Beauty myths. They're tricky to untangle, especially those around hair growth. One you've probably heard growing up is that cutting your hair shorter will make it grow longer, faster. But isn't that counterintuitive, we hear you ask? As it turns out, cutting your hair may help to speed things along a bit, but not in the way that you think.
To really affect hair growth, the root (where hair sprouts from) has to be stimulated. While no hair cut will achieve this, regular trims ensure that your hair is the healthiest and strongest it can be – two criteria for seeing extra length.
Time to break up with frazzled strands.
“Cutting your hair won't make it grow faster," says Skye Edwards, artistic director Gielly Green, "but a regular refresh will keep strands healthier during that process as it prevents split ends from travelling up the hair shaft.” Something that is all the more important given the ends are the oldest part of your hair strand and have been subjected to years of wear and tear. Emma Vickery, creative director at Percy & Reed, agrees, adding: “breakage is the main cause of people saying, ‘My hair doesn’t grow past a certain length'.”
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It's also worth noting that hair naturally grows at a rate of 0.35 millimetres per day, which equals around 6 inches per year, according to research, so regular trims won't impact your hair growth journey too much.
But how often is too often for a hair cut if your end game is longer hair? And does your hair type make a difference? Ahead, your essential guide to cutting your hair for hair growth…
Sorting the facts from the fads.
How often should you trim your hair?
There isn't a one-size-fits-all time frame for how often you should cut your hair. That said, “you don't want to go longer than 12 weeks between trims when you are growing your hair,” says Skye. “Each time you get a trim, have no more than half an inch taken off. I have clients that have a couple of millimetres snipped away every eight weeks to keep their hair healthy.”
Although the need for a cut may not be as obvious as with straight strands, hair stylist Charlotte Mensah stresses: “Afro hair needs to be trimmed regularly every six to eight weeks. An obvious giveaway is curls that frizz rather than ‘hold’ at the ends of your hair.”
Your washday routine also makes a difference to split ends. “Avoid washing hair daily,” she says. “Shampooing too frequently can be drying to both strands and scalp so change your routine to once a week." When doing so, press and blot your hair and scalp with a towel, she adds. “This soaks up moisture from your hair and protects delicate strands in the process.”
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In addition, Charlotte says, a scalp massage every 10 days using the Manketti Oil Salt Scrub will provide much needed stimulation and remove any unwanted build-up, which can be the cause of slow growth and fall out.
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Fine hair is thinner in diameter and more prone to damage, which means a rigorous maintenance regime is needed to stop ends looks spindly. For this reason, Emma recommends frequent cuts every six to eight weeks.
While fine hair benefits from less heat styling, don't avoid a blow-dry altogether. Air-dry your hair up to 75%, then “blow-dry on a low heat and low speed setting,” advises hair stylist Adam Reed. This is because “hair can absorb up to 30% of its own weight in water, which makes strands stretch more and potentially causes them to snap,” he adds.
Bond builders such as Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector, K18 Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask and Living Proof Triple Bond Complex can also help as they help to repair existing damage and rebuild broken hair from within.
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Cropped hair looks more polished with freshly cut ends. Emma suggests booking in every four weeks to ensure your hair doesn't loose its shape while you grow it out. Those with a bob, however, can afford to stretch out the time between appointments. “Every 12 weeks is ample to keep the style in tact,” she notes.
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Remember, too, that boar bristle brushes can tear into the hair cuticle, increasing moisture loss, so opt for a gentle detangler such as the Act + Acre Detangling Brush, which uses double-length bristles for less tension.
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Signs that you need a trim
A surefire way to scupper your long hair plans is to book in for a hair cut once heat, colour and styling have already wreaked havoc. “If you leave it too long between trims you run the risk of your hair breaking and then having to cut off much more than if you had regularly trimmed your hair,” Skye notes.
These are the three tell-tale signs that it's time to book in with your hairstylist:
- The ends of your hair are frayed with a dry, crispy texture. “Split ends look very small to the eye, but can travel up to four inches into the hair, so I'd advise that you don't ignore them,” says Skye.
- Your hair tangles more easily. “If you're growing your hair, always brush from the bottom and work your way up,” Skye advises. “This stops you from brushing through tangles too harshly, causing strands to split in two."
- Your curl pattern loses its shape.
Sooo silky.
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Acting Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
