The Best Set Designs from New York Fashion Week

Jason Wu's Fall 2020 collection was all about romanticism. Inspired by Austrian painter Egon Schiele, Wu produced breezy and feminine ensembles in gauzy silk tool, celadon organza, silk charmeuse, and more. The runway served as an appropriately whimsical backdrop, with branchy piles of yellow and white flowers by Emily Thompson in which models carefully weaved through.

Like much of Anna Sui’s work, her latest collection was edgy, theatrical, and texturally-rich, channeling “nocturnal glam with a light gothic twist.” While models strutted down the runway in black vinyl dresses and puffy sleeved peignoir negligees, the glowing red runway cast a dramatic light upon the models, accentuating Sui’s inventive silhouettes and thoughtful use of materials. As the show went on, the glowing red turned to a pink/purple, then to neon green, and back to purple at the end. The exit of the stage was made to look like the interior of Anna Sui's living room, with sketches by Sarah Oliphant depicting a fireplace and mirror, bookshelf, and chandelier.

When Prabal Gurung decided his fall collection would pay homage to New York's creative visionaries, it only made sense for him to host his show on The Rainbow Room's beloved dance floor. As Colin Huggins played on a grand piano front and center, models made their way through—and around—the iconic circular space.

Amidst a candlelit setting in St. Bartholonew's Church, the Rodarte Fall 2020 show was all about contrast. While creative directors Kate and Laura Mulleavy noted that Francis Ford Coppola’s Dracula served as inspiration, models strutted down the runway in black lips and cheerful gowns, with a whimsical-yet-gothic backdrop to match. Piles of greenery topped with flickering candles and lights created a moody ambience; like the models were emerging from a forbidden garden and onto the stage.

Wes Gordon's Fall 2020 collection, which played into his love affair with bold color and striking silhouettes, required little in terms of background drama. His choice to host the Carolina Herrera show at The McCourt at The Shed was appropriately spare. Gordon kept the attention on the ensembles, while providing a perfect setting for the show's finale, as models emerged in an orderly fashion, spreading out across the capacious white space.

At Monse's Fall 2020 show, the production team designed a set with bald lightbulbs hanging from the ceiling, creating a beautiful illumination against the raw concrete space. Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim described their work as “happy punk,” with a spare-yet-striking atmosphere to balance the collection's intense, almost rebellious nature.