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Often regarded as the ‘Queen of the Gemstones’, Pearls have always had a real aura of sophistication around them. One of the oldest gemstones in the world, pearls have a history that dates back to the days of Ancient Rome, where they were often regarded as a status symbol. The official June birthstone, pearls are symbolic of perfection and incorruptibility, so it's not hard to see why they have become somewhat of a staple in women’s jewellery boxes. But where do Pearls come from?
Read on to find out their origins, and the different types of pearls and to even browse some of our favourite pearl jewellery in Grahams’ range.
Where Do Pearls Come From Overview:
How Pearls Are Made
Unlike emerald, sapphire and other gemstones which form underneath the earth’s surface, pearls form in the ocean and are the only gemstone to come from a living organism. There are three types of pearl formations on the market today, they are natural, cultured and imitation. Crafted from a mineral known as calcium carbonate, a natural pearl is formed when a parasite or another type of irritant, works its way into the oyster, mussel or clam. As a defence mechanism, the mollusc will release a special fluid known as ‘nacre’ to coat the irritant and trap it. Over time, the nacre which has entrapped the bug will begin to harden. Eventually, the pearl will begin to take form. Cultured pearls undergo the same process as naturally formed pearls except for one distinctive difference. Instead of a parasite making its way into the mollusc, a bead or piece of shell which is referred to as the ‘Mother of Pearl’ is implanted into the organism by an oyster farmer. Naturally, the creature will register this bead or piece of shell as a threat and will release nacre as a defence mechanism. Imitation pearls are very similar to imitation diamonds in the sense that they are made from a completely different material from their natural counterparts. These stones are formed when a glass bead is dipped into a solution that is usually made from fish scales.
Different Types Of Pearls
Something that will come as a surprise to a lot of people is that there are at least eight different variations of pearls and not all of them are formed in the same way. Some are naturally occurring, others are cultured and then there are some which are completely man-made. Not to mention, there are some which only occur in freshwater while others are exclusively found in the ocean. So, what are the different types of pearls out there? Whether you’re shopping for that perfect pair of pearl earrings or browsing for pearl engagement rings even, the most common types of pearls you are likely to come across are freshwater pearls and South Sea pearls. However, there is also Keshi pearls, Mabe pearls, Tahitian pearls, Kasuminga pearls, Akoya pearls and simulant pearls.
Freshwater Pearls
One of the most popular pearl types among jewellery designers and shoppers, freshwater pearls are primarily found in lakes, ponds and quarries in and around Asia. Typically less expensive than seawater varieties, freshwater pearls are produced by Hyriopsis cumingi, Hyriopsis schlegeli, and Cristaria plicata mussels which are typically found in lakes or rivers in mainland China and Japan. The pearls produced by freshwater mussels are usually pastel shades of pink, peach, lavender or white, however, occasionally they will be dyed black-resulting in a blue-green to violet hue commonly referred to as peacock. Freshwater pearls are incredibly durable because they are “tissue-nucleated”, meaning that a small piece of donor mantle was placed inside the mussel as the nacre began to form. That donor mantle then disintegrates, resulting in a pearl that is almost 100% solid crystalline nacre. Freshwater pearls are also one of the more spherical varieties of pearls and rarely come in unique baroque shapes.
South Sea Pearls
Favoured for their size and their luxurious, satin-like texture, South Sea pearls are often referred to as the “Queen of the Pearls” because of their unique golden appearance and tremendous shine. Traditionally grown in the Pinctada maxima saltwater oyster and silver-lipped P. maxima oysters in the case of white South Sea pearls. South Sea pearls are one of the largest pearl varieties, generally ranging from 8 millimetres to 15 millimetres in size. Pearls of this variety are often limited to shiny gold and white hue which rarely undergoes treatment to change its appearance as this can impact its value. South Sea stones are primarily farmed along the North-coast of Australia and in islands around The Philipines. They are also perfectly round most of the time, which makes them one of the more expensive varieties of pearls-often ranging from as little as $200 to upwards of tens of thousands.
Kasuminga Pearls
One of the rarer types of freshwater pearls, Kasuminga pearls originate from Lake Kasumigaura and Lake Biwa in Japan which are both located northeast of Tokyo. While Kasuminga pearls are primarily known for their light pink and rosy hue, however, they also come in an array of colours including grey, purple, blue, yellow, orange and light brown. Cultured from a Chinese and Japanese hybrid mussel, Kasuminga pearls come in a myriad of shapes ranging from perfectly round and oval to semi-round and baroque. Sadly, you won’t find many Kasuminga pearls on the market today as their population has been steadily declining due to environmental factors such as water pollution. As a result, Kasuminga pearls are typically more expensive and highly priced in the jewellery community. However, this isn’t just because of their rarity, a lot of it has to do with their famed opaque-translucent exterior and their pearly lustre that features unique white streaks.
Akoya Pearls
Famous for their perfectly round body and their brilliant white, mirror-like lustre, Akoya pearls are a variety most akin to the classic white pearl such as the necklace adorned by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast At Tiffany’s or the pearl bracelets that your classy aunty would wear. And it is for this reason that Akoya pearls are a highly desirable variety. Cultured in saltwater from the Pinctada fucata martensii oyster which is native to the cooler waters of the Pacific Ocean, Akoya pearls are typically found in waters surrounding Japan as well as Southern China and Vietnam. Often dyed black, resulting in a rich, midnight blue hue, Akoya varieties are typically perfectly round, however, they will occasionally be found in baroque shapes. The most valuable Akoya pearls are the ones that are perfectly spherical as these are the ones that are considered the most traditional.
Keshi Pearls
Likely one of the more unique varieties of pearls out there, Keshi pearls do not form around a nucleus, which is a bead that helps form cultured pearls on oyster farms. As a result, Keshi pearls are pure nacre and do not possess the spherical exterior that is commonly associated with this unique gemstone and is often a by-product of pearl cultivation. They often arise spontaneously in the shells of the organisms that produce South Sea and Akoya pearls, essentially making them a pearl off-cut, albeit a very valuable off-cut. Instead, they are all a unique baroque shape with an incredibly high lustre which gives them a real contemporary look that is hugely popular among high-end brands, particularly Chanel, a brand known for their inclusion of pearl accents in their pieces. Ranging in colours from yellow gold to a silvery grey and white Keshi pearls are often smaller than their counterparts. Often their deposits are akin to the size of a poppy seed, hence why they are named 'Keshi' -a Japanese word meaning "poppy”.
Tahitian Pearls
Tahitian pearls are a pearl variety that is perhaps most known for their richly-coloured exterior that can range from a dark green and peacock colour to an eggplant, dove grey and charcoal hue with shimmering iridescent overtones. Only occurring in saltwater, Tahitian pearls are exclusively cultured from the Pinctada margaritifera saltwater pearl oyster which is farmed in tropical atolls and saltwater lagoons located in the islands of French Polynesia (hence their namesake). While they may look it, perfectly round Tahitian pearls are extremely rare and very valuable, and most of them are either free-form baroque or circled baroque but also very smooth. In order for a stone to be exported as a Tahitian pearl in the international jewellery market, it must have a minimum nacre thickness of 0.8 millimetres.
Mabe Pearls
A Mabe or blister pearl as it is sometimes called is a half pearl that is cultured from the Pteria sterna or rainbow-lipped oyster and the Ptera penguin oyster. Unlike other types of pearls that generally form in the bed of the oyster, Mabe pearls form on the side of the mollusc’s shell when a nucleus (usually made out of mother of pearl) is attached to it. This results in the organism depositing nacre over the nucleus as it would if it were placed on the bed. As its name suggests, the rainbow-lipped oysters that produce these pearls do so in a variety of iridescent shades ranging from rich pinks and greens to violet and midnight blue. Constantly, Ptera penguin oyster cultures Mabe pearls in more neutral tones including white, a light gold hue, silvery grey and even black. Mabe pearls often feature overtones of pink, green, and violet as well as blue iridescence. They are predominately cultured in the Ryukyu Islands of Japan, but also in Indonesia, Australia, the Philippine Islands, the Gulf of California, Mexico, and even New Zealand.
Simulant Pearls
Simulant pearls are as their name implies, and identifying them is crucial in knowing how to tell if pearls are real. Much like how moissanite and cubic zirconia are designed to resemble diamond jewellery, simulant pearls are man-made stones produced to resemble a pearl. Generally made up of glass, ceramic, shell or plastic to give them a smooth and shiny surface that looks and feels like a real pearl, simulants are designed to give the illusion of the real thing. Some simulants will even be covered in a special coating that mimics the shiny lustre and iridescence you will often find with some authentic pearl varieties. Although, one key difference between natural or cultured pearls and simulant pearls is their weight, with cultured and natural pearls being significantly heavier. And although people turn their noses up at these man-made stones, simulant pearls provide a stylish, affordable and vegan-friendly alternative to the real thing. So, it's not all bad. Unless, of course, you are serious about owning the real thing.
Our Favourite Pearl Jewellery
No longer restricted to stuffy formal wear, natural and cultured pearls are as at home in the office as they are on the dance floor. Discover some of our favourite pearl pendants, pearl bangles, pearl rings and more below.
Sitting effortlessly in the middle of the decolletage, this classic pearl and diamond pendant will bring a level of sophistication to just about any look. Crafted from a timeless 14-carat yellow gold, you could rock this pendant individually or layer it with other gold necklaces in your collection for an edgier look.
Decorated with an array of round-cut diamonds, this stylish pearl ring is certain to bring some glamour to your ensemble. Featuring a contemporary yellow gold swirl setting, this ring is a real conversation piece and is potentially an alternative to the traditional diamond-centric engagement ring.
Styles may come and go, but a timeless strand of pearls will never be out of fashion. Reminiscent of the pearls Audrey Hepburn sports in the classic film, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, this long necklace features a collection of the highly sought-after freshwater pearls and is the embodiment of style and sophistication.
Elegant and simplistic, a pair of stud earrings is extremely versatile, and therefore they are a must-have item in any woman’s fine jewellery collection. When you want something that’s a little more pared back than a pair of sparkling diamonds, pearl earrings are the perfect compromise. With their 14-carat yellow gold setting, these cream freshwater pearl studs are the ideal everyday piece.
