Home School

How to Lay and Wave Your Edges With a Spooley, According to a Pro Hairstylist

Kahh Spence shares his quick tips for styling baby hairs in fun shapes. 
Ella Mai with wavy baby hairs and a side braid at the 2019 AMAs
Getty Images

All products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Our audience misses their stylists, derms, and manicurists as much as we do. Here, we bring experts straight to the Allure reader’s home for lessons on handling at-home beauty like a pro. This is Home School. Get ready to take notes.

With carefully finessed edges in delicate swoop and wave designs, hairstyles as simple as a high ponytail or sleek bob can quickly be transformed into a work of art for your next Zoom meeting. We asked hairstylist Kahh Spence, who does just that for singers Ella Mai and Kehlani, to share his go-to tips for how to lay down edges.

Before you even touch your baby hairs, you'll need two tools: a spooley brush and an edge-control product. Spence used to reach for a brush, but these days, he prefers a disposable spooley, like Morphe DS4 - Mascara Brushes. "It's easier to comb through the hair [with a spooley] because it's so small and used to define lashes, so why not use it on our baby hairs?" Spence explains to Allure.

For about two years, Spence has been a fan of OGX Natural Finish + Aspen Extract Texture Molding Paste for its matte finish. You can also try the Best of Beauty Award-winning Pantene Pro-V Gold Series Edge Tamer. (Allure editors also have other edge-control product suggestions, if you need them.)

One of the biggest mistakes people make when laying edges is picking an oil-based product, Spence says. If it's too oily, you can easily see it pooling along the hairline. The product may not be able to hold baby hairs down for long and may make them curl up as the day goes on.

Once your tools are ready, you can start sectioning out the baby hairs you want to lay down. Sometimes, Spence also gathers slightly longer pieces around the hairline, if he's creating a more dramatic look, but he warns against cutting your hair to create shorter, baby-like hairs.

Starting from the temples, Spence works the molding paste into the hair to slick it down — alternating between brushing it through with the spooley and flattening it with his fingers. Then, he forms the wave or swoop shape with the help of the spooley.

Once the temples are set, Spence works around the hairline toward the top of the head in the same way. You can see the process in action, below. Easy enough, right?

Instagram content

This content can also be viewed on the site it originates from.

All products featured on Allure are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.


Read more about laying edges:


Now, learn more about styling baby hairs from an Allure editor:

Follow Devon Abelman on Twitter and Instagram.

You can follow Allure on Instagram and Twitter, or subscribe to our newsletter to stay up to date on all things beauty.