold up. At two in the moming I felt that I was going to drop 

out of my saddle, and cried for quarter. The tents were hastily 

half pitched, and we lay down on the rugs till daylight, when we 

started again, and reached Bludsn before the sun was hot. 

I felt 80 very happy to get home that I thought I was cured, 

but the next day parched skin, burning eye-balls, bursting head, 

dried tongue, throat, and chest, warned me back to bed, when a 

constant succession of fainting fits and a horror of food, lasted me 

three weeks. I would not take quinine, preferring to trust to my 

own good constitution. I believe that those strong remedies are 

the principal causes why many women come out of the tropics 

mere wrecks. I used to hear the incessant clatter of hoofs, and 

constant arrivals of people condoling with Captain Burton upon 

my death. I gathered that when I was carried out of Zahleh in 

the litter I lay 80 still that everybody thought my corpse was 

being carried home to be buried. The news had spread far and 

wide, and I had all the pleasure of hearing my own praises and 

lamentations.

( 305 ) 

CHAPTER XX. 

DISAGBEEABLES IN DAMASCUS-MY PATIENT8-CONSCBIPTION 

VILLAGE SQUABBLES-MOUNTAIN LIFE AGAIN-VINEYARD 

HARVEST-MOSLEMS AND CHRISTIANS. 

ABOUT this time the Bayt et Tell, one of the two Houses of 

Zebedani Shaykhs, came up to take refuge with us. They had 

been somewhat harshly made responsible for a defaulter, and, 

through enemies blowing up their coals, the Government had 

allowed soldiers to fetch them to the Diwan, which means to 

prison, till their case could be tried. The weather was fearfully 

hot. The confinement, and expense of getting food, would have 

been terrible. Rashid Pasha was absent at Jerusalem, and left 

Holo Pasha, acting Governor-General. A friendly note to hun 

obtained the favour of the Bayt et Tell remaining at large, on 

our being responsible for their appearance when needful. 

Upon the 26th of August, Captain Burton received at night, 

by a mounted messenger, the two following letters from Mr. 

Wright, Chief Missionaryat Damascus (No.2), and from Mr. Nasff 

Meshake, Chief Dragoman of the' British Consulate (No.1). I 

give them as they were written:- 

No.1. 

DEAR SIR, 

The Christians in Damascus are in great alarm ; most of them have left 

for Saidnayah, and others are about to leave elsewhere. Their alarm was 

occasioned from the following facts :-signs of crosses were made in the 

streets in the same way which preceded the massacre of 1860. On the 

23rd instant a certain Mohammed Rashid, a Government Inspector 

(Teftish), being in disguise, caught a young Jew, twelve years old, in the 

service of Solomon Donemberg, a British protected subject, making signa 

X


of crosses in a cabinet of a mosque at Suk el Jed1d. Yesterday another 

young Jew, in the service of Marco, a French Jew, was caught also. 

Both of these two boys were taken to the Government; being under age, 

they were at once released by order of Mejlis Tamiz Huktik. It is 

believed that the Moslems are the authors of these signs, either directly or 

indirectly, to stop the Government from taking the Redif (militia), which 

is managed in a very oppressive manner, that is, leaving many families 

without males to support them. Such kinds of Redif prefer rather to be 

hanged than seeing their harims without support or anyone to maintain 

them in their absence. A certain Nicolas Ghartous, a Protestant from 

Am Sham, reported to me yesterday that while waiting on Mr. Anhouri, 

near the barracks of the Christian quarter, being dressed like a Dnue, 

three soldiers of the same barracks came to him and said, " Yakik e1 'ijl," 

a technical term used by the Druzes meaning, "Are you ready for another 

outbreak 1" Ghartous replied, "We are at your disposal." The soldiers replied, 

"Prepare yourself, and we will reap our enemies from here to the Bab 

Sharki" (the Christian quarter), and thus they departed. Hatem Ghanem, 

a Catholic member in the Haursn, came here to recover some money due 

. to him by Atta Zello of the Meyd&n Aghas. While claiming the money 

he was beaten, and his religion and Cross were cursed by his debtor, who 

was put in prison at the request of the Catholic Patriarchate. Twenty to 

thirty Redifs of the Meydan ran away to the Leja'a, to take refuge there. 

The Redifs will be collected next Saturday, the 27th instant, some say at 

the Castle of Damascus, others at Khabboon and Mezzeh. The report is 

current that on that day there will be no work in town, and that there 

will be an outbreak. Although Ibrahim Pasha, the new Governor, arrived 

on the 22nd instant, he will not undertake his duties till the return of 

the Wali. The Government, as well 88 some Frenchmen, through M. 

Roustan, who is now at Jerusalem, intend to propose to the Wall to leave 

Holo Pasha to continue occupying his present function under the preeent 

circumstances. The Mushir left on the 19th instant. The Wall is absent. 

The Muffetish, whom you know his inefficiency, is the Acting Governor 

General. Consuls are absent (that is the French and English). The 

presence of the high Functionaries, and especially the Consuls, is a great 

comfort to the Christians in general. 

No.2. 

My DEAR SIR, 

I have just got in from Rasheiya, and before I sat down several 

Christiana and one Moslem came in to ask if I knew what was comiDg. 

They seemed to be very much afraid; but, except that people don't act

DiBagreeables in DallUJ,lJC1J,B. 307 

logically, I see no reason for fear. The fear, however, does seem verygreat. 

I know nothing. Any English of us here should be ready at the worst 

to fight our corner. Many thanks for your prompt action- in our- affairs. 

I t is something to have 

U One firm, strong man in a blatant land, 

Who can act and who dare not lie." 

It appeared that one of those eruptions of ill feeling which 

are periodical and epidemic in Damascus, resulting from so many 

religions, tongues, and races, was about to simmer into full boil. 

The chief hatred is between the Moslems and Christians; the 

rest are fond of stirring up both, for they reap all the benefit. 

It appeared that a slaughter-day was expected on the 27th of 

August-all the chief authorities, by an accidental combination 

of affairs, were absent, as well as the Consuls, and therefore there 

would be nobody to interfere, and nobody to be made responsible. 

This was the night of the 26th. Captain Burton and I in ten 

minutes made all our plans and arrangements, then saddled the 

horses and cleaned the weapons. We had never before been in a 

Damascus riot, but we supposed it would be like the famous affair 

of 1860. He would not take me into Damascus, because, as he 

said, he intended to protect Damascus, and he wanted me to protect 

Bludan and Zebedani. The feeling that I had something to 

do took awayall my fever,and though I wasbefore crawling about, 

I was now as upright and strong as a palm tree. In the night I 

accompanied him down the mountain. He took half the men, 

and left me half. When we got into the plain we shook hands 

like two brothers and parted. Tears or any display of affection 

would have cost us our reputation. 

He rode in four and a half hours to Damascus, put up his 

horse, and got to business. When he stated what he had heard, 

the local authorities showed extreme surprise. He was on the 

best of terms with them .all, and therefore said laughingly, "Now, 

gentlemen, which of you is to be hanged if this thing is not 

prevented? Mind, it will cost you Syria, and unless measures are 

taken at once, I must telegraph to Constant-inople." This had the 

desired effect. "What," they asked, " would you have U8 to do?" 

He said, "I would have you post a guard of soldiers in every 

street, order a patrol all night, and I will go the rounds with

308 The Inner Life of Syna. 

Holo Pasha. Let the soldiers be harangued in the barracks, and 

told that on the slightest sign of mutiny the offenders will be 

sent to the Danube (their Cayenne). Issue an order that no Jew 

or Christian shall leave the house until all is quiet." All these 

measures were taken by eight o'clock a.m., and continued for 

three days; not a drop of blood was shed, and the flocks of 

frightened Christians who had fled to the mountains began to 

come back. There is no doubt but that my husband saved 

Damascus from a very unpleasant episode. Messrs. Wright and 

Scott, the Dragomans, and a few staunch souls who remained 

quietly with him, appreciated his conduct, and he received -many 

thanks from those on the spot. But the feeling between Beyrout 

and Damascus is, as I have said, curious. Nearly all the Christians 

and Europeans had tried to leave, and the diligence was 80 much in 

request that a friend of mine could not get a seat for three weeks. 

Yet these people, as soon as they sighted the Mediterranean, 

blatantly vociferated, "Oh, we were not at all frightened! There 

was no danger whatever." One gentleman, who had lived for 

seven years safely on the coast, and who had then never ventured 

up to Damascus in his life, wrote me a pleasantly chaffing letter, 

"hoping I had recovered my fever and fright," and giving Captain 

Burton and myself instructions how to behave with coolness 

in times of danger. I need not say that. he was a civilian whose 

dislike to the "smell of powder" is notorious. 

After I had parted with my husband I climbed back to my 

eyrie, which commanded the country, and as long as the ammunition 

lasted we could defend ourselves, unless overpowered by 

numbers. Of course, as it was my first year in Damascus, I had 

not the slightest idea what was going to happen, except by the 

horrible accounts my friends gave me of the massacre of 1860. 

But flying and excited stragglers dropped in every lew hours, and 

from what they said you would have supposed, at least, that 

Damascus was deluged in blood, and therefore expected that it 

would spread allover the country like a fire, and that eventually 

crowds of l\Ioslems would surge up to exterminate us. I often 

laugh at all my preparations; but yet, even now, knowing Syria 

as well as I do, if I were living in any part of it, except at the 

Beyrout side of the Lebanon, which is always safe, if I were told

Disagreeables ill, Damaseue. :309 

that I was going to be attacked I should do exactly the same, and 

be glad to find that it was a false alarm. Twenty times you are 

threatened and it is a case of " wolf;It the twenty-first time you do 

not believe it, you are not ready, and are killed. Firstly, I collected 

every available weapon, and all the ammunition. I had 

five men in the house: to each ono I gave a gun, a revolver, and 

a bowie knife. I put one on the roof with a pair of elephant guns, 

carrying four ounce balls, and a DIan to each of the four sides of 

the house, taking the terrace myself. I planted the Union Jack 

on the flag-staff at the house top. I turned my bull terriers into 

the garden to give notice of any approach. I locked up my little 

Syrian girl, who was naturally frightened, being a Christian and 

very young, in the safest room. My English maid, who was as 

brave as any man, was to supply us with provisions, attend to our 

wants, and be generally useful, When everything was done, I 

consulted with our old .l\.fghan Kawwass, Mohammed Agha, and he 

agreed with me that if they surged up in hundreds against our 

house we could not kecp them off long with our small arms, 80 we 

filled all the empty soda-water bottles full of gunpowder, and laid 

fusees ready to stick in and light, to fling them in amongst the 

crowd. I then rode down to the American mission, and begged 

them to come up and shelter with me; and then into the village 

of Bludan to tell tho Christians to come up to me on the slightest 

sign of danger; and, lastly, to Zebedani, whosepopulation is nearly 

all ![oslem. I gave the same offer of shelter and protection to the 

handful of Christians of both churches here, in the event of any 

sign of trouble. I rode on to the Shaykhs' and asked them how 

things would be if the news proved true, and the l\Ioslems were to 

rise in our part of the country. They told me that there would be 

a fight. "Our half of the village will fight with you and yours," 

they said; "tho other half will destroy the Christians here and at 

Bludsn. It would be doubtful if they attack your house; but if 

matters are 80 bad as that, they shall pass over our dead bodies, 

and those of all our House, before they reach you." A brave 

speech, and kindly meant, but if anything had happened I should 

have been to the fore. Every night the chief Shaykh and his 

brothers came IIp ana picketed in the garden, but I would not 

for the world have let them think that .I wanted their protection


against their co-religionists, and I only allowed it on the ground 

that they were permitted by the authorities to go free on my 

husband's responsibility. However, we waited and watched, we 

watched and waited, but no one came, except more flying stragglers 

with exaggerated news. I was never destined to do anything 

worthy of my ancestor, Lady Blanche Arundell, who 

defended Wardour Castle, for one midnight a mounted messenger 

rode in with a letter from my husband, saying that all was well, 

but that he would not be home for a week. During the three 

days we were in suspense a very large vulture kept perpetually 

hovering over our house and sitting on the tops of the trees. The 

people said it was a bad omen, and I fetched my little gun, 

though I rather begrudged the cartridge just then, and when it 

was out of what they call reach, I had the good luck to bring it 

down. This gave them great comfort, and a boy climbed the 

tallest tree and hung the dead bird to it. 

The following days were passed in small rides about the 

mountains, sometimes a long pic-nic in the mountains with my 

usual train, learning Arabic under shady trees by bubbling 

streams, or sitting in the vineyards eating grapes with the peasants. 

These villagers seldom kill sheep during winter, 80 they 

begin early to provide for cold weather. A flock is driven in by 

the Kurd shepherds, and those who want to buy choose one or 

two, the brown being considered the best. Each marks the sheep 

of his choice. If he has the means, the buyer fattens the sheep 

himself, but if he has not, the shepherd fattens it, and when it is 

killed they divide it. To fatten the wether, they tie it up in an 

outhouse, and it must not be frightened or startled, and feed it 

on fine grass and vine leaves for ten weeks. The first month it 

does not put on much flesh; the last month they force it to eat, 

and girls sit all day stuffing it with mulberry leaves, and giving it 

salt, onions, flour or bran; they also bathe it twice a day. The 

Syrian sheep have a different tail from ours, more like a large 

flap of meat. An Eastern, when he sees English mutton without 

tails, thinks '\·0 have cut them off to eat. This appendage weighs 

7 Ratls (about 35Ibs.), and the body about 28 Ratls (or 1751bs.) 

altogether. When the sheep is cut up for use, they melt the 

tail like butter, and the proceed looks like white lard. They chop

My Patients. 311 

it very fine with two knives, like mince, and put it and all the 

fat in a big saucepan to dissolve. They cut the lean in slices, 

and hang the meat on ropes. It must all be done by "a pure 

man living on grapes," whatever that may mean. He must also 

neither smoke nor drink; he adds pepper and salt to the butter, 

boils it till clarified, and lets it cool. He prepares earthenware 

jars, with large mouths-boiled first in ashes, water, and fig 

leaves to cleanse them. He pours in the grease cool, till threequarters 

full, the third part is filled with pepper to keep oir 

animals, and covered with leaves. They then lute it with clay 

till it is wanted-this in winter is used instead of butter and meat, 

and they eat it in alternate layers of dried meat and fat, cooked 

together.· The first cost of the sheep is 180 or 200 piastres 

(100 piastres is 16 shillings), and, with economy, one wether 80 

prepared will last a large family three months, though I think 

it is rather a case of" bread and point." 

We went through the grape cure for a fortnight, i.e; eating 

nothing but bread and grapes. I saw my patients as usual for 

two hours a day. People say that it is a very risky thing for 

amateurs to practise medicine; but I found that with some 

natural instinct about medicine, and a few good books, by dint 

of daily experience, by never using any but the simplest remedies, 

and not those unless I was quite sure of the nature of 

the illness, that I managed to do a great deal of good. I found 

that native doctors killed numbers, whereas I not only did not 

kill but cured. When -a case was too complicated for me, I used 

to put the invalid on a mule, and send him down with a man to 

Beyrout, fifteen hours away. Our garden presented the strangest 

scene in the afternoon-fever patients making wry faces over 

quinine wine, squalling babies guggling oil, paralytic and rheumatic 

Bedawin being shampooed, and gouty old women having 

joints painted with iodine. One day I was late, and a Syrian girl, 

who had watched me like a monkey, and thought she knew all 

about it, ventured to administer doses to an old womanand a child; 

it resulted that the child drank the eye-wash, and the old woman 

rubbed her eyes with the oil of the male-fern, but I never heard 

• My husband tells me that this is the well-known "kanrmeh," which, as 

travelling food, ranks with the North American" pemmican."


that they were much injured. They used to come to me for the 

most curious things. Perhaps one would point at his head. "Do 

speak, 0 thou silent one, I am not inspired." He might answer, 

"In the morning my heart goes round like that, and in the 

evening it goes round like that," making a circle with his hand 

like a wheel in different directions. They always speak of the 

heart instead of the stomach or the chest. "Kalbi bi-yuja'a," 

(" My heart hurts me It) is the commonest complaint. Whoover 

wants to be charitable here must keep a chemist's shop in the 

house, well stocked with English drugs, packed in tins to prevent 

the sea and climate affecting them; and whoever wishes to succeed, 

must multiply an English dose by four. My husband often, 

when he saw me unhesitatingly give a large dose, used to. exclaim 

in an agony, "I know you will kill somebody." However, these 

are the only cases who slipped through my fingers. 

A fine, strong young mountaineer, who had breakfasted on two 

Ratls (4 or 5 lbs.) of unripe mishmush (apricots) at the mountain 

spring, and immediately showed cholera symptoms, was ill for 

seven hours when they sent for me. I found him clinging to the 

beams of the shanty, and literally shaking its walls, crying, "For 

the love of Allah, save me, save me l " But it was too late; all 

my efforts were unavailing, and he expired at the end of an hour. 

The second was a small boy of two years old. His father, 8, 

Jew, begged me for some medicine, and carried it home; but he 

yielded to his fanatical neighbours, and conceived a prejudice to 

a Christian tumbler and Christian drugs. I said to him, " Your 

boy will die if he does not drink that;" but, religion getting the 

better of him, he dashed the tumbler and contents to the ground 

rather than defile his child. The boy did die at the hour I said, 

and the poor father has never forgiven himself. He was an 

only SOD, and that, to an Oriental Jew, was much like Isaac to 

Abraham. 

The third was a poor youth who showed symptoms of cholera. 

I was not sent for till he was almost blue-black, and he expired 

before I raised the cup to his lips. 

I received, however, a very equivocal compliment one day, A. 

poor woman came to me to beg for medicines, and described her 

symptoms; the doctor was with me, but she did not know him.

My Patients. 313 

He said in French, "Don't give her anything but a little effervescing 

magnesia. I won't have anything to do with her; it is 

too late, and it risks reputation." I did as he bade me, simply not 

to seem unkind. At twelve next day I sent to inquire after her; 

she was not better nor worse, but at four p.m. I was told she was 

dead and buried. . 

Soon afterwards a young man, about twenty, came to me, and 

said, "Ya Sitti! will you give me some of that nice white bubbling 

powder for my grandmother, that you gave to Umm Saba the day 

before yesterday. She is so old, and has been in her bed these 

three months, and will neither live nor die." 

"Oh, thou wicked youth," I answered; "begone from my house. 

I did but give Umm Saba a powder to calm her sickness, but it 

was too late to save her, and it was the will of Allah that she 

should die." 

Once a girl sent for me to a village, saying she had broken 

her leg. I had a litter constructed, hired men, and went down, 

meaning to send her to Beyrout. When I came near the place 

I met her walking. "How can you be walking with a broken 

leg? " 'Vith many tears she showed me a scratch on her knee 

that an English baby would not have cried for. 

Some would come and ask me for a medicine to make them 

young again. Others had spots on their faces, others a sun-burnt 

patch. Several women wanted me to make them like Sarah of 

old. I gently reminded them of their ages, and that I thought 

no medicines or baths or doctors could avail. 

"My age?" one screamed; "why, what age do you take me 

to be?" 

"Well," I replied with politeness, "perhaps you might be 

sixty." (She might have been seventy-five.) 

"I am only twenty-five," she said, in a very hurt tone of voice. 

"Well, then, I must congratulate you on your early marriage, 

for your youngest daughter is seventeen, and she is working in 

my house." 

When a child is born to a house, the mother keeps her 

bed, drinking strong pepper-water, eating chicken diet, and not 

washing her hands or face for forty days. The child goes 

through many wonderful operations, which are supposed to


make it strong and healthy, and the skin inpervious to chafes. 

Firstly, the nurse puts her finger down its throat to clear the 

passage, cracks all its joints, and moves all its limbs about in a 

gymnastic fashion; then she swaddles it. She boils sea-salt till it 

is very strong brine, and lets it cool. On the second day she 

washes the baby in this liquor, and when dry she mixes oil and 

Rihon (basil), and glues every joint, with the idea that it will never 

be sore afterwards, and powders it with basil. She then kohls ita 

eyes. These operations are in full vigour for eight days, and even 

for a month. 

On the 3rd September the Russian Consul, M. Ionin, the 

pleasant colleague who went to Tudmur with us, came to pay us 

a visit. It was at this time that Holo Pasha sent me the leopard 

so often mentioned, as a mark of his esteem and appreciation of 

my husband's efforts in helping him to quiet Damascus. The 

people called him Abu Faris (father of the horseman), because 

this animal, like the Indian cheetah, is used for hunting deer, and 

is usually carried on the rider's crupper. He grew in size and 

beauty, and became my dearest pet. He had bold, bad black eyes, 

that seemed to say, "Be afraid of me." He soon learned to know 

he was not to worry any of the household, but he delighted in 

fighting all my animals, particularly my Persian cat. There was 

an armed peace between him and the bull-terriers. He used to 

sleep on my bed, and on one occasion an English stranger, not 

knowing the house, walked into my room at siesta time, and 

found me asleep, with the leopard curled up on my feet. He ran 

off in a fright to my husband, to beg him to come quickly with 

his gun. 

The" Nimr " used to hunt me round the garden, playing hide 

and seek in the trees. I always got the worst of it, but when he 

bit too hard I used to box his ears, which kept him quiet. 

His end was that he worried the same baker who was once 

before bitten by the terriers, and who must have had something 

uncanny about him that brutes saw and humans did not. I shall 

always remain under the impression that Abu Faris was poisoned 

out of fear by the villagers, When in the height of his beauty, 

he was playing one day in the garden; a Shaykh was paying me a 

visit under the lemon trees, and admired him much, and said, "I


boiling with rage, and saluting me said, " If he does not get up in 

two minutes, Sitti, I shall give him the kurbash (cow-hide whip)." 

" Not so," I replied; "but wait till his superior officer comes in." 

Presently a rustle was heard, and all put themselves in respectful 

attitudes to receive Said Beg. My little Syrian girl said to 

me, in an agitated tone, showing the attitude of the Christian 

before the Moslem, "Rise, Sitti, to receive the Beg!" " I rise" 

(said aloud, and somewhat pompously) "only for the Sultan." 

Presently Said Beg appeared, came straight over to me, kissed 

my hand with all the courtesy of a French gentleman, and, asking 

leave to sit by me, conversed with me for some time. This comforted 

the Kawwass, who thought I had been grossly insulted by 

the sub.; he came forward and saluted the Mir Alai, and told 

him how I had been received. The little man was ordered out of 

the room at once. I conclude he misbehaved elsewhere, as shortly 

afterwards Said Beg refused to employ him. I invited the Beg 

and all his suite to breakfast with my husband and myself. 

This was accepted, and I told him my trouble about. Bludan, 

" Only twenty-five men," he remarked, gaily; "well, it would be 

a shame to touch them-and then they are your proteges; when 

I pass your village I will turn a blind eye to it." And 80 he 

did. 

I did not then know what I learned afterwards, that Bludsn 

being a Greek village, Said Beg could not have taken recruits 

from it. This is a fair sample of how Syrians like to keep you 

constantly at work using your influence in their behalf, usefully or 

uselessly, to bring themselves into notice. Said Beg's courtesy was 

not less pleasing on this account. He knew I was deceived, and 

under either aspect he would have behaved like a gentleman. 

About this time, Miss Wilson sent to fetch away her Syrian 

girl; but an hour after we left Zahleh she had told me that she 

never meant to go back there. I assured her that it was against 

all rule for an English lady to go to the house of another and 

tamper with her dependants, and that it would put me in a very 

awkward position. She replied that she was determined to remain 

with me, or go home to her father. I explained the affair to Miss 

Wilson, who was naturally hurt, she having been like a second 

mother to the little girl; and I greatly admired the temper and

Village Squabbles. 317 

resignation with which Miss Wilson met her disappointment. So 

she became part of my establishment. I have discharged my . 

duties, in every detail, to the best of my power and with sincere 

affection for four years. I little knew when I undertook it 

what an awful responsibility it was to take an Eastern girl-another 

man's child-from under her father's roof and protection, away 

from her own land and the laws she has been accustomed to, to 

bring her to England, and a life in Continental towns. My attempt 

at benevolence is, I believe, rewarded by a faithful affection. It 

has taught me what the emancipation of the Syrian woman means, 

and what results it would bring to the world. If I am the means 

of her making a happy marriage, and I live to see her doing good 

in her own land to her own people, my object will be attained, 

and I shall be well repaid for my labours and anxieties. 

September 13th.-Rain fell, and we were so unused to it, that 

when the animals in the garden felt it they began to gallop as if 

mad with fright. A day of ill-luck. 'Ve expected a muleteer 

with a load of provisions, some bottles of porter, found with great 

difficulty at Beyrout, and some fruit, eggs, and wine. He did 

arrive, but alone. He told us that his mule had dropped down 

dead, and all the things had been lost. It seemed 80 improbable 

that we detained him, and sent a Kawwass on horseback to the spot 

described; and true enough the mule was dead upon the road, the 

bottles of porter and wine were broken, and the eggs and fruit 

were all a pulp. He was too unfortunate to punish, 80 we had to 

bear this gift of the" unlucky thirteenth" as best we could, and 

help him to buy another mule. 

Although it may be said that everything was quiet, still 

there was a lurking ill-feeling between Moslems and Christians 

ever ready to boil over. I made a point, since the 27th of August, 

of always riding down to Mass at Zebedani with a large train, as 

our presence encouraged the Christians, and gave them a little 

security. The Moslems were particularly respectful; they always 

rose up to salute in passing, and the Shaykhs even asked to accompany 

me to Mass. When they entered a murmur arose amongst 

the Christians - such a foolish proceeding on the part of fifty 

miserable dependants, among 80 many thousands. I said to my 

co-religionists," The Shaykhs pay us a great compliment by wish-

Village Squabb1a. 319 

" Yas ;' I do." 

" How many cows had you?" 

" So many." 

" What are they worth? " 

" So much." 

" What are your means of living? " 

"So many cows, so many orchards, so many vineyards." 

" How many cows were in this poor man's orchard? " 

" So many." 

" And the damage done is so much ? " 

To the Christian: "Is all this true?" 

" Quite true, Sitti." 

To the Moslem: "Well, then, you must give 80 many cows 

to this poor man, the equivalent of what you have deprived him 

of." 

It was done, and they both went away content. 

Witne88as are sometimes necessary, but, as they can be bought 

for twenty piastres, or less, it is much better to make both enemies 

agree, if you can, upon the truth of each other's statements. . 

One day a Moslem woman and a Christian man fell out about 

a chicken. The man tore off the woman's ear, stole her gold 

ornaments, and beat her black and blue. They both arrived 

covered with blood-she, also, had managed to injure his features 

with a stone whilst she was being beaten. They accused each 

other 80 violently that at first I could not understand them; but 

88 they asked me to settle their quarrel, and promised to abide by 

whatever punishment I chose, after hearing all sides, and the 

swarms of witnesses who crowded up out of the village, the man 

proved to be evidently in fault. It was 80 cowardly, and such 

provocation from a Christian to a Moslem woman at such an 

awkward moment. I asked the Shaykh of the village, who has 

the power of punishing, to give the offender a week's prison, 

but to see that he was fed at my expense. And he went to 

prison willingly, because he had consented to abide by my 

decision. When he came out he had to apologize to the woman, 

to restore her ornaments, and to give her some money, which I 

supplied for the purpose. They were the most quarrelsome people, 

up in that peaceful looking village, I ever saw,and sometimes our

MO'Untain Life Again. 321 

a squad, like soldiers. They plant the right foot in time to tomtom 

music, with a heavy tread and exclamation like that used by 

our street menders when the crowbar comes down with a thud 

upon the stones: when they are numerous it sounds like the 

advance of an army. At last they burst out into song, which 

is impromptu, and varies every time, but I give a literal translation 

of that sung to-day. 

" Mashall&h! MasluW&h! At last we have seen a man! 

Behold our Consul in our Shaykh ! 

Who dare to say' good-morning' us (save Allah) when he roles' 

Look at him, look at the Sitt ! 

They ride the Arab horses ! 

They fly before the wind ! 

They fire the big guns ! 

They fight with the sword! 

Let us follow them all over the earth !" 

(Ohorus.) "Let us follow, let us follow," etc., etc. 

September 29th (Michaelmas Day).-We had no goose nor any 

meat, except a hedgehog which the dogs caught and killed. The 

Arabs roll it round in the mud, dig a hole, put hot braise into it, 

and bake it; the mud and the prickly skin come off, and the 

flesh is as tender as a young partridge's. In England it is gipsy 

food, and I can only say that the Rommany knows what is good. 

The flesh, however, like porcupine, is somewhat dry, and requires 

basting with butter or mutton fat. 

September 30eh.-Our cook fell ill. One of the dogs had 

snapped at his finger, and his hand and arm swelled up to " 

fearful size. He would not see any but an Arab doctor. I sent 

for the best quack and a priest, and sat up night after night 

trying to keep down fever. The case was beyond my skill, and 

he became worse and worse. I implored him to let me send him 

in a litter to Beyrout, but he would not hear of it. 

It is now the vineyard harvest, the prettiest possible sight; 

it is so pleasant to sit amongst the vines, to eat grapes, and to 

talk to the people. When I think of the difficulty of the poor 

little bunch of grapes in England, and I look upon these baskets 

the size of a bath, dropping over with large, luscious ripe fruit, 

each berry 88 big as a damson, both purple and white, with a 

y


crisp taste, and the bloom on, I long to send a balloon full to 

you in England. The people give me a basket constantly. 

Here the vines are pegged down to the ground, and cover 

large tracts. The .owner or his family live with them night and 

day, and make loud noises to keep off wild beasts. This is 

done by striking a kind of jar, with a bit of parchment or skin 

drawn tight over it, like a drum. 

Whilst the ill-feeling was simmering between Christians 

and Moslems, I rode down as usual to Zebedani to hear 1\1ass, 

attended only by one servant, Habib el Jemayl, a strong, brave 

boy of twenty, a Maronite of the Lebanon, who was devoted to his 

master and to me. I should not have feared to go alone, because, 

from my husband's position and his influence in the country, anybody 

knowing that I belonged to him would have been afraid to 

molest me, even had they wished. Moreover, I had acquired the 

love and respect of the people, by my daily devotion to their 

necessities. My chief difficulty was to pass through the crowd 

that came to kiss my hand, or even my habit. This is a boastful 

saying, and would I were not bound to say it, but it must be, 

because my husband's official enemies misreported the facts home, 

and it has gone forth to the world that I flogged and shot the 

people. Many men despise a contemptible foe, but he was a wise 

man who said, "If you knew the value of an enemy, you would 

buy him up with gold." I have now an opportunity of stating 

what did occur, to lay bare the cocoon from which some person 

has spun for me a mantle full of thorns. If I am over sensitive, 

pity me, for it hurts nobody but myself. 

Zebedani, I have said, is divided between two houses, who, 

after a small fashion, may be called the local Capulets and 

Montagues-the Bayt et Tell, the good and friendly Shaykhs, and 

the Bayt el Z., a rich and lawless house. Between these two 

exists a blood-feud. You do not realize in England what that 

means. There is a quarrel between two families in which blood 

is drawn: after that it is a point of honour that one should watch 

the other in order to kill one every time they go out, on the 

principle of retribution, like "having the last word." This is 

called "Thar," and it not only involves families, but sometimes 

villages and tribes. The blood-feud, renewed after long intervals,

The TJuJr, or Blood-feud. 323 

and on all great occasions, may last for centuries. It is sanctioned 

by the Koran: "O! true believers, the law of retaliation is 

ordained to you for the slain: the free shall die for the free." 

The Amb regards this revenge as his most sacred right and duty. 

His saying is, " Were hell fire to be my lot I would not relinquish 

the Thar." As the Bayt el Z. was a turbulent family, who 

killed the mules, destroyed the vineyards, worried the poor, and 

were the general bullies of the country, they were very troublesome 

to the Government, and it has been an old custom for the 

British Consulate to be friendly with the Tell Shaykhs. 

One day I sent Habib on an errand by another way, and rode 

alone through the village. As usual, every one rose up and 

saluted me, and I was joined by several native Christians. Suddenly 

Hasan, one of the Z.'s, a young man of about twenty-two, 

put himself before my horse and said, "What fools you Fellahin 

are to salute this Christian woman; I will show you how to treat 

her." This was an insult. I reined in my horse; the natives 

dropped on their knees begging of him to be appeased, and 

kissing my hands, which meant, "For Allah's sake bear it 

patiently, we are not strong enough to fight for you. We are 

afraid of him, and yet we like you so much we don't want you to 

be insulted." 

By this time a crowd had collected. "What is the meaning 

of this? ". I asked. " It means," he replied, "that I want to raise 

the devil to-day, and I will pull you off your horse and duck 

you in the water. I am a Beg and you are a Beg. Salute me." 

You in England cannot comprehend the extent of the insult 

when an Eastern says this much to an Englishwoman. Fortunately 

Habib had heard some noise, galloped up as fast as he could, and 

seeing how I was engaged, thought I was attacked, and flew to 

the rescue. Six men flung themselves upon him, and during the 

struggle his pistol, or rather blunderbuss, went oft', and an ounce 

ball whizzed past our heads to lodge in a plaster wall. It might 

have shot me as well as Hasan. The natives all threw themselves 

on the ground, as they often do when there is shooting. 

The brother of Hasan, a steady fellow, dragged him away. I rode 

on amid the curses of the Z. family upon Habib and myself. 

" We will follow you," they said, "with sticks and stones and


guns, and to-night we will come in a party to bum your house, 

and whenever we meet an English son of a pig we will kill him." 

"I thank you for your warning," I said; "and you may be quite 

sure I shall not forget you." I went home, and waited till night 

to see if any apology would be offered, but none came. But the 

Shaykhs came up, and the priest, and a Christian employe who 

was collecting the Ushr (the tenth), and nearly all the Christians 

with one appeal said, "If you do not notice this, God help us; we 

must leave our homes-we are too few, and dare not stay there." 

Having waited a reasonable time, I wrote an account of the 

affair to Damascus. The Wall, who at that time was not ill-disposed 

towards my husband, behaved like a gentleman. Next day, 

when it was too late-I suppose they had wind of my last step 

Saleh Z., the father of the youth Hasan, accompanied by the 

Emir Harfush and by fifty of the principal people, came up to 

beg my pardon. I treated them with the honours due to their 

several ranks; but I stood, and kept the others standing, and 

offered no pipes nor coffee. I observed that the young culprit and 

some of his male relatives were far from being sorry, but that his 

father and brother, well-disposed men, had forced him and others 

to come and apologize. I therefore coldly replied that had they 

come yesterday the insult might have been atoned for, but that now 

the affair was in the hands of others, and must take its course. 

I then dismissed them, but invited the Emir Harfiish to 

remain with me, which he did, and discussed the matter over 

coffee the best part of the afternoon. 

At night arrived at Zebedani a company of soldiers and two 

officials-Hanna Shalhiip of the Diwan, and Isma'il Beg, Chief of 

Police; all quartered themselves on the Z.'s, already a punishment. 

I knew nothing of it in Bludan till the morning, when our 

old Afghan Kawwass told me that they had arrived with orders 

from the Wali to bum and sack the house. I was in my saddle 

in five minutes, and accompanied by all the men servants and 

the people of Bludan, hastened down to Zebedani. Before I 

reached the town I found the soldiers drawn up in a line to 

salute me. The two officials were more than kind and courteous. 

Every soul in Zebedani turned out on foot or on horseback to 

greet me, and all the surrounding villagers who had heard the

Village Emeute. 825 

news flocked in. I asked Mohammed, the Kawwass, the object 

of this grand ovation. "That is for you, Sitti, because everybody 

is so pleased with you, and because everybody is glad at 

the discomfiture of the Z.'s." 

We went to the Shaykhs' house, where I remained with 

Hanna Shalhiip and Ismai'l Beg. I told them exactly what had 

occurred, and I expressed great regret that the pistol had gone oft' 

in the scuffle, as there had been no intention of using firearms. 

Isma'il Beg replied, "I only wish you had shot him; you would 

have rid the country of a bully, and the Government of great 

anxiety." Then I said to him, "Our Kawwass has told me that 

you have come to burn and sack the house. You surely will not 

do so; I could never get over such a thing. The Wali has, I am 

sure, sent you only to teach the people that his friends-and 

strangers too---are not to be insulted with impunity. I had an 

apology yesterday, and am quite satisfied, but in order to calm 

the fears of these Christians, and that the Z.'s may not boast that 

no notice was taken of their insult.-I hope you will administer 

some slight punishment, for example's sake, to Hasan, who began 

the quarrel. They will have had fright enough at seeing how 

seriously the matter has been taken at Head-quarters." 

The officers demurred very much at doing 80 little, but at last 

they assented to my request. But instead of taking only the 

original culprit, they led oft' eleven who had excited the people. 

The villagers gave information only too gladly, and then they 

departed with their prisoners, who were condemned by the Diwsn 

to six weeks of jail. I shall finish the story to the end, for it has 

a happy revers de la medaille. The term of punishment, during 

which the family often interceded, passed away. My husband 

would not move in the matter; he said the affair was the Wali's, 

not his, and that he would not be justified in interfering. The 

Governor-General added, "I don't care to let them out to begin 

allover again." At the end of some time, however, at my 

repeated entreaties, he discharged them. They confessed their 

fault, saying, "We even did more than what you accused us of." 

To finish the story, the following summer I went back to 

Bludsn, and the Z. family called upon me, and asked me to be 

friends with them. I saw a chance of doing one good thing for


that neighbourhood, so I said to them, "We will be friends with 

you, and very staunch friends, but I must make a conditionperhaps 

the hardest I can ask you." They swore by the Prophet 

that whatever I asked them they would do. Then I said, " Make 

up your quarrel with the Shaykhs' house. Bury your Thar, and 

on such a day you will both come to our house and embrace, and 

we will all eat bread and salt together." They agreed, and I had 

no difficulty with the Shaykhs. The meeting took place three 

times-first at our house, neutral ground, then at the Z.'s, lastly 

at the Shaykhs'. Before I left Syria they were on the most 

comfortable terms, which, I hope, lasted after our departure. All 

the turmoil of that neighbourhood was at an end, and both vied 

with us in being good to the poor and protecting the handful of 

Christians. They often said, " If in future times any disturbance 

occurs, we will remember you, and save them for your sake." 

Hasan and I also became great friends. After doctoring him 

for weak eyes, I asked, "What made you want to hurt me, 0 

Hasan ? " He replied, "I don't know-the devil entered my 

heart; the excitement of all that was going on made me want 

to begin a quarrel, and I was mad to see you always with the 

Shaykhs and never noticing us, and Kasim (an unruly relation) 

set me on, but since I have got to know you I could kill myself 

for it." This is the sense of what he said, though in his own 

language it was much prettier. The youth had an excellent 

heart, but was misled and intoxicated by the troubles of the times. 

When my husband was recalled there were none so sorry, none 

more anxious to obtain our return, and were the first and foremost 

with all their people in coming forward with a letter of sympathy, 

signed and sealed with their seal. 

My own mistake in this case, for I was also in fault, was the 

over attention paid to the Tell Shaykhs and neglect of their 

rivals. Syrians have the susceptibility of children; nothing easier 

than to hurt their feelings, and a chance word is rarely forgiven. 

The. native proverb isee 

There are drugs for the hurt of lead and steel, 

But the wounds of the tongue, they never heal." 

My excuse is that the Bayt el Z., justly or unjustly, bore an illname, 

and that it was said to pride itself upon its hatred to, and

Village Emeute. 327 

persecution of, our Christian neighbours. Still, had I to live my 

life in Bludsn over again, I should sedulously avoid all display of 

partiality. 

I related the circumstances to our Consul-General, who had 

been told the story in this form:-That I had seen a poor Arab 

beggar sitting at my gate, and because he did not rise and salute 

me I had drawn a revolver and shot him dead; to which he wisely 

replied that it wasvery extraordinary if true. It was no poor Arab 

beggar whotold that falsehood. They knew too well howthey were 

received by me. When Mr. Eldridge heard me he said that it 

was the right thing to do at that particular crisis of feeling in the 

Anti-Lebanon, that I had done perfectly right, that he was glad 

that I had acted as I had done, otherwise it might have been a 

very troublesome business. I also told Mr. K., of the Foreignoffice, 

who visited Beyrout and Damascus; and he said the same, 

and so I hope will my reader. 

We now prepared to leave Bludsn, which was (October) becoming 

cool and windy, and we knew that ere long our mountain 

home would be blocked up with snow, fit quarters only for bears 

and wolves. The fifth was an unfortunate day. Our poor JibrUn 

(the cook) became 80 much worse that I had to send for the priest 

of Zebedani, to give him the last sacraments of the Church. As 

is often the case, after the mind is at rest, his illness changed for 

the better, and, after a narrow escape, he recovered sufficiently to 

return to his family. This same day we had a very high wind, 

and my English maid was blown, entangled in her crinoline, from 

the top of the stairs to the bottom. She received several injuries, 

and was also on the sick list for some time.


CHAPTER XXI. 

BREEZY TIMES-STRUGGLES BETWEEN RIGHT AND WRONG- 

"FAlS OE QUE DOIS, ADVIENNE QUE POURRA." 

UNOFFICIALLY speaking of official things, we had rather a lively 

time, in an unpleasant sense, during these summer months. I 

always say "we," because I enter so much into my husband's pursuits, 

and am so very proud of being allowed to help him, that I 

sometimes forget that I am only as the bellows-blower to the 

organist, or the little tug to the splendid three-decker. However, 

I do not think that anybody will owe me a grudge for it, except 

the gentleman who complained to the Foreign-office that I had 

been heard to say, "I had finished my despatches "-meaning 

that I had finished the task of copying them. Imagine what sort 

of a mind the man must have for a post of trust and responsibility, 

what fitness to be an awarder of justice, who could find this nonsense 

important enough to note down against a woman, and twist 

the wrong way. 

Captain Burton's appointment was conferred upon him by 

the Earl of Derby, then Lord Stanley, in November, 1868. He 

was absent in South America on "sick leave" after a severe illness. 

As soon as the news reached him he hurried back, and on arriving 

was desired by Lord Clarendon, who had succeeded in office, and 

who was most considerate about the unhealthy season, to arrive at 

Damascus in October. 

During Captain Burton's absence, a few persons who disliked 

the appointment, and certain missionaries who feared that he was 

anti-missionary, and have since handsomely acknowledged their 

mistake, took measures to work upon Lord Clarendon on the plea


public in forming a company for making milways through 

Syria, that being the sole means of bringing about the civilization 

of their country. 

In conclusion, notwithstanding Abdullah Effendi being the 

most learned, influential, and Orthodox Moslem, and though it is 

not consistent with his principles to call upon any Christian before 

being visited, he first came to the office in company with his 

brother, and after an interview of fifty minutes departed, with a 

promise to renew the visit. 

The first shadow upon our happy life was in June---July, 

1870. A gentleman who is an amateur missionary residing at 

Beyrout came up to Damascus, visited the prisons, and distributed 

tracts to the Mohammedans. It was the intention of the acting 

Governor to collect these prints, and to make a bonfire of them 

in the market-place. Damascus was in a bad temper for such 

proseiytizing. It was an excitable year, and it was necessary to 

put a stop to proceedings which, though well meant, could not 

fail to endanger the safety of the Christian population. The 

tract distributer is a kind, humane, sincere, and charitable man, 

and we were both very sorry that he had to be cautioned. He 

has an enthusiasm in his religions views which makes him 

dangerous outside a Christian town. At Beyrout he was wellknown, 

but at Damascus he was not, and the people would have 

resented his standing on bales in the street haranging the Turks 

against Mohammed. I believe this gentleman would have gloried 

in martyrdom; but some of us, not so good 88 he is, did not aspire 

to it. His entourage, also, was not so humble or 80 kind 88 himself. 

Captain Burton was obliged to give the caution, to do his 

duty to his large district, thereby incurring most un-Christian 

hatreds, unscrupulously gratified. Captain Burton, with the high, 

chivalrous sense of honour which guides all his actions, redoubled 

his unceasing endeavours to promote the interest and business of 

these persons, amidst the hailstorm of petty spites and insults, 

which justice and greatness of mind on his part they themselves 

were obliged eventually to acknowledge, however reluctantly. We 

are decidedly destined to stumble upon unfortunate circumstanees, 

Since that, a gentleman told off to convert the Jews in one of 

Captain Burton's jurisdictions, insisted on getting a ladder and a

Struggles between Right and Wrong. 331 

hammer, and demolishing a large statue of St. Joseph in a public 

place of a Catholic country, because he said it was "a graven 

image." Why are the English so careless in their choice?" and 

why have other foreign Consuls no desagremens on this head? 

The Druzes applied early in 1870 for an English school. 

They are our allies, and we were on friendly terms with them. 

As two missionaries wished to travel amongst them, Captain 

Burton gave them the necessary introductions. They were cordially 

received and hospitably entertained by the Shaykhs, but 

on their road home they were treacherously followed by two 

ma'UvaiB BuietB and attacked, they were thrown off their horses, 

their lives were threatened, and their property was plundered. 

Such a breach of hospitality and violation of good faith required 

prompt notice; firstly, to secure safety to future travellers, 

and, secondly, to maintain the good feelings which have ever subsisted 

between the Druzes and the English. To pass over such an 

act of treachery would be courting their contempt. He at once 

demanded that the offenders might be punished by the Druze 

chiefs themselves, and 20 napoleons, the worth of the stolen goods, 

were claimed by him for the missionaries. The Druzes went down 

to Beyrout to try to pit Consulate-General against Consulate, and 

refused to pay the claim. He then applied for their punishment 

to the Turkish authorities, knowing that the Druzes would at once 

accede to his first demand-a proceeding approved of by H.M.'s 

Ambassador at Constantinople. After three months the Shaykh 

el AkkaI, head religious Chief, brought down the offenders, who 

were recognized by the missionaries. They confessed their guilt, 

and the Shaykh, who was staying as a guest in our house, assured 

Captain Burton that he was perfectly right in acting as he had 

done, and that every Druze was heartily ashamed of the conduct 

of these two men. 

In June, 1870, Captain Burton prepared a despatch for our 

Ambassador at Constantinople, on the system of defrauding the 

poor and of ruining villages by the Damascus Jewish moneylenders. 

I will now try to explain how these matters stood. 

In former days, when not a few Europeans were open to certain 

arrangements which made them take the highest interest in the


business transactions of their clients, a radically bad system,happily 

now almost extinct, was introduced into Syria. The European 

subject, or protege, instead of engaging in honest commerce, 

was thus encouraged to seek inordinate and usurious profits by 

sales to the Government and by loans to the villagers. In such 

cases he, of course, relied entirely upon the protection of a foreign 

Power, on account of the sums to be expended in feeing native 

functionaries before repayment could be expected. Thus the 

Consuls became, as it were, huissiers, or bailiffs, whose principal 

duties were to collect the bad debts of those who had foreign 

passports. 

Damascus contained a total of forty-eight adult males protected 

by B.B.M.'s Consulate, and of these there are a triumvirate 

of Shylocks whose names I suppress. Most of them 

are Jews who were admitted to, or whose fathers acquired, a 

foreign nationality, given with the benevolent object of saving 

them from Moslem cruelty and oppression in days gone by. 

These proteges have extended what was granted for the preservation 

of their lives, liberties, and property, to transactions which 

rest entirely for success upon British protection. The case of 

No.1, whom we will call Juda, is a fair example. He has few 

dealings in the City, the licit field of action. But since the 

death of his highly respectable father, in 1854, he has been 

allowing bills signed by the ignorant peasantry of the province 

to accumulate simple and compound interest, till the liabilities 

of the villagers have become greater than the value of the 

whole village. A--, for instance, on the eastern skirt of 

Mount Hermon, owes him 106,000 piastres, which were originally 

42,000. He claims 5,000 purses from the B-- family, upon a 

total debt of 242,000! piastres, in 1857. We have not yet passed 

through a single settlement where his debtors did not complain 

loudly of his proceedings; and to A-- may be added C--, 

Q--, and D-el X--, a stronghold of the Druzes. Some 

villages have been partly depopulated by his vexations, and 

the injury done to the Druzes by thus driving them from the 

Anti-Lebanon to the Hauran, may presently be severely visited 

upon the Ottoman ,authorities. The British protege is compelled 

every year, in his quality of Shubasi (farmer of revenue), to

Jewish Affairs. 333 

summon the village Shaykhs and peasantry, to imprison them, 

and to leave them lying in jail till he can squeeze from them 88 

much as possible, and to injure them by quartering Hawaii, 

or policemen, who plunder whatever they can. He long occupied 

the whole attention, though it had other and more important 

duties, of the Village Commission (Kumision Mahasibat el Kura), 

established in A.H. 1280 (1863). For about a year a special 

commission (Kumision Makhsus) had at that time-1870-been 

sitting on his case, whose intricacies, complicated by his unwillingness 

to settle anything, wearied out all the members. At 

different times he quarrelled with every person in the Courtfrom 

the Defterdar, who is its President, to the Consular Dragomans, 

who composed it. Even felony was freely imputed to him 

by various persons. He was accused of bribing the Government 

Khatibs (secretaries) to introduce into documents sentences of 

doubtful import, upon which he can found claims for increased 

and exorbitant interest, of adding lines to receipts and other 

instruments after they have been signed, and of using false seals, 

made at home by his own servants. One of the latter publicly 

denounced him, but was, as usual, paid to keep silence. He 

is reported again and again to have refused, in order that the 

peasants might remain upon his books, the ready moneys offered 

to him for the final settlement of village liabilities. His good 

management had baffled all efforts at detection, whilst every one 

was morally certain that the charges werefounded on fact. He corrupts, 

or attempts to corrupt, all those with whom he has dealings. 

Captain Burton wanted to inform them that British protection 

extends to preserving their persons and property from all injustice 

and violence, but that it would not assist them to recover debts 

from the Ottoman Government, or from the villagers of the 

province, and that it would not abet them in imprisoning or in 

distraining the latter. To such general rule, of course, exceptions 

would be admissible, at the discretion of the officer in 

charge of R.B.M.'s Consulate; in cases, for instance, when just 

and honest claims might be rejected, or their payment unduly 

delayed. The sole inconvenience which would arise to such 

creditors from their altered position would be the necessity of feeing 

the Serai more heavily; and even then they openly com-

Jewish Affairs. . 335 

I have already related how, on August 26th, Captain Burton, 

received a letter from the Rev. W. Wright, and likewise one from 

the Chief Consular Dragoman, Mr. Nasff Meshaka, which induced 

him to ride at once to Damascus (from Bludan, the summer 

quarter); how he found that half the Christians had fled, and 

everything was ripe for a new massacre; how he sought the 

authorities, and informed them of their danger; induced them 

to have night patrols, to put guards in the streets, to prevent 

Jews or Christians leaving their houses, and to take all measures 

needful to convince the conspirators that they would not find 

every one sleeping 88 they did in 1860. The Wali and all the 

chief responsible authorities were absent. The excitement 

subsided under the measures recommended by him, and in three 

days all was quiet, and the Christians returned to their homes. 

I affirm that, living in safety upon the sea-coast, no man can be 

a judge of the other side of the Lebanon, nor, if he does not 

know some Eastern language, can he be a judge of Orientals 

and their proceedings. Certain Jewish usurers had been accused 

of exciting these massacres, because their lives were perfectly 

safe, and they profited of the horrors to buy up property at a 

nominal price. It was brought to Captain Burton's notice that 

two Jewish boys, servants to British protected subjects, were 

giving the well-understood signal by drawing crosses on the walls. 

Its meaning to him was clear. Be promptly investigated it, 

and took away the British protection of the masters temporarily, 

merely reproving the boys, who had acted under orders. He 

did not take upon himself to punish them. Certain ill-advised 

Israelitish money-lenders fancied it was a good opportunity to 

overthrow him, and with him his plan of seeing fair proceedings 

on the part of British proteges; 80 they reported to Sir Moses 

Montefiore and Sir Francis Goldsmid that he had tortured the 

boys. His .proeeedings were once more proved just. The correspondence 

on the subject was marvellously interesting, but being 

official I cannot use it. 

The Jews from all times held a certain position in Syria, on 

account of their being the financiers of the country; and even in 

pre-Egyptian days Haim Farhi was able to degrade and ruin 

Abdullah Pasha, of St. John d'Acre. In the time of Ibrahim

336 TJuJ Inner Life of Syria.. 

Pasha, about forty-four years ago, when the first Consuls went 

there, a few were taken under British protection, and this 

increased their influence. Then came the well-known history 

of the murder of Padre Tomaso. After this had blown over, 

all the richest people of the community tried to become British 

protected subjects, or proteges of some foreign Consulate, In the 

time of Mr. Consul (Richard) Wood (1840), they were humble 

enough. In the massacre of 1860 they enriched themselves 

greatly, and men possessing £3000 rose suddenly to £30,000. 

Then they had at their backs in England Sir Moses Montefiore, 

Sir F. Goldsmid, and the Rothschilds, who doubtless do not know 

the true state of the Jewish usurers in this part of the world. 

The British Consul became the Jews' bailiff, and when we went 

to Syria we found them rough riding all the land. I speak only 

of the few money-lenders. When Captain Burton arrived in 

1869, Shylock No.1 came to him, and patting him patronizingly 

on the back told him he had 300 cases for him, relative to 

collecting £60,000 of debts. Captain Burton replied, "I think, 

sir, you had better hire and pay a Consul for yourself alone; I 

was not sent here as a bailiff, to tap the peasant on the shoulder 

in such cases as yours." He then threatened Captain Burton 

with the British Government. Captain Burton replied," It is 

by far the best thing you can do: I have no power to alter a 

plain line of duty." Shylock then tried my influence, but I 

replied that I was never allowed to interfere in business matters. 

Then Sir Francis Goldsmid, to our great surprise, wrote to headquarters-a 

rather unusual measure-as follows:-" I hear that 

the lady to whom Captain Burton is married is believed to be a 

bigoted Roman Catholic, and to be likely to influence him 

against the Jews." In spite of "women's rights" I was not 

allowed the privilege of answering Sir Francis Goldsmid 

officially; but I hope to convince him-even after four yearsthat 

he was misinformed. Religion certainly is, and ought to be, 

the first and highest sentiment of our hearts, and I consider it 

my highest prerogative to be a staunch and loyal Catholic. But 

I also claim to be free from prejudice, and to be untrammelled in 

my sentiments about other religions. Our great Master and His 

apostles showed no bigotry, and it is to them that I look for my

Jewiih Affai·rs. 337 

role of life, not to the clique I was born in. Many amongst us 

old Catholics, who live amongst our own people, and are educated 

men and women, go forth into the world and are quite unbiased 

against other faiths; we take to our hearts friends, without inquiring 

into their religion or politics. And if sometimes we sigh 

because they are not of our way of thinking, it is not from any 

bigotry or party feeling, it is because we love them, and we wish 

that we could give them some of our happiness and security. 

I appeal to my enemies-if I have any-to say whether I have 

any prejudice against race or creed." At all events, I have 

an honest .admiration and respect for the Jewish religion. 

They were the chosen people of God. They are more akin to us 

than any other faith. Jesus Christ was a Jew, the apostles were 

Jews. He came not to destroy the law, but to change the prescriptions 

necessary for the times. The Great Reformer was the 

connecting link between us. He made Christianity, or Judaism, 

for the multitude, a Syro-Arabian creed. He parted the Creation 

into two great divisions-those who accepted. the new school, and 

• Although a staunch Catholio, I am an ardent disciple of Mr. Disraeli-I do not 

mean Mr. Disraeli as Prime Minister of England, but the author of" Tanored." I 

read the book as a young girl in my father's house, and it inspired me with all the 

ideas,and the yearning for a wild Oriental life, which I have since been able to carry 

out. I passed two years of my early life, when emerging from the school-room, in 

my father's garden, and the beautiful woods around us, alone with" Tancred." My 

family were pained and anxious about me-thought me odd; wished I would play 

the piano, do worsted work, write notes, read the circulating library-in short, 

what is generally called improving one's mind, and I was pained because I could not. 

My uncle used to pat my head, and" hope for better things." I did not know it 

then, I do now: I was working out the problem of my future life, my present mission. 

It has lived in my saddle-pocket throughout my Eastern life. I almost know 

it by heart, 80 that when I came to Bethany, to the Lebanon, and to Mukhtarawhen 

I found myself in a Bedawi camp, or amongst the Maronite and Drnze 

strongholds, or in the society of Fakredeens-nothing surprised mo. I felt as if I 

had lived that life for yean. I felt that I went to the Tomb of my Redeemer in the 

proper spirit, and I found what I BOught. The presence of God was actually felt, 

though in visible. 

Now that the author, who possesBel by descent, a knowledge that we Northemers 

lack (a high privilege reserved to his Semitic blood), has rison to the highest 

post in England, I shall incur the suspicion of flattery from the vulgar; but my 

honest heart and pen can aft'ord it, and I see no reason to omit on that account 

what was written three years ago, when the Conservative Government was at a 

discount. Rather will I congratulate my country that, with the ERatern question 

staring us in the face, we have at the helm one of the few men in England who is 

competent to deal with it. 

z

338 TJuJ Inner Life of Syria. 

those who clung to the old. We are of the former, and the Jews 

of the latter fold. It would be madness to despise those who 

once ruled the ancient world, and who will rule again-do we 

not see signs of their return to power every day? It would 

be more than folly not to honour the old Tribes of the chosen 

people of God. In Syria only the Jews, Druzes, and Bedawin can 

boast of their origin. In the world W/3 know, only the Jews and 

Catholics can boast of antiquity of religion. An Eastern Jew 

cannot but be proud of his religion and his descent. As I turn 

over myoid Damascus journal, my heart warms to think that 

some of tny dearest native friends at Damascus were of the Jewish 

religion. I was on good terms with them all, and received sincere 

hospitality from them. At Trieste, again, the enlightened and 

hospitable Hebrews are my best friends. It is the Jews who IE'Ad 

society here, the charities, and the fashion; they are the life of 

the town. When I call to mind how many Jews I know, I like, 

and I have exchanged hospitality with, here and in the East, I 

do not know how to speak strongly enough on the subject. 

But now let us tum to the dark side of the picture. Even 

those who are the proudest of their Semitic origin speak contemptuously 

of their usurers. And, let me ask, do we pet and 

admire our own money-lenders? Let a Damascus Jew once 

become a usurer, back him up with political influence, and see 

what he will become. He forgets race and creed; that touching, 

dignified, graceful humility changes into fawning servility, or to 

brutal insolence and cruelty, where he is not afraid. He thirsts 

only for money. The villainies practised by the usurers, especially 

the Shylocks in Damascus, excite every right-minded person to 

indignation; and if I had no other esteem for my husband, I 

should owe it to him for the brave manner in which he made a 

stand against these wrongs at every risk. He knew that no 

other Consul had ever dared-nor would ever dare-to oppose it; 

but he said simply, " I must do right; I cannot sit still and see 

what I see, and not speak the truth; I must protect the poor, 

and save the British good name, ad'lJienn.e que pourra, though 

perhaps in so doing I shall fall myself"-and he did. He is not" 

what is called a religious man, but he acts like one; and if he 

did nothing else to win respect and admiration, tliat alone should

Jewish Affairs. 339 

give people an insight into his character, whilst I-like Job's 

wife-incessantly said, "Leave all this alone, as your predecessor 

did, 88 your Consul-General does, and as your successor will do, and 

keep your place, and look forward to a better." If the usurers 

had been Catholics instead of Jews, I should like them to have 

lost their "protection," to have been banished from Damascus, 

and e:uommunicated as long as they plied their trade. More I 

cannot say. 

One man alone had ruined and sucked dry forty-one villages. 

He used to go to a distressed village and offer them money, keep 

all the papers, and allow them nothing to show; adding interest 

and compound interest, which the poor wretches could not understand. 

Then he gave them no receipts for money received; so 

88 to be paid over and over again. The uneducated peasant had 

nothing to show against the clever Jew at the Diwan, till body 

and soul, wives, children, village, flocks, and land, became his 

property and slaves for the sake of the small sum originally borrowed. 

These men, who a few years ago were not worth much, 

are now rolling in wealth. We found villages in ruins, and 

houses empty, because the men were cast into jail, the children 

starving, and women weeping at our feet because these things 

were done in the name of England-by the powerful arm. of the 

British Consulate. My husband once actually found an old man 

of ninety, who had endured all the horrors of the Damascus jail 

during the whole of a biting winter, for owing one of these men a 

napoleon (sixteen shillings). He set him free, and ever after 

visited the prisons once a week, to see whether the British, protected 

subjects had immured pauper Christians and Moslems on 

their own responsibility. One of the usurers told my husband 

to beware, for that he knew a Royal Highness of England, and 

that he could have any Consular Officer recalled at his pleasure; 

and my husband replied that he and his clique could know very 

little of English Royalty, if they thought that it would protect 

such traffic as theirs. The result of this was that they put their 

heads together, and certain letters were sent to the Chief Rabbi 

of London, Sir Francis Goldsmid, and Sir Moses l\lontefiore. They 

sent telegrams and petitions, purporting to be from "all the Jews 

in Damascus." We believe, however, that "all the Jews in 

...:.


CHAPTER XXII. 

GIPSYING AGAIN. 

ON the 10th of October half the servants, with the English maid, 

the pet animals, baggage, and furniture, were sent direct to 

Damascus under escort. Captain Burton and I left Bludsn to 

return to our winter quarters at Salahfyyeh by a longer route. 

Hanna Misk attended, with four servants, nine mules, and 

muleteers. The Shaykhs and Begs accompanied us, and great 

demonstrations of affection were made, of sorrow for our departure, 

and of hopes of our return next year, by all the inhabitants of 

Bludan and Zebedani. 

We had a delightful ride across the Anti-Lebanon, through 

a mountain defile, to Ain el Bardi, where we found Arab black 

tents, and flocks feeding by the water. I have 80 often to speak 

of these Black Tents; the best picture I have ever seen of them 

was sketched by the Viscountess Strangford, and forms one of the 

illustrations of her charming book, "Egyptian Sepulchres and 

Syrian Shrines.l'" Here we spent the heat of the day. This 

tribe wear red jack-boots of soft leather, with dangling tassels, 

white baggy trousers, and a kumbaz like a white dressing 

gown, under a green cloak; a red and gold kuffyyeh, or kerchief, 

falling over head and shoulders, is fastened by the usual aghaI, 

or fillet of camel's hair. The Chief has bristly mustachios, like 

Bluebeard's, small black peering eyes close together, and a short, 

sharp address, which has been 80 often compared to the bark of 

• This book was very popular at the time it was publiahed, and I am delighted 

to see a fresh edition just announoed.

Gipsying again. 345 

a dog. We rode on all the rest of the day through the rough 

defile, with here and there a smooth place for a gallop. We 

crossed the French road, and passing through part of the Buks'e 

plain we encamped after dark at Mejdel Anjar. Jibnin being 

ill, we had also made the mistake of bringing no cook, each of 

us fancying we could manage it ourselves; but we were 80 very 

tired that, though the horses were duly looked after, the dinner 

was reduced to indigestible Baydh Mukleh (Cried eggs.) Next 

morning we inspected our country. Mejdel is a little village 

situated on a hillock, which stands alone. On the top is a temple, 

a little gem, built by Herod Agrippa in honour of Augustus. 

There was 8 graceful broken column, which I felt grateful to 

certain pilgrims for not having carried away with them. Below 

is the ruin of Herod's palace, and at twenty minutes' ride lie 

the ruins of Chalcis. From the temple we had a magnificent 

view. We could see the greater part of the Buks'e, walled in at 

either side by the Lebanon and the Anti-Lebanon, dotted with 

its seventy-two villages. Anjer is bisected by the Litani river, 

falsely called the Leontes. Having feasted our eyes, we rode 

down to the square ruins of Chalcis in the plain. We watered 

the thirsty horses, but the liquid was bad and muddy. We 

then rode on to Neby Za'lir, and climbed up the hill, but the 

keepers of the Tomb refused to let us in. Captain Burton was 

not with us; however, by dint of bakshfsh I obtained leave to 

measure it, and to carry off bones and skulls out of a dry well 

hard by, which appeared to be the local burying ground. With 

the sun beating cruelly on our heads, we went along the French 

road. At one o'clock we arrived at Shtora, the half-way house, 

where wepulled up and asked for a drink of water; I fainted, and 

slipped out of my saddle, so instead of going on I was put to bed, 

and all next day my head was too bad to rise. On the 12th 

we started again, and for a long while galloped along the carriage 

road, ascending the Lebanon; near its summit we suddenly turned 

off to our left, across a mountain called Jebel Baruk, in the 

territory" El Akkub." A long scramble of six hours led us to 

the village of Baruk, B Druze stronghold, in a wild glen on the 

. borders of their territory, which we were now entering. We did 

not find our tents; but it no longer signified, for we were amongst


friends and allies, who would treat us like brothers, 80 we went off 

at once to the Shaykh's house. 

The Druzes have been so much written about by Baron de 

Sacy, by Colonel Churchill, and by a host of others, that it 

becomes me to say but little. They are, par eeeellenee, the race 

in Syria. A fine, manly people, that hails us as cousins, tall 

and athletic, that can ride, shoot, and fight. They are honest and 

plain-spoken; every man is a natural bom gentleman, and, 

without being taught, he instinctively behaves like one. The 

Druze house to which I first went was painted black inside; it had 

a flat, raftered ceiling, and straight, tall columns down the middle, 

from roof to ground. They conform to the national religion, the 

Moslem, but in speaking to you or me they would appear to be 

particularly taken with our respective faith; they have a secret 

creed of their own, which, although women are admitted to the 

Council Chamber, is mysterious as freemasonry. Of course, many 

nonsensical tales are told about them by good Moslems. Some 

say they worship Eblis; Christians, the bull-calf (EI Ijl). Their 

women wear a long blue garment and a white veil; the whole 

face is hid except one eye. Over our coffee I asked them if it 

took long to decide which was the prettiest eye. This small 

joke amused them, or they pretended to be amused, and they 

repeated it one to another. They are faithful wives and good 

mothers, and they keep clean and comfortable homes. The whole 

lace, men and women, are respected and feared by the other creeds, 

who are proud to be able to say that they are friends with or know 

the Druzes. The men as a rule are tall, broad, stalwart, and muscular, 

with limbs of iron, like Highlanders; they have good heads, 

which run up rather high at the back, fine foreheads, large black 

eyes, alternately soft and glaring, black hair cut close, long 

beards, dark, straight eyebrows, and curling eyelashes, brown complexions, 

with a little colour, straight noses, large but wellshaped 

mouths, with full under lips, showing white teeth and 

well-set throats. They have proud and dignified manners; their 

language is full of poetry, and they use fine similes. They are 

good riders and fighters, they play the Jerid well, and they lift 

weights after the manner of our Northerners. They wear red jackboots, 

pointed at the toe, woollen socks, green cloth baggy.

348 T1wJ Inner IAfe 01 8yria. 

my conversation, which I had addressed to the man in front 

of me. 

We descended into B deep defile, and rose up again on the opposite 

side. The whole way was lined with horsemen and footmen, 

and the women trilled out their joy-cry. Ascending the other bank 

was literally like going up stairs cut in the rock. Arrived at the 

house, we were cordially received by the Sitt Jumblatt, with all 

the gracious hospitality of the East, and with the well-bred ease 

of a European grande dame. She took us into the reception-room, 

when water and scented soap were brought in carved brass ewers 

and basins; incense was waved before us, and we were sprinkled 

with rose-water, whilst an embroidered gold canopy was held over 

us to concentrate the perfume. Coffee, sweets, and sherbet were 

served, and then I was shown to a very luxurious room. 

Next morning the Bitt devoted the time to business, and, 

as a token of confidence, explained her long-neglected affairs 

and grievances, the settlement of which, however, unfortunately 

did not belong to my husband's jurisdiction. The room was 

filled with greybearded, turbaned scribes, with their long brass 

inkstands. After receiving visits from all the teachers of the 

American and English schools, we sat down to a mid-day meal, 

equivalent to a dinner, perfectly dressed, and in very good taste. 

After this there was a Jerid, which lasted about two hours, in 

which the sons and their fighting tribe displayed grace and skill. 

We then visited the schools. One boy, who did not appear to be 

more than ten years of age, was married. Imagine a married boy 

of ten in an English school! I also noticed one very handsome lad, 

with an expression that made me think he would be a trouble to 

his mother. We visited the village and all the premises attached 

to the palace. The stables. which are solid and extensive, like 

tunnels with light let in, contained fifty or sixty horses, mostly 

all showing blood, and some quite thorough-bred. 

At nightfall we had a second dinner, and afterwards all the 

retainers and others flocked in. There were dancing and war-songs 

between the Druzes of the Lebanon and the Druzes of the Haursn, 

ranged on either side of the banquetting-hall. They also performed 

pantomimes; one was of a man dressed like a woman, 

dancing and balancing a jug upon her head, as if she were going

Gipsying again. 349 

to the well. Then they sang, and recited tales of love and war, 

till far into the night. 

On the 15th we mounted early, and accompanied by all our 

friends, we rode to Dayr el Kamar, a large village in the territory 

of EI Manasif. Then we went to B'teddin,· now the palace of 

Franco Pasha, Governor of the Lebanon. We were not less 

surprised than pleased with our reception: the improvements 

effected by this excellent Governor were quite exceptional in 

Syria. The old palace of the Emir Beshir Shahab, a heap of 

ruins, is at present the finest building in Syria and Palestine. 

Franco Pasha had thoroughly learnt the lesson of civilization 

which preaches the gospel of the school and the road; he has 

opened educational establishments for adults as well as children, 

and besides schooling he teaches handicraft and trades-shoemaking, 

tailoring, and carpet and rog manufacturing; he has 

finished, with little expense, a carriage road from B'teddin to 

Baklin; he projects another to Dau Bridge, and he hopes to open 

a communication with the French road at Khan Mudayraj, a work 

begun by Daoud Pasha; he was teaching a band of music, which 

already played pretty well; he had planted thousands of trees, 

chiefly pine; he meets every case with liberality and civilization; 

he was a religious man, and Allah and the Sultan were his only 

thoughts. Everything he did for the natives' good, he told them 

that it came from his Master and theirs, 80 that "llay Allah 

prolong the days of our Sultan" was ever in the people's mouth. 

It would have been happy if a few more Franco Pashas were distributed 

about Syria and Palestine. 

This remarkable man and his family received us abras ouoerte. 

His five hundred soldiers were drawn up in line to salute us. 

The family consisted of his wife and seven children, an aunt, a 

French tutor and his wife, and several secretaries. After our 

reception we were invited to the divan, where we drank coffee. 

Whilst 80 engaged an invisible band struck up "God save the 

Queen;" it was like an electric shock to hear our national hymn 

in that remote place, we who had been 80 long in the silence of 

the Anti-Lebanon. We sprang to our feet, and-don't laugh at 

• The word is written Bayt ed Din (House of Religion); othen make it a corruption 

of Ibteddin.


each other that you are his confidante, his camarade, his friend; 

but before others you must salute him at a distance, even if you 

are parting for months. You must not think of taking his arm; 

you must obey his slightest look, and show in every way that 

he is your superior. By acting according to custom, both are 

respected, and considered a happy couple. By acting according 

to the customs of the ordinary classes of Europe when in uncivilized 

places, the woman does not raise herself, but lowers 

her husband. 

And now a word to the philanthropic of my sex. You who 

travel for a little while in Syria, and are possessed by a mania to 

adopt a biped sample of the Holy Land, and to transplant it to 

your English home, pause awhile. It may answer your expectations, 

far more likely it will not. If it does not, let me lay the 

future before you. I will suppose that you adopt, as most people 

do, a Christian boy. Are you prepared to accept him for a master, 

and to leave him all you possess, or at any rate, to provide for him 

for life? The Syrian Christian is one to whom if you give an 

inch he will take many ells. He will act the" porcupine and the 

snakes; JJ he will shortly be owner of the house, and make you 

feel as if you were staying there on a visit. You will find that 

you have invested in a most luxurious and expensive article. He 

will press you for money or presents, be there ever such a difficulty 

of gratifying him, and he will always contrive, be you ever 80 

loving and generous, to make your gifts seem mean in comparison 

witb those of others. He may vow affection and faith to you, and 

be ready to nurse you through a sickness,or swear to die with you, 

yet all the time he may he keeping a journal, in order to fall upon 

you should some accident make it his interest to do so. "'orshipping 

you all the while, he will ill-treat you, and be rude to 

you, and seek a quarrel with you every day, because he says he 

loves you, and is " intimate JJ with you, and you are like a mother 

to him, and he will tell you it is not worth while to be on such 

terms unless he can do as he likes. But he will be charming, and 

ready to run errands for a person who keeps him sternly in order, 

and who would not even say "thank you " for his services. Yet 

you have not the heart to copy that person's manner towards him, 

because you brought him out of his country.

Syrian, Proteges. 355 

Afghan, tho Kurd, the l\Iogharibeh, the Bedawin, are superior 

to the City Moslems, and the City Moslems are superior to the 

Jews and the City Christians. 

Living for some time amongst these races gives you such 

keen instincts that you seem almost to yourself to be perpetually 

clairvoyante. But it is as painful as too much light, and at last 

you would almost give anything to be deceived-to be what 

the Germans call " dumm," 'Vhen you return to Europe, every 

one's thoughts and intentions are seen 08 through a pane of glass j 

their rough, honest, coarse attempts at deception are like the 

gambols of an elephant, the littlo "dodges" barefacedly deceive 

you, detract you, and ridicule you before your very face; whose 

ill-bred perpetrators say with confusion, "I did not think you 

would see that," only because you were too refined and well-bred 

to laugh and offer to help them through their clumsiness. 

It is so amusing to encourage the Syrians in their own country, 

just to sec what their nature will prompt them to. Take a lIountain 

or Desert native, and make him or her perfectly at home with 

you, just to seo how soon the grand, courteous manner will wear 

off. In about ten minutes he or she will have asked for thirteen 

or fourteen things-each costing at least £5O-saying, "I love 

you so much that I sit here thinking what more I can ask you 

for," in the full, child-like confidence (as we go to Allah) that all 

they ask they will obtain. They will then run round your room 

and pull everything to pieces, look in your drawers, sit gazing in 

the glass, playing with your powder, your perfumes, your cold 

cream, until they have put it all on in the wrong places, "because 

(they wind up) it is delightful to be so intimate with you." I 

have had many a half hour's amusement in this way, only I always 

put toilette articles on purpose. Of course, I do not allude to the 

people who live in towns, who are accustomed to Europeans, but 

to the children of Nature, of the wilds. 

How very sorry wo were to part this day. The Bitt Jumblatt 

and I formed a friendship which, if our lives last, I hope some 

clay to enjoy again. We often met, and we used to write to each 

other, Her letters would begin, " My dearest sister," and were full 

of those pretty things which only an Eastern can say, such 88, 

" My eyes sought you for many days till my head ached. 'Vhen

336 Tlie Inner LiJe oj' Syria. 

will you come to repose them, that I may not see your empty 

place? " 

We were accompanied out with the same honours as those with 

which we were ushered in, and at 8 certain point we all took 

different ways. Captain Burton and Hanna Misk went to visit 

Ali Beg J umblatt, and I rode along a mountain path, a very 

fair specimen of South Lebanon. I took it very quietly, and 

occupied five hours in reaching J ezzfn, my night's halt, arriving 

at 3 p.m. I passed through or by the following places-.A.in 

Kunni, Ain Makhtur, Harat J endel, Bathir, where I stopped to 

rest by a stream with Yiisuf Beg, a distinguished Maronite chief. 

Then we-rode past Kala'at l\Iiyeh, a castle, Bayt lIon, the tomb 

of Neby Misha and his sister, and that of Islaika, 8 Mohammedan 

saint, and Neby Ayub, and Druze prophets on two mountain sides. 

..\Ii Beg, whom Captain Burton went to see, lived at Baderhan, on 

the mountain tops, but I passed under it; Kassin was on my 

right, and Zeba'ah Niha, with Kala'at Niha, its castle. 

Jezzln is a pretty village, with houses, not huts; it contains 

5,000 inhabitants (Maronites), three churches, and Sisters of 

Charity. So far, then, it is more civilized than many a European 

place that has hunted them out. Every Empire, City, Town, or 

Village that sends away its Sisters of Charity must have a serious 

moral disease, that of wanting to cast off its God. Who can tell 

us it is an advantage to any country to suppress the Sisters of 

Charity-to suppress any good woman? The Sisters of Charity 

are heaven's own angels. '\Thy not suppress all institutions for 

the poor and distressed, and the hospitals; tax air, light, water, 

sleep, and every human comfort, and tell us it is a blessing? The 

Soeurs de Charite de Saint Vincent de Paul are the Grand Order 

connected with the French ...\.rmy and Foreign l\fissions. This 

llrmy of holy women numbers sixteen thousand, who are spread all 

over the world, doing the corporal and spiritual works of mercy. 

CORPOR.\L. BPlJUTt.:'.\L. 

To feed the hungry, To counsel the doubtful, 

Give drink to the thirsty, Instruct the ignorant, 

Clothe the naked, Adlnollish sinners, 

Harbour the harbourless, Comfort the afflicted, 

Visit the sick, Forgive injuries, 

Visit the imprisoned, and Bear wrongs patiently, 

Bury the dead. Pray for the living and the dead.

358 TI,e Inner Life of Syria. 

" Ah! que j'exerce un touchant ministere ! 

J e dois du pauvre adoucir la douleur. 

De I'orphelin essuyer 18 paupiere ; 

Faire couler lea larmes du pecheur j 

Je l'affermis 3 son moment supreme, 

En lui montrant son divin RCdempteur, 

Qui s'est fait honune et qui mourut lui-meme; 

Pour expier sa faute et son erreur. 

" 0 grandeur de In. charit6 !- 

Oh !- que Jesus la recompense I 

II ennoblit par sa presence 

La douleur et l'infirmite ; 

Et Ie haillon sur le pauvre jete 

Couvre anos yeux Ie Dieu de MajestC." 

By A S

Mount Hermon. 359 

forty intrigues around the bowl of rice that night, all dipping 

the hand into the same dish, and silently making plans one 

against another. All the men of the party slept on the divans of 

the reception room, and I returned to the harim. 

October 18th.-Captain Burton was in the saddle betimes, with 

Hanna Misk. I roso at leisure, breakfasted with Ytisuf Beg, 

and then had a slow ride of five hours over bad country, across 

EI Shuf el Biyad, Jebel cd Dahar, and Wady et Tame, to 

Ilasheyynh, This town is situated on two high hills, where there 

is no water, Scarcely were our tents pitched when, without 

any provocation, tho Grcek Orthodox party fastened on our 

Maronita boy, Habib. About two hundred of them set upon 

him, and I saw their priest cheering them on from the roof of 

0. house. Druze chiefs came from all parts to visit us, and thus 

we were able to settle the assault on conditions highly favourable 

to us. 

On the 19th we rose before daylight to ascend Mount 

Hermon. It was easy enough at first, but gradually became more 

difficult. I was well-mounted, and rode up three-quarters of the 

way. We reached the summit at 10.30 p.m., when we breakfasted, 

and inspected the three-headed mountain. 'The highest, 

which shares with Tabor 8 claim to be tho scene of the Transfiguration, 

we made our resting-place. 'Ve put up a Kaku, or 

pile of stones, for a remembrance, and we found B cave. The 

view was beautiful. 'Ve could see the outlines of Damascus, and 

Jaynid, Nebk, Kutarfl, the Leja'a, the Haman, Kunatra, the 

sea of Galilee, 'I'iborias, tho mountains of Samaria, Ajltin 

(Gilead), Balad es Sikif, B'sharah, Carmel, Acre, Tyre, Saida 

(Sidon), and Beyrout. 

Tho only live animal was a large hare startled from its form 

on tho ascent. W0 read and wrote, slept and smoked, and talked 

over plans of camping up here in the cave for a week, the only 

difficulty being water. Later in the afternoon we came down 

sliding with poles, tumbling over looso stones, and laughing proportionately 

at our disasters. 'Ve had hardly a shoo left in the 

party, and our garments were torn to rags. When the steepest 

part was over, we diverged slightly to tho left, and came to a 

little piece of water bordered by stones and wild thyme, where

Waters oj MerOllZ. 363 

OctOber 26tlJ.-We were both of us up and off early. Our new 

acquaintances, !Ir. and Mrs. Clark, kindly sent me " Lothair It 

to take on m}? way. 'Ve saluted each other with a discharge of 

small arms from our camps as we went our ways. Ali Beg 

Ahmadi and his cavalry came to escort me, and Shaykh Ahmadi 

and many others remained with mo, Captain Burton, Hanna 

Misk, and the Christians, rode off by another path betimes. 

'Vo had a delicious gallop over the plain of Ghyam, which is 

part of the Ard el Hulch, through which runs the Jordan, and 

over tho plain of Abba, another portion of tho same, cultivated 

and rich, but full of 8\Vamps. This river valley of the Jordan is 

flanked by the mountains. Before us was Mount Hermon and tho 

Kunaytorah, and the waters of Merom, and beyond that-though 

we could not sea so far-we knew lay tho lower Jordan and the 

sea of Galilee. The ride did me good. At last we came to the 

tents, an encampment of thick matting and sticks, guarded by 

tho most uncouth, bearish, hyena-ish dogs I ever saw, Here we 

stopped and drank milk with the Bedawin, I found 8 man at 

death's door; I gave him some "To.rbnrg's drops, and a little bottle 

with directions. He afterwards came to me strong and well, and 

with a heart full of gratitude. 

It was a tantalizing day. The lake appeared at no great 

distance, and instead of riding straight to it, lye diverged all day, 

up and down, in and out, to avoid the marshy, rushy places. 

This, too, under a burning sun, without 0. breath of air till ..night, 

and I actually found my good strong horse flagging. What 8 

rich land this would bo if properly drained and planted; now it 

teems with luxuriant rankness, as does all the valley of the 

Jordan, and fever and death. 'Ve pitched our tents under a largo 

tree, divided from the lake by papyrus swamps, a most unwholesomo 

spot, where we wcre punished by flies and mosquitoes, and 

the tents were full of crawling things. We all got headache at 

once. However, we pitched and prepared our tents, and groomed 

our horses, meaning to move on next day, 

Bahret el Hiiloh, the waters of Merom," also called Lake Sernachonitis, 

a small, blue, triangular lake, is the first of the three 

basins of the Jordan. 

• The waters of Morom nrc chieOy mentionedin 8cripturt} in Joshua ii. 6, 0, 7.


Our dinner was amusing. "re had nll sorts of people at it. 

'Ve sat round the dish of rice and chicken, plunging our hands 

into it-e-Bedawi fashion-all at once. They are very dexterous 

in rolling balls of rice in their hands, and then they shy them at 

their mouths, catching them and swallowing them as a dog does a 

bit of bread. They vie with one another who can make and toss 

the largest ball; in the same manner they feed their camels. 

At first I used to leave the dinner hungry, which taught me to 

use my hands better. Many choice morsels of fat were put into 

my mouth by those who were privileged to pay me the compliment. 

We passed an awful night, and could not sleep for many 

reasons, the stifling heat being one. Then came 8 hurricane or 

wind, torrents of rain, and thunder aba lightning, which discomforted 

me, because we were camped under the only tree in the 

plain. It was very dark, and the mosquitoes and fleas were legion. 

\""e spent the dark hours in holding our tent pole against the 

wind, and in digging trenches outside to let the water off. 

October 27th.-The same weather continued all this day, with 

fearful storms of thunder and lightning. There was no food for 

man, and none for the horses, which was much worse. Everyone 

was ill, and nobody was able to move or work. I turned all the 

mares, mules, and donkeys loose, to pick their own living, and 

muleteers and Saises led the horses with long halters to green 

patches. 'Ve spent the day reorganizing our baggage, and 

tidying the tents. The beds were filled with water, and everything 

became a mass of UDsavoury black mud. The trunks had 

constantly to be removed, the crevices filled up, the tents made 

" taut" with ropes and waterproofs. No dry clothes were to be 

had. I piled up some trunks and sat at the top of them, and 

devoured "Lothair" at all the times that were free from work. I 

remember how curiously the descriptions of the refined houses of 

England read, whilst sitting amid black mud in the centre of 

desolation, surrounded by feverish s,,-amps. Yet the life was of 

111Y O'fD choosing-my own seeking; it suited me, with all its 

drawbacks, 'Ve must have some moments of inconvenience, and 

I would not have exchanged it for the old life. 

Ortober 28t1l.-'" 0 were up betimes, and finding the encamp-


into several groups, the principal people composing ours, and 

every group having their own dish. 

I often think with regret of the strange scenes which became 

a second nature to me: of those dark, fierce men, in their gandy, 

flowing costumes, lying about in various attitudes, the fire or the 

moonlight lighting them up; the divans and the pipes, the narghflehs 

and coffee; of their wild, mournful songs, of their war 

dances, and of their story-telling, in which love and war are the 

only and blending subjects. There is something in an Eastern 

man's voice peculiarly seductive. The women's are shrill, discordant, 

and nasal, they put your teeth on an edge, and vow 

agacent lea nerfe. The commonest Moslem, Druze, Kurd, Afghan, 

or Bedawi, has a soft yet guttural accent, that comes from 

the chest, in which there is passion and repose-it is rich and 

strong, but restrained; it becomes music when reciting, and tells 

upon the ear like the soughing of the distant wind, or like the 

gondolier serenades of Venice as they come floating along the 

water, under the shimmer of the harvest moon. I have heard 

that rare voice but once or twice in Europeans, and that was 

because they had lived in the East, or had Tuscan mothers; and 

there is 0, laziness and yet a virility in the Spanish voice that 

reminds me slenderly of the Oriental. 

The Easterns have also 8 magnetic power which they fortunately 

ignore, as 0, horse his strength, or they. would use it dangerously. 

It is natural to 'them to exhale electricity, and those 

susceptible to mesmerism should be aware of it. This is also a 

rare European quality, but I have met with it, in which case I 

often suspect Semitic blood. 

Bedawi women dress in a long blue skirt with large hanging 

sleeves; the long hair floats down the back; some tribes tattoo 

blue patterns on their lips, faces, and bodies, but the tribes 

paint differently, as all have their separate device. They wear 

nose-rings-generally in one nostril-and all the ornaments they 

can get-ehiefly of glass-bought in the towns, If 8 woman has 

Or child, a husband who can afford it gives her a camel to suckle 

the babe, which she returns when the child is weaned. The 

women rise with the .light, feed the sheep, milk the camels, and 

do all the work. In the morning the .. shepherds and slaves drive 

,

Bedawi Lije. 367 

oft'the flocks; the women make bread by turns, and it is eaten 

hot, with draughts of camel's or goat's milk. In the evening the 

food consists of 0. hodge-podge of rice or "burghol" flour and 

milk. Some are told off to repair the tents, and spin the staff of 

sheep wool, or camel hair. The fighting men are lazy, but if 

news of a Ghazu (raid) approaches the camp, they spring to their 

horses, and are gone in an instant. The shepherds, who are tho 

outposts, give a Sihar, or peculiar cry, and they scud o.,Yay in all 

directions. The women catch the colts, and then begins 0. life 

and death struggle, with a general "bolt" for the vanquished, 

especially if it is 0. "Thar," or blood feud. A quiet Rahfl, or 

march, follows sudden news of an approaching danger. The order 

is given for to-morrow, to collect their stragglers. They striko 

tents, pack up, and move in close line by night without speaking; 

and unless 0. baby cries or a colt whinnies, they would pass an 

enemy closo and never be heard. 

They are very romantic, and have desperate love affairs. It 

is their invariable custom, which, curiously enough, does not spoil 

the race, to marry first cousins, counting only on the father's 

side. The eldest malo first-cousin claims his eldest first cousin 

as his right. He will, however, allow her to marry if he does 

not want her, especially if he gets a mare, or some camels, as 0. 

douceur. Foster brothers and sisters become blood relations. 

The woman of the settled Arab, in all classes of life, 88 a rule 

lives thus:-the husband rises in the morning, she brings his soap 

and water, and he washes his hands and face. She gives him his 

breakfast and narghfleh, and then he goes out. If he is good he 

will look after his fields, his vineyards, his silkworms, his shop, 

or whatever he has. If he is not a steady man he will lounge in 

the bath and smoke with his friends, neglecting his business. 

She cleans her house, prepares the evening meal. On his return 

she must bring him water to wash his hands and face, and she 

will sit on the floor and wash his feet. She gives him his coffee, 

sherbet, and narghileh, Then she brings his dinner, and whilst 

ho eats she stands and waits upon him, with arms crossed over 

the breast, and eyes humbly cast down. She dares not speak 

unless he speaks to her, and does everything to please him. Sho 

then gives him his coffee and pipe, and leaves him to spend the

368 

evening as he pleases. This sounds cruel, but when the pressure 

of the master's presence is taken oft'the Eastern woman, she is not 

half so nice in the common classes. Then she sits in a comer of 

the room on the floor, and takes the remainder of the dinner with 

her children, and most probably she sleeps with them. Besides 

all this, the poorer orders must not only do the whole house work 

-lighting fires, boiling water, and cooking dinner-but clean the 

house, attend to the children, wait on the husband, draw and 

carry water on her head, break the wood for three or four hours, 

milk the cows, feed the sheep and goats, drive them to drink, dig 

the fields, cut the com, make and bake bread-in fact, all the 

hard drudge of both man and woman. 

The higher classes of large towns who have grown sufficiently 

rich, and scraped up a European idea or two, pride themselves 011 

doing nothing but dress, paint, lounge on divans, with narghilehs 

and coffee, sweets, scents, and gossip, and spend several hours in 

the Turkish bath; they grow fat and yellow, waddling end unwieldy, 

There is much of this in grand Syrian life. They only 

sec the men of their family, just like tho rest, unless they love 

en cachette, and then, if they find an opportunity, may converse 

with uncovered face; but \YOO betide the lovers if the police or 

the relatives get wind of it, through a. servant or an enemy. If a 

husband comes back to a home made uncomfortable by 0. careless, 

foolish wife, he will apply the stick to her without remorse, but 

not brutally or injuriously, and if she answers or uses foul language, 

he will pick off his shoe and strike her on the mouth. But 

do not be squeamish, my British readers-read our own police 

reports, and think the Syrian husband an angel. There arc no 

-gouged-out eyes, no ribs broken by "running kicks," and 110 

smashing with the hammer and the poker. This is simply lL 

neglected man asserting his rights with a few stripes in the llri 

YRCy of his house-not Or shameful street brawl under the influence 

of drink. 

The Bedawin pride themselves on having much more intelligence 

and refinement, romance and poetry, than the settled Arab 

races; they have an especial contempt for the Fellahin. One 

day a Bedawi threw this in the face of a Christian Fellah. They 

had some high words about it, upon which the Bedawi said,

Bedatoi tJerBUB Fellah. 3611 

"Well, thou shalt come to our tents. I will ask my daughter 

but three questions, we will note her answers. I will accompany 

thee to thy village, and thou shalt ask thy daughter the 

same three questions, and we will compare her language with 

my daughter's. Both are uneducated. My daughter knows 

naught but nature's language. Thine may have seen something 

of towns or villages, and passers by, and have some advantage 

over mine." 

They first went to the camp. 

Bedawi father- C ( 0 my daughter! " 

.Girl-" Here I am, 0 my father! " 

Father-" Take our horses and picket them." 

The ground was stony, and she hammered at the peg. 

Girl-" My father, I knocked the iron against the stone, but 

the ground will not open to receive her visitor." 

" Change it, 0 my daughter! " 

At dinner her father knew he had rice on his beard, and that 

the girl was ashamed. 

" What is it, 0 my daughter?" 

"My father, the gazelles are feeding in a valley full of grass!" 

He understood, and wiped his beard. 

"Wake us early, 0 my daughter!" 

" Yes, my father." 

She called him-" My father, the light is at hand." 

" How dost thou know, 0 my daughter?" 

"The anklets are cold to my feet-I smell the flowers on the 

river bank, and the SUD bird is singing." 

Thence they went to the Fellah's village. It was nowhis turn. 

Fellah-" My daughter I " 

Girl-" What do you want, father?" 

" Take our horses and picket them." 

The ground being hard she hammered uselessly, and losing 

temper threw down the stone, crying- 

" I have knocked it 80 hard, and it won't go in." 

" Change it then, girl! " 

At dinner he purposely dropped some rice on his beard. She 

pointed at him, began to laugh, and said, "Wipe your chin, my 

father." 

2 B


On going to bed he said, " Wake us early, my daughter! " 

" Yes, father," she replied. 

"Father," she called at dawn, " get up; it is daylight! " 

" How do you know, my daughter?" 

" My stomach is empty, I want to eat." 

The Fellah was obliged to acknowledge the superiority of a 

Bedawi household over his own. 

I wrote a very literal specimen of a few of the verses that 

used to be recited in camp on these delicious evenings; but as 

the Arabic lines will be useless to an English reader, I give only 

the translation. 

" Ali, all the Bedawi girls love you; 

Their first-born and even the camels want you; 

Ah! they would still love you if you goaded them, 

So offerings from Homs and Hamah came to you. 

" Ali, the glory and the Lion of our Desert, 

Who spread our grounds with silk and velvet ; 

Ali, who rules the lion and the tiger in peace, 

And who put the mustachios on a level with the beard. 

"The eyes-O Allah I-longing after him, 

Full of sorrow-my heart after him ; 

Accursed be the sleep of my eyes after him ; 

He fled, and left me no happiness. 

" The tears flow down my cheeks like two rivulets, 

A little ship sailed on my tears ; 

Right he who couples death and exile, 

The longing eyes find not their lover. 

"Tears fall down my cheeks like a stranger's, 

And my tears sailed the little stranger ship; 

I want thee not, 0 life 1 in this strange land, 

The longing eyes find not their lover." 

To continue my story of travel. When we went to our tents 

we lay down on our respective rugs, and I had put out the light, 

when my husband called to me from the other side, "Come 

quick, I am stung by a scorpion!" I struck a match, and ran 

over to his rug and looked at the place he pointed to, .but there 

was a mere speck of blood, and I was convinced it was only a big

Bedawi Life. 371 

black ant. He did not mind that, 80 I lay down again. Hardly 

had I done so when he called out, "Come quick again, I know 

it is a scorpion!" I again struck a light, ran over, plunged my 

hand inside the shirt near the throat, and drew it out quickly, 

with the scorpion hanging by its crab-like claws to my finger. I 

shook it off and killed it, but it did not sting me, being, I suppose, 

unable to manage it a third time. I rubbed some strong 

smelling salts into his wounds, having no liquid ammonia; he 

was very pale, so I ran off to the provision-box, where I fortunately 

found some raki. I made him drink it, to keep the poison 

away from the heart. He then slept, and awoke in the morning 

quite well. 

The harim was numerous. They all had brown faces, tattooed 

blue, and their lips dyed blue. From them I learnt the "skeleton 

of the camp," which the men were too proud and self-concentrated 

to show grief for before us. The Emir's daughter, a beautiful 

A'irl, aged seventeen, and engaged to be .married, had died the day 

before our arrival of fever. Yet, true to his Eastern stoicism, 

philosophy, or fatality, he had been able to smother his grief, to 

summon his best men, and come out with all that pomp to invite 

and escort us to his camp, to prepare this reception for us without 

ever letting us suspect a. trouble; and he and the brothers 

and the lover were the most prominent and attentive to our 

comforts and amusements. I then learnt that the Bedawi of this 

encampment were dying in their tents of fever, like the others, 

though they were in the purest air. So I got out the medicine 

chest, and performed the same offices for them that I did for 

Hadi Abd Allah's encampment. 

Our next move was to Mejdel Esh Shems, in the district 

called Iklim el Bellan, passing Birket er Ram, or Lake Phiala, 

a little round lake, of which more hereafter. Our cavalcade was 

large, and we had a splendid ride. l\Iejdel is a village beautifully 

situated, high up on the declivity of a mountain defile. It 

is a Druze stronghold, fighting and turbulent. We were, as usual, 

received and treated like relatives. Our next move was a ride of 

three hours over stony mountains to another mixed Druze and 

Christian village-c-Bayt Jenn-where we pitched our camp at 

sunset on a cold bit of ground. Captain Burton went to a house,


because it would have offended the Shaykh to refuse his hospitality. 

I always preferred the tents to the "stuffiness" of 8 

room. After supper I asked leave to return to my own quarters, 

and slept well, in spite of damp and wild dogs. 

The women here wore antique earrings of gold and stones, and 

many-coloured beads and coins. The head was covered by a fez 

or tarbush, and to it were attached long, black, silken braided 

plaits, to look like hair, ending with knots and piastres and 

chains below the waist. It looked very nice, especially on a 

pretty girl or a young child. Whilst here we received an invitation 

to a Druze wedding at Arneh, only two hours farther, a 

village at the foot of Jebel esh Shaykh (Mount Hermon), and 

just above which rise the sources of the Awaj, which waters EI 

Kunayterah. Captain Burton went off a different way. Whenever 

we separated, the object was to get information of both routes to 

our meeting-place, and thus to save time and to learn more. On 

meeting we used to join our notes together. 

Shaykh Hamad and I and others did our work very leisurely, 

walking and riding, and after two hours we descended a steep, and 

beheld Ameh in a hollow at the foot of Hermon. From afar we 

could see and hear the festivities. It was the marriage of the 

Shaykh's daughter. All the fighting men came out of the village 

with guns to meet me, and we came in for a very gay affair. 

Firstly, all the surrounding Druze villages, about ten in number, 

arrived by troops, and each was received with honour. The 

different costumes and coloured dresses were very interesting. 

We had dancing in the open air, and then some wandering 

mountebanks performed, Next the bridegroom, a boy of fifteen, 

was carried by two men, who made a eat's-cradle with their hands, 

upon which he knelt, putting an arm round each neck. When 

the sword dance was over, I was invited to the bride's house, where 

all the harims were assembled. Every woman was dressed in her 

best costume and jewellery; all were singing, dancing, and snapping 

their fingers like castanets. The bride came to receive me 

very naturally, and with a modest simplicity. She was a pretty 

Druze girl of fifteen or sixteen. The long black hair fell down her 

back, surmounted by a red fez and silken plaits. She had on a 

Damascus embroidered jacket, a white silken skirt, showing the

Druze Wedding. 373 

, 

bosom and black bodice, a broad red belt, which descended behind 

like a modem pannier, or little tunic; Turkish trowsers of white 

linen, clasped at the ankle; a short black tight-fitting skirt surmounted 

them, covered with silver dangling things, 80 that 

whenever she moved she jingled like a charger in his trappings. 

The bridegroom was a small, plain boy in red boots, black 

tunic and surtout; purple waistcoat, a fez tied on with a silk 

bandanna, and a huge cotton comforter round his neck, 88 if he 

had a cold; in the girdle were a Tasbih, or Masbaha (Mohammedan 

rosary), and a dagger half a yard long. She was very 

picturesque, and though he W88 rich he decidedly had the best 

of it. 

The other women wore white veils and "wedding garments," 

which were over their ordinary robes, and were of bright and 

different colours. The men were a blaze of fezzes, jackets, silk 

belts, large trowsers, and boots, all 88 red as red could be. I 

need not say that there were no men in the harim, even the bridegroom 

was not admitted. 'Vhilst we were in the midst of our 

harim fun, the girls blew out all the lights, and we were left in 

the dark. The bride ran and threw her arms round me-for protection 

perhaps-and then commenced such a romping and screaming, 

and pinching and pulling one another about, like school-girls. 

This was evidently considered a great frolic. Then after a few 

minutes they lit the C8ll(UeS again. At last the bride, robed in 

izar and veiled, mounted the horse en cavalier, and went round 

to pay her last visit to her neighbours. Coming back, the bride 

and the bridegroom met in the street, both parties from opposite 

directions. She stood up in her stirrups three times, but still 

veiled and covered, to show herself to the people; and he was 

carried between two men as before. Then we returned to her 

father's house, where she sat on a kind of raised dais in the fainting 

attitude which I have before described. Every few moments 

she slowly raised her hands to her veil, lowered it, showed us her 

face, and replaced it. After this had been done three times, she 

came down, and a space was cleared. The women sang to music, 

and she danced for us with great grace, and told us whole pantomimes. 

There was a brusqueness in her dancing equal to the 

Spanish women's, yet poetry and passion were there too. We all


know that Arab dancing can be made vulgar, but it is only the 

low who do this, to amuse their fellows; and this girl's dancing 

was beautiful. 

I was curious to see how they would comport themselves 

towards each other if the pair were allowed to meet, and thought 

it a pity that the bridegroom should not see her to such advantage. 

I do not think that Druze or Moslem wives dance before 

their husbands after marriage, so I asked if it might be allowed 

on account of my being there. This great privilege was conceded; 

the bridegroom was allowed to come into the harim and 

to see his bride dance. She modestly went up and kissed his 

hand, and then, averting her face, they never looked at each other 

again. I could see that she was glad of the chance of showing 

herself to advantage before him; but, dancing with a handkerchief 

in either hand, she always contrived to hide her face from 

him. He returned in about an hour to his father's house and 

men friends. 

At midnight we formed a procession to take her to her bridegroom's 

house, with music, singing, dancing, snapping of fingers, 

and loud cries of "Yallah! Yallah!" which lasted till 2 a.m, 

Then the harim proceeded to undress the bride. We were up all 

night, watching, and joining different branches of the festivities. 

Eastern domestic usages appear to us very public, even in the 

most private matters. The greatest fun seems to be preparing 

the bride for the wedding, which lasts several days, perhaps a 

fortnight. The Turkish bath, the diet, the plucking of the eyebrows, 

the henna, and the hosts of cosmetics, are studies in which 

the harim takes the greatest delight. Old women are always 

employed in these matters, and it is wonderful how they can 

have learnt or imagined all they know. 

The next day the bridegroom paid us his farewell visit at a 

very early hour. We set out again, and breakfasted at a small 

Druze village, Rimeh, where it was very cold, with wind and rain. 

We found in a stable a stone with an inscription, which Captain 

Burton thought worth a visit. We then had a mountain ride, and 

arrived at Bukkasim, a small settlement on the borders of the 

Druze territory. Here our escort were to take leave of us, and one 

of the Shayhks, as fine a specimen as could anywhere be seen, ex-

Homewards. 375 

pressed their universal sorrow, What would be almost a love speech 

in Europe, is in their language only an honest and affectionate 

expression of good fellowship; it is said between man and man, 

and before a whole tribe. "Allah be with you and your house," 

they said to me when they kissed my hand; "I would we had 

never seen you, for the sake of this parting. If you loved a stone 

I would put it in my bosom, and if you hated the moon I would 

not sit under its rays." This meant, in our prosaic tongue, " Your 

enemies are our enemies, your friends our friends." As we rode 

away I could see them for three-quarters of an hour, standing on 

a high rock to watch us out of sight, one or two of them with 

their faces buried in their mare's necks. These are the manners 

that make Europeans seem boorish and cold. 

Jendell is perched on a height, and we had a dreary ride over 

never ending hills, and finally reached the skirt of the Damascus 

plain, EI Ghutah, Katana is a Moslem village, with a brook and 

trees, a little patch of verdure, surrounded by far-stretching 

wastes. We took our siesta by the water, and were sorry to be 

out of the Druze country. 

We now had three hours' gallop, without drawing rein, over 

the barren plain, which brought us to Mizzeh, the village I have 

before mentioned as being on the borders of the Damascus oasis, 

with one side looking on the sand. 

There I lost Kubbi, my donkey, who was running loose like a 

dog. We constantly passed caravans outward bound, and as I 

never looked after him I did not miss him. He probably recognized 

some old friend in a passing troop, and turned to follow. 

Our Afghan Kaww888 tracked him, and brought him back next 

day, though the man who had taken possession of him did not 

want to give him up under £20. No matter what Mohammed 

had to do he did it thoroughly. If Captain Burton wanted a 

culprit that had run away, he said, "Bring me 80 and so, 

Mohammed! " "Eywallah, ya Sidi Beg!" (" Yes, by Allah, my 

Lord Beg!"); he would go off saying, "If he were in Jehannum 

I will have him out." Once he brought a man struggling and 

kicking under his arm, and put him down before his Consul, 

saying, "There he is, your Excellency." 

We reached Mizzeh with burning eye-balls, and throat, chest,


lips and tongue parched with feverish thirst. You who hunger 

and thirst for a face you love, think you behold it, and you may 

form. some idea of the sensation of gliding out of the furnace of 

the waste into cool shades and bubbling waters. Myhouse seemed 

a palace, and my welcome was warm. 

2nd of November was the usual day of settling, unpacking, 

paying off troops of camels, mules, donkeys and hired horses, of 

cleaning weapons and saddlery, of drawing horses' shoes, of bran 

mashes, and of littering the stables with soft bedding. Kubbi 

now relieves guard, and does the town work. 

END OF VOL. I.

isabel/1875-The Inner Life of Syria, Palestine and the Holy Land ...

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