The Best Sets from New York Fashion Week
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Staging Givenchy’s spring fashion show in New York (rather than its native Paris) was quite a statement. And doing it on September 11 was an even bigger one. But Riccardo Tisci’s presentation, set at dusk on Pier 26 in lower Manhattan and directed by performance artist Marina Abramović, couldn’t have been a more graceful tribute. The city’s new landmark—One World Trade Center—made for an excellent backdrop, as models glided across recycled building materials and roughed-up floors.
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Thom Browne took the back-to-school timing of New York Fashion Week to heart, creating a topsy-turvy one-room schoolhouse to host his spring collection that salutes Japanese schoolgirl style.
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Models sidestepped sculptural mounds of dirt by artist and architect Maya Lin at Phillip Lim’s spring presentation, a nod to his collection’s earthy hues.
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In their first fashion show at the reins of DKNY, Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne sent models into the belly of the whale—a.k.a. Santiago Calatrava’s World Trade Center transportation hub, just downstairs from the AD office.
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At the Rodarte show, set designer Bureau Betak hung colored fluorescent lights from the ceiling and wrapped them in vines, a fitting backdrop to the brand’s signature whimsy.
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Tommy Hilfiger made a splash (as always) this week with a beach babe–ready set lifted straight from Basil’s Bar, a legendary watering hole on Mustique, the Caribbean island where he vacations. Complete with a boardwalk, tiki hut, Technicolor seascape, and Basil Charles, the barkeep himself, the set was the perfect backdrop to a collection of crocheted bikinis and striped bucket hats (among other more wearable things) that felt as if it had never left the beach.
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Models marched through waist-high weeds along the High Line in Stuart Vevers’s first-ever runway show for Coach, devised by set designer Stefan Beckman. Sea grass and sand surrounded a gleaming metallic runway.
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For Monique Lhuillier’s spring collection, inspired by Ellsworth Kelly’s graphic, color-blocked artworks, set designer Andrew Ondrejcak devised a geometric backdrop of floating shapes that changed color throughout the show.
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Photo: Greg Kessler Studio9/10dam-images-set-design-nyfw-2015-new-york-fashion-week-sets-09.jpg
With a spring collection inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright, it seems only fitting that Opening Ceremony would collaborate with the architect’s foundation on an elaborate set that nods to his lush gardens and forward-looking designs.
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Marc Jacobs premiered his spring 2016 collection at the Ziegfeld Theatre—the Art Deco landmark on 54th Street—sending a troop of models dressed in stars and stripes down the aisles, among onlookers seated in red velvet chairs. A live orchestra up front tooted jazzy tunes, and, in keeping with the theme, popcorn and fountain sodas were served.
