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Slick-backed hair has evolved through the years: You can still wear it like a stock trader, or opt for a more casual-cool, less shiny finish. (Same idea, less slick.) Regardless of your intent, we wanted to know how to get long-lasting, good-looking results every time. So we sought the expertise of Gregorio Ruggeri, owner and lead stylist at Salon Ruggeri in NYC.
Before we get into a step-by-step tutorial, as well as product recommendations (for different hair types, and different hold + shine finishes), here are a few general tips from Ruggeri on how to slick back your hair—and how not to do it.
Hair should be towel dried.
Gently rub out the bulk of the water from the shower, but style it quickly thereafter. Don’t let it air dry any further.Always style clean hair.
If you’ve got remnants of yesterday’s product, or if your hair is the least bit greasy, you’ll compromise any effectiveness. “The greasier the hair, the flatter it will become and the quicker the slick look will become undone,” Ruggeri says. So, start by shampooing it.Finish with a conditioner to restore hydration and stylability.
Or if you prefer not to wash it every day (since over-washing can dry out the hair), then at least rinse it with conditioner prior to styling. This will give you a clean, soft canvas for the rest of the process.
GQ’s pick for best shampoo and conditioner:
Do not overdose on the product.
Start with a dime size if you aren’t sure how much to use. At most, you should not exceed a penny-sized portion. Anything more will start to look “dusty,” as Ruggeri calls it.Use a wide-tooth comb.
A wide-tooth comb will prevent tugging and pulling and is more effective at detangling than a standard comb. Many combs come with two widths—the wide-tooth one is, obviously, the one with wider teeth and gaps.
GQ’s pick for best comb:
- Comb it with its natural part.
Otherwise it’ll start to fight its way back, or look somewhat off to the trained eye. “It’ll look like a comb over if you force it the wrong direction,” Ruggeri says.
How to Style Slicked-Back Hair
Follow these steps to get the perfect slicked-back hair.
Start combing from the ends, not the root.
“If you start straight at the root, you will yank your hair and probably pull some out in the process,” Ruggeri says. So, coach it into place from the ends, and then go into the roots when it requires less tugging.Let it rest.
Once your hair is combed in the general direction you prefer, let it sit for a few moments, while you tend to your skincare or shaving regimen. By now your hair should be 50/50 damp/dry.Pick your product.
The list of products below provides a good array of hold and shine, as well as different options that benefit different types of hair. Overall, Ruggeri likes paste best, or a paste and gel blend for higher hold and medium shine. (And remember the above rule: start with a dime-size amount, but don’t exceed a penny-sized.)Gently pat the product into the outer layer of your hair.
Unlike many other hairstyles (typically more voluminous, texturized ones), you don’t want to target the roots on the first pass. So, don’t massage it in just yet. Let the product settle for 15-20 seconds.Then distribute the product evenly.
Run your hands through your hair, to massage the product all the way through. “If this is slightly difficult or your fingers are catching, there is not enough moisture,” Ruggeri says. “To fix, simply run your hands under warm water and then pat your hair. This will make it easier to distribute product and get a good comb through.”Comb everything straight back.
Next, take the comb and run it straight back from your forehead. “You will see where your hair wants to go, whether to the left or the right,” he says.7. Comb it into its final place.
Follow that natural part, and comb it back into its resting place.Don’t touch it!
Once it’s in place, refrain from touching your slicked-back hair. The more you touch it, the less slick the result. “Your hands get oily, so every time you touch your hair, you distribute a little more oil that will break down the products,” Ruggeri says.Zap it with hair spray.
At this point, you can also finish with a light layer of hair spray (roughly eight inches from the head), if you want added control over the style.
The Best Products for Slicked Back Hair
As for the best hair stylers, you have a few options for the slick-back, depending on the amount of hold and shine that you want.
For high hold and shine, use gel
This isn’t the liquid cement of your childhood: It does the job without making you look like a junior Trump.
For high hold and no shine, use fiber
It can also be applied to dry hair for medium hold and piece-y, surfy texture.
For light-to-medium hold and high shine, use pomade
This gives you more of a modern-day Suits finish, instead of an old-school Mad Men slickness. (Less greasy, really.)
For medium hold and light shine, use paste
This gives you “touchable” hair that can be mussed up after work for a more Happy Hour-friendly style. (It also happens to be GQ readers’ favorite hair product.)
For light hold and medium shine, use oil
It’s is as good for your face as it is for your hair. But, applied to hair, it’ll give you a pinch of sheen with no grip whatsoever. This is a better bet for longer styles that won’t otherwise suffer from flyaways. It’s also good to mix with cream or paste for more added control + shine.
For light hold and light shine, use cream
Cream gives your hair the control and style you want, but will make it look as if there’s no product added at all.
For extra hold, use hair spray
Give your finished look a light layer of hair spray to restrict any movement (if that’s what you want; it doesn’t make as much sense if you only use a cream or oil). Point the spray eight inches from your head, to ensure that the style holds all day.
How to Slick Back Different Types of Hair
Here are a few suggestions for different hair types—since no two men will have the same results, based on density, thickness, and texture.
To slick back curly or wavy hair: Opt for a lightweight product, like paste, which will give you the right amount of control without compromising your texture. You probably won’t get the same effects as the straight-haired guys, but you can give yourself a nice modified version of the style. (Unless you relax and straighten it out first, à la Justin Timberlake.)
To slick back thin or thinning hair: Stick with something lightweight, to avoid any added strain on your hair. Again, pastes are typically a safe bet, since they are lightweight on application but that still provide enough hold. Creams will give you direction without hold, which might be a smart option for you, too.
To slick back thick, wiry hair: Have your stylist or barber texturize and thin the hair, which will allow it to lay flatter and cooperate with your styling. Use conditioner and leave-in hair masks to keep the hair hydrated and soft. Then, try something with higher hold, like gel or fiber, depending on the amount of shine you want. You can finish with a hair spray for added control.
GQ’s pick for best leave-in hair mask for thick hair:
More Tips for Slicking Back Your Hair
Think about context
Having slicked-back hair is a statement. Doing it in your casual clothes—or even your gym clothes—makes you look a little stodgy. It’s better to stick to formal occasions or a buttoned-up workplace.Try different products
In addition to a being a statement hairstyle, slicked-back hair can also read a little intense. (Which can be a good thing, when the context is right.) So, if you like the general look on yourself, it might be wise to modify it for different occasions. Use gel or pomade for really formal occasions. Use paste or fiber for more casual settings.Keep your edges clean
You need clean lines with this cut. That means you need to visit the barber once a month to keep a neat perimeter and neck.