The old city of Mardin sits upon the southern slope of a steep hilltop overlooking the Mesopotamian plains in southeastern Anatolia, close to the Syrian and Iraqi borders. Once a Roman citadel, the city was rebuilt in medieval times using local limestone. Although the steeped terrace houses remain from this period, many of them are now adorned with Turkish, Assyrian, Kurdish and Arab architectural features, acting as a constant nod to the region's diverse population. The monuments of the city vary too; ancient madrasahs, mosques, churches and monasteries are scattered throughout the province of Mardin, some of which are protected by a UNESCO-tentative listing.
Whilst you may be tempted to check ancient sites off your list at speed, taking time to pause and enjoy the simple day-to-day in Mardin will help you to better understand the character of the city. Take a transportative morning walk through the crooked alleys of the city where street vendors gossip as they tout their wares, steam rising from kettles set upon their stalls as pots of tea continuously bubble and the soft clop of mules’ hoofs sound through the streets as the animals navigate streets that are too narrow to be reached by trucks or cars, their backs laden with rubbish. As you make your way closer to peak of the hilltop, Kurdish music can be heard drifting from rooftop terraces and balconies where locals play endless games of cards. With so much to take in and explore, here are some of our favourite things to do in and around Mardin.
1. Grand Mosque Mardin
The towering minaret of the Grand Mosque, also known as the Ulu Camii, dominates the skyline of Mardin. From the terrace cafes and rooftops of the city, the soaring structure reigns supreme, arching over the compact limestone houses below. As you make your way through the enshrouded pathways of the old bazaar towards the mosque, its minaret still manages to vie for your attention, occasionally jutting out from the skyline in these otherwise cloaked avenues. Upon entering Ul Camii, visitors will be greeted by a sweeping courtyard and Artuqid architecture thought to date back to the twelfth century. Venture through, hunting down ancient Artuqid inscriptions, wooden carvings and views over the Mesopotamia plains.
2. Old bazaar
Nestled in the centre of Mardin’s old city, the historic bazaar stretches through a labyrinth of narrow lanes. A wrong turn will force you up sharp inclines, where quiet alleyways are enveloped by golden limestone buildings inscribed with ancient carvings and dancing sunlight. Stalls are laden with a range of regional goods, including pistachio oil soap and handmade woollen sweaters made using the mohair from local Angora goats. Follow your senses when you start to feel peckish, sniffing out simmering lamb kebabs and freshly baked flatbreads. If, like me, you have a tenacious sweet tooth, try some of Mardin’s süryani çöregi. Best accompanied with a cup of Turkish tea, these Assyrian pastries are stuffed with dates and spices before being rolled in toasted sesame seeds.
3. Kasimiye Madrasah
Visitors are forced to trample through a web of cobbled streets in order to reach the Kasimiye Madrasah, which is located towards the top of the hill that the city is built upon. At this vantage point the madrasah captures the sun's golden beams, illuminating the weathered sandstone facade of the site and revealing carvings from scholars who once passed through its gates. Follow in their footsteps, crossing the courtyard and through the arched doorways of the Islamic college as you make your way up to its rooftop. From here, the pleated domes of the madrasah add to the tapestry of traditional houses and vast plains of the Mesopotamia below you.
4. Deyrulzafaran Monastery
Founded in 493 AD, Derulzafaran is a Syriac Orthodox monastery located just outside of the old city. Sat on top of a nearby hill, the drive up to the monastery is a spectacle in of itself; the stone houses and minarets of Mardin loom in the distance as you venture deeper into the foothills of the valley, the sounds of nature and wandering goats replacing the chaos of the historic city centre. As you ascend once again into the cooler climate of the rocky hills, you can catch promising glimpses of the monastery ahead. Once a humble cave used by local disciples to worship in, the site is now a major religious centre for the Syriac Orthodox Church. Majestic staircases and stone archways welcome visitors into the confines of the monastery, where tour guides are on hand to provide insights into the ancient manuscripts and liturgical items on show. Whilst not as grand as the facade of the religious site, be sure to venture down into the cellars where sun worshippers originally gathered centuries ago.
5. Mardin Museum
Located in what was once Mardin’s Syriac Catholic Patriarchate, the city's main museum has all of the charm that can be expected from a nineteenth-century mansion. Limestone pillars, countless archways and intricately carved doorways hide a range of ornaments within their confines. The rich history of the city ensures that there is a myriad of artefacts to see, including tools from the Bronze Age, Roman diadems and ancient Ottoman coffee sets (mırra). Be sure to ask about their workshops for a greater insight into local coin minting, natural dying and Turkish marble art practices (known as Ebru art in the region).
6. Day trip to Midyat
Within the province of Mardin lies the town of Midyat. Renowned for its well-preserved traditional stone houses, ancient churches and old bazaar, the town carries much of the distinct historical charm of Mardin without the characteristic chaos of a large city. Inside Midyat, hidden archway entrances give way to sweeping courtyards, where locals while away the afternoon smoking sisha and drinking tea. Through the town's cobbled streets lies a maze of market stalls, with vendors selling handmade silverware, textiles and carpets. Goats wander the streets, children chasing them back to their herds or to one of the farmers that routinely ferries the animals through the town. Whilst it is easy to get distracted by Midiyat's rituals of daily life, be sure to visit the tourist sites too. The Midyat caves, known as ‘Matiate’ meaning ‘City of Caves’, are considered to be the largest underground cave system in the world and are believed to have been refuge for 70,000 Christians during the Roman rule of Turkey. Other sites also include the Mor Gabriel Monastery, which is thought to have been founded in 397 AD, making it one of the oldest religious structures of its kind.
7. Panoramic views
Perched above the Mesopotamia plains, Mardin’s old city offers far-reaching views of patchwork fields, hidden olive groves and small villages. Escape the busy streets of the city and make your way up to the terrace cafes at Hanzade Kahvalti & Cafe, Seyr-i, and İnciraltı Kahvaltı Kaf. At these hidden vantage points, you will find the hum of the market and nearby traffic ebbing away, replaced only by the delicate chime of silver spoons tapping against china cups. As you take in the panoramic views, order a cup of the region’s menengiç kahvesi – an earthy drink deceptively labelled as coffee but in reality made from wild pistachios.
8. Dara Mesopotamia
Dara Mesopotamia, a sixth-century Roman-Byzantine ruin, is located a short distance outside of Mardin’s city centre close to the Syrian border. Once a strategic East Roman fortress city, the region grew in importance during the Roman-Persian conflict. Now, these northern Mesopotamia ruins feature a range of fascinating architecture from bygone times; ancient cisterns, crumbling ornate pillars and burial grounds remain at the site. Small archways within the terracotta facade of the land reveal alcoves inside the hills. Here, within the miniature cave houses cut into the rocks, visitors can see the dwellings of bygone civilisation.
9. Kurdish, Arab, Assyrian and Turkish food
The diverse history of Mardin has given way to a range of dishes unique to the region, with Kurdish, Arab, Assyrian and Turkish influences all playing a part in their creation. At Bagdadi’s terrace overlooking the city, visitors can sample Arab and Turkish mezze, savouring a mix of hummus, muhummara and spiced olives alongside a glass of Assyrian wine. For the main course, traditional Turkish dishes, such as adana kebabs, are served besides regional options. I would recommend that first-time visitors opt for the kara erik kababi, a delicate lamb dish made with black plums and pomegranate sauce. Other noteworthy restaurants to visit include Leli Muse Mutfak and Hamdani.