Whimsical and colorful, imparting a jolt of energy into interiors, ikat fabric is handmade using the ancient Indonesian technique of resist-dyeing yarns prior to weaving them to create a distinct, dynamic effect. While original, authentic ikat dates back 5,000 years, today the term “ikat” often is used to describe the pattern that’s created via the ikat process—a blurred effect that’s employed in textiles such as upholstery, bed and table linens, and window treatments, as well as in lampshades and wall coverings.
But what exactly is ikat? Why is it special? And what are the best applications for ikat in 2024? Read on to find out the intricacies of this unique dyeing technique; its interesting history dating back to prehistoric times; the cultural evolution of ikat from Central Asia, Northern Africa, South America, and Europe before finally being brought to Western civilizations; and how ikat patterns are translated today.
What is ikat?
The origin of word ikat is from the Malay-Indonesian verb “mengikat,” meaning to tie, knot, or bind, because of the resist-dyeing technique that’s used to create ikat patterns in fabric. What’s unique about ikat textiles is that the woven fabric is not dyed; rather, the yarn itself is resist-dyed before the ikat weaving—unlike other resist-dyeing methods such as Indonesian batik and shibori (Japanese tie-dye), in which the resist is applied to the woven cloth.
“Since technical ikats are hand-dyed and handwoven, there is a lot of human thought and touch that has gone into each and every one,” notes Caroline Price of Montespan Design in Kansas City, Houston, and San Francisco. “That’s what I love about them most. Their irregularity makes them interesting and very visually soft-focus to look at.”
Although ikat’s popularity has ebbed and flowed throughout the centuries, traditionally ikat was a way to demonstrate wealth. Because the ikat process is so time consuming and extremely skill-intensive, all done by hand, only the most affluent could afford textiles crafted using this technique. Traditional ikat was used for ritualistic occasions: meaningful ceremonies like weddings and funerals. And the status of the person with the ikat was denoted by the quality of the ikat—the higher the status, the more rich and intricate it was. It’s said that, when done via the traditional method, ikat could take a year or two to complete. However, when done commercially via modern technology, a simple ikat textile can be completed in a day.
How is ikat made?
The ikat technique involves binding together the loose threads using grass or wax-treated cotton to select where the dye will penetrate the thread and color the fibers and which sections of the thread will resist the dye and remain uncolored to create a pattern. Weavers must be thoughtful to decide where the dye should color the loose threads so that when the ikat fabric is woven on the loom, the pattern develops as planned.
There are three general types of ikat:
- Warp ikat is the most common method, and it involves resist-dyeing only the warp threads (the fixed threads that are attached to the loom).
- Weft ikat only resist-dyes the weft threads (the threads that are woven through the warp yarns).
- Double ikat is the most rare and complex method, as both the warp and weft threads are bound and resist-dyed; their designs create the overall pattern.
There’s also a variation of the double ikat style called “compound ikat,” which involves binding both the warp and weft yarns; however, their designs are independent of each other.
“Ikat textiles are unique because they are created using an incredibly laborious technique,” explains Rachel Doriss, textile design expert and design director at Pollack. “This process of binding yarns creates areas of resist during the dyeing process, which results in yarn patterning, before the weaving process even begins. Precisely repeating the binding and dyeing processes, one color at a time, yields a complex multicolored effect.”
The colorful history of ikat
It can be tough to pinpoint the exact origin of ikat, as some 30 countries have developed this technique independently over the centuries. We do know, however, that the oldest ikat dates back 5,000 years; the historical piece of art was in the Indian Odishan style and found in a Pharaoh's tomb.
Since the Middle Ages, ikat has appeared in South America in pre-Columbian Peru and Guatemala, in the Middle East in 10th-century Yemen, and in Asian countries of China, India, Indonesia, Japan, and Uzbekistan. Overall, ikat is considered to come from Central Asia and was traditionally woven with silk and colored using natural dyes.
In the 12th century, the wealthy city of Patan, Gujarat, India became renowned for its exquisite textiles, specifically the patola sari, which was a double ikat. Handmade with brightly colored silk yarns, these patola saris were highly valued, as they symbolized social stature.
The Dutch East India Company brought ikat from Asia to Europe via the Silk Road. There, it integrated into the cultures of France, Italy, and Spain. In 18th-century Mallorca, Spain, ikat developed into a distinct style that flourished among the wealthy; even as European production of ikat waned following World War II, Mallorca continued to evolve the tradition, lending the textiles unique flair that has been passed down for generations. Today, Mallorca remains one of the only regions in Europe to produce authentic ikat textiles via family-run businesses that have maintained the practice.
During the 19th century, the ikat tradition continued to evolve in various parts of the world. Japan embraced the ikat weaving technique and used it to create kasuri, textiles made with yarn that’s been dyed to create geometric patterns in the fabric. In 1856, the king of Thailand brought an exquisite Cambodian ikat cloth as a gift for US president Franklin Pierce, though the ikat trend did not truly gain momentum in the US until late in the 20th century. It’s said that Western collectors only began recognizing the value of these intricately patterned, decorative textiles after the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991. Fashion designer Oscar de la Renta is credited with shining a spotlight on the genre during his lifetime, as he commissioned weavers in Uzbekistan to create an abundance of ikat textiles for him. The designer incorporated ikat into his fabric collections from 1997 until his death in 2014.
Ikat in interior design today
“What I like most about ikat textiles is that they’ve really come to feel timeless,” expresses Robin Gannon of her namesake interior design firm. “They have that geometric aspect to them, and geometrics definitely had their time and place—they were hot in a particular era. To me, though, because of how they’ve come to be woven, ikats feel a little more historical, a little more timeless. They’re one of those things you can use at any time, really.”
The versatile patterns created by the ikat weaving technique lend themselves to a range of interior settings today. “The special yarn-binding technique used to make ikat fabrics results in blurred, feathered edges of shapes and patterns.… This blurred or watery edge creates soft, ephemeral designs that blend harmoniously with other textiles in a room,” says Doriss. “The pattern and design possibilities of these textiles are endless. From simple geometrics and stripes to more complex, multicolored designs, ranging from florals to damasks to abstract geometrics, the varied nature of these textiles make them applicable for any end use.” As one example, she points out the dramatic impact of pairing a vibrant, multicolored ikat curtain with dynamic stripes and textural upholstery.
Doriss adds that while authentic ikat employs the hand-dyed, handwoven technique, modern textile production can replicate the effect using screen, roller, or digital printing; the jacquard loom; or a technique known as warp printing, in which the warp (vertical yarns) on the loom are printed, instead of resist-dyed, before weaving.
Interior designer Amy Andrews sees ikat fabrics blending in seamlessly with a modern or traditional aesthetic. “Used as an accent or a statement in a home, an ikat fabric mixes well with texture and patterns to create a layered look,” she notes. “I love incorporating ikats in my designs to bring a special curated feel to a room. The pop of patterns and colors in an ikat textile add a timeless touch.”
New York–based interior designer Tina Ramchandani agrees, saying, “To me, ikat is a whimsical, fun pattern, typically in a variety of colors. We don’t use it often, but when we do it’s to add whimsy to a space.”
Obvious applications for ikat patterns are in pillows, upholstery, and window treatments, but these colorful designs work equally as well in lampshades, table linens, or even wall coverings.
“Ikat lends itself to relaxed residential styles, but the look of its soft, blurred edges also translates into a refined and stylish wall covering for commercial environments,” explains Marybeth Shaw, chief creative officer, design and marketing at wall covering manufacturer Wolf-Gordon. “Wolf-Gordon’s pattern, Purr by Dorothy Coronas, part of our Clair PVC-free wall covering collection, features leopard spots elegantly adapted into a subtle ikat overlay with textile embossing."
Price stresses, “When an ikat is the star element in a scheme, it can [feel] high-impact through its brilliant bold color combined with a large-scale design. Or ikats can be used as punctuations in a scheme when you consider them as works of art. I love them as lampshades!”
Catherine Ebert, owner of her DC-based design studio, agrees that ikat can be a wonderful way to introduce color and pattern aside from more traditional motifs. She says, “Ikat designs have intricate patterns often with figures and stories which lend a global, collected aesthetic to any space.” However, she cautions, “because it’s a lot of pattern, you need to think about the scale for your application.” She points out that pillows and drapery can support large-scale, lively patterns, for instance.
Likewise, Andrews mentions, “Ikat fabrics mix in well for an elevated curated feel; however, I do hold back from mixing with too many other bold patterns that may clash.” However, Fabricut design director Millie Hammond thinks that working ikat into interior design schemes can “add depth and vibrancy without overpowering a space.”
Hammond favors ikat because she says it’s “a testament to craftsmanship…. Always handmade and always slightly different from yard to yard, ikat is for that customer that wants a home rich in tradition and artistry.”
