"To put oud in a fragrance is not Hermès: it's a marketing approach to perfumery for those who follow the money," says Jean-Claude Ellena, the legendary French brand's in-house perfumer, with disdain. You can add celebrity endorsements and huge billboard campaigns to the trend-led ingredients you won't find at Hermès. The focus at the French luxury house is on scent, and it makes its own rules.
It's a strategy that works: this year Hermès generated £3.6 billion in sales, and owes much to its fragrances: in the Sixties Calèche (for women) brought in more revenue than the iconic Birkin handbags. Today, one in two items sold is fragrance. Unlike some of its competitors that have lost scents over time, Hermès also boasts a (near) perfect back catalogue in its Classic collection - so you will never find your beloved signature scent has been discontinued (every perfume fan's nightmare, surely?).
While Hermès was founded in 1837, it didn't really enter the fragrance game until Eau D'Hermès in 1951. It was inspired by the interior of a Hermès bag and composed by legendary nose, Edmond Roudnitska (the author of Dior's Eau Sauvage), so needless to say Eau D'Hermès is packed with exceptional, seductive leather notes.
Moving through the years Hermès released Calèche (1961), Equipage (1970), Amazone (1974), Bel Ami (1986), Rocabar (1998), Hiris (1999), and Rouge Hermès (2000) - all of which are still available.
Jean-Claude Ellena often revisits these classics - or "the old chaps" as he affectionately calls them. From Bel Ami came Bel Ami Vetiver, Rose Amazone from Amazone and now from Equipage he brings us Equipage Géranium. Perfumer Guy Robert created Equipage in 1970 - and the original is just that: a unique, rich, smoky ode to Seventies masculinity.
So how did Ellena approach reworking one of Hermès' seminal fragrances? "I tried to capture the smell a thousand times, a thousand times it escaped me. I took this perfume with me when I travelled."
Ellena finally settled on new interpretation with emphasis on the geranium, sandalwood and spicy clove accord, which makes it less smoky than the original and lends a floral, soapy cleanliness to it.
This is Hermès, so there is great attention to the detail in the packaging too. The Classic collection is identifiable by the caps shaped like polo player's hats and the individual illustrations by Philippe Dumas on the reverse of the label, visible through the glass. Fans of truly classic fragrance, old and new, will not be disappointed.
Geranium Équipage by Hermès, £80 for 100ml.
Available to buy now at Hermes.
