RAMNAGAR, Karnataka – Mulberry silk production

The mulberry cocoons are sun-dried to kill the worms so that the moths do not pierce the cocoons and the unbroken filaments can be reeled. They are sold at the local market where sack loads of cocoons are bought by the spinning units. For reeling the yarn, the cocoons are first boiled in water for 3-4 minutes at 70-80 degreeC. This softens the hard shell and loosens the tightly woven filaments, making it easy to reel the silk. The boiled cocoons are transferred to a tray filled with water, which is maintained at 40 degreeC. They are then turned around in the water and the outer layer is gently removed till the continuous thread is discovered. There is one strand of unbroken silk filament wound around each cocoon, having a usable length of around 900 metres. Several silk strands (the number depends on the quality of yarn required) are twisted together to make the yarn.

The thickness of silk filament yarn is referred to as denier, the number indicating the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of filament yarn. For example, 9,000 metres of yarn weighing 15 grams would be 15 denier and 9,000 metres weighing 100 grams would be 100 denier. A smaller number would indicate a finer yarn. Silk has good strength and the filament can be stretched to about 20% beyond its original length before it breaks, but it does not immediately resume its original length when stretched beyond 2%. Silk loses strength over a long period of time without regular use and appropriate storage conditions, and tends to decompose with extensive exposure to sunlight, but is rarely attacked by mildew.

Silk is handspun from short lengths obtained from waste, pierced, damaged or broken cocoons, when the silk cannot be reeled. The waste from the cocoons is dried and then combed to create slivers that can be spun like cotton using a spindle. This spun silk has a unique matte lustre compared to the reeled mulberry silk.

Most of the units in Ramnagar use blended Chinese silk in the warp and a variety of local silks in the weft to create a range of assorted fabrics. The new air jet power loom needs a strong and sturdy warp as it beats the weft at high speeds above 360 times a minute, compared to conventional power looms that operate at speeds of about 150 to 160 picks (weft threads) per minute. The blended Chinese silk (which is not pure but mixed with other dyeable fibres) is highly twisted and is better suited for the stress of mechanised production but has altered the look, feel and character of the silk. The lustre of indigenous pure silk has a softer appeal compared to the imported Chinese blended silk that has a sharp sheen.

Over the last 30 years, there has been a decline in the Indian sericulture industry due to fluctuations in weather conditions, a failure to upgrade the quality of seed cocoons and to modernise processes. Allowing the import of cheaper Chinese silk has had a detrimental impact, for it has systematically disrupted the indigenous mulberry silk industry in India. From the early 1980s, China has flooded the Indian market with cheaper silk yarn. The Chinese government supports large-scale silkworm rearing in massive temperature controlled rooms, and all processes are mechanised to produce sturdy yarn for the power loom industry. China has been dumping the mechanised silk yarn at lower rates and has unsettled local silk production.

India continues to be the largest consumer of pure silk fabrics, but overall consumption has gone down due to various reasons. There has been a steep escalation in prices, making it unaffordable for many. Silk was considered a pure fibre and an appropriate fabric for religious rituals. Due to its rich lustre, it was also the fabric of choice for weddings and festivities. The market today is flooded with cheaper imitations, often passed off as pure silk, and it is difficult to differentiate between the pure and synthetic varieties. So people often choose the cheaper, synthetic options.