While mass-produced wines excel in accessibility and easy drinking, natural wines have won hearts with their unique character, authenticity and the notion that one is consuming something simpler, made in a traditional way without too much interference from modern technology.

It is difficult to pinpoint the origin of the natural wine movement.

Some say it began in the 1950s, in France’s Beaujolais region, where a group of winemakers found inspiration in the work and writings of Jules Chauvet, a French winemaking teacher, chemist and oenologist (one who studies wine and winemaking), who sought ways to make wine with fewer additives.

Cool red wine is not a crime: go with light and low-tannin, and chill out

And before that, towards the end of the 19th century, Georgian poet Ilia Chavchavadze wrote: “The true purpose of winemaking, its beginning and end, is to make wine naturally, following the process by which nature itself transforms grape juice into wine.”

It is akin to the everlasting battles between acoustic and electric, analogue and digital – those who get it, get it.

However, as alluring as it may sound, the definition of natural wine is rather murky.nterpretations.

“There’s no firm definition of naturalness – I think the best way of thinking about it is that all wine exists on a spectrum,” says Brett Goss, co-founder of Yatbui, a Hong Kong-based online wine boutique and wine event organiser.

“Supermarket, mass-produced wine will be at one end of the spectrum, and at the other end is completely natural wine [which is unadulterated fermented grape juice].”

“Another pillar of the philosophy is the idea of a minimal interference by technology,” Goss says.

Many commercial winemakers employ industrial techniques to varying extents during the fermentation and clarification processes, manipulating their product and artificially improving the quality of their wine.

“Natural winemakers try to minimise any interference using high technology and just stick to the basics, such as a de-stemmer, crusher and hydraulic press,” says Goss.

Yatbui, which promotes “free-spirited drinking”, does not exclusively sell natural wine, though about 75 per cent of its stock is organic wine, with most of that being on the natural wine spectrum.

“Globally, we’ve seen a trend shifting away from those really big, heavy styles of wine and into styles that are fresher, brighter and more fun,” says Goss.

“The ethos of natural wine resonates with young people. It’s a bit more fun and free, and it’s a more relaxed approach to wine rather than taking everything very seriously. People are tired of drinking things that are over-manipulated and overworked.”

1. La Cabane Wine Bistro

Since the establishment of its wine cellar, in 2010, on Central’s Shin Hing Street, La Cabane has been Hong Kong’s go-to place for natural, low-intervention, organic and biodynamic wines. It began with mostly French wines, but the selection has since expanded to include New World wines, particularly those from the southern hemisphere.

62 Hollywood Road, Central.

2. Terroirs by LQV

“In our wine shops and wine bars, we offer a selection of over 1,500 labels. Ninety-nine per cent of those are French and most are purchased directly from the [winemakers],” says Hugues Rondouin, director of LQV, who adds that more than 80 per cent of its stock is organic and “around 30 per cent is natural or very close to natural”.

3/F, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central.

3. ThinkWine

ThinkWine – as the name suggests – prides itself on being thoughtful with its selection of hand-picked wines. From snacking on French cheese to masterclasses and private dining, it offers a variety of wine-centric, curated experiences.

“We mainly focus on traditional wineries. We also pick small wineries producing their wines in particular terroir that characterises the originality of the grapes,” says Anton Belochkin, head sommelier of ThinkWine.

Belochkin clarifies that ThinkWine categorises its wines according to whether they are natural, organic, biodynamic or conventional. This strict method of separation makes the usually vague spectrum of natural wine much clearer for true wine nerds.

2/F, LL Tower, 2 Shelley Street, Central.

4. Vivant

Vivant – meaning “alive” in French – opened its doors in 2022 and boasts an intimate atmosphere and a dedication to showcasing wines of distinctive flavours that reflect their unique terroir.

8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central.

5. Shady Acres

“Our wine list is almost exclusively made up of small-scale artisanal producers where organic and sustainable farming practices [and production methods] tend to be the norm,” says Mike Watts, co-founder of Shady Acres, adding that about half of the venue’s wines have “distinctly ‘natty’ flavours, smells and colours”.

46 Peel Street, Central.

6. Blue Supreme

Since 2017, Blue Supreme has been known as Sheung Wan’s neighbourhood craft beer-centric gastropub, but it also has an interesting wine list, 90 per cent of which features natural and low-intervention wines, many of them from small-batch producers.

Compared with the other establishments on this list, Blue Supreme takes a more fun approach, focusing on alternative and more modern wines.

21 Tung Street, Sheung Wan.

7. Crushed

Crushed, a new casual wine bar and shop hidden among the slopes of Sai Ying Pun, is one of Hong Kong’s strongest advocates for small-batch and New World wines.

“The Old World has had a light shone on it for ages, especially in a city like Hong Kong. It’s our responsibility to be a voice for the otherwise under-represented,” says Camille Glass, co-founder of Crushed, who adds that almost all of the bar’s wines are low-intervention.

Just this month, Crushed relocated across the street from its sister venture, Brut, a neighbourhood haunt with a similar concept but a heavier focus on food.

Shop A, 6-8 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun.