The Overdrawn Lip is In—But It’s Not Kylie’s Version
At Jason Wu’s Spring 2016 show this morning, it was all about the lip. Maybelline’s key makeup artist Yadim blended a gorgeous mix of reds to create a velvety statement shade – but the key to the sultry shape? It’s just a bit overdrawn, which Yadim likened to a toned-down version of RuPaul, rather than Kylie Jenner‘s cartoonish pout.
Using a base of Vivid Matte Liquid in Rebel Red (and a yet-to-be named shade coming this spring) Yadim patted the color onto the lips with his fingers to start (a personal preference). The reason for overdrawing mouths for the show? He wanted to keep the integrity of the mouth’s shape, but he wanted “sexy, full red lips” that were uniform for each model in the show.
He noted that the trick to an overdrawn lip—particularly the one he was creating—is not going too far, and extending the liner in certain places. “It’s a way for a woman to overdraw their lip but not feel like they’re wearing drag lipstick.” Yadim said.
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He suggests lining along your natural shape, but exaggerating the peaks and valleys to extend them. “My pet peeve, when I’m doing a show, is that the ends of the lips curl under. Even though it can be cute for women at home to wear lipstick that way, this show is about uniformity. So, I try to fill in those outsides a bit more, and even the cupid’s bow I’ll fill in more so it’s not dipped in. It’s more like a hill, instead of a peak.”
Bottom line: Adapt your tracing to your lip shape, and extend at the edges where you need to, and never go too far. We’ve all seen Kylie’s before and afters.
Watch the video below for a more in-depth tutorial!
