A Dermatologist-Approved Skincare Routine for Adult Acne

Adult acne is so overwhelming. Not only are you battling breakouts, but you're also experiencing the signs of aging—including loss of moisture and fine lines. So the skincare options, "solutions," and suggestions can feel contradictory at best and downright stressful at worst.

To help navigate the best products, tips, and routines for treating acne-prone adult skin, we spoke to two top dermatologists—Brendan Camp, MD, and Arash Akhavan, MD, FAAD—for their expert advice, and had them walk us through an easy, everyday skincare routine. Read on for more.

What Is Acne?

By its simplest definition, acne is a common skin condition occuring when the oil glands get clogged with excess sebum, leading to pimples and cysts.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), it's the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting up to 50 million Americans annually, and approximately 85 percent of people between the ages of 12 to 24 experience at least minor acne. Thankfully, there are options to care for and treat even the most stubborn, severe cases.

Acne Causes and Treatments

"Clogged pores, excessive oil production, bacteria that trigger an inflammatory response, hormonal changes, and even diet can contribute to acne formation," Camp explains. Because of these varied causes, he says it's a "good idea" to develop an acne routine customized to your skin's needs. "While there may be no one-size-fits-all regimen, building a foundational skincare routine that can be modified to suit a person's needs is a good place to start," he says. Akhavan says to keep in mind that "not all acne treatment requires prescription products. A solid home skincare routine may be all you need to control milder acne." 

Consistency and routine are key for treating acne-prone skin, as is ensuring you're using the right products. Below are the doctors' recommendations for your morning and evening skincare routine:

Morning Skincare Routine

Cleanse

Akhavan advises those with acne-prone skin to cleanse their face twice a day. If you have oily skin, he suggests kicking off your morning skincare routine with an oil-free cleanser containing salicylic acid, such as Clearasil's Rapid Rescue Wash ($6), and "avoid using abrasive exfoliant sponges or brushes to minimize traumatic inflammation of the skin."

Tone (Optional)

"Using a toner is an additional step that helps remove extra oil and impurities from the skin as well as rebalance the skin's pH, which is normally slightly acidic (the ingredients in some cleansers may nudge the skin pH towards basic)," explains Camp.

Because some toners can be drying, if you have less oily skin, you may not need to use one. But if you do, he recommends La Roche-Posay's Effaclar Clarifying Solution Acne Toner ($17), which contains both salicylic acid (which flushes out pores) and glycolic acid to help remove dead skin cells that can clog pores and leave skin looking dull.

Treat/Medicate

The products used in this step may look different for everyone, but Camp says the morning is the ideal time to begin targeting new or existing blemishes. "Spot treatments help zero in on acne bumps with products that contain active ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and sulfur," he says.

He recommends Neutrogena's Rapid Clear Salicylic Acid Acne Treatment with Witch Hazel ($9) or La Roche-Posay's Effaclar Duo Acne Spot Treatment ($36), which contains 5.5 percent benzoyl peroxide, "which is effective for inflammatory acne like deep-seated stubborn lesions."

Moisturize

Moisturizing your skin is a crucial final step in your morning routine. Why? "Lipids, or fats, in the top layers of the skin help [moisture retention] and function, creating an impermeable barrier between your skin and the environment," says Camp. "Skipping this step could leave the skin dry, vulnerable to infection, or dull in appearance."

When selecting a product, he suggests looking "for the word 'non-comedogenic,' which means the product is less likely to clog pores and contribute to the formation of acne papules." He's a fan of Elta MD's UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 ($41) as well as Cetaphil's DermaControl Oil Absorbing Moisturizer SPF 30 ($28), which "has a slight mattifying effect helpful for those with oily skin."

Apply Sunscreen

Proper sun protection is a key step to maintaining healthy skin. Akhavan recommends using a sunscreen "with anti-inflammatory niacinamide in it;" he's also a fan of Elta MD's UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46.

Now you're ready to apply your favorite oil-free, mineral-based makeup, should you desire.

Nighttime Skincare Routine

Camp tells us "the best results come with consistency and compliance" and that simplifying your skincare routine will make it easier to complete—increasing the likelihood you'll repeat it each day and night. "Mirroring your evening routine after the morning routine is one way to accomplish that," he says.

Cleanse

"Washing your face in the evening removes oil produced during the day, as well as dirt, makeup, and other impurities you have been exposed to," says Camp.

He says those with more severe acne may want to stick with cleansers that contain active ingredients, while those with less severe acne can consider gentler alternatives or micellar water. "CeraVe has covered all bases when it comes to cleansers for acne-prone skin," Camp says. "It offers a hydrating cleanser for dry skin, a foaming cleanser for balanced-to-oily skin, and cleansers that contain benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid."

Tone (Optional)

If you've decided to add toner to your routine, you can apply it in the evening, too, for an extra-squeaky-clean feeling. Try Avéne's Gentle Toning Lotion ($22), which Camp says is a good option for those with sensitive skin or who need something to help calm irritation. He also recommends the Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner ($23) from Paula's Choice.

Medicate

Because not everyone needs or can tolerate acne medications applied to the whole face, how you medicate may look different from how another person with acne medicates.

Product recommendations are typically individualized, but a gentler option that Camp recommends is azelaic acid, derived from grains. "Azelaic acid helps to kill bacteria, exfoliate dead skin, and brighten the skin's complexion," he explains. He and Akhavan recommend The Ordinary's Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% ($11), the strongest concentration available without a prescription.

Camp says that while Retin-A is only available by prescription, "retinoids work to prevent acne by regulating or normalizing the process of cell turnover, which prevents blocked pores and the formation breakouts." Differin's Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment is an OTC-alternative worth checking out.

Moisturize/Apply Night Cream

As opposed to in the morning, your evening moisturizer or night cream should not contain SPF. Instead, look for moisturizers containing a retinoid derivative or hyaluronic acid, a humectant that attracts water molecules to the skin.

For more oily skin, Camp recommends Neutrogena's Hydro Boost Gel-Cream ($20). For clarifying hydration, he suggests the U.F.O. Ultra-Clarifying Acne Treatment Face Oil ($80) from Sunday Riley, a facial oil that "helps complement natural skin oils by further hydrating and smoothing skin."

Other Considerations

While this is the order of application the doctors tend to recommend to patients, some dermatologists recommend a general rule of applying your products from thinnest to thickest. ("I don't think that is a hard-and-fast rule," says Camp.)

For the most part, patients with acne-prone skin should probably limit the number of products they use, as too many products can cause skin irritation and aggravate acne or potentially block pores. And keep in mind that "no acne treatment works immediately or overnight," says Camp. He usually recommends that patients use a prescription acne product for at least 8 to 12 weeks consistently before deciding if it is or isn't helping (unless the product is causing skin irritation or a rash).

Camp adds that adult acne can also indicate a health condition, such as polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) which is "associated with irregular periods, facial hair, scalp hair loss, and weight gain." If you think your acne could be caused by an underlying condition, or if it isn't responding to over-the-counter treatments, make an appointment with a board-certified dermatologist.