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Notes on rigging of Optimists - the Aberdeen Boat Club

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Paddle or preferably a Praddle. The<br />

latter allows <strong>on</strong>e handed paddling. Must<br />

be tied <strong>on</strong>, but still able to be used <strong>on</strong><br />

both sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Opi.<br />

Burgee Clipped to <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mast.<br />

Most people can’t sail without <strong>on</strong>e.<br />

Mast tie down<br />

A rope is recommended. If using a peg<br />

system <strong>the</strong>n ensure it works. If <strong>the</strong> mast<br />

comes out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mast step during a<br />

capsize <strong>the</strong>n it could rip out <strong>the</strong> mast<br />

thwart (1) when <strong>the</strong> boat is righted.<br />

Painter<br />

One floating painter 9m l<strong>on</strong>g for<br />

towing.<br />

It should be securely tied to <strong>the</strong> mast<br />

thwart or mast step (2). This painter<br />

should have a loop in <strong>the</strong> rope<br />

approximately 60 cm (2 feet) forward <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> mast.<br />

9 i j k<br />

Buoyancy tanks<br />

Need buoyancy bags or equivalent<br />

inside and means <strong>of</strong> draining<br />

Daggerboard<br />

Shockcord for normal sailing.<br />

Retenti<strong>on</strong> line: to stop daggerboard<br />

falling out when capsized, but it must be<br />

quick release to enable a fast tow to be<br />

secured or removal by some<strong>on</strong>e outside<br />

<strong>the</strong> boat.<br />

Boom to mainsheet c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong><br />

Boom strop should be <strong>of</strong> kevlar or<br />

dynema rope and very tight. The<br />

maximum gap, ie at mainsheet positi<strong>on</strong>,<br />

should be less than 100mm. Add a<br />

separate loop around both <strong>the</strong> strop and<br />

boom at <strong>the</strong> mainsheet positi<strong>on</strong>: this<br />

stops a head filling <strong>the</strong> hole and helps<br />

c<strong>on</strong>trol <strong>the</strong> gap.<br />

Mainsheet<br />

A lockable snap shackle is to be used to<br />

secure <strong>the</strong> mainsheet to <strong>the</strong> boom.<br />

These are useful for towing, lee shore<br />

landings and general <strong>on</strong>-shore use. It<br />

must be a pist<strong>on</strong> type snap shackle - a<br />

spring loaded jaw type is not allowed<br />

because <strong>the</strong>se have snapped <strong>on</strong> to<br />

buoyancy aids when <strong>the</strong> child has<br />

capsized. Very dangerous!<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>Notes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>rigging</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Optimists</strong><br />

Bailer Large capacity. Tied <strong>on</strong> with a<br />

2-3m rope to enable it to be used whilst<br />

sailing.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

Toe straps<br />

Use shockcord to keep<br />

<strong>the</strong> toe straps tensi<strong>on</strong>ed<br />

and clear <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

bottom. This makes<br />

<strong>the</strong>m easier to get feet<br />

underneath. It also<br />

means <strong>the</strong>y give so<br />

you d<strong>on</strong>’t trip over<br />

<strong>the</strong>m so easily.<br />

Buoyancy bags<br />

Need 3 straps to secure<br />

<strong>the</strong>m properly. Straps<br />

should be secured to<br />

bottom <strong>of</strong> hull, not to <strong>the</strong><br />

gunwale (3). This keeps<br />

<strong>the</strong> bags lower down and<br />

makes <strong>the</strong>m more effective<br />

Make sure <strong>the</strong> bags are<br />

fully inflated.<br />

Watch out for mice eating<br />

buoyancy bags if your Opi<br />

is stored upside down.<br />

4<br />

Clew outhaul<br />

D<strong>on</strong>’t fit outhaul<br />

cleats where <strong>the</strong>y<br />

can hit a head.<br />

Rudder<br />

Needs retaining clip to<br />

stop rudder falling <strong>of</strong>f<br />

when capsized and<br />

lifting <strong>of</strong>f when sailing<br />

or grounding.<br />

Pintles (4): <strong>the</strong> lower<br />

<strong>on</strong>e should be l<strong>on</strong>ger and<br />

locate in <strong>the</strong> gude<strong>on</strong> (4)<br />

(hole) 1cm or so before<br />

<strong>the</strong> top <strong>on</strong>e. This makes<br />

it a lot easier to fit <strong>the</strong><br />

rudder.<br />

Date 14/11/03 Page 1 File Rignotes.doc


Knots<br />

All sail ties Reef knots<br />

End <strong>of</strong> all ropes Figure <strong>of</strong> eight<br />

Thin to thick rope Sheetbend (single or double)<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>Notes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>rigging</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Optimists</strong><br />

Shockcord to shockcord Sheetbend (pulled very tight) or fishermans bend<br />

Shockcord to rope Double sheetbend with loop in shockcord<br />

Painter to boat Bowline, do not put a figure <strong>of</strong> eight in <strong>the</strong> free end, make sure <strong>the</strong> end is well sealed by burning.<br />

Mast securing rope reef knot, it must allow <strong>the</strong> mast to rotate and also tight enough to restrain <strong>the</strong> mast.<br />

Knots in sprit rope C<strong>on</strong>sider whipped eyes to reduce bulk, o<strong>the</strong>rwise use bowlines<br />

All permanent knots Use bowlines or sheetbends (single or double). Never use reef knots.<br />

Ropes<br />

These must be thick enough to jam correctly in <strong>the</strong> cleats. For clam cleats; 8 plait or 3 strand works well. For V cleats; <strong>on</strong>ly<br />

use 3 strand.<br />

Main sheet Usually 8mm 8 plait with a s<strong>of</strong>t covering.<br />

Boom strop 4/5 mm kevlar or dynema, this must be tight with no stretch. Wire is not recommended as it w<strong>on</strong>’t give if it<br />

hits your child when gybing, or starts fraying.<br />

Sprit c<strong>on</strong>trol 5/6 mm kevlar or dynema, wire can be used for part attached to <strong>the</strong> sprit<br />

Setting up <strong>the</strong> sail for average c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

Attach all sail ties. Adjust top diag<strong>on</strong>al tie so that <strong>the</strong> top mast tie runs normal to <strong>the</strong> mast (not at an angle).<br />

Put <strong>the</strong> mast in and attach <strong>the</strong> boom and kicking strap.<br />

Put <strong>the</strong> sprit in but d<strong>on</strong>’t tighten yet<br />

Put <strong>the</strong> boom height c<strong>on</strong>trol rope <strong>on</strong> and adjust until <strong>the</strong> luff is just tight.<br />

Adjust <strong>the</strong> kicking strap by just removing <strong>the</strong> slack, do not over tighten.<br />

Adjust sprit: tighten until a diag<strong>on</strong>al crease appears in <strong>the</strong> sail. Pull in <strong>the</strong> sail and <strong>the</strong> crease should just about disappear.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r points<br />

If you are worried about a sore head from boom c<strong>on</strong>tact, <strong>the</strong>n you can fit pipe lagging to <strong>the</strong> boom.<br />

See <strong>the</strong> IOCA log book for more details <strong>of</strong> terminology.<br />

General<br />

If in doubt please ask, but please note that <strong>the</strong> instructors may be busy with organising rescue boats, children, activities (or<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir own children). So you will have to try and catch <strong>the</strong>m at a slack time or ask some<strong>on</strong>e else.<br />

Please note that Optimist sail adjustment is an art form, most o<strong>the</strong>r dinghies are a doddle in comparis<strong>on</strong>, so you w<strong>on</strong>’t be <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>on</strong>ly <strong>on</strong>e having problems.<br />

It is a good idea to look carefully at several o<strong>the</strong>r good boats (usually <strong>on</strong>es in <strong>the</strong> racing fleet) and ask experienced parents<br />

before making any changes.<br />

Join IOCA, to get <strong>the</strong> IOCA log book and a magazine. The club uses <strong>the</strong> IOCA scheme, not <strong>the</strong> RYA scheme which is slightly<br />

different<br />

Books Beginners - Sailing for Kids by Gary and Steve Kibble, Fernhurst Press (was The Prudential book <strong>of</strong> Sailing, A<br />

Guide for Young People.)<br />

More advanced - Optimist Racing by Phil Slater, Fernhurst Press<br />

Date 14/11/03 Page 2 File Rignotes.doc


Rigging<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>Notes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>rigging</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Optimists</strong><br />

These notes are for beginners and intermediates, racing setup is different.<br />

The five corner ties take a lot <strong>of</strong> load and must be <strong>of</strong> good quality rope. Failure <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ties may result in a torn sail.<br />

For all <strong>the</strong>se main ties use 2 turns <strong>of</strong> 2mm dynema. Using 2 turns gives better c<strong>on</strong>trol <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tightness at each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ties. The<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r mast ties should be just tight, with a slight gap between sail and mast. The boom ties should allow a slight gap between<br />

sail and boom.<br />

throat<br />

luff<br />

tack<br />

The two tack ties, ie bottom corner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

sail to <strong>the</strong> mast and bottom corner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

sail to <strong>the</strong> boom must be tight.<br />

The top tie needs to be tight.<br />

The top diag<strong>on</strong>al tie must be<br />

adjusted such that <strong>the</strong> top tie<br />

will not jump <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

mast and so that <strong>the</strong> black sail<br />

mark is between <strong>the</strong> 2 mast<br />

black bands.<br />

Black bands, see top diag<strong>on</strong>al<br />

tie.<br />

Sprit c<strong>on</strong>trol rope. Tight<br />

enough to put a diag<strong>on</strong>al crease<br />

in <strong>the</strong> sail which disappears<br />

when <strong>the</strong> sail is pulled in fully.<br />

Sail ties. Just tight <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> mast,<br />

slightly loose <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> boom.<br />

Boom height adjusting rope.<br />

This is used to stop <strong>the</strong><br />

outboard end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boom<br />

lifting in str<strong>on</strong>g winds when<br />

sailing downwind and also<br />

c<strong>on</strong>trols tensi<strong>on</strong> in <strong>the</strong> luff.<br />

Kicking strap or boom vang.<br />

D<strong>on</strong>’t overtighten<br />

There should be a clew tie which must be<br />

tight. The clew tie is in additi<strong>on</strong> to <strong>the</strong><br />

clew outhaul. The clew tie helps to give<br />

extra head clearance under <strong>the</strong> boom, as<br />

well as leech c<strong>on</strong>trol<br />

Boom strop. This is used to stop <strong>the</strong><br />

boom bending too much in str<strong>on</strong>g winds<br />

to c<strong>on</strong>trol tensi<strong>on</strong> in <strong>the</strong> leech.<br />

Note: The maximum gap must be less<br />

than 100mm (4”). Fit a sec<strong>on</strong>d loop at <strong>the</strong><br />

block positi<strong>on</strong> to c<strong>on</strong>trol this.<br />

Date 14/11/03 Page 3 File Rignotes.doc<br />

foot<br />

clew<br />

Pist<strong>on</strong> Snap shackle to allow quick<br />

release <strong>of</strong> sail from mainsheet.<br />

leech

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